A new dawn of the history of the factory. How it all began

Thematic table of contents (For life)

Well, let's remember the products of the Moscow factory " New Zarya" Let's start with the fact that this is its Soviet name, and before the revolution it was called by the name of its owner, Heinrich Afanasyevich Brocard or Henri Brocard.
The factory was a family business. The owner, a Frenchman who married a Russian and had knowledge and skills in the field of perfumery (he was from a family of perfumers), organized a new production. The factory produced products no worse than the French ones and was one of the first in Russia to use various advertising technologies: soap as a gift when buying cologne, cute postcards in addition to the purchase, bonuses, interestingly decorated display cases, etc. But this is a separate story.
Here we will talk about the perception of “New Dawn” products by women in the 80s. Indeed, these perfumes were not valued, at least in Moscow. The most famous of them were “Red Moscow”. They even received some kind of prize at an international exhibition, but a very long time ago. The perfume was sold in a beautiful bottle with a brush and in a red box with a silhouette of the Kremlin wall. For example, I didn’t like the smell of them, but they were persistent. In general, the durability of a perfume depends on the amount of its own perfume composition per volume of liquid. Since the 80s, there have been fewer and fewer perfume compositions, and not only in our perfumes, but throughout the world.
Is it possible to compare the French perfumes of that time with those of today? They were very persistent. For 20 years, it smelled like some perfumed handkerchief that had been forgotten in the pocket of an old dress stored on the mezzanine. Sometimes they could be bought in large department stores or specialized stores, for example, GUM, Gifts. French perfumes cost about 25 rubles, speculators sold them for 40. Or maybe 35 and 50 - I don’t remember. And “Red Moscow” cost somewhere around 5-7 rubles.
French perfumes were considered very a good gift, they were given to beloved women, doctors, teachers, officials, and “Red Moscow” could be given to a grandmother.

In the 70s, Arabic perfumes were still popular, which were brought from Egypt by our specialists working there at large facilities. And they were sold in stores. Ah, Nefertiti! How I liked them! Unfortunately, these spirits no longer exist. The French bought Arab brands and destroyed them.
Polish perfumes were sold in the Wanda company store. “Pani Valevskaya” was quoted in a long blue bottle.
As a last resort, they bought “Dzinters” perfume - Latvian.
So “New Dawn” was in last place in the ranking of consumer preferences.

In addition to “Red Moscow”, “Novaya Zarya” produced the perfume “Stone Flower” in an original green box, similar to a malachite mountain, and the perfume “Lily of the Valley Silver” (although I just loved “Lily of the Valley”), and, of course, “Chypre " for men. Perfume "Red Poppy". I don't remember anymore. But their range has not changed for decades.
My husband still divides all perfumes into “Chypre”, “Lily of the Valley” and “Red Moscow”. In principle, he is right: scents are divided into chypre, floral and fantasy.

Just before the end of the USSR (or in the early 90s?), the factory created a new perfume - “Gold of the Scythians”. Then there was Kuznetsky Most. They were in demand. Then they made new perfumes almost every three months. Oddly enough, Novaya Zarya is still intact, moreover, they have no competitors in Russia.
They have branded stores, and they stock everything they've ever released on their shelves. So I found out that they not only had “Silver Lily of the Valley”, but also perfumes that imitated the smells of almost all existing colors, for example, geraniums and mimosas. And I love pure floral aromas without impurities - perfumery once began with them back in Ancient Egypt. Have you seen tall cones on the heads of some of the women depicted in the frescoes? These were a kind of perfume, and they consisted of fat, which was retained by the smell of jasmine and roses.

I’m not sure if Novaya Zarya produced creams, but I’ll still remember them. For example, I always bought “Velvet” cream in glass bottles - it was so pink. It was suitable for all occasions, but had one drawback: it was difficult to shake out of the bottle, especially towards the end. It's a shame he disappeared. They said about our creams that although their packaging is unsightly, they are natural and environmentally friendly. And the “Children’s” cream was good. And cucumber lotion. And loose powder in cardboard boxes. True, I myself already used compact powder.
Many people liked domestic lipstick, again on the principle of harmlessness. For some reason it was instantly erased, and I preferred French, English, Italian, which again could be bought without special troubles in large Moscow stores. Not always, but no, no, and I did get caught.

Today there are many perfumes, and they are very different. Now people no longer think that if a perfume is French, it means it is the best. All perfumes have lost their staying power, and there is no point in paying 10 times more - it will be the same. Of course, they buy popular brands, but there is also a demand for narrow original lines, and even for individual scents. In this diversity there is also a place for the spirits of “New Moscow”. In any case, I don't pass by their stores.

Opened in 1864, the factory began its history with the production of inexpensive, but very scarce soap at that time. Production quickly developed and expanded, and in the early 70s, Brocard decided to start producing perfumes and colognes. After some time, his products gain recognition far beyond Russia. In 1889, “Persian Lilac” received the Grand Prix at an exhibition in Paris, and the owners for the first time found themselves in second place.

By the beginning of the twentieth century, the factory began to be called the “Brocard Empire,” and every year it became more and more successful. At almost all competitions and exhibitions, Brokar's products received many awards and medals. Thus, by 1914, the factory had 8 gold medals (received at exhibitions in Paris, Nice, Barcelona, ​​etc.)

In the same year, four Brocard stores opened in Moscow on Nikolskaya, Tverskaya, Arbat streets and on Kuznetsky Most.

After the October Revolution, the factory was nationalized and renamed State Soap Factory No. 5. Director A. Zvezdov is sent to restore order at the plant. It was he who hired the German engineer Bengsen and the French chemist-perfumer August Michel, who helped restore the factory. Three years later, a factory called State Soap and Perfume Factory No. 5 “Novaya Zarya” began operating in a new location.

Since 1922, in addition to essential products, they began to produce perfumes. The perfumes and colognes of “New Dawn” are gradually becoming very popular: “October”, “Paris Commune”, “New Dawn”, “Ninon”, “Cyclamen”. The fragrances of Brocard's period (“Loves, Loves Not,” “Wonderful Lilac,” “Lily of the Valley,” “Northern,” “Chypre,” “Triple”) remained popular. According to the factory legend, “Triple” cologne in a flask-shaped bottle was produced specifically without fragrance for Stalin.

In 1925, the Novaya Zarya factory introduced its wonderful fragrance “Red Moscow”. The author of the perfume composition is perfumer August Michel. Few knew that he called his invention, released back in 1913, dedicated to the House of Romanov - “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet.” For many years this scent became business card not only factories, but also countries.

Every event that took place in the country was celebrated at the factory with a new scent. So, in 1927, for the 10th anniversary of the October Revolution, “Red Poppy” was released, and the factory dedicated the perfume “The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish”, “The Tale of Tsar Saltan”, “The Queen of Spades” and the powder “Eugene Onegin” to Pushkin’s anniversaries. .

In 1958, at an exhibition in Brussels, “New Dawn” presented “The Black Casket”. “Blue Casket”, “Lights of Moscow”, “Stone Flower”, “Pearl”, “Evening”, “New Dawn”, “Northern” and many others. etc. All Soviet perfumery was highly appreciated by the international jury and received the “Grand Prix”. "Red Moscow" was recognized best aroma and received a Gold Medal.

In the name of the next anniversary of the army, “Anniversary”, “Shield and Sword”, “Suliko”, “Triumph”, “Triumph” were released, and in honor of the conquest of space, the cologne “Vostok” was released.

Some of the New Dawn fragrances are dedicated to the theater: “Great Artist”, “Debut”, “Mask”, “Confession”.
From 1979 to 1980, Novaya Zarya perfumers worked on fragrances in honor of the Moscow Olympics in August. The famous fragrances “Olympic Souvenir”, the perfumes “Olympian” and “Bear” were born in a bottle in the shape of the Olympic symbol.

For the 850th anniversary of Moscow, they released the “Mayor” fragrance, which soon became a prize-winner in the competition for the best perfume and cosmetic products of 1997, held by the Russian Perfume and Cosmetics Association.
Today's factory is intense, continuous work, because production is growing every year. Every year, up to 30 new types of perfumes and cosmetics are developed and introduced to the market.

A new stage in the development of the factory and production of products under the new name “Nouvelle Etoile” is a unique example of a fruitful and productive Russian-French partnership.

Class: Mass-Market, Middle-Market, Natural

Country Russia

Price range:100 – 15 00 rub

Official site: http://novzar.ru/shop/

The New Zarya brand (Moscow) produces perfumed products in three classes:

1. Classic, which usually includes fragrances such as “Red Moscow” or “Elena”.
2. Modern, which are produced for a couple of years and then discontinued, like Kuznetsky Most or Minx.
3. Limited edition, produced in several batches, such as “Persian lilac”.

In addition, the factory is actively working on the production of skin care and decorative cosmetics. Its lines are divided into men's and women's. Nail care products are presented in Lux and Standard classes.

How it all began

153 years ago, the hereditary perfumer Heinrich Brocard came up with a brilliant idea - to create his own enterprise where he would produce soap. And in the same year, he brought his idea to life - the first bars of cheap soap rolled off the assembly line, each with a letter of the alphabet on it. Baby soap went with a bang. But Heinrich himself was in no hurry to stop; on the contrary, already in the 70s of the last century he released a series of products related to high perfumery: perfumes and colognes. Within a few years, his company became a leader Russian market those times, it also gradually takes pride of place abroad.

The revolution of 1917 did not bypass the factory - it was transferred to state ownership and renamed, it received a new name - soap factory number 5. After 5 years, the country's leadership transferred the factory to GosZnak, and from November it began to be called "New Dawn" - plant perfumery and soap products.

Nouvelle Etoile is a trademark of “New Dawn”

Prominent figures from the world of perfumery from France took an active part in the development of new generation products. The biggest contributions were made by Michel Almarac and Francis Camai. It was they who created the scents in their laboratories that allowed Novaya Zarya to receive many international awards. Models of packaging and bottles received their shape thanks to light hand designer from France - Thierry de Bashmakoff. And already from the beginning of autumn 2004, such partnership activities brought results - the Nouvelle Etoile trademark was registered.

Despite the sharp turn in the history of the company, its management strictly ensures that all products comply with international standards and traditions introduced by Heinrich Brocard. Thanks to the documentation accumulated since his time, many fragrances of the past have been preserved, which harmoniously transferred into the popular new products of Nouvelle Etoile.

Now in our country the company’s products can be purchased in 38 stores of the Nouvelle Etoile chain, which are located in 31 cities. And if in 2006, which became the impetus for the development of the network, perfume could only be bought here, now all you need to do is go to the factory’s online store website.

Products

There are more than 1000 titles. From perfumed deodorants and car fresheners to Limited edition and Classic perfumes. All products are natural raw materials. For example, the “Russian Beauty” series of skin care cosmetics will help preserve youth thanks to natural and well-chosen ingredients. Super facial serum with a restorative effect contains cornflower extract, which will remove swelling and help restore wrinkle-free beauty to the skin.

At one time, the founder of the factory, now known as Novaya Zarya, complained that domestic perfumes were not taken seriously - everyone was chasing French ones. Over the past century and a half, the situation has changed little. However, in light of today's market situation, Novaya Zarya looks more attractive, if only because it does not raise prices as rapidly as its Western colleagues. The cost, of course, does not remain the same - after all, the factory works closely with French laboratories and purchases a lot from them.

Before “tasting” the New Dawn perfume, it would be interesting to know about its past!

Brocard and Co.

The history of the largest perfume factory Russia began in 1864 with... penny soap.

When the hereditary French perfumer Heinrich Brocard opened his soap factory in Moscow, things did not start right away. At first, the soap was made in a former stable, and besides Brocard himself, there were only two assistants on the staff. The profit was meager. But one day the perfumer (it is believed, at the suggestion of his wife) decided to make souvenir soap: one type is in the shape of animals, another with letters, the third in the shape of vegetables. Fathers of families happily brought such gifts from the fair to their children and wives.

By the early 1970s, Brocard had earned enough to move on to producing perfumes and colognes. In 1873 he became court supplier. The whole of Moscow smelled of “Flower” cologne; a million bottles were produced a year. And for “Persian Lilac” Brocard received a Gold Medal in Paris, leaving his French colleagues behind.

After the death of the founder, the empire passed to his wife Charlotte, then to his son. At this time, the talented perfumer August Michel was working at the factory, who came up with the fragrance “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet”. These perfumes have been around for over a century, just under a different name. Can you guess which one? Yes, this is exactly “Red Moscow”, the most famous fragrance of “New Dawn”!

New Zarya

After the revolution, the Brocard and Co. factory was nationalized, christening it “State Soap Factory No. 5.” Three years later, the unappetizing name was replaced with “New Dawn”.

The basis of the assortment was soap products, but in 1922 the production of perfumes was resumed. Paying tribute to the “red” theme (perfume “October”, “Paris Commune”), perfumers listened to the voices of nature (“Lily of the valley”, “Wonderful lilac”, “Cyclamen”) and the whispers of feelings (“Loves, does not love”, “ Ninon").

The USSR had its own chypre fragrance - Chypre cologne. Another legend is “Triple”. The production of “The Empress’s Favorite Bouquet” began in 1925 (of course, now “Red Moscow” was written on the bottle).

“Red Poppy” celebrated the first anniversary of the October Revolution, and three new releases were released for Pushkin’s days: “The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish,” “The Tale of Tsar Saltan” and “The Queen of Spades.”

The factory responded to any significant event in the history of the country with fresh releases. “Anniversary” perfumes, “Shield and Sword”, “Triumph” marked the anniversary of the army, and a new cologne “Vostok” was timed to coincide with the first space flight. Both theatrical (“Great Artist”, “Debut”, “Mask”) and Olympic themes (“Olympian” and “Bear”) can be traced. “Lights of Moscow” sank into the soul of some, “Evening” for others, “Waltz of the Flowers” ​​for others...

Nouvelle Etoile

A new stage was cooperation with French laboratories. The company is proud that perfumers Michel Almarac and Francis Camai participated in the creation of some of the fragrances, and the bottles were designed by Thierry de Bashmakoff. Russian-French cooperation became official in 2004, when the Nouvelle Etoile brand appeared.

Some of the most popular fragrances today include:

• “Scythian Gold” - honey, with herbal, apple, ylang undertones;
• Kuznetsky Most (“Kuznetsky Bridge”) – autumn-spring, creamy-powdery, with velvet lining. Often compared to Lancome Climate;

• The Vert (" Green tea") is a cool tea and lemon “drink” for hot days, light, unsweetened. New Dawn is often accused of imitating Western bestsellers, and this time one cannot help but recall the Elizabeth Arden fragrance of the same name, which is similar even in packaging. But which one is better - a student or a teacher? - you decide;
• La Belle de Russie (“Russian Beauty”): a sweetish peach-apricot mix for cold days;
• Follow Me Day “Follow Me Day” - a feminine cocktail with roses and irises;
• the citrusy Eau Jeune seems to many to be very close to what was sold in the 80s;
• floral green unisex White Tea with bergamot and freesia;
• chypre Tete-A-Tete, which comes from Soviet times;
• Renommee (rose, apple, greens).

And most importantly, after a long break, “Red Moscow” has been coming out for several years now. Will New Dawn's future be as loud as its past? Time will show.