Printed fabric front and back. How to determine the front side of the fabric. What is its difference from the wrong side. The concept of the front and back side of the fabric

When purchasing fabric for sewing any product, before proceeding with cutting, it is very important to accurately determine the wrong side and front side of the fabric. However, this is not always easy enough. The canvas may look exactly the same from all sides, and you can only notice flaws in its appearance and understand that you started sewing from the inside out when the product is ready.

How to determine the "face" of the fabric?

There is a tendency in textile factories to produce double-sided fabrics that are absolutely the same on both sides. They are called two-faced. This is quite convenient, because then the need to determine the inside out before sewing the product disappears. But this is more the exception than the rule. If the material you have chosen is not of this type, then you need to remember seven simple basic rules that will tell you where the wrong side of the fabric is:

  1. You can take a closer look at the fabric and roughly calculate for yourself its front part even at the time of purchase. Carefully consider the roll and how the canvas of your choice is rolled. Most fabrics, for example, silk and wool, are rolled up with the right side inward to protect the “face” from damage, fading, and unnecessary defects. Cotton fabrics, on the other hand, are rolled inside out.
  2. Having bought a fabric with a printed pattern, the question of determining the wrong side will disappear almost immediately. By laying it out so that the inside and the face are visible, you will notice that the print on such a canvas will be much brighter and clearer from the side of the face. If you're still unsure, feel the fabric. On the front side, it will be smooth, with an even pile and a slight sheen. On the wrong side - slightly fleecy and dull.
  3. By the same principle, you can determine some fabrics on which patterns and drawings are applied by piercing the canvas from the inside to the face: on the front side, by passing over the embossed pattern, you can feel slight bumps and bulges.
  4. In mixed fabrics, the wrong side looks less neat and upon closer examination, you can see that it has much more roughness, barely noticeable knots, uneven weaves, thickened threads and other weaving defects. On the front side, the material shines with gloss, brilliance, exceptionally expensive threads and neat weaving are visible.
  5. In satin and satin fabrics, due to the special weave on the front side, they are characteristically shiny, smooth, very soft and pleasant to the touch. On the wrong side, the product is a little rough, with visible hairiness, matte, and the color of the canvas, even without a pattern applied to it, is much duller.
  6. On the edge of the fabric and on the punctures on it, you can also easily determine the front side of the material. During production, it is pierced with pins from the inside out, while characteristic marks remain on the finished canvas. So the face can be identified by the holes, which will be convex on one side, and concave from the inside. On the edge you can see colored threads that are missing from the inside.
  7. It is also important to look at the presence of embroidery on the edge. In such places, the manufacturer puts the name of the company, fabric, or a list of materials that make up the fabric. Such embroidery is visible only from the front side of the canvas.

Determining the wrong side is not difficult, you just need to look at the details. In some cases, if you are dealing with plain fabrics without prints, this does not play such a big role. For the front side, you can take the one that seems to you the highest quality. In the future, it is important not to get confused only in the manufacture of product parts.

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Even at the stage of choosing a fabric, you should decide on its front and wrong sides, because it will depend on appearance products. Confusion can lead to a fatal error when cutting, and the thing will be damaged. The result can be affected not only by lack of knowledge, but also by lighting, so it is undesirable to examine the fabric in the evening or in too bright light. There are a number of criteria that will help to correctly determine the sides of matter and avoid common mistakes.

In this article, we will summarize the experience of professional tailors, which will be useful to a wide range of readers.

Determine the front and back sides of the fabric

Fabrics are single or double sided. In the first, the front and back sides have big differences that cannot be overlooked. The latter have the same or slightly different sides. At the same time, for some materials, only one of them is used, while for others, the wrong side and the face are equivalent.

Simple signs
Printed fabrics are an easy object to determine the sides of the fabric, because the design on the front side is brighter than on the wrong side.

Fabrics with a woven pattern have a more distinct relief on the front side. These materials include jacquard and guipure with cord thread. They can combine jacquard and printed patterns.

The weaving of satin and satin is characterized on the front side by the presence of a scar located at different angles. In addition, the front surface is smoother, shiny and pleasant to the touch, unlike the wrong side.

The twill is easily identified by the rib on both sides, which is at a 45º angle, but has a different direction on each side. On the front surface, the scar goes from left to right and from bottom to top, and from the inside - vice versa. twill lining fabrics are characterized by a silky shiny surface of the front side, and from the inside it is rough and matte, since cotton thread is used in the manufacture.

Finishing the fabric with sequins, metallic thread, embossing and embroidery - all this makes it easy to determine the front side. And in blended fabrics, a more expensive material is used for the front surface. In any case, the front side will look more attractive and richer, so it is impossible to make a mistake.

More difficult cases
When studying pile fabrics, one can make a mistake when determining the sides, since the pile can also be from the inside, like in a bumazee. The latter has a smooth front side, and is decorated with a printed pattern. You can unmistakably determine the wrong side of velor, velvet and corduroy - the fabric looks attractive only on one side.

A single-sided flannel can be confusing for a beginner tailor, as it is difficult to distinguish between the sides - plain weave and pile are present on both sides. Moreover, the inside and the front side are colored the same.

The front side of the drapes is distinguished by a smooth pile and a pattern that has one direction, or a dense pattern, in the absence of a pile. Loose weaving is a hallmark of the wrong side of this fabric. You will have to take a closer look at the double-sided drape: from the inside, the pattern is less clear, or the pile does not look very neat.

The cloth also presents certain difficulties in determining the sides of the fabric. This is due to the fact that the plain weave is tufted. The front side can be identified by the woven colored thread. If you forcefully run your fingers over the surface of the fabric on both sides, then the wrong side will be the side with a less dense pile and a worse surface quality.


If the signs listed above cannot be determined, then they are guided by the properties of the surface. Party with more quality fabric, a minimum number of defects and a smooth surface - front.

The presence of fluff as a criterion can be used in the study of cotton and linen fabrics with a smooth color and plain weave. To assess the brightness of the fabric and the presence of fibers, you need to direct light onto the material along its surface.

Difficult cases
Synthetic fabrics present great difficulty in determining the wrong side and the right side. They do not have defects, villi and weaving knots, which is associated with the use of modern technologies for their production. All properties and color of the material are set at the stage of thread formation.

The quality of the edge and the presence of holes on it is the only sign that can indicate the front or wrong side. edge with best quality serves as a sign of the front side. Holes on the fabric are formed when stretched on the calenders, even at the stage of finishing the material. However, these signs can be misleading. Not always, as is commonly believed, the convex side of the holes is on the front side, and their opposite arrangement is also possible.

Determining the sides of rep weave can be difficult. Reps are made not only from cotton fibers, but also from synthetic silk. It, like crepe and plaid, refers to two-sided materials, which does not allow you to find the differences between the inside and the face.


When considering woolen fabrics, attention should be paid to the brightness of colored threads: the side with a more saturated color is considered to be the front. If the media is rolled, the front side of the media is facing inward.

Instead of a conclusion
If the fabric cannot be determined by all of the above methods, then you should trust the tactile sensations. Women's fingers are the most sensitive instrument, so it is difficult to deceive them.

It happens that the cutter has a desire to deliberately use the wrong side. The discrepancy between the views of the authors of the fabric and the opinion of the tailor is a normal phenomenon. If the wrong side seems more attractive for creating an outfit, then you need to follow your feelings. Moreover, no one will know which side was considered the front.


natural fibers

Cotton (CO).

Cotton fiber is obtained from cotton bolls. The quality depends on the length of the fiber - the longer it is, the cotton is better and more expensive.

Properties. Cotton fiber is very durable, comfortable to wear and heat resistant. It has excellent hygroscopicity, absorbs a lot of moisture (20 - 65% of its own weight) and does not seem wet. In the process of mercerization (treatment with a solution of caustic soda while simultaneously stretching the fibers), cotton fibers acquire a soft sheen, their tensile strength and absorbency are enhanced.

Mercerized cotton compared to the usual - more durable, better painted and slightly shiny. Cotton fabric is almost not warm, so it is perfect for hot weather. The heat-shielding properties can be enhanced as a result of the napping process. Cotton fabric wrinkles a lot and shrinks when washed. Special processing - sizing or refining - makes the cotton crease-resistant and non-shrinking.

Cotton fiber is very resistant both to wear and ironing, it does not stretch, does not cause allergies, and absorbs moisture.

care requirements. Laundry that can be boiled can be washed in washing machine at a temperature of 95 ° C, colored linen - at 40 ° C. white cotton it is better to wash universal washing powder, and colored things - powder for fine fabrics. Terry towels and underwear become very soft when dried in the machine even without the addition of emollients when rinsing.

However, drying cotton fabric machine method can cause severe shrinkage, so it should be resorted to only if there is an enable symbol. Ironing of finished cotton fabrics is carried out in the "wool" mode. In other cases, cotton items can be ironed on the "cotton" setting, best with a little moisture.

Other fibers of plant origin are rarely used for the production of underwear.

Flax fibers are obtained from the stems of this plant, from which yarn for linen is spun.

Properties. Linen has a very smooth surface with a matte sheen, little soiling and almost no crumbling. Linen easily absorbs, retains and quickly releases moisture (up to 23%). Due to its hygroscopicity, linen clothing has a positive effect on the body's natural thermoregulation and is perfect for summer and the tropics. Linen is a very durable material, and when wet it is even stronger than when it is dry. The presence of vegetable glue in its composition makes the canvas harder and stiffer than in cotton fabrics.
Linen is a wrinkling material, but it is plastically wrinkled.

care requirements. Linen fabric tolerates boiling well. But depending on the type of finish, it is better to wash it at a lower temperature: colored fabric - at 60 ° C, dressed - at 40 ° C, in the machine with gentle mode. White or bleached linen is washed with a universal powder, unbleached and colored linen with powders for delicate fabrics. In case of doubt, it is better to return the product to dry cleaning. When dried in the machine, linen can shrink a lot. When ironing, very high heating of the iron is allowed, while the fabric should always be moistened.

Hemp (HA).

Hemp fibers have only recently been used by designers to make fabrics for clothing. First, sticky substances and pectin are isolated from the stem and the fibers are separated. The fibers are then processed again to produce yarn and material. Hemp fibers are tan or brown and difficult to bleach, but can be dyed bright or dark colors. Externally and to the touch, hemp material is very similar to linen, but repels water better than any other fabric. It has low elastic properties, reacts to heat treatment and sunlight in the same way as cotton, is easily wrinkled, and should not be ironed or wrinkled too much, as this adversely affects the condition of the thread. The best hemp fiber for the textile industry comes from Italy.

This is Chinese nettle. Fiber in its characteristics is very similar to flax. Produced from Boehmeria nivea (a bush that grows in Southeast Asia, China, Japan, Southern Europe). The color is white, the thread is very shiny, like silk. Ramie fibers are very long, poorly stretched, but have excellent wear resistance characteristics - two times higher than linen and five times higher than cotton. The material is well dyed, while not losing its magnificent silk sheen. Perfectly absorbs moisture and dries quickly, resistant to bacteria and mold fungi. Ramie is used mixed with wool, with silk fibers or as a substitute for linen. This is an inexpensive, but very practical and beautiful natural fiber. However, it is somewhat coarser than linen, and also has low elasticity.

Sheep wool.

The main "supplier" of wool fibers is a sheep. In addition to it, other animals give fine wool - Kashmir and Angora goats, Angora rabbits, llamas, alpacas and camels.

Used by wool fabric manufacturers, the designations "Reine Wolle" (refined wool) or simply "Wolle" refer to low-quality wool or regenerated wool, which is made from recycled wool. The designation "Schurwolle" (shorn wool) is used only if the wool is obtained from the shearing of healthy live animals and contains no more than 7% of foreign fibers. Reine Schurwolle (cleaned sheared wool) contains no more than 0.3% impurities. Manufacturers of only such wool are entitled to use a symbol indicating that it meets international quality standards (Woolmark).

Properties. Woolen fabrics are little polluted and almost do not wrinkle. It is often enough for woolen clothes to hang a little in a damp room to smooth out the wrinkling and odors of sweat, food and smoke. Surface wool fabric repels water droplets, but absorbs up to 40% moisture in the form of steam. Wool dries slowly. However, it retains heat well and has the ability to fall off, which enhances its thermal insulation properties and makes it windproof.

care requirements. Wool is washed mainly by hand using washing powders for delicate or woolen fabrics. The water temperature during washing should not exceed 30°C. Washing should be done in in large numbers water. Wool does not like long soaking. Woolen products are never rubbed or twisted. They are not squeezed, but carefully rolled up in a terry towel, then they are not hung up, but laid out to dry. Never dry woolen clothes in a car, in the sun or on heaters. Jackets, trousers, skirts, etc. are best dry-cleaned. It is necessary to iron woolen products in the "wool" mode, with steam or through a damp cloth.

Lambswolle / WO

Wool from the very first shearing of a young six-month-old lamb. Woolen hairs have not yet rounded and coarsened, they are very thin, pointed and short. The wool is not tear-resistant, but baby-like and soft, caressing the skin. It is used in the production of thick knitwear.

Merino sheep wool. Sheep of the best Merino breeds are bred in Australia and New Zealand. This is an elite breed of sheep. The smoothness of merino wool yarn and fabric is due to the length, uniformity, and silkiness of the wool hairs. This wool is not prickly, it is thin and soft, often used for underwear and thin summer knitwear. It is ideal for children's clothes, so it does not irritate the skin. Other types of fibers are rarely added to it, and then only in order to make it cheaper. Merino sheep wool is more expensive than ordinary sheep wool.

Alpaca / WP

From the point of view of zoology, alpaca belongs to the order Lama Genus, divided into three branches: llama, guanaco and alpaca. A separate, fourth, branch is vicuña. Together, these animals form the family of South American camels.

Alpacas live on the high plateaus of South America at an altitude of 4 - 5 thousand meters in extreme climatic conditions. There is very strong solar radiation, cold winds blow and sharp temperature drops are observed: from -20 ° C at night to + 15-18 ° C during the day. To survive in such conditions, alpacas must have a special coat: light, thin, soft and at the same time so dense as to not let water through. Especially valuable is the suri alpaca wool, which are considered high-bred animals. Suri's hair falls down the sides like a mane. It is longer, shiny and straight than other alpacas, which is why it is so highly valued. However, suri are unsuitable for breeding in livestock farms, so their share in the total volume of alpaca wool is only 15%.

Alpaca haircuts are experienced every two years. At the same time, they are never sheared, like sheep, "naked", because in the complete absence of hair, animals in such harsh climatic conditions will simply freeze. Therefore, the collection of wool for one haircut is not so high: a maximum of 3.5 kg of wool is sheared from one animal, and even half a kilogram less from suri. This naturally melange wool is sorted exclusively by hand. Thin, soft, it has an elegant sheen. Processed alpaca wool is stored for a long time, without losing its natural qualities and virtues, and is used only in high-quality expensive materials. Coats and outerwear made of alpaca are not exposed to moisture, give cozy warmth and lightness. Due to the fact that the individual fibers of wool are long, alpaca wool does not fall off and practically does not form spools. The silky softness of alpaca wool is not only noble, but also easy to care for. It is enough to brush it lightly with a brush and hold it in the fresh air for a while, and it will again be like new. Alpaca wool products can be dry-cleaned.

Wool of the South American semi-wild or partially domesticated llama. Shearing is done every two years and brings 2 - 3 kg of raw material from the animal. Llama wool is often used in expensive outerwear. Characteristic features: perfectly retains heat, lightness, softness and fluffiness, has a rich color range. The yarn from this wool is dense, so pellets do not form on the product.

Camel hair (WK)

Camels have a dense coat of hair that reliably protects them from the harsh climate and sudden changes in temperature. Camel hair is not sheared. She's going to molt early summer. From one animal per year you can get up to 5 kg of wool. The best tailak wool is combed from ghoul non-working camels, because it is the thinnest. Camel hair removes static electricity and is not electrified. It practically does not bleach and therefore it happens natural color, dark or black. A young camel up to one year old - white color.

Kashmir (WS)

This fiber is obtained from the undercoat of the Kashmir goat, whose homeland is Mongolia, Afghanistan, the Himalayas. Cashmere goats live in the mountains at an altitude of 5000 m and have a wonderful dense coat. They are not sheared, but fluff is selected from the outer and outer hair during the change of the hairline. The output of down, cleaned of awns, is very small - from 100 to 200 grams per year per animal. High-quality cashmere down is one of the most expensive natural materials. Cashmere can be white, grey, brown and black natural colors. In order to dye wool, the original color is first etched out, which leads to a deterioration in quality: the wool becomes stiffer and loses elasticity. Cashmere goat yarn is very light, warm and soft, but too susceptible to friction and pilling, so cashmere is usually mixed with wool fibers in varying proportions. Knitwear containing cashmere must be hand washed with gentle detergents at a temperature not exceeding 30°C. It cannot be pressed or twisted.

Angora (WA)

This is the fur of the angora rabbit. The fluff is combed out twice a year. High quality woolen hair is 6 to 10 cm long. Shorter hairs are very difficult to keep in the thread when spinning and twisting. It is this not very high-quality wool that falls out or “crawls out” of cheap woolen products. Modern, hybrid bred in Germany, angora rabbits have a long pile with amazing luster and a high heat retention coefficient. These animals are shorn five times a year and receive 900 - 1000 grams of high-grade wool from each haircut. Despite their thinness, angora hairs are very strong. Angora wool is most commonly used in combination with other wools and synthetic fibers in knitwear. New weaving technologies have made it possible to use angora wool in modern woven materials. In its pure form, it is practically not used. Firstly, because it is quite expensive, and secondly, because it is completely inelastic. However, angora is just perfect when mixed with sheep or merino wool, acrylic. It gives products warmth, softness and lively hairiness.

Mohair (WM)

This yarn is obtained from the wool of the angora goat. Straight fibers, with a single fiber length of 120 - 300 mm, almost do not roll. Products made of fabrics, which include mohair wool, have a peculiar smoothness and noble sheen and silkiness. Mohair is a great heat regulator. Fabrics containing a high percentage of quality mohair are very durable, but require special care and are difficult to sew. Kid–Mohair is the wool of a young Angora goat, especially gentle and flowing like silk hair. Mohair wool is quite expensive and is most often spun with wool or man-made thread. Mohair is well dyed, easily cleaned of dirt. Wash it very carefully so as not to lose the "fluffiness".

Natural silk fiber is obtained from silkworm cocoons, that is, caterpillars that are found in nature or specially bred by humans. The highest quality silk is considered to be twisted silk from long threads extracted from the center of the cocoon. The length of such a thread can even reach one kilometer.

Properties. Silk clothes are pleasant to wear in any weather. It warms in the cold and cools in the heat. Any silk fabric absorbs moisture in an amount equal to almost half its own weight, and at the same time does not seem wet to the touch. Silk quickly evaporates moisture from the surface of the skin. However, sweat can cause indelible stains that make silk brittle. Depending on the quality, type of weave and finish, silk fabrics are very light and soft or heavy and stiff. Accordingly, they crumple to a greater or lesser extent. The disadvantage is their low light fastness.

care requirements. Silk clothes are recommended to be dry-cleaned. It is mandatory for products made of taffeta, silk brocade, chiffon, organza, silk satin and georgette. Printed and dark silk fabrics are also better to be cleaned, as silk sheds heavily when washed. Wash it by hand at 30°C with a mild detergent. Do not rub the silk fabric with your hands, wring it out or twist it. First, silk should be rinsed well in warm, then in cold water. At the end of the rinse, you can add a little vinegar to the water - this refreshes the color. Silk should not be dried by machine, as well as in the sun or near heating appliances. Wet silk products should be carefully wrapped in a cloth and lightly squeezed out the water. Iron silk with a moderately heated iron in the "silk" mode from the wrong side, in a slightly damp form. When ironing, the fabric must not be sprayed: this may cause stains on it.

Chemical fibers

Man-made cellulose fibers

Viscose fibers (VI).

Viscose is the most natural of all chemical fibers. It is obtained in the process of regeneration of cellulose from coniferous wood (spruce, pine) by reaction with sodium alkali and carbon disulfide. Cellulose dissolves in water and forms a viscous mass. The streams of viscose passed through small holes become viscose fibers during hardening. Thus, viscose is a natural cellulose without impurities. Modern complex chemical processes give a huge range of viscose fibers with different basic qualities. Depending on the purpose, they are made with a shiny or matte surface. Viscose fabric can be given the appearance of silk, cotton, or wool by changing the sheen, thickness of the fibers, or "curling" them. For example, thickening and nodules on the fibers can give it the appearance of flax. Viscose is soft, with a silky sheen, absorbs moisture well. It is used in a mixture with other materials, most often with elastane. It gives viscose fibers elasticity, and they do not wrinkle so much. Viscose products are easy to wash, but they must be handled with care.

Properties. Viscose fibers absorb moisture better than cotton, but they are less durable when wet and not as wearable. In terms of their physical and chemical properties, viscose fibers repeat natural materials (cotton, wool), and compete with silk in terms of luster and smoothness.

care requirements. It is recommended to wash viscose by hand or in a machine in a gentle mode at 30 - 40 ° C with a washing powder for delicate fabrics. Viscose fabrics should not be rubbed, twisted or spun in a spin, they can be hung to dry completely wet or rolled up in a sheet and gently wrung out. They are also not allowed to dry in the machine. Iron viscose with an iron in the “silk” mode when wet or through a damp cloth. Products made of viscose fabric can be dry-cleaned.

Modal (MD).

It is a fiber converted from beech pulp. It is considered a more modern variety of viscose.

modal properties. Modal products are pleasant, silky to the touch, absorb moisture well, "breathe", do not shrink when washed, retain their shape, have a soft sheen, retain the intensity of colors for a long time, and do not cause allergies. In terms of physical and chemical properties, modal can be compared with cotton. Products made from it are more durable than those made from viscose. It is used in high quality and expensive collections. Mixed with cotton, it gives the fabric a subtle sheen and an elegant look. The cotton-modal blend replaces the cotton mercerization process.

care requirements. When washing, it is advisable to turn the product inside out and avoid the use of bleaching agents, as they cause the material to roll.

Lyocell (LYOCELL, TENCEL).

It is a fiber from the cellulose of eucalyptus trees. Viscose of new generation. Gives a cottony feel when worn.

Properties. Lyocell is a silky and soft fiber, when wet it is three times stronger than viscose; does not roll, stains well, has a soft sheen, breathes and absorbs moisture well. In production, lyocell is used in different compositions, for example, lyocell with elastane, lyocell with modal and elastane. The surface of tencel or lyocell fabrics resembles dense wet silk and has an ashy hue.

care requirements. Wash at 40°C, iron inside out.

Cupra (CUP).

Cupra threads are made from cotton cellulose. It dissolves with copper salt and ammonia (from the Latin cuprum copper - copper), then endless threads with a matte sheen are spun from this mass, which are very reminiscent of natural silk. The fiber is very fine and smooth. This is the most noble, high-quality and expensive fiber based on cellulose. The production process is environmentally dirty and is characterized by a significant consumption of expensive copper.

Properties. Cupra fabrics behave like silk: they absorb moisture well, breathe well, are pleasant in the heat and warm in the cold. They are draped with beautiful waves, which makes them indispensable for elegant dresses and blouses.

care requirements. For cupra fabrics, it is recommended to machine wash in gentle mode at a temperature of 30 - 40 ° C or handwash products for delicate fabrics. They can not be rubbed, twisted or rinsed strongly, dried in the machine. Iron the fabric after complete drying from the wrong side in the “silk” mode.

Acetate (AC) and triacetate (TA).

Unlike viscose, acetate and triacetate fibers do not consist of pure cellulose, but of cellulose acetate (cellulose waste).

Properties. Acetate and triacetate silk fabrics have a slightly shiny surface and are very similar in appearance to natural silk. They perfectly retain their shape and almost do not crumple. Acetate silk does not absorb moisture well (only 6% of its own weight), but dries quickly. He doesn't take it well high temperatures(melts at 210°C) and dissolves in acetone. Triacetate silk absorbs even less moisture than acetate, but has greater heat resistance (melting point about 300 ° C) and retains its shape well when pleated.

Triacetate silk tolerates normal machine washing at temperatures up to 70 ° C and ironing in the "silk / wool" mode. Otherwise, triacetate products are treated in the same way as acetate silk. Viscose mixed with acetate is used as a lining. care requirements. For acetate silk, hand or machine wash at 30°C on a delicate cycle is recommended. Chemical cleaning is possible. Under no circumstances should clothing made of acetate silk be dried in a machine; it must be hung up to dry. Acetate silk dries quickly and does not need ironing. If you still want to iron it, do it from the wrong side with a barely warm iron. Triacetate silk tolerates normal machine washing at temperatures up to 70 ° C and ironing in the "silk / wool" mode. Otherwise, triacetate products are treated in the same way as acetate silk products.

This fiber appeared on Russian market recently. Meanwhile, in the East it is distributed no less than cotton. However, its properties are in many ways superior to it.

Bamboo is the fastest growing plant in the world: it can grow up to 22 m in height in a month. Its cultivation does not require the use of fertilizers and pesticides, so bamboo fiber is an environmentally friendly material. The production process of this fiber (using steam and boiling) does not harm the environment. Unlike logging, cutting down bamboo does not damage the topsoil or destroy the plant itself, so it regenerates quickly without accumulating impurities in the trunks.

Bamboo fiber has a natural luster, is softer than cotton and feels like silk to the touch. Bamboo fiber fabric does not cause irritation, has natural antimicrobial and deodorizing properties, contains bamboo kun antimicrobial component, which prevents the growth of bacteria. It has been experimentally established that more than 70% of the bacteria present on bamboo fiber die.

Bamboo fiber underwear is very comfortable due to its unusually porous structure. Moisture from the surface of the skin is instantly absorbed by the tissue and evaporates. This property of bamboo fabric is even more pronounced than that of cotton, which is famous for its high degree of absorbency.

Artificial protein fibers

Soy fibers are environmentally friendly. Knitwear of them, in their appearance, they are similar to silk, in hygroscopicity - with cotton, and in terms of thermal protection - with cashmere.

Studies have shown that soy fibers have unique antibacterial properties, maintain natural body temperature, have a beneficial effect on human skin and improve its energy balance.

Corn kernels (ingeo).

ingeo fibers are produced sustainably in a safe way. When pure, these fibers are oily and silky to the touch, but when mixed with, for example, wool, they take on the characteristics of wool. They are beautifully woven, better than wool and cotton.

Synthetic fibers

Polyester (PL, PES).

This is a polyester fiber, the most diverse of all synthetic fibers.

Properties. Polyester is characterized by the highest wrinkle resistance. The classic blend is 50% polyester with 50% wool or 50% cotton. Polyester has very good light fastness, is a heat-resistant fibre, is superbly cleanable and easy to wash. The fiber is thermoplastic, thanks to which the products retain the pleated and corrugated effects well. In terms of resistance to abrasion and bending, it is second only to kapron fiber. However, polyester has a very low hygroscopicity, poor dyeability, increased stiffness, electrified and increased pilling. All these shortcomings can be eliminated in the production of ultra-thin microfibers (mickofibre).

care requirements. Polyester is machine washable at 40°C. Some polyester fibers tolerate temperatures as high as 60°C. Higher heat can create creases in the fabric that are then very difficult to remove. White fabrics should be washed with a universal powder, colored fabrics with a powder for delicate fabrics. Polyester can only be dried slightly in the machine at a low temperature, but in no case dry. In this case, it is necessary to follow the care instructions indicated on the label so that hard-to-remove creases do not appear. Polyester jersey is dried only in the unfolded form. Polyester does not require ironing, but if it is needed, it is necessary to iron with a moderately heated iron (in the "silk" mode) and through a damp cloth. Polyester items can be dry-cleaned.

Polyamide (PA).

The most famous polyamide fabrics are nylon, capron. The most famous polyamide microfibers are taktel, meryl, cordura, saplex.

Properties. Same as polyester. Polyamide fibers are the most durable of all textile raw materials in terms of tearing and abrasion. Due to its excellent strength in combination with wool and cotton, polyamide gives fabrics strength and stability. In the weaving process, blended fibers contribute to the formation of complex and interesting structures and connections / weaves of threads.

care requirements. Same as polyester. But polyamide fiber is more sensitive to heat, so it must be washed at a temperature not exceeding 40 ° C. Iron polyamide at the lowest heat and without steam.

Polyacrylonitrile fibers (PC).

The most famous fabrics are acrylic, nitron, curtel and orlon.

Properties. The most soft, silky and "warm" synthetic fiber. Polyacrylic is produced almost exclusively in the form of high-volume crimped fabrics and therefore has a strong wool-like feel to the touch. Meanwhile, it surpasses wool in heat-shielding properties. But in terms of abrasion resistance, it is inferior even to cotton. It has low creasing and shrinkage, low hygroscopicity, it is highly electrified and pilling, but pills disappear during wear due to low strength properties. Modified fibers - modacrylic (MA) - have been created to eliminate the shortcomings.

care requirements. These requirements are the same as for polyester, but PC items should be washed at a temperature not exceeding 30°C. Drying by machine is excluded.

Elastane (EL).

These highly elastic fibers are able to stretch seven times and then retract back to their original length. Elastane fibers (best known under the brand name LYCRA) are typically used as fabric additives and are almost never used in their pure form. SPANDEX is the American name for elastane. The addition of elastane to fabrics and knitwear improves consumer properties, but at the same time increases the cost of products.

Properties. Elastane fibers make fabrics elastic and, like synthetic fibers, give them wrinkle resistance. Fabrics with the addition of elastane fibers are very durable, retain their shape and color, almost do not wrinkle and do not require special care.

care requirements. For all fabrics with elastane fibers, there are general rules - when washing, use powders for delicate fabrics and do not dry in the machine. The temperature during washing and ironing is determined chemical composition fabrics.

Microfibres.

Fabrics such as belset, taktel, diolen are obtained from polyester or polyamide fibers.

Properties. These endless threads or fibers are ten times thinner than silkworm threads. They are processed into unusually thin yarn, from which fabrics are woven so dense that they become impervious to wind and rain, but at the same time let moisture (sweat) evaporate from the body, that is, they contribute to good skin air exchange. Since they do not absorb moisture, but pass it outside, where it evaporates, clothes made from such fabrics are always pleasantly dry from the inside. Microfiber fabrics are very soft and light, and they have all the positive qualities that are valued in conventional synthetic materials: they are tear resistant, do not require special handling, etc.

care requirements. Microfiber items can be machine washed at 40°C on a delicate setting. When rinsing, emollients should not be used, otherwise the fabric will lose its water-repellent properties. Products cannot be wrung out and dried. Hang them up to dry. Ironing such fabrics is usually not required, but this can be done with a moderately heated iron on the “silk” setting.

Summarizing the above, we offer retail employees abstracts on the topic "Fabrics and fibers".

Fabrics and fibers (abstracts)

Animal fibers

Advantages disadvantages

  • wearability
  • Softness
  • Ease
  • Retains heat
  • Material of natural origin
  • High elasticity
  • Good ironing
  • Little wrinkled
  • Withstands high temperatures
  • The surface of the woolen fabric repels water droplets and is easily cleaned from dirt.
  • Mohair and cashmere are especially soft and shiny
  • Merino wool is not prickly, smooth, fine and soft, does not irritate the skin
  • Kashmir - very light yarn, warm and soft, not prickly
  • Angora gives products warmth, softness and lively hairiness.
  • Shrinks and deforms
  • May fall off
  • Peeling
  • rubbed
  • Dries slowly
  • Merino wool is more expensive than regular wool
  • Cashmere is a yarn very susceptible to friction and pilling.

Advantages disadvantages

  • handsome
  • Thin breathable material
  • Soft
  • Easy to iron
  • Nosky
  • Warm in the cold and cool in the heat
  • Comfortable to wear in any weather
  • Hypoallergenic
  • Not washable, dry clean only
  • Unstable coloration
  • Does not fold well (cut in folds)
  • Expensive
  • Sensitive to sweat, which can cause indelible stains that make silk brittle
  • Can't dry in the sun

Vegetable fibers

Advantages disadvantages

  • Nosky
  • Soft
  • Comfortable to wear
  • Elastic
  • Good absorption capacity (hygroscopicity)
  • Wash strength
  • natural material
  • Mercerized cotton is more durable, shines beautifully
  • Wrinkles easily
  • sits down
  • Yellow in the light

Advantages disadvantages

  • Very durable
  • Nosky
  • breathes
  • Good absorbency
  • Easy
  • Cool in the heat
  • natural material
  • Wrinkles easily
  • Poorly ironed
  • Shrinks after washing and stretches in the sock

Rami - "Chinese nettle"

Advantages disadvantages

  • Very strong fiber
  • breathes
  • Beautifully glitters
  • Good absorbency
  • light fiber
  • Cool in the heat
  • Dries quickly
  • Withstands high washing and ironing temperatures
  • natural material
  • Wrinkles easily

artificial fibers

Viscose fibers

Advantages disadvantages

  • Glitter
  • streaming
  • breathe
  • Lungs
  • Good staining and color retention
  • According to their physical and chemical properties, they repeat natural materials
  • Wrinkle easily
  • sit down
  • Weak absorbent properties
  • Tends to turn yellow when exposed to artificial light and heat

Advantages disadvantages

  • Stronger than viscose
  • Less viscose wrinkle
  • breathes
  • Does not shrink when washed, retains shape stability
  • Silky looking
  • Soft to the touch
  • Stronger than viscose
  • Slightly more expensive than viscose

Advantages disadvantages

  • Light as cotton
  • Lasting
  • Soft and shiny like silk
  • Properties very similar to cotton
  • Looks like natural fabric
  • Affordable
  • Machine washable

Advantages disadvantages

  • The most noble and high-quality fiber produced on the basis of cellulose
  • Soft, flowing, like silk
  • breathes
  • Excellent shape retention, durable
  • Machine washable
  • Thanks to the special treatment, it can look like suede
  • Expensive fiber

Advantages disadvantages

  • Brilliant
  • Keeps warm
  • Dries quickly
  • Soft to the touch
  • Little wrinkled
  • Weak seams
  • Low thermal and wear resistance
  • Significant electrification

Synthetic fibers

Polyamide

  • Polyamide fibers added to natural fibers significantly increase the strength of products
  • Little wrinkled
Microfiber (microfiber)
  • Reminiscent of suede both visually and to the touch
  • Small, lightweight
  • Breathable, super warm synthetic fabric
  • It protects well from wind and rain, but at the same time passes moisture (sweat) evaporating from the body, that is, it contributes to good air exchange of the skin
  • Tear resistant, low maintenance
  • Obtained from polyamide and polyester resins
Polyester
  • Very durable material
  • Wrinkle free
  • Easy to wash
  • durable
  • Dries quickly
Elastane
  • Blended fabrics with the addition of elastane fibers have increased elasticity, hold their shape well and are practical to wear. It is important to note first of all that when caring for products made of mixed fibers, one should focus on the temperature of washing and ironing, which is tolerated by the most sensitive fibers that make up the fabric.

(title is a link to the source)

Post has been edited Viola- Aug 10 2009, 16:54

Before buying material for sewing, you should know how to determine the front side of the fabric by the edge, pattern, pile, etc. After all, the appearance of the product will depend on its choice. But the most important thing to do is to determine the sides before cutting the product. It is not recommended to do such an important thing in the evening and under very bright artificial lighting, as it distorts reality. In the morning, it may turn out that the choice made was erroneous, and the fault is an optical illusion.

How to determine the right side of the fabric

Arriving at the store or examining the fabrics on the things at home, you can see that they differ quite a lot in appearance. Their difference can be both by the type of surface (openwork, embroidered, with a woven pattern), and by the type of color (variegated, printed, smoothly dyed or bleached). There are also jacquard multi-colored fabrics - tapestry. Such fabrics are considered difficult to manufacture, but it is very easy to determine the right side on them.

Many people know that, depending on their fibrous composition, fabrics undergo different finishes. Natural ones are singeed, bleached, dyed. All finishing is done on one side of the product - the front. When weaving, all irregularities and knots are hidden on the wrong side, therefore, on the front side, all fabrics are smoother and brighter, with a clean surface or, conversely, with a relief, convex pattern. It will also be different to the touch (smooth and pleasant, has a clearer, embossed pattern).

How to distinguish the right side of the fabric from the wrong side

You should know that fabrics are single-sided and double-sided. The wrong side and the front side of one-sided fabrics are quite different. Bilateral ones differ slightly or do not differ at all. Sometimes both sides of the canvas can be used equally.

The front side of different types of fabrics

So, how to determine the front side on plain fabrics and not only:

  • Fabric with a printed pattern: where it is brighter, there is the front side.
  • Fabric with a pattern (woven): On such fabrics, the pattern on the front side will be clearer and more prominent.
  • Fabrics with satin and satin weaves. On the front side, these weaves have a more shiny and smooth surface, the hem goes at different angles, and have a beautiful appearance. From the inside, these fabrics are more like canvases with plain weaves.

  • Fabric with sequin trim, lurex metallic thread, embossed, leather-look coating, embroidery. In fabrics made from mixed raw materials, the front side will always look “expensive”. In all cases, the wrong side will be superior in beauty to the front. The embroidery threads will lie flat, without knots, the stitch will cover the pattern completely.

More complex features for determining the front side

Not all pile fabrics have pile on the front. The pile side of the bumazee is the wrong side, but usually this fabric has a printed pattern and a beautiful smooth surface from the face. But velvet, velveteen, velor is beautiful from the side of the pile, so it is difficult to make a mistake in determining the front side. For example, plain flannel refers to a double-sided fabric - it has the same color on both sides, plain weave and villi.

The drape has a smooth pile on the front side, and it is located in one direction, or there is a dense, lint-free pattern. The fabric of this type on the wrong side may have a looser weave.

This also applies to cloth. It, in most cases, is strongly tufted, which leads to some difficulties in the process of determining the front side. It is necessary to forcefully run your fingers from different sides and in different directions, and the side where the pile is less dense, of less quality, is the wrong side.

What if all the above methods of how to determine the front side of the fabric did not give an answer? One can recognize the side by the quality of the surface of matter. That is, the front side will be the side where the surface of the fabric does not have fluff, nodules, it is smoother. The presence of fluff is inherent only in fabrics made from natural fibers.

To determine the presence of villi or the brightness of the color, the matter should be brought to eye level and looked at the light. If it was not possible to detect pronounced defects, then such a tissue can be attributed to bilateral.

Determination of the web side by edge

You can determine the right side of the fabric by the edge (both in its quality and in the holes on it). The edge will be of better quality on the front side. When the fabric is stretched over the calenders during the finishing process, holes are left. It is generally accepted that they should be convex at the top, and concave from the inside, but in practice it happens the other way around.

Conclusion

Before cutting complex fabrics, it is necessary in several places, preferably in inter-pattern lunges, to designate the front side. This is usually done in small, drawing crosses. This is important not only in order not to confuse parts when sewing, but also for trimming slats, picks, valves, etc.

If all the visual methods have been sorted out, and doubts have not disappeared, do not forget about tactile sensations, because the sensitivity of the fingers will never let you down.

It also happens that the seamstress obviously wants to choose the wrong side (the one that is the wrong side for the people who created the fabric), because it seems to her, on the contrary, more attractive.

And if it was not possible to choose one of the parties with full confidence, then no one except the owner of the finished product will know about it, because everything is known in comparison.

According to www.hunky-dory.ru, in the descriptions of models there are often abbreviations that specify what you knit on the front (faces) or on the wrong side (wrong). Often such clarifications precede a whole series of instructions.

It is easier to distinguish the right side from the wrong side when several rows are connected and the pattern is visible. Of course, this also depends on the type of hinges used. To understand which side you are knitting on, you can also focus on the free end of the thread hanging at the beginning of the product.

If this thread is in the left corner of the product, then you knit on the right side and, conversely, if it is in the right corner, then you knit on the wrong side. This is because the base row following the initial chain of air loops is knitted from right to left.

If you are knitting in a single fabric and using a type of loop that has a different structure on the right side and the wrong side, then you can choose which side to consider "right side" if you wish. At the same time, some complex patterns in which several colors of yarn are used have an easily recognizable wrong side.

Some types of loops have a similar structure on the front and back side. To distinguish between them, you can look at the free end of the thread hanging at the beginning of the product.

If you have the front side of the product in front of you, then this thread will be in the lower left corner. Conversely, other types of loops have a different structure on the front and wrong sides.

The description often specifies which side of the product should be worked on: on the front (face) or wrong side (wrong). As a rule, these abbreviations precede the description of the work on the form of the product.

When knitting complex multi-colored patterns, it is very important to be able to distinguish between the front and back sides, since unused motif threads should be pulled along the wrong side.

According to the magazine "Wonderful hook"

  • Is it possible to crochet a border with an elastic band like it is done with knitting needles? To achieve the same effect as when knitting, you need to work perpendicular to the edge of the product. Most likely you
  • Fantasy yarn is very refined and requires special skill. Fastening ribbon yarn is quite unusual, because if you “weave” the ends of the yarn into loops on the wrong side of the work, then the product will turn out
  • The sample is knitted in order to measure the size of the loops before starting work on the product. This sample may not be square, but is nevertheless large enough to measure the width.
  • It often happens that some tones of multi-colored yarn are combined and form lines, spots, zigzags or large single-color areas on the knitted product. Our advice will help you avoid
  • For those who are just starting to crochet, the edges of the product are often uneven. You probably don't make gross technical errors. You probably don't pay enough attention to