How to make a voluminous pocket from fabric. The pocket is a briefcase with rounded corners at the bottom. How to sew a voluminous patch pocket with a zipper step by step

Girls, everyone have a nice day!)))) I made the promised MK in my pocket-briefcase. My camera is working worse and worse, it’s time to retire it, but I think the essence will be clear even with not very high-quality photos. The fabric is all stained - I decided to recycle a piece for tildes, which I unsuccessfully managed to tint with tea. Don't let the goodness go to waste.))))
Well, now read.)))

We will need a pocket template made of whatman paper or cardboard. We start by measuring the length of three sides of the pocket, placing a centimeter on the edge. I got 37 cm.
We cut it. On the lining we outline the outline of the pocket and add allowances. There is no allowance needed for the top edge of the pocket. We also make sure to draw them. In general, it must be said that in these pockets the accuracy of the allowances is very great importance. Therefore, I made myself a template from cardboard for allowances 1 cm wide. Now everything should match down to a millimeter.
We also outline the pocket on the main fabric, add a hem allowance along the top (I have 3 cm). On the sides we draw the same allowances as on the lining.
Cut out the top and lining. We cut the side of the pocket: it is a rectangle. Its length is equal to the perimeter of three sides of the pocket + 2 allowance widths; width - 2 pocket side widths + 2 allowance widths. My pocket perimeter is 37 cm + 2 cm allowance, the total length of the rectangle is 39 cm. I want to make the side of the pocket 2.5 cm wide, which means the width of the rectangle will be 2.5 cm x 2 plus 2 cm. allowances. Total 7 cm. The rectangle turned out to be 39x7 cm.
Fold the rectangle lengthwise, face inward, and sew short cuts exactly to the width of the seam allowance. Turn it inside out, straighten it and iron it.
We apply our rectangle to the front side of the pocket, aligning the short side with the top of the pocket (not the allowance, but the pocket itself) and aligning the cuts.
And we start pinning around the perimeter. In the roundings at the corners, cut the sidewall allowances for a better fit.
Fold the hem allowance over the side and fold the centimeter up, as in the photo.
Place the lining on top of everything, wrong side up, and pin in several places.
Sew through all layers, strictly observing the width of the allowances.
Cut the allowances by half a centimeter and cut at the fillets. Turn inside through pocket hem allowance and press. Get this result. View from the inside.
And from the face.
Sew off the allowance for the hem of the pocket, I do not take the sides, only the middle part of the pocket.
Fold the side panel to the wrong side and stitch to the edge at a distance of 1 mm.
From the face it will look like this.
And this is from the inside out. Everything is clean and tidy. You can sew the pocket in place.
On the item, we outline the place where the pocket will be sewn on according to the template. Using transverse strokes we mark the place of the beginning and end of the line.
And we pin the side panel, strictly aligning the edge with the stitching line.
If you strictly observed the width of the allowances, then everything should match up to a millimeter. It coincided with me.))))
Stitch to the edge at a distance of 1 mm. from the edge.
In the corner we write more slowly so that the line does not run away.
Straighten the side panel, placing it under the middle part of the pocket, and iron it.
We get such a beautiful pocket. At this stage, you can make tacks in the corners through all the layers, but I don’t like them and therefore don’t do them, it’s more convenient to use the pocket. Or you can secure the corners by installing holnitens.
Now we sew the valve. Reinforce the upper part with interlining or dubbing, place it face to face with the unreinforced lower part and draw the outline of the flap using our pocket template. The same rounding on the pocket and flap will look harmonious, and the width will thus be the same.
Sew along the outline and trim the seam allowances. Turn it inside out, straighten it and iron it. Trim the open cut until it is even.
Now bend the flap along the stitching line and secure the edge with pins along the fold so that the flap can be unfolded for further work on it. Why is this necessary? Do you see how the slices have shifted relative to each other? If you don’t bend it this way, then due to this displacement the valve will protrude outward. At this stage, you can sew the loops if the pocket will be closed with buttons.
Unfold the flap, cut off the excess along the pins, leaving only 1-1.5 cm and pin, aligning the cut with the entrance to the pocket.
Stitch and trim the seam allowance to 3mm.
Turn the valve to correct position. iron and topstitch at a distance of 5 mm. from the edge. Don't forget the bartacks at the beginning and end of the stitching. The pocket is ready. You can put buttons or sew on buttons.
If you turn the pocket inside out, you will see that there is not a single open cut, everything is clean and neat.
We admire the finished result!
Good luck to everyone and warm, roomy and neat pockets!))))

Hello, my Reader!

In Joint Sewing No. 10 “We sew backpacks for schoolchildren and students!” In all three versions of backpacks, bulky patch pockets are sewn on the front wall of the backpack.

Despite the fact that even a beginner can handle the sequence of sewing together the parts of backpacks according to the finished description, the lack of experience and skills in processing some knots needs to be compensated for with more precise tips and recommendations.
These are exactly those “little things” that are usually not talked about in videos or master classes, since usually the main goal is to show and tell technological sequence stitching.
These “little things” are developed with experience, by altering one knot several times, and provided that the craftswoman knows how to quickly draw conclusions and look for new solutions to the problem.
I want to save your nerves, time and give the opportunity to get maximum pleasure from the process of sewing backpacks and bags for your loved ones.

IN Lately Varieties of voluminous patch pockets have become popular among manufacturers of bags and backpacks and bag makers. I was no exception.
There are several reasons for this:
- no need to cut the wall parts and think about how to process the cuts so that it is neat, so as not to stretch the frame;
— you don’t have to select the fabric for the hem according to tone;
— mortise pockets are not always appropriate for a model or a certain fabric, and sometimes some additional detail is asked to come to the fore;
— a mortise pocket with a zipper and a volume pocket differ in design and are used differently.
The technology for processing different pockets has its own characteristics, and this variety also has them.
Assembling the pocket itself is not very difficult, but its neat, symmetrical stitching to the front wall initially causes certain difficulties for many craftsmen.

1. When assembling a pocket, use the technology that creates as few bulges as possible along the edge of the stitching of the pocket to the main part of the product. The edge of the pocket that is sewn on should be as thin as possible.
2. Mark the shape of the pocket on the front wall with washable ink, chalk or pencil.
3. Mark the center, at least the top and bottom edges, and even better, have them on all sides. The same marks should be on the prepared pocket. This will help prevent the workpiece from stretching or bending. As you sew on each side, you will see where your marks should meet.
4. Start stitching to the left of the center of the top edge a couple of centimeters. Once you reach the center of the bottom edge, finish stitching with a tack and return to the top edge, stitching the other side of the pocket.
5. When sewing the pocket, sew a stitch, stepping back from the edge by 1-2 mm.

Remember the main thing! Without experience and practice there will be no experience and skills. By dreaming and putting it off for later, by putting it in a piggy bank and not using what you have accumulated, you will not learn how to sew bags and backpacks. All this will remain in dreams and unfulfilled desires, which will tear your creative soul apart with regret and guilt.

How much more you will receive when you sew with your own hands a finished product with a piece of your soul.
You will be proud to wear it yourself or give it to a loved one.
Even with crooked stitches, a slightly lopsided pocket, your backpack will give you joy, delight from the fact that you COULD overcome doubts. We took it and sewed it ourselves!

Join us and sew one of three backpacks in the joint sewing project “We sew backpacks for schoolchildren and students!”

Sincerely, Vilena Malaya.

I recently had the opportunity to sew a men's parka. Every self-respecting parka has many pockets in order to store useful little things and style in them.

Very good at men's jackets There are voluminous pockets or, as they are also called,

Briefcase pockets.

A good person gets a jacket, and we get a master class with pictures. Planned and done.

First, determine what size and shape of pockets you need. And cutting them out couldn’t be easier. By the way, briefcases can also be different, but we will sew the simplest option of all.

There are only two parts: the pocket itself and a long strip on the side of the pocket.
My pocket measures 18 * 21 cm when finished, plus a 1 cm seam allowance and a 3 cm full facing.

The width of the side stripe is 6 cm (including allowances), and the length must be measured according to your pocket.

Glue the upper part of the one-piece pocket facing with light non-woven fabric.

Observe the direction of the threads: the lobe runs along the length of the side and along the burlap of the pocket.

Pin the side strip along the edge of the pocket. It is convenient to mark the middle of the parts and start chopping from the center from the bottom.

if there are rounded corners, then make several cuts along the allowances, and if the pocket has right angles, then make one cut.
Sew parts on a machine.

It is always useful to iron the seams before ironing them “on the edge”.

There was a free facing seam allowance at the pocket. Now is the time to fold the pocket and side face to face and fold the facing over them. Then stitch the facing and turn the pocket inside out.

All free cuts should be processed with overcast stitches so that unexpected threads inside the finished pocket do not bother the owner of the jacket.

Stitch along the top edge of the pocket, if necessary.

Now you need to outline the clear shape of the pocket. First of all, direct the sides inwards and press the seams edgewise, iron the corners of the pocket. If necessary, sweep the edge of the pocket before the WTO and stitching.
Stitching around the perimeter helps maintain a crisp pocket shape.

Fold and iron the side strip seam allowance. This is what we will sew to the jacket.

Make markings on the product. This must be done carefully according to the shape of the top of the pocket.

Pin the prepared pocket along the markings. Take your time, carefully aligning the sides. There should be no distortions.

This is a fashionable sports version of the patch pocket. Regular patch pockets can easily be converted into briefcase pockets. For rounded pockets, a similar effect is achieved by using two strips corresponding to the shape of the pocket, and for rectangular pockets, by using one whole piece for the folds or one rectangular strip of fabric.

Rounded briefcase pocket

On the paper pocket pattern, draw a placket line along the outer edge of the pocket and at a distance of approx. 4 cm from it (1). Remove the bar from the pocket piece as a separate piece. Cut out the pocket and placket from fabric with seam allowances along all cuts: cut out the pocket once, and cut out the placket twice.

Overcast the allowance along the top edge of the pocket and each placket, iron it inside out and topstitch. Overcast the allowance along the outer edge of one strip and iron it to the wrong side. Place the planks face to face and stitch the internal edges. Sew seam allowances together (2).

Pin the strip with the raw outer edge to the pocket face to face. Sew it in. Cut the seam allowances close to the stitching, and notch in the rounded areas (3). Sweep the bar onto the wrong side. Iron the edge and topstitch. If desired, the edge can be stitched additionally at a greater distance without catching the bar with the ironed outer edge.

Pin the pocket to the product and stitch only the bottom strip into the edge. If desired, the bottom bar can be stitched additionally at a greater distance. Stitch the bottom strip on each side of the top edge along the inner seam for a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to a length of approx. 3 cm exactly into the seam (4).

Rectangular satchel pocket with one-piece pleat detail

The design of the pattern for this pocket is a little more complicated.

Transfer the main pocket pattern onto a large sheet of paper. The side edges and bottom edge form the outer fold line of the fold. At equal distances that correspond to the desired width of the fold, draw two lines from the bottom and side edges of the pocket. The middle is the line of the inner fold of the fold.

Connect the vertices of the corners with a dotted line. Through the top of the inner corner at right angles to the dotted line, draw a line intersecting the line of the inner fold of the fold at two points. From these intersection points, draw straight lines parallel to the dotted line until they intersect with the outer (third) line (5). Cut out the corners along the drawn solid lines. The pattern is ready.

Cut out the pocket with seam allowances along all edges. Sweep all cuts. Iron the seam allowance along the top edge of the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. Bring seam allowances along the side and bottom edges to the wrong side. Iron (6).

Then press the folds of the folds. To do this, first turn the side and bottom edges right side out along the lines of the inner folds of the folds front side to the front side. Iron the folds. Then press the folds to the wrong side along the lines of the outer folds (7).

To sew the corners of the pocket, fold the folds again. Fold the pocket, aligning one side edge and then the other with the bottom edge (8). Sew the corners along the marked seam lines. Cut the top of each corner close to the line (8a). Lay out the seam allowances. Place the pocket folds again along the fold lines. Stitch the outer fold of the fold to the edge. Then pin the pocket to the garment and stitch the bottom of the fold into the edge. From the top edge, stitch the pocket along the line of the inner fold of the fold for a length of approx. 3 cm. Then stitch the upper edges of the fold to a length of approx. 8 cm (9).

Briefcase pocket with stitched straight detail for folds

This is the easiest way to make a briefcase pocket from a regular rounded or rectangular pocket. For a pleated piece, you will need a rectangular strip of fabric with a width equal to twice the desired pleat width and a length equal to the length of the side edges of the pocket plus the length of the bottom edge of the pocket. Cut out the pocket and part for the folds with seam allowances 1 cm wide along all cuts.

Transfer the pocket alignment lines to the right side of the fabric using running stitches or draw these lines on the right side of the fabric using a “magic” tailor’s chalk.

How to sew a briefcase pocket

Rectangular briefcase pocket

On the part for the folds, iron the allowance of one longitudinal section to the wrong side. Pin the other longitudinal cut of the pleat piece to the pocket from the top cut along one side cut, right side to right side. Sew the part for the folds to the width of the seam allowance (1 cm), not reaching 1 cm from the bottom edge of the pocket. At the beginning and at the end of the seam, perform a bartack. Cut the seam allowance of the pleat piece close to the last stitch of the stitching (1).

Pin the piece for the folds from the notch to the bottom edge of the pocket and stitch it, starting the stitch exactly at the last stitch of the side seam and finishing it, not reaching 1 cm from the corner. At the beginning and at the end of the seam, perform a bartack. Cut the seam allowance of the pleat piece close to the last stitch of the stitching (2). Then stitch the part for the folds from the corner to the other side edge of the pocket.

Turn the part for the folds right side out. Press the seam allowances onto the pocket. Sew the pleat piece along the stitching seams close to the seams. Fold in the allowance along the top edge of the pocket and the details for the folds. Then iron the one-piece facing along the entrance to the pocket to the wrong side and topstitch. (3).

Pin the part for the folds to the product along the alignment lines, placing it in the folds at the corners (4). Sew the side and bottom edges of the folding piece into the edge. Pin the edges of the pocket and the edges of the pleat piece (5). Iron it. Sew the upper corners of the pocket in the form of triangles (6), grabbing the ends of the parts for the folds.

Rounded briefcase pocket

Iron the seam allowance along the top edge of the pocket inside out, turn it under and topstitch. On a strip of fabric (strap), iron the allowance of one longitudinal section on the wrong side. Pin the other longitudinal section of the plank to the pocket along the side and bottom sections face to face. Tuck short sections of the strap at the top edge of the pocket. Sew the placket to the pocket. Cut seam allowances close to the stitching, and notch in the rounded areas (7).

Turn the bar inside out. Baste the edges and iron them (8). If desired, stitch the bar to the edge. Pin the edges of the strip to the product along the alignment lines and stitch into the edge (9). Pin the edges of the pocket and the trim. Iron. Stitch the side edges of the pocket from the top edge to the edge for a length of approx. 1 cm.

So I’m ready to create a master class! When I cut a new bag, the question always arises of what type of pockets to make. The internal ones are more and less clear, but there are a great variety of external, decorative ones. Today I will show you how to sew a voluminous briefcase pocket.
I apologize in advance for the quality of the photos - it’s been cloudy for 2 weeks now and it’s simply impossible to take photos in natural light (((

Well, let's begin!

Cut out the paper flap for the pocket in life size, always taking into account the increase for stitching and topstitching - I have 1.5 cm.

We make a pattern of our future pocket on paper (checkered paper is convenient for me). Take paper of any size (you can double notebook sheet). Mark the middle of the pocket on paper, then draw 2 parallel lines at a distance of the planned width of the fold. My fold will be 1.5 cm.

Draw an increase on top for the hem of the pocket, approximately 1.5-2.5 cm.

We apply the flap and outline the width of the pocket. We make an increase from the side edge line, the amount depends on how deep the pocket you want. We draw and cut off the excess - I also have an increase of 1.5 cm.

We bend the top and side increases, apply a flap and see how long we want the pocket, draw and cut off the excess.

Cut out corners equal to the depth of the pocket. During the sewing process, this will help us lay out the pocket without any problems. I have 1.5*1.5 cm. The finished pattern looks like this:

We cut out the valve. If the fabric is loose or stretches, glue it with non-woven fabric. We connect the parts as in the picture. We make notches on the fillets.