What happened to the factory new dawn. "New Dawn" - Russian perfumery with a French past. Nouvelle Etoile - New Dawn trademark

Novaya Zarya is a Moscow perfumery and cosmetics factory. Domestic perfumery has a long history. And of course, the beginning of the Russian perfume industry was laid by a Frenchman. His name is Heinrich Brocard. This famous French perfumer arrived in Russia in 1861, and in 1864 he founded a factory in Moscow, known to this day as New Dawn.

At the end of the 19th century, this factory was the largest in Europe! Since 1925, the famous perfume "Red Moscow" has been produced.

Brocard came from a perfume dynasty. His father, Atanas, owned a perfume factory and had his own shop on the Champs Elysees in Paris.
The son of Atanas Heinrich was much more fortunate. In the history of this success, as always, "cherchet la femme", or "look for a woman." Heinrich Brocard owes much of his work to his wife, Charlotte Reve, a Belgian by birth, born in Russia and educated in Moscow, she was very familiar with our culture.

CHARLOT AND HEINRICH BROCAR.
Valentin Pikul writes in the story “A Fragrant Symphony of Life”: “The Brocards opened a second store on Birzhevaya Square, and then the police had to be called, because a huge crowd threatened to destroy the doors and break the windows in order to break through to the counter. The fact is that Charlotte Andreevna came up with an unprecedented surprise. For just one ruble, "sets" were sold: ten perfumes with the same aromas (perfume, cologne, powder, creams, sachets, lipsticks, etc.) were packed in an elegant box at once. They managed to sell only two thousand "sets", after which the police, all in a park, ordered the store to be closed, unable to cope with the oncoming crowd.

However, at first, at the factory opened by Brocard in Russia, they did not produce perfumes at all, but ... perfumed soap. At the time, soap was in short supply. Brokar's soap had unusual shape, for example, spherical or with printed Russian letters - for children. Then a fountain of cologne was installed for the public, in which any person could dip a handkerchief for free - this was the beginning of the tremendous success of the Brocard Empire. The perfumes of the "New Dawn" were of excellent quality and were sold to many European countries. Unfortunately, the 1917 revolution ended the Brocard Empire, but his factory, the famous "New Dawn", continued and continues to exist.

Thanks to the factory, a street appeared in Moscow New Dawn in connection with the planned construction of residential buildings on it for workers and employees of the factory. Until 1929, this name was given to the modern 4th Roshinsky passage. On October 10, 1929, the name was assigned to the street adjacent to the passage, which still bears this name today.

The most famous brainchild of Brocard was the perfume "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet", published in 1913. Today it is known as "Red Moscow". These perfumes were created especially for the Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna, the last Russian Empress. However, although "Red Moscow" is presented as the same "Bouquet", there is an opinion that this is not entirely true. The fact is that, apart from Brocard, no one knew the exact composition of the Bouquet, and after his death, the exact analogue was never found - Heinrich took it with him to the grave.

Now Novaya Zarya is successfully competing with foreign perfume companies. Despite the fact that the flavors of "New Dawn" retain excellent quality.

However, in every barrel of honey there is always a fly in the ointment. Many of today's New Dawn perfumes repeat either the fragrance or the bottle of well-known foreign perfumes. Obviously, such coincidences are not accidental. For example, "Green Tea" from New Dawn is very similar to "Green Tea" from Elizabeth Arden. But "White Tea" sends us straight to "Au The Blanc" from Bvlgari. "Delicate Musk" (by the way, a great fragrance from the wonderful series "Magic of Patchouli", "Golden Amber" and "Delicate Musk") is reminiscent of "Musk Kublai Khan" by Serge Luten. "Kuznetsky Most" is a clone of the famous "Climat". In the "Red Poppy" one can easily recognize "Flower by Kenzo". And in “White Iris” I personally hear “Anais Anais” from Cacharel. And so on and so forth...

BOUGHT THESE PERFUME. FRAGRANCE EXACTLY LIKE CLIMAT.

I think that every person familiar with perfumery can have their own associations. However, all these comparisons do not detract from the quality of New Dawn perfumery - the aromas are excellent! Perhaps many people will be able to afford to buy these domestic counterparts of foreign perfumes if the prices for imported perfumes seem too high.

Surely, many have already paid attention to the billboards on the streets of Moscow, which advertise the perfume store "Nouvelle Etoile". This is nothing but our old friend New Dawn, only in French, in a Russian-French project.

Not only Russian, but also French professionals continue to work on the fragrances of Novaya Dawn. This means that the exchange of perfume experience between our two countries continues. Let's hope that this cooperation will not greatly affect the prices of long-loved perfumes.

FOR MEN

MORE ABOUT SPIRIT "RED MOSCOW".

"Red Moscow" - famous in Soviet time women's perfumes produced by the Moscow factory "New Dawn" (before the revolution - "Brockard and Co"). They contain more than 60 components, the official description of the perfume says: “A thin, warm, noble aroma with a hint of orange blossom.”

Rudolf Arkadyevich Fridman in his book "Perfume", edition of 1955, writes: "Red Moscow - is associated with graceful warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodic, plastic melodiousness", "perfume" Red Moscow ", mainly representing a violet complex, in terms of smell, it is rather sentimental in itself, but which, thanks to a change in timbre and the introduction of a number of harmonizing substances, received a special beauty and richness of smell”, “Perfume "Red Moscow", consisting of a mixture of bases of iris, violet, carnation for the perfection (rounding) of all these primary materials and to enhance their delicate scent, they need a significant proportion of jasmine essence. Renata Litvinova characterizes them as "sugary, concentrated ... giving rise to a feeling of normal healthy nostalgia." In 1958, they were awarded a prize at the World Exhibition in Brussels.

According to a less popular version, the Red Moscow perfume was created in the mid-1920s. with the participation of Polina Zhemchuzhina (wife of the future People's Commissar V. M. Molotov) and are not directly related to pre-revolutionary fragrances, since at that time the corresponding ingredients were not yet used in perfumery.

There is also an urban legend about the special similarity of the Red Moscow and Chanel No. 5 fragrances. At the same time, either Soviet perfumes are interpreted as an attempt by the Soviet perfume industry to copy the famous French fragrance, or it is alleged that the French fragrance was synthesized by Ernest Bo (who worked in Moscow before the revolution) based on the "Empress's Bouquet".

The salon-shop is located on the first floor, the Museum - on the second. Here are exhibits that have accumulated over a century and a half. The State Historical Museum has also added to the exposition. The exposition of the museum consists of two small halls - the first is dedicated to the art of perfumery and its features from the 11th to the 20th centuries, but there are also more ancient rarities; the second reveals the history of the Novaya Zarya factory from the moment it was founded to the present day.

The main exhibit is the glove box! It was thanks to simple peddlers of gloves that wealthy citizens had free access to fragrances: leather things did not always smell pleasant and so that noble noses would not suffer, they were sold gloves with all kinds of de colonies - eau de cologne (fr) - in other words, cologne (colonial or cologne water).

In the windows there are huge - sometimes almost human-sized - bottles in which the notorious cologne was poured precisely for hygienic purposes: they didn’t wash much, and even Napoleon himself used 30 gallons per month for the sake of cleanliness. Moreover, the bubonic plague added its mite to the matter of hygiene, and I had to wear Leather Products in in large numbers: so the fragrant rivers of cologne flowed.

The Egyptian balsamary - the oldest exhibit of the exposition - is over 2000 years old. Medieval fragrances and incense burners, luxury fashion items of the 16th - 18th centuries (among them Madame Pompadour's garters, with recommendations on how to apply powder embroidered on them).
At the end of the exposition of hall No. 1 there is a distillation apparatus for oils by distillation; steam distillation (a jet of steam is passed through the raw material heated in the distillation cube).

There are also unusual things. Spectator's tubes of the 18th century. Ladies were supposed to weep when watching plays where passions were seething. But give the right amount of tears in right time not everyone could. Therefore, the spectators brought tubes to their eyes - a crystal bottle with a binocular eye in the middle and smelling salt inside. She inhaled a sharp aroma and - tears flow with the required frequency.

Aroma stand - this is where you can smell everything we know about: lily of the valley, ginger, musk, incense, patchouli... Great amount aromatic natural odors that are not sold in pharmacies or in stores. In our age, when a perfume composition consists of 70% non-natural ingredients, plunging into the world of real smells is worth a lot.

In hall No. 2 - the history of the factory "Partnership Brocard and Co." In 1864, the fragrance factory was founded by a hereditary connoisseur of fragrances from France, Heinrich Brocard, and after the 1917 revolution. The factory was nationalized and renamed Zamoskvoretsky Perfume and Soap Plant No. 5. The faceless name did not take root, and in 1922, at the suggestion of the chief perfumer August Michel (who had worked at the enterprise since the time of Brocard), it became New Dawn.
Brocard was the first to make promotional kits, which included small samples of his products (the very "probes" that perfumers all over the world would use in the 20th century). Judging by the wondrous beauty of the bottles, Brocard worked with the best glaziers in Russia and Europe.

There is no guide (all guides were fired recently) sad! - without them it's not so interesting, now the sales consultant is telling the story (from the 1st floor from the store). My friend and I were the only ones in the museum.

Excursion to the Perfume Museum is completely free! They also strictly warned that photos are prohibited !! I am posting a photo of the sign at the entrance.

MUSEUM: Tue-Sat from 10 to 19, Sun from 10 to 18, Mon - day off.

SHOP: Mon-Sat from 10 to 20, Sun from 10 to 19

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At one time, the founder of the factory, now known as "New Dawn", complained that domestic perfumes are not taken seriously - everyone is chasing the French ones. Over the past century and a half, the situation has changed little. However, in the light of the current market situation, Novaya Zarya looks more attractive, if only because it does not raise prices as rapidly as its Western counterparts. The former cost, of course, does not remain - after all, the factory closely cooperates with French laboratories and buys a lot from them.

Before "tasting" the spirits of the "New Dawn", it would be interesting to know about her past!

Brokar & Co.

The history of the largest perfumery factory in Russia began in 1864 with ... penny soap.

When the hereditary French perfumer Heinrich Brocard opened his soap factory in Moscow, things did not go right away. At first, soap was brewed in a former stable, and in addition to Brocard himself, there were only two assistants on the staff. The profit was meagre. But one day the perfumer (as it is believed, at the suggestion of his wife) decided to make souvenir soap: one species in the form of small animals, another with letters, the third in the form of vegetables. The fathers of families were happy to bring such gifts from the fair to their children and wives.

By the early 1970s, Brokar had earned enough to move on to the production of perfumes and colognes. In 1873 he became court purveyor. The whole of Moscow smelled of cologne "Flower", a million bottles were produced a year. And for the "Persian Lilac" Brocard received the Gold Medal in Paris, leaving behind his French colleagues.

After the death of the founder, the empire passed to his wife Charlotte, then to his son. At that time, the talented perfumer August Michel worked at the factory, who came up with the fragrance "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet". These spirits have existed for more than a century, only under a different name. Guess what? Yes, this is exactly Krasnaya Moskva, the most famous fragrance of Novaya Zarya!

New Dawn

After the revolution, the factory "Brocard and Co" was nationalized, dubbed it "State soap factory No. 5". Three years later, the unappetizing name was changed to New Dawn.

The basis of the assortment was soap products, but since 1922 the production of perfumes was again established. Paying tribute to the "red" theme (perfume "October", "Paris Commune"), perfumers listened to the voices of nature ("Lily of the Valley", "Wonderful Lilac", "Cyclamen"), and the whisper of feelings ("Loves, does not love", " Ninon").

In the USSR, their own chypre fragrance appeared - cologne "Chypre". Another legend is "Triple". The production of "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet" was launched in 1925 (of course, now "Red Moscow" was written on the bottle).

"Red Poppy" celebrated the first anniversary of the October Revolution, and three novelties came out at once by Pushkin's days: "The Tale of the Fisherman and the Fish", "The Tale of Tsar Saltan" and "The Queen of Spades".

The factory responded to any significant event in the history of the country with fresh releases. "Jubilee" perfumes, "Shield and Sword", "Triumph" marked the anniversary of the army, and the new cologne "Vostok" was timed to coincide with the first space flight. Theatrical (Great Artist, Debut, Mask) and Olympic themes (Olympian and Bear) are also traced. Someone sunk into the soul of "Lights of Moscow", someone - "Evening", someone "Waltz of the Flowers" ...

Nouvelle Etoile

Cooperation with French laboratories has become a new stage. The company is proud that the perfumers Michel Almarac and Francis Camai participated in the creation of some of the fragrances, and the bottles were designed by Thierry de Bachmakoff. Russian-French cooperation has been official since 2004, when the Nouvelle Etoile brand appeared.

Among the most popular fragrances today are:

"Gold of the Scythians" - honey, with herbal, apple, ylang undertones;
Kuznetsky Most ("Kuznetsky Most") - autumn-spring, creamy-powdery, with velvet padding. Often compared to Lancome Climat;

The Vert ("Green Tea") - a cool tea-lemon "drink" for hot days, - light, unsweetened. Novaya Zarya is often accused of imitating Western bestsellers, and this time we can't help but recall the Elizabeth Arden fragrance of the same name, which is similar even in packaging. But which one is better, the student or the teacher? - you decide;
La Belle de Russie ("Russian beauty"): sweet peach-apricot mix for cold days;
Follow Me Day "Follow Me Day" - a feminine cocktail with roses and irises;
citrus Eau Jeune seems to many to be very close to what was sold in the 80s;
flower green unisex White Tea ("White tea") with bergamot and freesia;
chypre Tete-A-Tete, which came from Soviet times;
Renommee (rose, apple, greenery).

And most importantly, after a long break, Krasnaya Moskva has been coming out for several years now. Will New Dawn's future be as loud as its past? Time will show.

And outside the window, outside the window is the beauty of the new moon.
Weeping willows whisper with the Bug.
Year forty-one, early June -
Still alive, still alive
Everything, everything...

Everything is ahead, everything is yet, everything is the day before.
Twenty sunrises left happy.
Year forty-one, the beginning of June -
Still alive, still alive
Everything, everything...

Were warm summer days, the air in Moscow was filled with linden blossoms. In the tenth grade, exams began, someone was going to rest in the Crimea, L. Utyosov and L. Orlova watched from the posters ... Nothing, it seems, foreshadowed the huge tragedy that would begin soon, that at many industrial enterprises, including in the perfume industry, there will be silence. It would seem, why spirits in this tragic time, when the number of those killed and destitute is incalculable. However, the spirits of the Soviet era in this period of grief and loss had an unexpected patriotic pathos on a par with the music and poetry of those years.

From Moscow and Leningrad, chemical plants were evacuated to the Urals, including Esters. Already on the ice of Lake Ladoga, under shelling, they took out all the equipment of the Lenaromat plant. The Moscow factories "Novaya Zarya" and "Svoboda" switched to martial law - the men went to the front, the women built anti-tank barriers. Before perfumery?... At the Svoboda factory day and night they produced soap and tooth powder for the army. The population was given everything on cards and in very limited quantities. Then a piece of soap became a valuable thing.

Factory "Novaya Zarya" from the remaining stocks of ethyl alcohol produced cologne for senior officers. For the rest, it was not available either on cards or for money. Ethyl alcohol during the war was a strategically important product. Before the war, it was produced from food raw materials, and already in the first years of the war, the vast territories of our country, where up to 38% of grain and 87% of sugar beets were grown, were occupied by the Nazis. But alcohol was very necessary not only for perfumery, but also for medicine and pharmaceuticals. Therefore, various agricultural products of Siberia, Altai, and the Far East were used for the production of alcohol.

The patriotic upsurge increased every day, and not only on the battlefields or at factory machines in the rear, but also in the cultural space of Soviet wartime life, which gave rise to outstanding works of music and poetry. And the perfumes "Red Moscow", "Wait for me" wafted their fragrance over the devastated country as a symbol of the service of perfumery to human feelings:

In the dirt, in the darkness, in hunger, in sadness,
Where death, like a shadow, dragged on the heels,
We were so happy
They breathed such stormy freedom,
What grandchildren would envy us ...

For many decades it was considered that real perfumes were made only in France. Of course, the art of French perfumers is unparalleled, and yet high-quality perfumes are produced in many countries, including Russia. Many women, for example, unfairly ignore the New Dawn perfume, and yet some samples of perfumery from this factory are in no way inferior to French ones.

History of the "New Dawn"

The New Dawn factory was founded in 1864 by the Frenchman Heinrich Brocard. Of course, the name then was different: the company received a new “revolutionary” name in 1922. In the interval between the October Revolution and the renaming into Novaya Zarya, the factory bore the unattractive name Perfume and Soap Factory No. 5.

Like other perfumes of that time, "Persian Lilac" was distinguished by its simple composition, which, however, did not prevent the fragrance from becoming popular not only in the Russian Empire, but also abroad.

After the revolution, the fame of the factory was brought by the perfume "Red Moscow". This fragrance, extremely popular in the middle of the 20th century, is still produced today. There are no indifferent to this perfume: someone considers it hopelessly outdated and tasteless, and someone is sure that this classic fragrance is truly luxurious and will never go out of fashion.

At the beginning of the 21st century, Novaya Zarya began to produce products in collaboration with French perfumers under the brand name Nouvelle Etoile. New luxury fragrances appeared at a higher price than before, increased attention was paid to perfume packaging.

The New Dawn Phenomenon

Soviet women did not have much choice: French and even Polish perfumes were not so easy to get, and Novaya Zarya products were affordable. Relatively inexpensive and very persistent fragrances were popular: probably every inhabitant of the Soviet Union had a bottle of "Red Moscow" or "Scythian Gold".

The "Iron Curtain" opened, and women of fashion got the opportunity to purchase any foreign fragrances. In most cases, however, crude fakes were offered to inexperienced customers, but soon the real works of French perfumers became quite affordable. However, despite all this abundance, many in the twenty-first century continue to use the products of the Novaya Zarya factory with pleasure. What is the secret of the popularity of these perfumes?

Conventionally, Novaya Dawn products can be divided into three groups:

Classic fragrances ("Red Moscow", "Scythian Gold", "Elena" and other famous perfumes);
Fashionable fragrances (a series of fragrances that are produced for several years and then discontinued. This group includes the perfumes "Sweetheart", "Naughty", "Kuznetsky Most" and others);
Limited editions (only one or two batches of such perfumes are produced, for example, "Persian Lilac" - a copy of one of the very first fragrances by Heinrich Brocard).

Why do people like "New Dawn"?

New Dawn products have many advantages. First of all, the advantages include, of course, the price: the original products of the oldest perfume factory are often cheaper than primitive fakes made in artisanal conditions.

"Novaya Zarya" offers a huge range of perfumes, and the aromas are diverse, which means that every woman can find her "own" perfume. It is important that the smells of New Dawn perfumes are for the most part very persistent: a few drops of perfume are enough to smell sweet for hours.

Disadvantages of New Dawn perfumery

The perfumery of the famous factory also has disadvantages - perhaps they are what prevent the company from gaining international popularity. So, due to the lack of advertising, most of the new products remain unknown to ordinary buyers. The advertising that exists gives a very vague idea about the products, which also does not contribute to the popularity of fragrances. The same can be said about the names of perfumes, which are often not very successful. For example, names like "Sweetheart in the afternoon" or "Scandal" cause bewilderment.

Very often, the Novaya Zarya factory is accused of cloning well-known "promoted" fragrances.

For example, the fragrance "Kuznetsky Most" in a white package is almost identical to "Climat" from Lancome, while "Green Tea" and "Pepper Tea" suspiciously resemble perfumes from Elizabeth Arden. There are many such examples, according to consumers. At the same time, in most cases, the flavors of "New Dawn" are inferior to the originals. Despite the fact that the Novaya Zarya factory gives its customers the opportunity to purchase analogues of famous and fashionable perfumes at a ridiculous price, such copying of fragrances does not suit the oldest perfume factory with a rich history.

Another drawback of the factory's products is, oddly enough, its inaccessibility. In many cities of Russia, it is easier to buy original French perfume than perfume from the Novaya Zarya factory. And the fragrances of limited editions are not repeated, which causes a lot of criticism from those who liked this perfumery.

Packaging often causes dissatisfaction. It is clear that low prices are explained by the minimal cost of producing bottles and boxes for them, and yet defiantly cheap plastic skewed caps and bottles, devoid of any individuality, are not liked by everyone. However, there are exceptions, for example, charming vintage bottles from the "Precious Stones" series.

Maria Bykova