One-piece stand-up collar construction. High stand-up collar, one-piece, with bodice, pattern construction. Stand, one-piece cut with shelf and back
The upper part of the shawl collar is always cut out along with the collar. The lower collar can be cut together with the front (one-piece) or as a separate piece.
Let's consider the sequence of making a one-piece shawl collar using the example of a silk vest from:
Pattern:
A crepe vest with a shawl collar, fastened with one hidden button, will make a worthy…
Before you begin processing the shawl collar, you need to sew the shoulder seams. Overcast seam allowances and press.
Step 1
Place the front sides right sides together and sew the back middle seam on the one-piece lower collar with front sides. Overcast the inner edge of the collar.
Step 2
Sew the lower collar into the neck of the back, laying lines on both sides of the line of the middle of the back, then sew the darts with the same lines. Notch the seam allowances in the rounded areas in several places and iron them out. Iron the dart depths forward.
Step 3
Fold the edges right sides together, and on the one-piece top collar with the edges, sew the back middle seam. Press seam allowances.
Step 4
Pin the back neck facing to the collar with a one-piece top collar front side to the front side and stitch to the inner edge of the upper collar between the corners. Cut the hem in the corners close to the last stitches of the seam (arrow).
Step 5
Sew the hem and back neck facing along the shoulder sections (in this pattern this is reference mark 7). Cut seam allowances close to the lines, score and press. Overcast the inner edges of the hems and the back neckline.
Step 6
Pin the hem and facing of the back neckline with the top collar to the front and bottom collar, right side to front side, while the lapels of the hem and the top collar should be slightly larger than the lapels of the front and bottom collar. Sew along the bottom edges of the shelves, edges and collar. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, not reaching 2 cm from the ends of the edges. In the rounded areas, notch the seam allowances.
Step 7
Turn the collar inside out, turn the hem and back neck facing to the wrong side. Sweep and iron the edges. Fold the collar and flaps along the fold lines, and baste the upper collar with oblique basting stitches.
Step 8
Precisely pin the collar stitching seams and sew them with a “back needle” stitch by hand.
Source and illustrations: Burda 6/2018
The one-piece collar is formed at the front by a continuation of the bodice. The back of the collar is cut out together with the front of the bodice. Such collars can also be worn casually, but most often they are made with lapels.
One-piece collars are used in cases where the accuracy of the parts does not have of great importance or simplification of processing is required (light blouses, casual dresses, etc.).
Turn-down collar with lapel(Fig. 316) are usually folded back along the sides of the neck.
Rice. 316
On the front part of the bodice drawing, draw a half-skid line and mark the buttons (Fig. 317). The width of the half-skid is 2 cm.
Rice. 317
Continue the mid-front line up.
Draw a line perpendicular to the shoulder line, which will indicate the stand-up line of the back of the collar. Place a piece along this line below that is equal to the length of the back neckline (notch 1; for example, 6 cm).
When measuring the length of the back neckline, you must subtract the size of the dart opening, if any.
From notch 1, draw a line to the right perpendicular to the line of the stand, mark the desired height of the stand along it and place notch 2.
The height of the stand is always limited by the length of the neck; in this case it is 8 cm.
From notch 2, draw a line parallel to the line of the stand (notch 3).
Draw a fold line for the lapel. Place a dot in the middle of the distance between notch 3 and the shoulder line. 0.2-0.3 cm to the left of this point, draw a slightly curved line running from the middle of the collar parallel to the stand-up line, and then to notch 4, located on the half-skid line at the level of the first loop.
In most of these collars, the lapels do not have a sharp line of inflection, so there is no need to draw one.
To construct the lapel, transfer the collar pattern onto a sheet of paper, leaving small seam allowances along the lines that will not change - the shoulder line, the stand, the middle of the collar, the line segment between notches 2 and 3 and the lower part of the half-skid line from notch 4.
Leave a wide margin between notches 3 and 4.
Cut the paper along the shoulder and post lines.
Fold the collar along the fold line, place the center of the collar in proper position, secure it to the figure and mark the lapel; then place the drawing on the table and refine the shape of the lapel.
To improve the fit of the collar, a small dart is placed in the area between the shoulder line and part of the neck line of the base (Fig. 318). On the translated pattern, continue the line of the collar stand down. Then smoothly connect it to the front neckline.
The length of the dart is equal to 2/3 of the length of the front neckline. The size of its opening, which varies depending on the curvature of the neckline of the front base, is approximately 1 cm.
On the pattern (Fig. 319), mark the width of the hem at the level of the first button. The hem should cover the loops and have an allowance of 1-2 cm. It is usually made 8-10 cm wide.
Rice. 319
Continue the line upward obliquely so that along the shoulder line it is 2-3 cm from the neck line.
Determine the direction of the sewing thread. In this case, there may be two options for the share direction of NITI:
- Along the middle front line. This is the simplest solution, but will result in a seam in the middle of the collar.
- In the middle of the collar to avoid a seam. In this case, a different direction of threads is formed on both parts of the hem.
Cutting a one-piece collar along the bias direction of the fabric thread does not affect the quality of the product, especially if a side lining is provided. But if the clothes are often washed and the fabric tends to shrink significantly, it is necessary to place the middle front of the hem along the grain thread.
The lower part of the hem is cut out along the grain thread. To do this, cut off the hem pattern a few centimeters below the first loop and cut it out separately (see arrow in Fig. 319).
In the product shown in Fig. 320, the collar fits less to the neck and lies flatter on the shoulders.
Rice. 320
To build a collar, transfer the drawing shown in Fig. onto a sheet of paper. 318. Divide the back of the collar into four parallel strips (Fig. 321).
Rice. 321
Transfer the drawing again to another sheet of paper, moving each strip apart by 0.8 cm (Fig. 322).
Rice. 322
The amount of expansion can be reduced or increased at will from 0.4 to 1.2 cm.
Draw a collar line (solid line) in the same way as in the previous collar. In this case, the fold line runs closer to the stand.
Transfer a small neckline dart onto the pattern using the drawing in Fig. 318.
The selection drawing is constructed as stated above.
A shawl-type collar, one-piece with a collar, is shown in Fig. 323. When processing such a collar, the lower collar is sewn into the neck, which contributes to its better fit.
Rice. 323
To construct a drawing of a collar on the front, draw a half-skid line and mark the buttons (Fig. 324).
Rice. 324
On the shoulder line, at a distance of 3 cm from the neck line, indicate a point through which the inclined line will pass, marking the line of the collar stand. This value corresponds to the average and large sizes products (for chest circumference of at least 90 cm). For small sizes, the value of 3 cm is reduced by 0.2 cm for every 5 cm of size to a minimum value of 1.6 cm (for example, for a chest girth of 90 cm and more - 3, for 85 - 2.8, for 80 - 2 ,6 cm, etc.).
Through the marked point, draw a line for the collar stand, tangent to the neck line at point 1.
From notch 1, measure the length of the neck line to the shoulder line and transfer this value to the stand line. Place notch 2. This notch can be located above, below the shoulder line, and sometimes on the shoulder line itself.
Along the line of the stand (base) of the collar, place upward from the notch 2 pieces equal to the length of the back neckline minus the size of the back dart opening, if any. Place notch 3.
From notch 3, draw a line in the middle of the collar, perpendicular to the base, mark the width of the collar on it and place the figure. 324 notch 4.
Parallel to the base line of the collar, draw a departure line with a length equal to the length of the back neckline, and place a notch 5.
To construct the collar fold line, place a point in the middle between notches 2 and 5. The stand fold line runs 0.4-0.5 cm to the left of this point.
Mark the departure line for the collar. Fold the paper along the fold line of the collar from notch 6 on the half-skid line to the level of notch 1. Attach the pattern to the figure and mark the lapel. Place the pattern on the table and specify the intended line from notch 6 to notch 5. Continue the neck line from notch 1 to the departure line and place notch 7.
On the prepared drawing, construct the lower part of the hem (down from the chest line), as shown in Fig. 325.
Rice. 325
At the level of notch 2, draw a 1.5 cm long segment to the left and connect the resulting point with the hem at the level of the chest line.
The direction of the pick thread is chosen.
The edge of the hem from the level of notch 1 (see Fig. 324) to the shoulder line should be pulled back.
To check the correct location of the bead line, transfer part of the collar from Fig. to a sheet of paper. 324 and transfer all the notches there (Fig. 326). Translate part of the bodice. Transfer the drawing of these two parts to cotton fabric, placing the lines of the middle of the front and collar along the grain of the fabric (for one side of the figure).
Rice. 326 Cut out the pieces, leaving seam allowances and extra fabric along the lapel (dashed lines behind notch 7).
Draw a line from the middle of the front and mark the top button.
Sew the collar into the neckline along the line of the stand, i.e. from notch 2 to notch 7, then behind notch 7. Notch and iron the seam.
Attach the collar to the figure, bending it in in the right place. Correct the edge line if necessary.
Rice. 327
The departure line of the collar shown in Fig. 327, mark as shown in Fig. 328.
Rice. 328
Punch out the collar between notches 1 and 2 and place the fabric flat on the table. Place the fabric on the auxiliary pattern (see Fig. 324) and transfer the new bead line there.
The neck line in such a collar should be finished as shown in Fig. 328.
Rice. 329
A shirt-type collar, cut with ruffles, can be worn closed (Fig. 329) or with open lapels (Fig. 330).
Rice. 330
Draw a drawing of a one-piece collar with a collar and slightly widen it (Fig. 331).
Rice. 331
Draw a line for the neckline of the collar and bodice along the neckline of the base (from notch 1 to notch 8). Specify the width of the collar and the half-skid line. Draw the collar departure line according to the model.
However, do not make the corner at the end of the collar too sharp, as it will be difficult to process.
The selection is built as described above.
The drawings of the given collars can be used not only for dresses, but also for coats.
The emergency collar (Fig. 332) should fit snugly to the neck, for which the tilt of the stand of the classic collar should be changed.
Rice. 332
Draw a line for the collar stand as shown in Fig. 333, i.e. the slant intersects the shoulder line at a distance of 2 cm from the neck line (instead of 3 cm).
Rice. 333
For products of small sizes, proportionally reduce this value, as indicated for the classic collar.
Just as for a one-piece classic collar, transfer to this inclined line the length of the front neck line from notch 1 to the shoulder line, and then the length of the back neck line between notches 2 and 3.
Draw a line perpendicular to the line of the collar stand, in accordance with the width of the collar (average 3-4 cm).
Draw the collar line along the back neckline (parallel to the stand between notches 4 and 5).
On the bodice, draw half-skid, neckline and fly-away lines according to the model.
The line of the collar stand needs to be clarified, that is, draw it smoothly, starting from notch 2 down (Fig. 334).
Rice. 334
Check that the length of the collar stand and neck line are consistent. If necessary, change the length of the collar stand by moving the center line.
The edging is cut out separately or as a whole cut with a collar.
The stand-up collar is formed by the continuation of the front and back of the bodice (Fig. 335). To prevent such a collar from causing creases on the bodice, you need to take into account the difference in the inclination of the neck in relation to the bodice.
Rice. 335
Take the basic pattern for the back and transfer it to a sheet of paper. Draw a dart from the neckline. To do this, increase the width of the back neckline by 0.5 cm and reduce the shoulder dart opening by the same amount. Close it and draw a new shoulder cut line through the new point of the back neck width without changing its height (see Fig. 336, a, solid line). Continue the line of the middle of the back up, and through the new point of the width of the neck of the back, draw a straight line parallel to the line of the middle of the back (dashed line). Set aside a 4 cm long segment on this straight line and set aside 1.5 cm horizontally to the left of the resulting point (numbers in circles). Draw the line of the stand as shown in Fig. 336, d.
Rice. 336
Draw the contours of the collar horizontally or parallel to the line of the back neckline (see Fig. 336, b).
To draw a dart, mark its middle first, placing the dart in the middle of segment 1-2. On both sides of the middle line of the dart, set aside pieces equal to 0.4-0.5 cm. The length of the dart is 6-8 cm from the neck line. Connect the resulting dots. The dart can have both vertical and inclined positions. In this case, the shoulder dart should be parallel to the neckline dart.
On the front of the bodice, through the highest point of the shoulder section, draw a horizontal line 4 cm long and through the resulting point draw a vertical line 3 cm long upward. Draw the stand line as shown in Fig. 337, a. To the right along this line, set aside a segment equal to the width of the stand (Fig. 337,b), and draw the contours of the collar along the model.
Rice. 337
On the front of the bodice you need to draw two small darts. Take their direction the same as on the back.
On both sides of the middle of the front neck, 2 cm to the left and 1 cm to the right of it, mark the middle of the darts with parallel lines. The opening size of each dart along the neck line is 3-4 cm, and the length is 5-6 cm. The size and slope of the darts depend on the figure, fabric, fashion, etc.
The hem in products with a standing one-piece collar is drawn for the front, as shown in Fig. 145 and 146 with the addition of part of the collar. Front neck darts should be drawn only for fabric that is not elastic enough. In this case, the darts are moved slightly so that they do not overlap the darts of the main fabric.
The back of the collar is treated with an oblique strip of width equal to the width of the front hem.
Six patterns of collars with a one-piece stand. These patterns can be used as standard patterns for collars when sewing blouses or dresses, and, taking into account modern trends, they can be used in slightly different ways. This, of course, will be a collar in any version, but...
Do you follow fashion? Then you understand that today you cannot do without a detachable collar.
Modern detachable collar very diverse, its appearance depends on the imagination of the master, and the imagination of the master is limitless. Hence lace and leather, rhinestones and pearls, sequins and beads, ribbons and feathers, etc.
For detachable collar can be used different types and collar styles.
For example, in our last publication we offered you patterns for several options. And today we offer you pattern of a stand-up collar with a one-piece stand-up.
Remember that the length of the collar stitching line should correspond to the length of the neck line - this refers to the standard use of these collar patterns. Therefore, it is better to cut the collar after the first fitting, i.e. after clarifying and establishing the neck line.
When using these patterns to make an independent part - detachable collar, compare your neck circumference measurement with the length of the collar stand on the pattern. If necessary, you can see how to change the collar pattern (increase or decrease).
In order for the collar pattern to serve you for a long time, it is better to make it from thin thick cardboard or thin plastic, etc.
Preparing the pattern for work is extremely simple. Click on the diagram located at the end of the article and pattern opens in a new window.
Print the proposed collar pattern on a regular printer, glue it in accordance with the diagram (printed on the first sheet), cut it out and the pattern is ready for use. Check the control square 10x10cm, its sides must correspond exactly to 10cm! If you have any questions, you can see the printing instructions
For those who want to create a pattern for a specific figure based on the measurements taken, we have detailed step-by-step instructions:
Having such a basic pattern, you can create a wide variety of styles of dresses, skirts, etc.
Collar patterns are given without seam allowances.
When cutting, do not forget to give seam allowances and remember that the pattern of the upper collar along the departure line should be 1-3mm larger than the pattern of the lower collar. The thicker the fabric, the greater this difference should be. This will ensure a good fit and a great looking finished product.
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We continue our free mini course on creating a wardrobe.
Today you will learn how to cut one-piece collar with stand and cutout.
We look at the sketch. The shoulder seam goes into the stand. The stand is sewn along the back and connected to each other with a seam in the center. The difference between this collar is that it never meets at the top corner of the stand and smoothly transitions into the neckline. You determine the shape of the neckline for yourself as you wish; it can be more or less open. In the sketch you see a blouse, but this form of a one-piece collar with a stand-up collar can be used for a dress.
In addition to the knowledge that you already have, namely how to assemble a base, how to fit a figure, how to break it into reliefs, how to make a fastener correctly, how to make a raglan sleeve, how to make a one-piece sleeve and much more, we will understand different forms of collars.
Our task is to learn how to build a one-piece collar that turns into a stand-up collar. For this we need our basic pattern according to the 10-measurement system, we will not work on the entire model, but only on the design of this new part.
To work on the collar we need to cut out the back piece. On the front pattern we mark the line of the center of the front, the edge of the side, I hope that you are no longer confused in the terminology. 
In front of you is a dart, here it looks like this, but since it will bother me in this form, so I opened it into the armhole and will make a dart from the armhole, and at the same time for you an additional lesson on how the dart is transferred to the armhole.
Now let’s start constructing our one-piece stand-up collar. 
Here is the neck line, the shoulder seam line. Look, I repeat again, here is the front center line. Here is the point of the base of the neck. Neck line. Here is the starting point of the shoulder of the shelf. Pay attention to the line bust dart and from there we determine the place for the first button. We mark it with a dot and, a little higher from it, determine the beginning of the line for the depth of the neckline. Then we begin to build the rack. To do this, draw a line to the shoulder line at a right angle (this is important!) and mark a point of 10 cm, and from it we draw a perpendicular line by 4 cm and mark it on the pattern (see photo) 
How to correctly outline the collar and neckline, see photo. 
After we have decided on the location of the first button, we draw a line for the neckline and a one-piece stand-up collar (see photo) 
To draw the resulting line, it was necessary to take a distance approximately in the middle of the neck line, in my case this distance is 1 cm more than half the segment. The neckline can be drawn as desired, more or less open.
We measure the total length of the neckline cm with tape (tape on the edge), in this case it is approximately 13 cm. The distance from the shoulder line to the intersection with the line of the one-piece collar is approximately 6.5 cm and the part of the neckline from the center front line is 5.5 cm. ( see photo) 
Let's start by cutting out the resulting pattern. Pay attention to the split between the neckline and shoulder line. 
We sew together the front and back parts along the main seams and create a dart.
This point, where we have the line of the neckline and collar, could be extended to the center of the front by 1 cm, but if you bring it too close to the line of the center of the front, your collar will not fit well. The option that I am showing you has already been worked out through experience and you won’t have to suffer with it to make a beautiful landing. 
Now I will show you a preliminary fitting on a dummy, pay attention to the fact that the center of the front is exactly located in the center of the front 
The neckline can be lowered down if you wear the product with a top. Notice how well cut our one-piece collar is. 
The stand can be rounded, but with a straight corner it also looks beautiful. What will be your option? The choice is yours.
Pay attention to the assembly of our model. When connecting the parts in the place where the notch is made, between the shoulder line and the collar, we put a point and connect it so that our seam from the point is laid in one direction and the other - this is the connection point along the line of the shoulder and collar, (see photo) 
Now, pay attention, we unfold it along the notch and sew along the neckline from the back (see photo) 
and sew in the other direction. We took 10 cm, but it’s better to make this distance a little more so that you have enough of it to connect with the other part in the center of the back; it’s better that you cut off the excess later than you won’t have enough of it. The seam goes along the shoulder and goes into the neckline. After we have swept away the parts, pay attention to the junction of the collar and the shoulder line, what the area where the notch was made looks like (see photo) The story about how to properly make this seam relates to technology, we will also add this to your knowledge. After the main seams are completed, we find the excess fabric of our collar and make a seam, connecting the two parts of our one-piece stand-up collar. 
After all the seams are smoothed out, we try it on and look at the result. 
Everything looks great! If the back seam needs correction (this will be visible when you try it on, not on a mannequin, but on a figure), the excess can be slightly tucked into the seam.
In your version, you have the right to make any shape and depth of the neckline and decorate the collar with a sharper or more rounded corner.
Thank you for your attention, I wish you all the best, I was with you, Paukshte Irina Mikhailovna.
Fashion Practices with Paukshte Irina Mikhailovna
The one-piece collar consists of two parts. The lower part of one-piece collars is cut out together with the front, and the upper part with the edging (in edgings, an extension of 2.5-3 cm below the top loop is allowed). In shape, one-piece collars, like set-in collars, can be with a larger or smaller stand, tightly fitting to the neck or lagging behind.
Drawings are also made on the patterns of the front of the bodice. The exception is a one-piece stand-up collar, the drawing of which is made on the patterns of the back and front of the bodice.
1.One-piece stand-up collar adjacent to the neck.
Back. Trace the main back pattern. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter P, the lower - R 1 .
The line of the middle of the back is continued upward by 3-4 cm (height of the stand) and a dot is placed A:R 1 A= 3-4 cm 
From point R the height of the stand on the shoulder is set upward vertically - it is equal to the height of the stand in the middle of the back minus 1 cm; put an end to it R 2 :
RR 2 = R 1 A- 1 = (3-4) - 1 = 2-3 cm
From point R 2 to the left horizontally and from the point R 1 cm are laid upward vertically. Both points of 1 cm are connected with a smooth curve, continuing it to the shoulder section.
Before. Trace the main front pattern with the shoulder dart moved to the side cut. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter IN, lower - IN 1 . Shoulder cut line from point IN continue to the right to the height of the counter and indicate IN 2 :
BB 2 = 2-3 cm
From point IN 2 upward at a right angle to the extended shoulder line, draw a segment equal to 1/2 the height of the stand; put an end to it IN 3 .
IN 2 IN 3 = (BB 2: 2) = (2-3) : 2 = 1-1.5 cm
Full stop IN 3 connect with a smooth curve to a point IN. The height of the stand in the middle of the front is equal to its height along the shoulder section or is determined by the model. The upper cut of the collar can be brought to the depth of the neck - point IN 1 , and if the front has a fastener, it is framed towards the edge of the side. Control points are marked at the highest points of the sprout and neck.
2.One-piece stand-up collar that lags behind the neck.
Back. The main back pattern is traced on a sheet of paper. The highest point of the sprout is designated by the letter R, lower - R 1 .
Expand the sprout by 1-3 cm (point R 2):
RR 2 =1-3 cm
The middle line is continued upward by 6-8 cm (stand height) and a dot is placed A:
R 1 A= 6-8 cm
From point R 2 upward vertically, the height of the stand along the shoulder is set equal to its height in the middle minus 1 cm; put an end to it A 1 :
R 2 A 1 = (R 1 A- 1) = (6-8) - 1 = 5-7 cm
Points A 1 And A connected by a smooth concave curve. If the back has a seam, the line of the stand is extended to the left by 0.5 cm and the 0.5 cm point is connected under the ruler with the point R 1 .
From point A 1 set aside 0.5 cm to the left from the point R 2 up vertically - 1 cm. Connecting the points 0.5 cm and 1 cm with a smooth concave curve, draw a line for the side cut of the rack. Control point - at the point R 2
A tuck is made halfway along the new sprout line. Its width is 1 cm, the length up and down from the sprout line corresponds to the height of the stand 6-8 cm.
Before. Trace the main front pattern. The highest point of the neck is indicated by a dot IN, lowest IN 1 . If there is a fastener, give it a half-skid width of 2.5-3 cm to the middle of the front (point IN 2 ). Expand the neck by 1-3 cm (point IN 3):
BB 3 =1-3 cm
From point IN 3 draw a segment upward vertically equal to the height of the backrest at the shoulder seam; put an end to it AT 4:
IN 3 IN 4 = R 2 A 1 = 5-7 cm
From point AT 4 to the right horizontally set aside 2 cm, put a dot IN 5:
IN 4 B 5 = 2 cm
From point B 2 up along the extended line of the edge of the semi-skid, a segment equal to the height of the stand plus 1 cm is laid off; put an end to it IN 6:
IN 2 IN 6 = (IN 3 IN 4 + 1) = (5-7)+ 1 = 6-8 cm
From point AT 6 2 cm are laid horizontally to the right (point B 7):
IN 6 IN 7 =2 cm
The top and side sections of the collar are decorated, connecting the points with smooth concave curves IN 5 And IN 7 ,IN 5 And IN 3. Points IN 7 and IN 2 are connected under the ruler. Control point - at the point IN 3 .
Darts are made for 1/3 of the length of the new neckline (excluding half-skid). Its opening is 1-1.5 cm, the length up and down from the neck line corresponds to the height of the stand 6-8 cm.
3. Stand-up collar.
IN, lower - IN 1 .
Collar slope line. From point IN 1 is laid along the line of the middle front 15-20 cm and the position of the upper loop is noted. A point 15-20 cm is connected to a point IN under the ruler and continue the line upward beyond the shoulder section.
The line of stitching into the sprout. IN put upward a segment equal to 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck plus 1 cm, and put a dot A:
AB= POsh: 3+1 = 18: 3 + 1 =7 cm
From point A restore the perpendicular to the left, on which 1.5 cm is set aside (for a higher stand - 2-3 cm). Points 1.5 cm and B are connected by a slightly convex curve. Its length is compared with the length of the sprout and, if necessary, the line is extended upward.
Middle cut. From point A to the right, a perpendicular is restored, on which 8 cm is laid; put an end to it A 1:
AA 1 =8 cm
Full stop A 1 intersect with a line parallel to the line of inclination of the collar. On it from the point A 1 put 2 cm up. Points 2 cm and A connected by an auxiliary straight line.
From point A along the auxiliary line lay 6-14 cm and put a dot A 2 .
The entire width of the collar - a segment from a point of 1.5 cm to a point A 2 is divided into 3 parts and the left division point is connected to the specified line of stitching into the sprout.
The take-off cut is made with a line perpendicular to the line of the middle cut (it can be straight or concave - according to the style). We will clarify the size and configuration of the departure in the figure. To do this, the pattern is cut out with allowances along the flap sections of 3-5 cm. The lower part of the collar is cut out on the fabric, also with an allowance to specify the size and configuration of the flap. The upper collar with a collar is cut out after fitting, when the configuration and size of the lower collar are specified.
The half-skid allowance (2.5 cm) is set aside from the top loop - a point of 15-20 cm.
When building shawl collar construction begins by connecting the starting point of the side flap with the top point of the shoulder cut and neckline. 
This line is continued to the length of the back neckline. To obtain collars with to varying degrees fit to the neck, the deviation of the stitching line from the drawn straight line at the top point can be 1-4 cm towards the shoulder cut. 
Having established the required amount of deviation of the smooth curve, draw a line for sewing the collar into the neck of the back. In the area corresponding to the back of the product, this line runs almost parallel to the line of stitching into the neckline, then a smooth, evenly curved curve is brought to the beginning of the lapel lapel. The line of the middle of the collar is built on a perpendicular from the extreme point of the collar being set in to the line of setting in. Mark the desired collar width on the midline.
Based on this collar, by changing the flyaway configuration, you can get many options for one-piece collars. 
4.Flat one-piece collar.
Trace the front pattern on a piece of paper. The highest point of the neck is indicated by the letter IN.
Collar slope line. The position point of the upper loop is connected under the ruler to the point IN and continue the line upward beyond the shoulder section.
The line of stitching into the sprout. On the line of the collar inclination from the point IN upward, lay a segment equal to 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement, and put a dot A:
AB= POsh :3= 18: 3=6 cm
From point A restore the perpendicular to the left.
The back pattern is applied to the outline of the front so that the highest point of the sprout coincides with the highest point of the neck, and the lowest point of the sprout is on a line drawn from the point A. Outline the sprout and the middle of the back.
Middle cut. From the sprout, along the line of the middle of the back, 7-14 cm are laid - the width of the collar at the back.
Departure cut decorated according to style. The configuration and size of the rise are specified in the same way as when constructing a one-piece stand-up collar.
When constructing patterns for jacket-type collars on the base pattern, determine the position of the opening line, i.e., the line of stitching the collar into the neck on the turn-down part of the side. The position of this line is determined by fashion and the desire of the author of the product. The upper part of this line runs along the front neckline, and then is drawn simultaneously with the lapel shoulder line. Having outlined the lapel, depending on the position of its ledge, draw the lines of the ledge and the departure of the collar. The collar pattern is cut from the front pattern along the opening line. 
If set-in collars of this type should have a deepened, curved neck, the neck line is drawn on the pattern in a smooth curve from the point where the lapel turns (or the collar begins to be set in) to the top point of the shoulder section and neckline. The deviation of this line from the straight line connecting the points is usually 1-2 cm. The line for sewing in the collar is drawn symmetrically by a straight line, and its recess is also 1-2 cm. 
Options for fancy collars for open necks. 
