Founder of the perfume company New Dawn. Pages of the history of Russian perfumery: a new dawn. History of the "New Dawn"
The salon-shop is located on the first floor, the Museum - on the second. Here are exhibits that have accumulated over a century and a half. The State Historical Museum has also added to the exposition. The exposition of the museum consists of two small halls - the first is dedicated to the art of perfumery and its features from the 11th to the 20th centuries, but there are also more ancient rarities; the second reveals the history of the factory" New Dawn from its inception to the present day.
The main exhibit is the glove box! It was thanks to simple peddlers of gloves that wealthy citizens had free access to fragrances: leather things did not always smell pleasant and so that noble noses would not suffer, they were sold gloves with all kinds of de colonies - eau de cologne (fr) - in other words, cologne (colonial or cologne water).
In the windows there are huge - sometimes almost human-sized - bottles in which the notorious cologne was poured precisely for hygienic purposes: they didn’t wash much, and even Napoleon himself used 30 gallons per month for the sake of cleanliness. Moreover, the bubonic plague added its mite to the matter of hygiene, and I had to wear Leather Products in in large numbers: so the fragrant rivers of cologne flowed.
The Egyptian balsamary - the oldest exhibit of the exposition - is over 2000 years old. Medieval fragrances and incense burners, luxury fashion items of the 16th - 18th centuries (among them Madame Pompadour's garters, with recommendations on how to apply powder embroidered on them).
At the end of the exposition of hall No. 1 there is a distillation apparatus for oils by distillation; steam distillation (a jet of steam is passed through the raw material heated in the distillation cube).
There are also unusual things. Spectator's tubes of the 18th century. Ladies were supposed to weep when watching plays where passions were seething. But give the right amount of tears in right time not everyone could. Therefore, the spectators brought tubes to their eyes - a crystal bottle with a binocular eye in the middle and smelling salt inside. She inhaled a sharp aroma and - tears flow with the required frequency.
Aroma stand - this is where you can smell everything we know about: lily of the valley, ginger, musk, incense, patchouli... Great amount aromatic natural odors that are not sold in pharmacies or in stores. In our age, when a perfume composition consists of 70% non-natural ingredients, plunging into the world of real smells is worth a lot.
In hall No. 2 - the history of the factory "Partnership Brocard and Co." In 1864, the fragrance factory was founded by a hereditary connoisseur of fragrances from France, Heinrich Brocard, and after the 1917 revolution. The factory was nationalized and renamed Zamoskvoretsky Perfume and Soap Plant No. 5. The faceless name did not take root, and in 1922, at the suggestion of the chief perfumer August Michel (who had worked at the enterprise since the time of Brocard), it became New Dawn.
Brocard was the first to make promotional kits, which included small samples of his products (the very "probes" that perfumers around the world would use in the 20th century). Judging by the wondrous beauty of the bottles, Brocard worked with the best glaziers in Russia and Europe.
There is no guide (all guides were fired recently) sad! - without them it's not so interesting, now the sales consultant is telling the story (from the 1st floor from the store). My friend and I were the only ones in the museum.
Excursion to the Perfume Museum is completely free! They also strictly warned that photos are prohibited !! I am posting a photo of the sign at the entrance.
MUSEUM: Tue-Sat from 10 to 19, Sun from 10 to 18, Mon - day off.
SHOP: Mon-Sat from 10 to 20, Sun from 10 to 19
👁 Do we always book a hotel on Booking? Not only Booking exists in the world (🙈 we pay for a horse percentage from hotels!) I have been practicing Rumguru for a long time, it’s really more profitable 💰💰 Booking.
Novaya Zarya is a Moscow perfumery and cosmetics factory. Domestic perfumery has a long history. And of course, the beginning of the Russian perfume industry was laid by a Frenchman. His name is Heinrich Brocard. This famous French perfumer arrived in Russia in 1861, and in 1864 he founded a factory in Moscow, known to this day as New Dawn. 
At the end of the 19th century, this factory was the largest in Europe! Since 1925, the famous perfume "Red Moscow" has been produced. 
Brocard came from a perfume dynasty. His father, Atanas, owned a perfume factory and had his own shop on the Champs Elysees in Paris.
The son of Atanas Heinrich was much more fortunate. In the history of this success, as always, "cherchet la femme", or "look for a woman." Heinrich Brocard owes much of his work to his wife, Charlotte Reve, a Belgian by birth, born in Russia and educated in Moscow, she was very familiar with our culture. 
CHARLOT AND HEINRICH BROCAR.
Valentin Pikul writes in the story “A Fragrant Symphony of Life”: “The Brocards opened a second store on Birzhevaya Square, and then the police had to be called, because a huge crowd threatened to destroy the doors and break the windows in order to break through to the counter. The fact is that Charlotte Andreevna came up with an unprecedented surprise. For just one ruble, "sets" were sold: ten perfumes with the same aromas (perfume, cologne, powder, creams, sachets, lipsticks, etc.) were packed in an elegant box at once. They managed to sell only two thousand "sets", after which the police, all in a park, ordered the store to be closed, unable to cope with the oncoming crowd. 
However, at first, at the factory opened by Brocard in Russia, they did not produce perfumes at all, but ... perfumed soap. At the time, soap was in short supply. Brokar's soap had unusual shape, for example, spherical or with printed Russian letters - for children. Then a fountain of cologne was installed for the public, in which any person could dip a handkerchief for free - this was the beginning of the tremendous success of Brocard's Empire. The perfumes of the "New Dawn" were of excellent quality and were sold to many European countries. Unfortunately, the revolution of 1917 ended Brocard's Empire, but his factory, the famous "New Dawn", continued and continues to exist. 
Thanks to the factory, Novaya Zarya Street appeared in Moscow in connection with the planned construction of residential buildings on it for workers and employees of the factory. Until 1929, this name was given to the modern 4th Roshinsky passage. On October 10, 1929, the name was assigned to the street adjacent to the passage, which still bears this name today. 
The most famous brainchild of Brocard was the perfume "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet", published in 1913. Today it is known as "Red Moscow". These perfumes were created especially for the Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna, the last Russian Empress. However, although "Red Moscow" is presented as the same "Bouquet", there is an opinion that this is not entirely true. The fact is that, apart from Brocard, no one knew the exact composition of the Bouquet, and after his death, the exact analogue was never found - Heinrich took it with him to the grave. 
Now Novaya Zarya is successfully competing with foreign perfume companies. Despite the fact that the flavors of "New Dawn" retain excellent quality. 
However, in every barrel of honey there is always a fly in the ointment. Many of today's New Dawn perfumes repeat either the fragrance or the bottle of well-known foreign perfumes. Obviously, such coincidences are not accidental. For example, "Green Tea" from New Dawn is very similar to "Green Tea" from Elizabeth Arden. But "White Tea" sends us straight to "Au The Blanc" from Bvlgari. "Delicate Musk" (by the way, a great fragrance from the wonderful series "Magic of Patchouli", "Golden Amber" and "Delicate Musk") is reminiscent of "Musk Kublai Khan" by Serge Luten. "Kuznetsky Most" is a clone of the famous "Climat". In the "Red Poppy" one can easily recognize "Flower by Kenzo". And in “White Iris” I personally hear “Anais Anais” from Cacharel. And so on and so forth... 
BOUGHT THESE PERFUME. FRAGRANCE EXACTLY LIKE CLIMAT. 
I think that every person familiar with perfumery can have their own associations. However, all these comparisons do not detract from the quality of New Dawn perfumery - the aromas are excellent! Perhaps many people will be able to afford to buy these domestic counterparts of foreign perfumes if the prices for imported perfumes seem too high. 
Surely, many have already paid attention to billboards on the streets of Moscow, which advertise the Nouvelle Etoile perfumery store. This is nothing but our old friend New Dawn, only in French, in a Russian-French project. 
Not only Russian, but also French professionals continue to work on the fragrances of Novaya Dawn. This means that the exchange of perfume experience between our two countries continues. Let's hope that this cooperation will not greatly affect the prices of long-loved perfumes. 
FOR MEN 
MORE ABOUT SPIRIT "RED MOSCOW".
"Red Moscow" - famous in Soviet time women's perfumes produced by the Moscow factory "New Dawn" (before the revolution - "Brockard and Co"). They contain more than 60 components, the official description of the perfume says: “A thin, warm, noble aroma with a hint of orange blossom.” 
Rudolf Arkadyevich Fridman in his book "Perfume", edition of 1955, writes: "Red Moscow - is associated with graceful warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodic, plastic melodiousness", "perfume" Red Moscow ", mainly representing a violet complex, by smell, it is rather sentimental in itself, but which, thanks to a change in timbre and the introduction of a number of harmonizing substances, received a special beauty and richness of smell”, “Perfume "Red Moscow", consisting of a mixture of bases of iris, violet, carnation for the perfection (rounding) of all these primary materials and to enhance their delicate scent, they need a significant proportion of jasmine essence. Renata Litvinova characterizes them as "sugary, concentrated ... giving rise to a feeling of normal healthy nostalgia." In 1958, they were awarded a prize at the World Exhibition in Brussels. 
According to a less popular version, the Red Moscow perfume was created in the mid-1920s. with the participation of Polina Zhemchuzhina (wife of the future People's Commissar V. M. Molotov) and are not directly related to pre-revolutionary fragrances, since at that time the corresponding ingredients were not yet used in perfumery. 
There is also an urban legend about the special similarity of the Red Moscow and Chanel No. 5 fragrances. At the same time, either Soviet perfumes are interpreted as an attempt by the Soviet perfume industry to copy the famous French fragrance, or it is alleged that the French fragrance was synthesized by Ernest Bo (who worked in Moscow before the revolution) based on the "Empress's Bouquet".
Class: Mass-Market, Middle-Market, Natural
Country Russia
Price range:100 – 15 00 rub
Official site: http://novzar.ru/shop/
The Novaya Zarya brand (Moscow) produces perfumed products in three classes:
- Classic, where it is customary to include such fragrances as "Red Moscow" or "Elena".
- Modern, which have been produced for a couple of years, and then discontinued, like Kuznetsky Most or Naughty.
- Limited edition, produced in several batches, like "Persian Lilac".
In addition, the factory is actively working on the production of care and decorative cosmetics. Her lines are divided into men's and women's. Nail care products are presented in the Lux and Standard class.
How it all began
153 years ago, the hereditary perfumer Heinrich Brokar came up with a brilliant idea - to create his own enterprise, where he would produce soap. And in the same year, he brought his idea to life - the first bars of cheap soap came off the assembly line, each of which had a letter of the alphabet. Baby soap went "with a bang." But Heinrich himself was in no hurry to stop, on the contrary, already in the 70s of the last century, he released a series of products related to high perfumery: perfumes and colognes. For several years, his company has become a leader Russian market of those times, it also gradually takes pride of place abroad.
The revolution of 1917 did not bypass the factory - it was transferred to state ownership and renamed, it received a new name - the soap factory at number 5. After 5 years, the country's leadership transferred the factory to GosZnak, and since November it has become known as "New Dawn" - the factory perfumery and soap products.
Nouvelle Etoile - New Dawn trademark
Prominent figures of the world of perfumery from France took an active part in the development of new generation products. The largest contribution was made by Michel Almarac and Francis Camai. It was they who, in their laboratories, created the fragrances that allowed New Dawn to receive many international awards. Models of packages, bottles got their shape thanks to light hand designer from France - Thierry de Bashmakoff. And since the beginning of autumn 2004, such partnership activities have brought results - the Nouvelle Etoile trademark is registered.
Despite a sharp turn in the history of the company, its management strictly ensures that all products comply with world standards and traditions introduced by Heinrich Brocard. Thanks to the documentation accumulated since his time, many aromas of the past have been preserved, which have harmoniously passed into the popular novelties of Nouvelle Etoile.
Now in our country, the company's products can be bought in 38 stores of the Nouvelle Etoile chain, which are located in 31 cities. And if in 2006, which became the impetus for the development of the network, perfumes could be bought only here, now you only need to go to the website of the factory's online store.
Products
It has more than 1000 titles. From perfumed deodorants and car fresheners to Limited edition and Classic perfumes. All products are natural raw materials. For example, a series of cosmetics for skin care "Russian Beauty" will help to preserve youth thanks to natural and well-chosen components. Super Revitalizing Facial Serum contains cornflower extract to reduce puffiness and help restore wrinkle-free beauty to the skin.
Thematic table of contents (For life)
Well, let's remember the products of the Moscow factory "New Dawn". Let's start with the fact that this is its Soviet name, and before the revolution it was called by the name of its owner, Heinrich Afanasyevich Brocard or Henri Brocard.
The factory was a family business. The owner, a Frenchman who married a Russian, and who had knowledge and skills in the field of perfumery (he was from a family of perfumers), organized a new production. The factory produced products no worse than the French ones and was one of the first in Russia to start using a variety of advertising technologies: soap as a gift when buying cologne, cute postcards in addition to purchases, bonuses, interestingly cleaned shop windows, etc. But this is a different story.
Here we will talk about the perception of Novaya Zarya products by women in the 80s. Indeed, these spirits were not appreciated, at least in Moscow. The most famous of them were "Red Moscow". They even received some prize at an international exhibition, but a very long time ago. Perfume was sold in a beautiful bottle with a brush and in a red box with a silhouette of the Kremlin wall. I didn't like the smell of them, for example, but they were persistent. In general, the durability of a perfume depends on the amount of its own perfume composition per volume of liquid. Since the 1980s, there has been less and less perfume composition, and not only in our perfumes, but all over the world.
Is it possible to compare the then French perfume with today's? Those were very persistent. For 20 years, it smelled of some perfumed handkerchief, which was forgotten in the pocket of an old dress stored on the mezzanine. Sometimes they could be bought in large department stores or specialized stores, for example, GUM, Podarki. French perfumes cost about 25 rubles, speculators sold for 40. Or maybe 35 and 50 - I don’t remember already. And "Red Moscow" cost somewhere around 5-7 rubles.
French perfumes were considered very a good gift, they were given to beloved women, doctors, teachers, officials, and “Red Moscow” could be presented to a grandmother.
In the 70s, Arab perfumes were still popular, which were brought from Egypt by our specialists working there at large facilities. And they were sold in shops. Ah, Nefertiti! How I liked them! Unfortunately, these spirits do not exist today. The French bought the Arab brands and destroyed them.
Polish perfumes were sold in the Wanda brand store. Quoted "Pani Valevskaya" in a blue long bottle.
As a last resort, they bought spirits "Dzinters" - Latvian.
So "New Dawn" was in last place in the rating of consumer preferences.
In addition to Krasnaya Moskva, Novaya Zarya produced the Stone Flower perfume in the original green box, similar to a malachite mountain, and the Lily of the Valley Silvery perfume (although I simply loved Lily of the Valley), and, of course, Chypre " for men. Perfume "Red Poppy". I don't remember anymore. But their range has not changed for decades.
My husband still divides all perfumes into "Chipr", "Lily of the Valley" and "Red Moscow". In principle, he is right: smells are divided into chypre, floral and fantasy.
Just before the end of the USSR (or at the beginning of the 90s?), the factory created a new perfume - "Scythian Gold". Then there was the Kuznetsky Most. They were in demand. Then they already made new perfumes almost every three months. Oddly enough, Novaya Zarya is still intact, moreover, they have no competitors in Russia.
They have brand stores, and they keep on the shelves everything that has ever been released. So I found out that they had not only "Silver Lily of the Valley", but also perfumes that imitated the smells of almost all existing colors such as geraniums and mimosa. And I love pure floral fragrances without impurities - they once started perfumery back in Ancient Egypt. Have you seen high cones on the heads of some of the women depicted in the frescoes? It was a kind of perfume, and they consisted of fat, which was held by the smell of jasmine and roses.
I'm not sure if Novaya Zarya produced creams, but I'll still remember them. For example, I always bought Velvet cream in glass bottles - it was pink. Suitable for all occasions, but had one drawback: it was difficult to shake out of the bottle, especially towards the end. It's a pity he disappeared. It was said about our creams that, although their packaging is unsightly, they are natural, environmentally friendly. And the cream "Children's" was good. And cucumber lotion. And loose powder in cardboard boxes. True, I myself have already used compact powder.
Many liked domestic lipstick, again on the principle of harmlessness. For some reason, it was instantly erased for me, and I preferred French, English, Italian, which, again, could be bought without special trouble in large Moscow stores. Not always, but no, no, yes, and I came across.
There are many spirits today, and they are very different. Now people no longer think that if perfumes are French, then they are the best. All perfumes have lost their durability, and it makes no sense to pay 10 times more - it will be the same. Of course, popular brands are bought, but there is a demand for narrow original lines, and even for individual smells. In this diversity there is a place for the spirits of the "New Moscow". Anyway, I don't pass by their shops.
For many decades it was considered that real perfumes were made only in France. Of course, the art of French perfumers is unparalleled, and yet high-quality perfumes are produced in many countries, including Russia. Many women, for example, unfairly ignore the New Dawn perfume, and yet some samples of perfumery from this factory are in no way inferior to French ones.
History of the "New Dawn"
The New Dawn factory was founded in 1864 by the Frenchman Heinrich Brocard. Of course, the name then was different: the company received a new “revolutionary” name in 1922. In the interval between the October Revolution and the renaming into Novaya Zarya, the factory bore the unattractive name Perfume and Soap Plant No. 5.
Like other perfumes of that time, "Persian Lilac" was distinguished by its simple composition, which, however, did not prevent the fragrance from becoming popular not only in the Russian Empire, but also abroad.
After the revolution, the fame of the factory was brought by the perfume "Red Moscow". This fragrance, extremely popular in the middle of the 20th century, is still produced today. There are no indifferent to this perfume: someone considers it hopelessly outdated and tasteless, and someone is sure that this classic fragrance is truly luxurious and will never go out of fashion.
At the beginning of the 21st century, Novaya Zarya began to produce products in collaboration with French perfumers under the brand name Nouvelle Etoile. New luxury fragrances appeared at a higher price than before, increased attention was paid to perfume packaging.
The New Dawn Phenomenon
Soviet women did not have much choice: French and even Polish perfumes were not so easy to get, and Novaya Zarya products were affordable. Relatively inexpensive and very persistent fragrances were popular: probably every inhabitant of the Soviet Union had a bottle of "Red Moscow" or "Scythian Gold".
The "Iron Curtain" opened, and women of fashion got the opportunity to purchase any foreign fragrances. In most cases, however, crude fakes were offered to inexperienced customers, but soon the real works of French perfumers became quite affordable. However, despite all this abundance, many in the twenty-first century continue to use the products of the Novaya Zarya factory with pleasure. What is the secret of the popularity of these perfumes?
Conventionally, Novaya Dawn products can be divided into three groups:
- Classic fragrances ("Red Moscow", "Scythian Gold", "Elena" and other famous perfumes);
- Fashionable fragrances (a series of fragrances that are produced for several years and then discontinued. This group includes the perfumes "Sweetheart", "Naughty", "Kuznetsky Most" and others);
- Limited editions (only one or two batches of such perfumes are produced, for example, "Persian Lilac" - a copy of one of the very first fragrances by Heinrich Brocard).
Why do people like "New Dawn"?
New Dawn products have many advantages. First of all, the advantages include, of course, the price: the original products of the oldest perfume factory are often cheaper than primitive fakes made in artisanal conditions.
"Novaya Zarya" offers a huge range of perfumes, and the aromas are diverse, which means that every woman can find her "own" perfume. It is important that the smells of New Dawn perfumes are for the most part very persistent: a few drops of perfume are enough to smell sweet for hours.
Disadvantages of New Dawn perfumery
The perfumery of the famous factory also has disadvantages - perhaps they are what prevent the company from gaining international popularity. So, due to the lack of advertising, most of the new products remain unknown to ordinary buyers. The advertising that exists gives a very vague idea about the products, which also does not contribute to the popularity of fragrances. The same can be said about the names of perfumes, which are often not very successful. For example, names like "Sweetheart in the afternoon" or "Scandal" cause bewilderment.
Very often, the Novaya Zarya factory is accused of cloning well-known "promoted" fragrances.
For example, the fragrance "Kuznetsky Most" in white packaging is almost identical to "Climat" from Lancome, while "Green Tea" and "Pepper Tea" suspiciously resemble perfumes from Elizabeth Arden. There are many such examples, according to consumers. At the same time, in most cases, the flavors of "New Dawn" are inferior to the originals. Despite the fact that the Novaya Zarya factory gives its customers the opportunity to purchase analogues of famous and fashionable perfumes at a ridiculous price, such copying of fragrances does not suit the oldest perfume factory with a rich history.
Another drawback of the factory's products is, oddly enough, its inaccessibility. In many cities of Russia, it is easier to buy original French perfume than perfume from the Novaya Zarya factory. And the fragrances of limited editions are not repeated, which causes a lot of criticism from those who liked this perfumery.
Packaging often causes dissatisfaction. It is clear that low prices are explained by the minimal cost of producing bottles and boxes for them, and yet defiantly cheap plastic skewed caps and bottles, devoid of any individuality, are not liked by everyone. However, there are exceptions, for example, charming vintage bottles from the "Precious Stones" series.
Maria Bykova
