Dress collar pattern. How to sew a flat turn-down collar. Stand collar with a snug fit to the neck

Any turn-down collar cut from upper and lower parts. If the fastener of the product is located in the front, then the collar is represented by one solid part, and its ends are connected at the place of the cut for the fastener.

1. Attach the seal to the wrong sides of the top 2 collar pieces, right sides together. Line up the cut edges and pin all the top pieces to the loose bottom pieces. Baste parts of the collar, but leave the edges of the neckline free, remove the pins.
2. Run the machine along the outer edges of all collar pieces. If the fabric is thin, then set the stitching to small stitches. When strengthening each side of the corner, step back 1.5 cm from the top. If the fabric is a little thicker, then make a few stitches across the tops of the corners to blunt them a little. Remove the basting.
3. Trim seam allowances. At the bends, make “V” shaped cuts into them around the bends (top). On 2 sides of each corner, bevel the seam allowances diagonally and cut off the corners. If the stitching gathers, smooth out the collar seam as you move the presser foot.
4. Using a sleeve ironing board, press the seam, opening the seam allowances with the tip of the iron. For rounded sections of the collar, it is better to use a curved section of the board. The seam allowances should be pressed towards the bottom of the collar, and remember to press the stitching seam again section by section.
   
5. Machine stitch along the collar seam, working from the right side of the bottom collar piece, taking the seam allowance close to the seam line. If, due to the shape of the collar, you cannot sew the entire seam, then sew while you can.
6. Turn the collar pieces right side out. Turn out the corners using a needle with a thread folded in half and a knot tied at the end, first passing the needle inside and then pulling it back out.
7. Try using your finger to roll the seam a little, moving it towards the bottom piece. Press the offset seam edge by running the tip of the iron along the seam, section by section. Then iron the collar from the front side through the fabric to prevent unwanted shine from appearing.

If ironing does not hold the seam offset towards the bottom piece, pin the collar pieces along the edge of the neckline. Baste along the outer edge. Remove the basting from the finished product.

Most easy way sew on a turn-down flat collar - place it between the garment and the inner hem and stitch together. A turn-down flat collar made of one or two parts is sewn in the same way, except that the collar from the one-piece part is turned with its ends toward the middle of the front.

1. Before you start sewing on the collar, sew down the shoulder seams and sew the darts running towards the neck line. Attach the zipper. Mark the middle of the front with a pin.
2. For a collar consisting of 2 parts, baste along the neck line, connecting 2 layers of fabric. At the junction of the front ends of each collar piece, overlap them when basting.
3. The collar must be pinned to the front side of the product. The top of the collar piece should be at the top, the raw edges should be aligned, and the markings should be aligned. Place a point where the collar pieces intersect with a pin and baste the collar. Remove the pins.
4. Cut out the inner facing and pin it to the top part of the collar along the neckline front side inside. Align the edges of the neckline. Leave 1/2 inch ends on each side of the zipper cut. Baste. Machine stitch along the neckline through all layers of fabric.
5. Remove the basting. Trim the seam allowances, leaving the seam allowance on the product side a little wider. Trim the corners of the facing seam allowances diagonally at the cut area at the shoulder seams and at the back. Make “V” shaped cuts along the curves, making them more often on the more curved areas.

The instructions for the Casket website were prepared by Nina Kuznetsova, the author of the master class and other useful sewing workshops.

1. Fold the shelf in half as in the photo, measure the length of the neck, minus 1.5 cm. (the mark to which the collar will reach, that is, the middle of the front). The important thing here is to measure accurately. You need to measure using a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on the edge. Step back 0.5 cm from the edge (this will be the seam allowance along the neckline). In my example (size 44) neck length = 20cm

2. We start by constructing a right angle. I just took an A4 sheet and started building from the left corner, let’s designate it as point O.

From point O we put 1.5 cm up and put point B . In practice, I was convinced that this is the most optimal value.

The greater the distance OB (and it can be in the range of 1.5 - 12 cm), the flatter the collar will lie.

BB1 = 6-8 cm. I took 8 cm.

3. From point B, placing a centimeter to the intersection with the bottom line of the sheet, set aside 20 cm (neck length measured in centimeters) and place point A.

I would like to draw your attention to the following: if you measured it with a flexible ruler, then we also put it on the sheet with a flexible ruler; if a centimeter, then set it aside with the same centimeter. When I built it for the first time, I measured the neck with a centimeter and marked it on paper with an ordinary ruler. As a result, the collar did not coincide with the neckline (it turned out to be smaller). So I redid the paper pattern. If you describe everything correctly, then this should be the radius, but I didn’t have time to look for a compass and so on. I have simplified everything to the minimum.

Connect point B and point A with a straight line and divide it by 3

AA1 = BB1 + 1cm (constant value) = 8 + 1 = 9cm

We also set a perpendicular to point A1

A1A2 = 2 - 5 cm. Mine = 4cm

Connect point B1 and point A2 with a straight line.

We look at the following photos and draw a smooth line BA1

Important: so that the beginning of the smooth line runs parallel. To do this, I attached a triangle with a right angle to point B and drew a parallel line to point 0.5. Next, I will say this in scientific language: we must remember that the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle.

We connect A1A2 with a straight line, thereby completing the construction of the collar.

5. We cut out and apply our pattern to the neckline.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will look at one of the most interesting and extensive topics in design - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). To do this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it using rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our website, select “ basic pattern dresses" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly create your individual pattern, you can even print it on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let’s start our “immersion” into the topic of modeling collars with the simplest and most understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand-up collars are built in the same way, sequentially, they just have different values ​​and line configurations. Collars can have rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end-to-end, more or less adjacent to the neck. The clasp can be located either at the front or at the back.

Let's now look at the construction of the stand-up collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand-up collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and plot this value along a straight line. To ensure that the stand does not move away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the closer the stand will fit to the neck). Now set the desired height of the stand (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our stand-up collar. Don't forget to keep the height of the stand constant! The blue reference notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar you will line it up with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand-up collar like on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the back neck minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the stand according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And we draw a beautiful stand! Also, don’t forget to check the height of the stand.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. This collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts into the stand-up lines.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the amount by how much one part of the shelf will overlap another). Usually this is about 2 cm for a central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to widen the neck of the front and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. Connect the resulting points with lines (red).

We decide on the height of the stand. In the example with a one-piece cut stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder section it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back we set aside the height of the stand along the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition between the stand and the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we adjust the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw out the top cut of the stand, rounding it in front.

Now it's time to turn flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder dart on the back and the chest dart on the front into the armhole line - this way it is much more convenient to draw a flat collar. Now we place the back piece on the shelf, extending 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder section. We decide on the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! Place along the middle seam of the back highest value(5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5 -5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has some item with such a collar. Most often they can be found wearing shirts. To simplify sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar like on a blue blouse. As in stand-up collars, we initially draw a straight line for the length of the neck minus 0.5 cm. From one edge (where the middle back seam will be) to set the required bend of the bottom line of the collar, we set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the stand-up value (2. 5 – 3 cm), and the so-called “back width of the collar” (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up (the values ​​may be different - it depends on the height of the stand and the width of the rise you have chosen). And we try to follow the pattern, draw out the collar!!! The stand can be either cut-off or one-piece (Figure 6).

Shawl cut collar. These collars are very impressive and are not labor intensive compared to jacket ones. The upper collar is cut together with the collar, which greatly simplifies the whole job. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we recommend starting with this model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as in the first model. First, let's set the width of the side to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, based on the model, you need to determine the depth of the cutout and place point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - put point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the collar inflection line (red). Now we measure the length of the back neckline and, using a compass from point a, make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the back neck.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c, tangentially, we plot the amount of the collar’s ​​offset plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the offset width is 6 cm, then the segment cd = 6.8 cm). We put point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, end the line at the neck - we get the bottom cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl's flap perpendicular to the lower edge of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last step is to draw a smooth line for the top cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's figure out what parts we finally got (Figure 8).

Picking. We need to draw an internal hem line to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and end at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. On a separate sheet of paper we transfer the part along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area where the hem transitions into the back facing (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer hem lines (blue solid and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is cut off. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The front is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket collars. Such collars are made of four parts - lower and upper collars and two stand parts. Sometimes the racks are made one-piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below the chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the front. The jacket type collar is very important element. Such a collar must be made with special care, otherwise appearance The entire product will be damaged.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first steps of construction are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a border 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm wide (for a central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the collar inflection line, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left and place point b. We decide on the desired depth of the neckline and draw the bend line of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the back neck - we put point c. Then from point c, tangentially, we plot the width of the collar at the back plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. Connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d we restore the perpendicular to line dа and on it we set aside, first, the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the departure lines of the collar, flap and lapel. To understand these concepts, pay attention to Figure 11.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look in finished product, draw it on the right side on the shelf parts (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. The base point of the opening is 3 cm down from the neck along the inflection line of the collar. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this using tracing paper.

Now all that remains is to draw out the entire stand. We draw the upper cut 0.5 cm below the inflection line, leaving a width of 2 -2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting parts:

• Picking. The shawl collar is drawn similarly. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
• Collar (lower and upper). Copied completely with stand.
• Shelf. We translate everything, just without the collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, varied and quite complex. So, if you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask them at

Drap Drap (French drap “cloth”) - heavy, dense wool fabric complex weave from hardware (cloth) spinning yarn. Like other types of fabrics made from natural raw materials, drape has a glorious history. Its production became possible after the invention of special weaving machines that made it possible to produce material in which the threads are arranged in several rows. To be precise, drape has one and a half or two layers of weave. This made it possible to experiment with weft and warp threads. The simplest option is to put absolutely identical threads on the weft and on the warp, on the outer and on the back layers. The next stage was dictated by everyday logic: replace the yarn of the inner layer with a cheaper or lower quality one. Then some of the woolen threads were replaced with cotton or linen and we got another type of drape. By changing the weave pattern, raw materials, the combination of weft and warp colors, and the finishing of the front side, about a dozen classic varieties of drape were obtained. With the advent of artificial and synthetic fibers, the range of drapes has expanded and acquired new properties. The drape perfectly holds the shape of the product and, due to its thickness and multi-layered nature, remains warm and windproof. Properly dyed drape does not fade, does not fade in the sun and does not lose color in the rain. It practically does not wrinkle, and occasional creases can be straightened with steam. Types and varieties of drape If you use pure wool threads of the best spinning to produce fabric on the outer and inner layers, you will get double-sided drape of the highest quality. It was from this kind of drape that the local tailor made the coat in the famous song. Indeed, a product made from double-sided drape that has been worn out at the seams and bends can be carefully unraveled at the seams and sewn again, on the wrong side. The difference in appearance was insignificant and depended on the method of processing the front side. The drape is considered pure wool if the amount of additives in the yarn does not exceed 15%. By and large, these additives are wool restored by chemical methods. The highest quality drapes fall into this category. But usually lower quality threads are used in the lining layers, with the addition of wool recovered from waste. Therefore, the reverse side of such a drape turns out to be looser. This does not affect the appearance of the drape product, but can significantly reduce its weight and overall density. If the wool content is between 30-85%, the drape is considered half-woolen. As a rule, it is looser and lighter due to the content of nylon, nitron or viscose fibers. At the same time, they try to make the front layer pure wool. To give this drape classic look, the pile has to be pressed and combed. Excessive looseness and softness are the most common drawbacks of mixed drapery. However, it also has its uses. In particular, some types are used in the manufacture of windproof suits and workwear. Processing of the front side of the finished drape is carried out in several stages. The fabric is rolled to give additional density. Then it is combed: the pile is given the desired qualities. Depending on the type of drape, its pile can be fluffy, velor, or pressed. After brushing, the weave structure of the fabric becomes almost invisible. Classic types of drape If two or more colors of thread were used in the production of fabric, a melange drape will be obtained. Its weave pattern is extremely varied, since it depends on both the weave and the combination of warp and weft colors. These types of drapes are quite expensive. They sew from them good quality, timeless outerwear for wealthy men and women. Classic drape is considered to be pure wool fabrics made from wool of a certain quality in compliance with the necessary technologies for weaving and finishing. For example, a bottle drape must contain 80% merino and 20% Tsigai wool (wool from Tsigai sheep), the weave and thickness of the threads are strictly regulated. The pile on the front side should be thick and dense. The velor drape is made from merino wool and does not contain any foreign additives. The pile on the front side lies freely, but should not roll or become frayed. There are other varieties that have long become classics. However, due to the great possibilities in the selection of raw materials, their percentage, the method of production and subsequent processing, new, no less interesting varieties of drapery are constantly appearing. Pictured: Balenciaga coat

I was organizing the folders on my computer and found these interesting collars.

There are a lot of them here, and perhaps even small, but maybe they will be useful to someone.

As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.

What I mean is that there is no need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything comes back in fashion!1. Collar with a detachable stand for a men's shirt. It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.

In general, this is the advice to everyone: if you want to cut out a collar, and you don’t know how to do it, which collar is best, and you don’t want to cut the fabric, then it’s best to cut the collar you like from fake fabric (fabric that you don’t mind cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable in texture), and figure out how you like its shape and how it lies.

In this case, you will not ruin the fabric, and you will be able to evaluate the collar.

And it's not even that important women's shirt or men's - one construction.

By various techniques it is, of course, different, but this construction (EMKO method) is quite successful (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).

The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.

Construction of the collar pattern:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:

5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we put 1.5 cm in both directions, and put points at b1 and b2.

6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 = AA2 = 3 - 4 cm.

Draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left as an angle - according to the model.

The width of the collar at the front and the design of the ends according to the model.

7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

9. Connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. At its middle A6A7 = 1 - 1.5 cm.

10. We draw the departure line with a smooth curve.

Happy building and sewing!

Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.

Such a collar is in demand in blouses, dresses, and even coats, although, probably, most often such a collar can be seen in a robe.

The shawl collar looks very dignified and can be made from almost any fabric.

Pattern it is also not complicated and can be built very quickly.

Constructing a shawl collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

2. Connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. From point A4, on the continuation of line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the back neckline and place point O.

4. From point O we lift up a perpendicular to the line A4-O, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar = 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinked figures, and we get point B3.

5. Connect points B3 and A4.

6. From point B3, perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line to the middle of the collar.

7. Stand height:
B3-B2 = A4-B = 2 - 3 cm.

8. We set aside the width of the departure according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and we get point B4.

9. We draw up the departure line according to the model.

Shawl collar in clothes:

It is presented below and is not anything complicated or scary.

So you don’t need to be so afraid, you can just read it carefully and everything will become clear.

Where can we see an apache collar?

Most often these are blouses and dressing gowns.

But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.

So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of this collar.

He classical and looks appropriate on many models.

This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.

Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the stand A4-B = 3 cm.

2. Connect points L and B, at the intersection with the neck line we place point F.

3. Let's continue L-E line up and put it away from point B to the length of the back neck - put point B1.

4. From point F we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to F-B1, along the arc to the left we lay off a segment B1-B2 = 5 cm.

5. Connect point B to point B2 with a straight line and, perpendicular to it from point B2, draw a line from the middle of the collar up and down.

6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar we lay off a segment:
B2-B3 = A4-B = 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 = the width of the departure according to the model.

7. Position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.

8. We draw the departure line and the edge of the collar to the inflection line L-B according to the model.

9. We draw the line for sewing the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, with A4-A41 = 0.5 - 0.8 cm.

This apache collar pattern may vary slightly, depending on the height of the stand.

You can make a turn-down stand:

Or you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:

And you can even do something in between the two options described above:

Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.

These collars are most widespread in shirt-style blouses and dresses.

What makes it special?

And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has a kind of one-piece stand and looks good both when buttoned and unbuttoned.

The pattern of a stand-up collar is constructed as follows:

1. Construct an angle at point O.

2. From point O upward, we lay off a segment equal to 2 cm and place point B.

3. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (height of the stand), and
put point B1.

4. From point B up, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and place point B2.

5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R = BA = neck length - (minus) 0.05*OB

7. From point A upward we set aside a distance equal to OB2.

8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.

9. The collar stitching line touches the line OA at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the segment OA, from point A to the left.

We trace the collar along the control points.

There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".

Fancy collars are obtained by spreading out the flap of a flat-lying collar of any shape.

These include a collar, which will be discussed below - this is a “mould” collar.

It is usually built on recessed neck.

I will give the construction using the EMKO method.

It is best to make a mold collar from silk fabrics, because... they will flow and lie very beautifully.

Its construction and pattern is very simple.

A2-B1 = 10 cm

A5-O = 9 cm or more

From the drawing we translate the collar pattern, draw cut lines on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the flyaway side and spread it apart.

The amount of expansion depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can range from 10 to 20 cm.

We draw the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar fits nicely into the folds; it should be cut along the bias thread towards the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.

Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in romantic style, but you can also find coats with such collars.