Ready-made patterns size 66. Dress pattern for obese women. Step-by-step instructions for creating a pattern. Loose Fit Increases

This section is dedicated to curvy women. We will look at and learn how to build patterns using several methods that are used when sewing clothes for overweight women. Here, as in previous lessons, we use step by step instructions constructing drawings of the basis of the dress, sleeves, etc.

As an example, in the first option we will take measurements that correspond to size 54 (chest girth 108 cm), so to speak, for women of average size. In the second option, we use, as an example, measurements corresponding to size 60 (chest girth 120cm), for women with more curvy figures. In both cases, we build patterns for the base of the dress. semi-adjacent silhouette, in accordance with this we take into account the increases for a loose fit along the lines of the chest, waist and hips.
You take measurements from your figure or from the figure of the person for whom you will sew the dress.
In any case, we recommend that after constructing the drawing and making the pattern, test it on something simple. For example, sew a robe from cheap fabric. If you are not at all sure, use an old sheet or other item that has served its time for sewing.

As a parting word: I wish you courage in your endeavors, perseverance, perseverance and patience in achieving your goal. Step by step, moving forward, you will overcome the path to perfection.
We use exactly step-by-step drawing instructions, to demonstrate and convince you that everything is actually not as complicated as it might seem at first glance. When you look at a finished drawing of a base pattern and have never encountered anything like this before, you may get the impression that all this is incredibly complicated and almost impossible. However, I note that the impossible is most often just something that we have not tried to do yet. Good luck!

SEMI-FITTING DRESS FOR WOMEN OF MEDIUM FITTING (for example, size 54)

To create a pattern drawing, you need to take the following measurements:
Recommendation: Take correct measurements. The entire result of your efforts will depend on this.
To take measurements more accurately, it is necessary to mark the starting points: the seventh cervical vertebra, which is clearly defined when the head is tilted, as well as the shoulder line at the base of the neck and at the junction of the arm and shoulder. Use pins or chalk for this if the woman is dressed. If you need to put a dot on the body, use a felt-tip pen, which can be easily erased with an alcohol-containing liquid after completing this procedure.
It’s good if the person you are taking measurements from is wearing thin dress, or better yet, only underwear. He, or rather she, since we are talking about a woman, should stand straight, without tension, i.e. maintain your normal posture. This is exactly what I draw your attention to. Because often when taking measurements or trying on, a woman, especially if she sees her reflection in the mirror, wanting to look slimmer, tightens her stomach, straightens her back, etc. The desire to look better is a good aspiration, but when taking measurements it can distort the real state of things. And a well-fitting dress being tried on, in ordinary life will not be as comfortable as we would like and as it should be.
Therefore, taking into account the above, turn the client away from the mirror, distract him with a peaceful conversation, tie a cord around his waist, mark the starting points and start measuring.

There are some differences in the proposed methods in the methods of taking measurements, in the number of measurements, in the names of measurements, etc. In this technique, the procedure for taking measurements is as follows:

Let's start building.
In the right corner of the prepared sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at the point R(Fig. 1).

Dress length.
From point P downwards we set aside the taken measurement of the length of the dress Di(100 cm) and put a dot N.

Armhole depth.
From point P downwards we set aside the taken measurement of the depth of the armhole ( Gpr=21 cm) and put a dot G.

Waistline.
From point P downwards we set aside the taken measurement of the length of the back to the waist (Dst=39 cm) and put a dot T.

Hip line.
From point T down is usually postponed 18 – 19 cm. We'll take the average 18,5 see and put a dot B.

From points G, T, B and N to the left at right angles we draw horizontal lines: the depths of the armhole, waist, hips and bottom.

Back width.
From point G to the left we put off the taken measurement of the width of the back Shs(19.5) plus 0,5 cm (increase for loose fit) and put a dot G1:
GG1 = Shs + 0.5 = 19.5 + 0.5 = 20 cm.

Distance to the sideline.
From point G1 To the left we set aside half of the taken measurement of the width of the armhole Shpr (12.5) minus 1 see and put a dot G2:
G1 G2 = Shpr: 2 – 1 = (12.5: 2)-1 = 5.25 cm.
From point G2 draw a straight line down and put dots at its intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T2 and B1.

Sprout width.
From point R set aside to the left 1/3 half neck circumference Ssh(19cm) plus 1 cm and put an end to it P1:
PP1 = 1/3 Ssh +1 = 19:3+1=7,3 cm.

Sprout height.
From point P1 upward we plot the difference between the height measurements of the sprout VR(41cm) and back length to waist Dst (39cm) and put an end to it P2:
Р1Р2 = Вр – Дст = 41 – 39 = 2 cm.
Points R And P2 connect with a concave smooth curve. We get the line of the back neckline (the sprout line).

Back height.
From point T1 We put the taken measurement of the shoulder height of the backrest up Vps(36 cm) and put a point P.

From point G1 set aside up 1/3 segment distances G1P and put an end to it ABOUT. Compass from a point ABOUT draw left through the point P arc.

Shoulder length.
From point P2 as from the center, with a radius equal to 15cm(measurement of shoulder length taken dp (13cm) plus 2cm to the dart), draw an arc until it intersects with a previously constructed arc (see Fig. 12). Place a point at the intersection of two arcs P1.
R2 P1 =13+2=15cm.
Points R2 And P1 connect.

Connecting the dots P1,O and G2 smooth curve, as shown in Figure 12, we complete the construction back armholes.

Back shoulder dart.
From point R2 left on the line R2 P1 set aside 1/3 of the taken measurement of shoulder length Dp and place point B;
Р2В=13:3=4.3 cm.
From point B downwards we draw a vertical line of length 8 cm and put point B1.

From point IN left along the line R2P1 postpone 2 cm and put an end to it AT 2. From the point IN 1 through the point AT 2 draw a line length 8 cm and put an end to it AT 3. Points V3P1 connect with a straight line and get back shoulder line.

Lateral line of the back.
From point T2 set aside to the right 2 cm and put an end to it T3. Points T3 And G2 connect.

Waist line design.
From point T3 set aside up 1 cm and put an end to it T4, points T4 And T connect with a smooth curve (see Fig. 16).

From point B1 set aside to the left 1/2 C6 (60+3=63 cm) and the second half chest circumference CgII with an allowance for a loose fit (54+4=58cm) and put an end to it B2:
B1, B2 = (63-58) : 2 = 2.5 cm. Points G4 And B2 connect with a smooth curve.

Width of the bottom of the back.
From point N to the left we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the back along the hip line (see drawing, this distance BB2) plus 2-3 cm and put an end to it H1. Points H1 And B2 H1 set aside up 1cm and put an end to it H2. Points H2 And N connect with a smooth curve.

Back dart.
Distance GG1 G3.From point G3 draw a vertical line down and place a dot at its intersection with the waist line T5, with the line of the hips - a point B3. From point G3 put down 4 cm and put an end to it AT 4, and from the point B3 up - 3 cm and put an end to it B4.

Depth of dart.
From point T5 to the right and left along the waist line we put it aside 1 cm and put dots T6 And T7 AT 4 And B4(see Fig. 20).

The construction of the back is completed.

Before
Bottom line of the back НН1 let's continue to the left. From point H1 set aside approximately 45-50 cm and put an end to it H3. From the point H3 draw a vertical line up. From points G2, T2, B2 to the left we draw horizontal lines until they intersect with the vertical. The points of intersection with the vertical line are designated accordingly G4, T8, B5.

Front width.
From point G4 to the right we put aside the taken measurement of the half-circumference of the chest second CrII with an allowance for a loose fit (54 + 4) minus back width with increase (according to drawing GG1 = 20 cm) and minus the armhole width (measurement taken 12.5 cm) and put an end to it G5:
G4G5=58-20-12.5=25.5 cm.
Through the point G5 draw a vertical line down, at the intersection of which with the waist line we place a dot T9.

Distance to the sideline. From point G5 to the right we set aside half the width of the armhole Shpr(12.5) plus 1 cm and put an end to it G6:
G5G6 = 12.5:2+1=7.25 cm.
From point G6 draw a vertical line down and put dots at its intersection with the horizontal lines T10 and B6.

Front height.
From point T8 We put the taken measurement of the length of the front to the waist up Dpt (44 cm) and put an end to it P3

Neck width.
From point P3 draw a horizontal line to the right and put it on it 1/3 half neck circumference Ssh!(19cm) plus 1 cm and put an end to it P4:
R3 R4 =19:3+1=7.3 cm.

Neck depth.
From point P3 put down 1/3 half neck circumference Ssh (19cm) plus 1.5 cm and put an end to it P5:
Р3Р5 = 19:3+1.5=7.8 cm.
Points R4 And P5 connect a straight line, divide it in half and mark the middle with a dot O1. From point O1 lay down at right angles 1.25 cm and put an end to it 02 . Points P5, 02 and P4 connect with a smooth curve and get the line of the neck of the shelf.

Center of the chest.
From point G4 to the right we put the taken measurement of the center of the chest Tsg (11 cm) and put an end to it G7. Points P4 And G7 connect.

Chest height.
From point P4 down, extending the line R4G7, set aside the chest height measurement taken Vg (29.5 cm) and put an end to it C.

End of dart.
Along the same line from the point C set aside up 2.5 cm and put an end to it C 1. The chest dart ends at this point.

The size of the tuck opening.
From point C We put the taken measurement of the size of the dart opening up Vrv (12 cm) and put an end to it U. From the point C, as from the center, through a point U draw an arc to the right.

Opening the dart.
From point U on the drawn arc we plot the difference between the measurements of the half-circumference of the chest of the second СгII (54cm) and half chest circumference of the first CgI (49cm) and put an end to it U1.
УУ1 = СгII – СгI = 54 - 49 = 5cm This construction can be done using a compass. From the point U, as from the center, radius 5cm draw an arc until it intersects with a previously constructed arc. Mark the intersection point U1.
Through dots Ts1 and U1 draw a straight line, continuing it upward by an amount that is equal to the distance Ts1R4 and put an end to it P2:
Ts1P2 = Ts1P4.

Front shoulder height.
On a straight line T9G5, extending it upward, from the point T9 set aside the taken measurement of the front shoulder height Runway (35 cm) and put an end to it P3.

Auxiliary armhole point.
From point G5 set aside up 1/4 distances G5P3 (4.5 cm) and put an end to it 03 . Dot 0 3 - check Point. When threading the sleeve into the armhole, it connects to the mark on the sleeve at the point ABOUT
From the point 0 3 using a compass through a point P3 draw an arc to the right.

Shoulder length. From the point P2 , as from the center, with a radius equal to the shoulder length measurement taken Dpl, (in our case 13cm) draw an arc until it intersects with a previously constructed arc and place a point P4 . Points P4 , 0 3 And
G6 connect with a smooth curve, thereby completing the construction of the front armhole .

Side line front.
From point T10 set aside to the left 1.5 cm and put an end to it T11. Points G6 and T11 connect with a straight line.

Waist line design.
From point T11 set aside up 1 cm and put an end to it T12. Points T8 and T12 connect with a smooth curve.

Formation of the lateral line in the hip area.
From point B6 set aside to the right 1/2 differences between hip circumference measurements Sat with an allowance for a loose fit (60+3=63 cm) and the second half chest circumference CgII with an allowance for a loose fit (54+4=58cm) and put an end to it B7:
B6 B7 = (63-58): 2 = 2.5 cm.
Points T12 and B7 connect with a smooth curve.

Front bottom width.
From point H3 to the right we set aside a value that is equal to the width of the front along the hip line (see drawing, this distance B5B7), plus 2-3 cm and put an end to it H4. Points B7 And N4 connect with a straight line. From point H4 set aside up 1 cm and put an end to it H5.

Lengthening the front.
From point H3 put down 2 cm and put an end to it H6. Points N6 and N5 connect with a smooth curve.

Construction of a dart.
Distance G7G5 divide in half and put a dot G8. From point G8 draw a vertical line down and place dots at the intersection with the lines of the waist and hips T13 and B8. From point G8 put down 6 cm, and from the point B8 up - 2 cm and put dots B5 and B9.

Recess depth.
From point T13 to the right and to the left we postpone by 1.25 cm and put dots T14 and T15, which we connect to the points B5 and B9. (See Fig. 42)

Construction completed.
But before you start cutting, don’t be too lazy to take a centimeter and check the basic measurements again. Pay special attention to the waist circumference, since in this method, when constructing darts along the waist line, not a calculated value is used, but a constant. If, when checking, you find significant discrepancies between the figure and the drawing (specifically in the waist circumference), they can be easily eliminated by reducing or increasing the opening of the darts along the waist line.

This is a basic dress pattern drawing - a guide for creating a wide variety of patterns. Before you start modeling, you need to check the pattern, “fit” it to the figure, and make adjustments if necessary. And only after full confidence that everything is in order, you can safely start creating.

And remember, the one who walks will master the road!

I sincerely wish you success!

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Pattern-basis for full figures, for sizes 50-58, is constructed using the same method as But differs in some specific features: allowances and shoulder seam line, due to the fact that a full bust and, very often, a full waist and belly require other allowances for a loose fit. And must be measured especially carefully.

Therefore, in this article, I decided to post a table with the real measurements of my clients, sizes 50-58, with body types “apple”, “pear”, “hourglass”. They will help you create your own individual base pattern.

Measurement chart for sizes 50-58.

Features of calculations for a base pattern of sizes 50-58.

Rule 1.

If for sizes 44-50 0.5 cm is added to half the chest circumference, then for patterns for full figures 54-58 - 0.7-1 cm. This is done so that the side seam does not move towards the front.

Rule 2.

When constructing a front pattern, size 54-58, due to big size darts – 11-15 cm, the shoulder seam line can be drawn at a significant angle. This makes the front armhole small and short for the size. It is very difficult to sew a sleeve into it correctly and beautifully.

Therefore, when I create a pattern, I usually check the shoulder slope line with a reference measure - oblique chest height - VGk. Even if it coincides with the drawn shoulder line, I “raise” the shoulder seam by 1-1.5 cm - the drawing is on the lower collage. And, as a rule, during fitting, if we are sewing a dress model with sleeves, we deepen the armhole by 1.5-3 cm for blouses and dresses, and by 2-4 cm for jackets

Rule 3.

For fuller apple shapes, the side seam line typically runs through the points at the intersection of the bust, hip, and reference lines. And the width of the side and central darts is only 2-2.5 cm

For hourglass and pear silhouette figures, it is more difficult to create a base pattern due to the large difference in the sizes of the chest, waist and hips. For example, if OG is 110 cm, From is 90 cm, and OB is 118, the width of the darts is 3 cm

As a result, you get a rather sharp bend in the side seam, which is difficult to iron when sewing a dress or jacket. Therefore, it is preferable to sew models with a central seam on the back, and redistribute the width of the darts. If the deflection along this seam is 1 cm, then the side darts can be reduced by 0.5-0.7 cm each. And I prefer to sew a zipper, when the style allows it, into the central seam of the back. If the dress model with a skirt is “half-sun”, then the zipper is sewn into the side seam.

Calculations for a base pattern of sizes 50-58.

The allowance for a loose fit to the chest girth, for a dress and blouse, even a fitted silhouette, is better to make 7-8 cm, for a semi-fitted one and for a jacket - 9 -10 cm

Calculation of measurements for size 50.

OT – 78 or OT – 84

(OG + 8) : 2 = 108: 2 = 54: 2 = 27

For the front pattern, add 0.5, for the back pattern, subtract 0.5 cm

OG along the front chest line – 27.5

back exhaust gas – 26.5

Calculation of dart sizes.

From = 78 cm + 4 = 82: 2 = 41

From the calculated measurement of half the waist with allowance, subtract the resulting value of half the waist circumference with allowance: 54 – 41 = 13: 4 = 3.2 – for an hourglass silhouette figure.

With OT = 84, the size of the darts is: 84 + 4 = 88: 2 = 44

54 – 44 = 10 cm: 4 = 2.5 cm – for an “apple” silhouette figure.

Calculation of hip line size.

(OB + 4) : 2 = 104 + 4 = 108: 2 = 54

For a figure with such measurements, the points of the front chest line and the hip line are located on the same reference line.

If OB = 110 cm, then after calculating: (110 + 4 = 114) : 2 = 57, the difference between half the chest circumference with allowances and half the hip circumference with allowances would be 3 cm.

57 – 54 = 3: 2 = +1.5 cm - this value must be set aside from the reference line on the front and back pattern along the hip line. For the front - left, for the back - right.

Calculation of measurements for a size 52 pattern.

OG = (104 + 8) : 2 = 112: 2 = 56: 2 = 28

0.5 = 28.5 – front, - 0.5 = 27.5 – back

OT = (92 + 4) : 2 = 48

Darts = 56 – 48 = 8: 4 = 2 cm – each dart

OB = (112 + 4) : 2 = 116: 2 = 58

58 – 56 = 2 cm: 2 – + 1 cm along the hip line from the reference line.

Calculation of measurements for size 54.

OG = (108 + 8) : 2 = 116: 2 = 58: 2 = 29

Front exhaust = 29 + 0.7 = 29.7

Back OG = 29 – 0.7 = 28.3

From = (94 + 4) : 2 = 98: 2 = 49

Darts = 58 – 49 = 11: 4 = 2.7

OB = (116 + 4) : 2 = 120: 2 = 60 – 58 = 2: 2 = +1 cm from the reference lines along the hip line

Calculation of measurements for size 58.

OG = (116 + 8) : 2 = 124: 2 = 62: 2 = 31

Front exhaust = 31 + 1 = 32

OG back 31 – 1 = 30

OT = (98 + 4) = 2 = 102: 2 = 51

62 - 51 = 11: 4 = 2.7 cm – darts

OB = (122 + 4) : 2 = 126: 2 = 63

63 – 62 = 1 cm: 2 = + 0.5 cm from the reference line point on the hip line.

In order to create a pattern for the basis of a dress with a straight silhouette, draw lines parallel to the middle of the front and back, from a point on the hip line, to the required length of the dress.

Using such a pattern, if it is built accurately and checked, you can model and sew any of the models

For a dress with a trapezoidal silhouette, continue the reference line to the required length and place the inclination point of the side seam at a distance of 12-22 cm to the left of it - for the front half of the pattern. For the back pattern, respectively, to the right. This distance can be increased to 25 cm, but no more, especially if the length of the dress is knee-length. The side seams will simply “fold” inward, and the dress will look sloppy.

If you want a more flared dress, then choose a model with an underbust and a half-sun or bias-cut A-line hem. You can choose a dress model with reliefs - each detail changes along the hemline to the required width.

Today we will learn how to model two of them: a dress and a jacket:

Dress pattern

Let's take a close look at the photo of the dress we are going to make a pattern for. Seam under the bust, with 7/8 sleeves and a wide skirt that gathers at the junction with the bodice. The bottom of the sleeve is gathered with a drawstring with elastic or braid. The neckline is widened, round, and finished with bias tape. Bust dart from the side seam under the armhole. The skirt has processed pockets - the entrance to the pockets can be made in the side seam, or “in the frame”. Because The dress is loose - no clasp required. The fabric for sewing is linen, although if desired, you can also use wool crepe and mixed fabrics for the cold season.

To simulate the model we needIt can be easily generated on our website according to your own individual measurements. It's very easy and fast, just enter your measurements into the form, online will do the rest for you. You can print it on any printer, even at home, or save it to a flash card and print it at a copy center. Technological increases in freedom of fit are already included in the design and have the minimum required values. We will adjust the degree of fit of our model a little later in the modeling process by retracting the side seams. So here's what we got.

Print on any printer and cut out. We will ignore the darts at the waist. Next we model on paper.

1 step. Straighten the side seams, moving them slightly to the side for more volume at the waist and even higher, under the armhole. Extend future pattern dresses, according to the sketch or at your request.

Step 2. Raise your waistline 5 cm up. Translate chest dart in the side seam under the armhole.

Step 3. Widen and deepen the neck line. Cut off the bodice from the skirt using the back and front pattern pieces, then modeling will take place on the skirt pieces.

Step 4 On the details of the skirt pattern, mark longitudinal lines along which to cut and move the parts apart to increase the volume of the skirt. On the front part of the skirt panel we will mark the location of the pocket and the pattern of the burlap itself. The entrance to the pocket is located in the side seam and starts 12 cm down from the line where the skirt joins the bodice part, see fig.

Step 5 Sleeve modeling. Expand the sleeve at the bottom to the width of the sleeve under the armhole, cut along the middle, spread according to the diagram so that the pattern is trapezoidal (the sleeve at the bottom is wider than under the armhole). Adjust the bottom line with a slightly curved curve. The bottom of the sleeves in the dress is gathered with an elastic band.

The dress pattern is ready. If you sew it, brag on ours)

Jacket pattern

Jacket without lining, made of thick fabric such as loden, boiled knitwear or any other similar one with non-fraying cuts. One-piece sleeve, apache collar, no fastener, patch pockets with flaps on the shelf.

For modeling we will use, which you can also generate using our website. The generator automatically includes allowances for loose fit.

1 step. To begin with, we will draw auxiliary straight lines from the highest points of the front and back neck through points lying 2 cm above the end points of the shoulder, with a length equal to the sleeve length + shoulder length. Mark the deepening of the armholes by 4-5 cm with transverse marks. see fig.

Step 2. From the points that raise the shoulder line, draw inclined lines of the upper sections of the sleeve. see fig. The width of the sleeve at the bottom is equal to the circumference of the wrist + the increase in freedom (7-10 cm) Design the lower sections of the sleeves, turning into the side seams, taking into account the deepening points of the armhole, according to the drawing.

Step 3. Let's widen and deepen the neck. Draw the side line parallel to the center line of the shelf at a distance of 6 cm.

Step 4 Construction of an apache collar.

Draw an auxiliary straight line through the highest point and the middle point (lying at the intersection of the midline of the front and the neckline), extend it upward and lay a segment on it equal to the length of the back neckline. Draw this segment with a curved line. This is the line where the collar is sewn into the back neckline. The floor is at a right angle to it, to the right, set aside a collar width of 8-9 cm and connect it with a patterned convex-concave line, see figure, to the point limiting the apache collar. According to the sketch/photo of the model, the end of the collar lies at the level of the depth of the armhole, and its width is approximately 20-25 cm. For the most accurate determination, we recommend making a model from inexpensive fabric.

Step 5 Construction of a patch pocket.

The pattern of the original jacket is ready. Good luck with your sewing! Be beautiful!