Traveling along the golden ring of Russia by car. Golden Ring of Russia: historical tourist route

Travel report on the Golden Ring of Russia. A trip to the original Russian cities: monasteries, Kremlins, fortresses, the Volga River and photographs.

Foreword

Our trip, scheduled for July 19, had to be postponed at the last moment due to a completely non-July weather forecast. As it turned out, not in vain. In these days, the tops of summer, not a single Moscow airport accepted planes, sending them to Nizhny Novgorod. The elements did not rage for long, after a few days the weather improved, and on July 26 we started along the planned route along the Golden Ring of Russia. There is general background information, but we will share our own experience, reviews and, of course, photos.

Start: Aprelevka.
Alexandrov: 175 km, 2.5 hours.
Yuryev-Polsky: 261 km, 1 hour.
Bogolyubovo: 347 km, 1 hour.
Suzdal: 396 km, 0.5 hours.
Ivanovo: 469 km, 1 hour.
Reach: 552 km, 1 hour.
Ferry Krasnoe-on-Volga: 591 km, 1 hour.
Kostroma: 630 km, 0.5 hours.
Yaroslavl: 703 km, 1 hour.
Tutaev: 760 km, 1.5 hours.
Village Novoe (round trip): 20 km.
Myshkin: 891 km, 1.5 hours.
Uglich: 932 km, 0.5 hours.
Borisoglebsk: 1003 km, 1 hour.
Rostov: 1021 km, 20 minutes.
Moscow: 1244 km. Finish.

Aleksandrovsk

The first day.

Early Sunday morning we left Aprelevka. Course to the Yaroslavl highway. But here's the bad luck - they forgot paper maps (after all, it's unusual without them) and even little things, so it was decided to make a small technical stop at a Moscow apartment. It did not delay us much, and at 8:00 we started fully equipped.

Yaroslavka at the exit from Moscow was pretty torn up, and even on Sunday morning we were not going fast. The construction is encouraging - in a couple of years, it will probably be good. Pole's sleepy daughter is slowly humming that "again we are being taken somewhere, and our route is unclear ...". I had to digress from the contemplation of the surroundings and tell that the route is still clear, and the first point is the city of Alexandrov, the temporary capital of Tsar Ivan the Terrible.

I heard about the Terrible Field, I saw a picture of Repin, I watched a film about Ivan Vasilyevich, so I stopped appearing and got ready to listen. In the stories, the rest of the journey flew by quickly, and at 9:50 we parked near the Alexander Kremlin.

The museum (and hence the box office) of Alexandrovskaya Sloboda opened at 10:00, and we decided to go to the Church of the Holy Trinity, where the Sunday service was just ending.

At the beginning of 11 o'clock we set off on a journey through the museum complex of Aleksandrovskaya Sloboda, which is a number of diverse museums on the territory of the Kremlin.

And the first of them is the dungeons of Ivan the Terrible. The best way exploring the dungeon when traveling with a child is a treasure hunt, and in this case, the famous library of Ivan the Terrible, which, according to one of the legends, is hidden just in the settlement. Inspired by the search, we look at each place. The library was not found, but they cheered up and got carried away with the inspection.

The next museum of life. We quickly scan the exposition and invite the child to find griffins, a lyre and two cylinders, after which we leisurely inspect the museum. Polya reports from time to time about another find - a kind of quest. Further, the peasant hut - very relevant - we just recently discussed the arrangement of the peasant hut with Polya: a red corner, a children's corner, a woman's kut, and so on. At the end - the king's chambers with a dungeon, a refectory, a torture chamber and other necessary attributes of the ruler's life.

At 12:00, after eating ice cream, we start towards Yuryev-Polsky. It’s not far to go, and in an hour, having admired the surrounding hills and fields, we stop by Yuryev-Polsky.

The city is not as well-groomed as Alexandrov. After a short lunch, we set off to see the Kremlin and Zemlyanoy Val.

There are very few people, walking around the Kremlin is a pleasure. On a narrow staircase you can climb the bell tower, and then on the Zemlyanoy Val.

Bogolyubovo

At 15:00 we leave towards Vladimir. The city of Vladimir itself is not included in our plans - we have been there for a long time not so long ago, but we have never been to Bogolyubovo. At 16:00 we were at the monastery.

The monastery is active, the evening service is in full swing in the church. Well, we are going to the place of death of Andrei Bogolyubsky and to the museum.

We are the only visitors here. An employee of the museum, out of the kindness of her soul, shows us the exposition and tells old legends. Another item on the program for today is the Church of the Intercession on the Nerl. There is no access by car to it, you need to walk through the Bogolyubovsky meadow for about 2 km.

It is evening, the heat is slowly giving way to coolness. A half-hour walk along a paved path through a flood meadow, and we are near the confluence of the Klyazma and the Nerl, where a wonderful church stands like a white candle.

After looking into the temple and taking a few photos, we come back and go to look for an overnight stay. We cross the railway tracks near the village of Lemeshevo and further into the fields. We pass a long wide sandy beach.

Another 100 meters, and here it is, a great place, right on the banks of the Klyazma (parking coordinates N56.11.553, E040.34.192).

The time is almost 19:00, the sun has not set yet. First of all, swim, and then a well-deserved dinner and rest.

Second day.

I woke up at 7:00 am completely asleep. Beautiful morning, and swimming gave vigor and Have a good mood. We have breakfast, get ready and leave at 9:20. Course to Suzdal.

Half an hour later we are already parked near the malls.

It's still sunny, but ominous black clouds are already roaming the horizon. So we decide first to take a walk along the earthen rampart towards the Kamenka River.

Then we look at the open-air museum of wooden architecture, and then how lucky.

On the way we taste mead - delicious! The Museum of Wooden Architecture resembles Kostroma and Novgorod, probably they are all tailored in the same way. Peasant huts from poor to prosperous, a merchant's house, windmills, wooden churches - everywhere you can look and take a closer look.

I was pleased with the exposition of cereal fields, useful for a city dweller - plots sown with wheat, oats, rye and other crops. Everything is signed for those who do not know.

Meanwhile, the clouds on the horizon thickened, the wind blew, it began to rumble. We realized that it was time to go somewhere under the roof. They took their legs in their hands and ran towards the Suzdal Kremlin. And just in time. As soon as we reached the museum, a real hurricane broke out: thunder, lightning, rain like a bucket. But we are already warm and comfortable, more precisely, in the museum.

This time along with the tickets we bought children's quest by the museum. In each hall of the Kremlin, according to the guide, you need to find something interesting, guess, solve puzzles, find differences with the picture. At the end is a crossword puzzle. An hour and a half flew by unnoticed, and then the rain stopped. Complementing the visit to the Kremlin with a hearty lunch, we moved along the shopping malls to the red walls of the Spaso-Yefimovsky Monastery.

We walked around it, admired the river Kamenka and the white-stone monastery on the opposite bank from the high bank.

Ivanovo

At 15:30 we left in the direction of Ivanovo - an hour's journey and we enter the city of brides. A stop was not planned here, so we admire the city from the car window and drive on. Today Ples on the Volga is waiting for us, it's still an hour away.

Having settled at 18 o'clock in the hotel, we set off to wander along the evening Ples. We make a promenade along the Volga embankment, take pictures with Sofia Kuvshinnikova (Levitan's girlfriend, immortalized in bronze), buy smoked fish and ice cream and climb first one hill, and then the second, already to the church, which served as a prototype for the painting "Above Eternal Peace".

A tightly built wooden staircase with railings, arches and benches leads to Levitanovsky Hill. At the top, we are met by a bronze Levitan, pensively looking at the sunset blazing over the Volga. The setting sun, breaking out of the clouds, paints everything around in red. What a beauty!

I don’t want to leave, but my daughter quickly brings us back to reality - it’s time to go home. We got to the hotel already without legs. For dinner, we eat smoked fish, washed down with Suzdal mead, and go to sleep! ...

Plyos

Day three.

Got up at 8:00. A hearty breakfast at the hotel, and on the way. On the way, we stopped by an art shop and supported the local levitans by buying a small picture. A bronze cat was also found here, sitting on a stone and looking at the Volga. They say that there really was a cat that every evening sat on this stone and saw off the sun, and the owner immortalized her image.

In general, there are a lot of sculptures in Plyos, almost in every second courtyard - whatever you say, but the artists here clearly feel at home. But no matter how good it is in Plyos, it's time for us. 20 km from this city, on the opposite bank of the Volga, there is a town with the beautiful name Krasnoe-on-Volga. We decide to go there - and the name is beautiful, and how not to ride a ferry across the Volga.

We arrive at the ferry at 10:45 and are 15 minutes late. Almost an hour until the next ferry. I have to walk and rinse my legs in the Volga. Time flies quickly, and now we are already sailing along the great Russian river.

Of the sights in Krasnoye, on the Volga, there is a hipped church, one of the few remaining in Russia, and silver production.

We visited both, were very satisfied and went towards Kostroma.

Half an hour later they were there. We spent the whole day in Kostroma 2 years ago, so we decided to limit ourselves to lunch and a short walk around the city center.

Over the past two years, Kostroma has been transformed into better side, has become more well-groomed or something, there are a lot of people and children on the streets

At 15:30 we leave towards Yaroslavl-Rybinsk, discussing where it is better to spend the night in Rybinsk. But our plans are not destined to come true - we get stuck in traffic jams on the ring road of Yaroslavl. When we finally break out of the tenacious embrace of Yaroslavl, we understand that it no longer makes sense for us to go to Rybinsk. We decide to spend the night near Tutaev, and at the same time once again visit the wonderful Tutaev Church of the Resurrection.

I think this is one of the most beautiful temples I have ever visited.

The ferry to the Romanov side of Tutaev departs at 18:30.

10 minutes, and we are on the Romanov side, we start to spend the night two years ago near the village of Novoe - a pine forest on the banks of the Volga and sandy beaches. At the beginning of the eighth we are in place. We swim in the Volga, have dinner and admire the barges and white ships passing by.

Myshkin, Uglich, Rostov the Great

Day four.

Porcini mushrooms were found near our parking lot, so Papa Andrei got up early the next day and went mushroom hunting. While he was busy in the tent, my dream flew off as if it had never happened. Turning around for order for half an hour, I got up, especially since we were going to catch the 9-hour ferry to the Borisoglebsk side of Tutaev.

After a quick swim and breakfast, we leave. Time 8:30. Later they discovered that they had forgotten Polina's sandals in the parking lot. So, we'll be back... We got on the ferry 5 minutes before departure. Luck is on our side today.

10 minutes of crossing, and we start towards Myshkin. One short stop along the way - boys to the left, girls to the right. We return with handfuls full of mushrooms and continue our way to the Myshkinsky ferry. Our experience of ferry crossings says that the ferry should be at 10:30 - we are speeding up. Luck is with us again - we fly on the ferry a minute before departure. At 10:40 we are already in Myshkino.

First on a visit to the mice, then to the museum of antiquity. Going around the pond, we get stuck in the weaving room. The daughter cannot be torn away from the loom and the lovely weaver, who happily showed and told all the wisdom of the weaving craft. At the end, we walked along the embankment, bought a mouse and smoked fish, and at half past twelve we left for Uglich.

Half an hour later they were there. We set off to inspect the Church of Dmitry on the Blood, the princely chambers and the Spaso-Epiphany Cathedral out of the corner of our eye.

Polya, a lover of sentimental stories, listened with her mouth open and took a picture with the bronze prince with pleasure. After a short lunch we leave Uglich. We are heading for Rostov the Great.

The time is 15:00, it’s decent to go, and the Kremlin, as it seemed to us, works until 17:00. Therefore, when at 16:00 the majestic walls of the Borisoglebsky Monastery appeared before our eyes, we decided to make a stop.

The walls are magnificent, but restoration is in full swing inside. So we crossed the monastery from the western gate to the eastern, returned to the car along the outer walls and drove to Rostov.

After 15 minutes, we park near the Rostov Kremlin - well, at least we’ll go to the church. And luck again: the Kremlin is open until 18:00, they let you in until 17:00, we made it.

And we still have an hour to go. Fields perked up, because it was here that a wonderful film about Ivan Vasilyevich was shot.

And most importantly, we are no longer in a hurry - we have only the road home ahead of us.

So we sat by the pond, climbed the gallery, walked around the monastery garden and even tasted monastery apples from a special basket.

At 18:00 they moved to Moscow. In 4 days we traveled 1244 km, visited 12 cities, rode ferries across the Volga 4 times, ate a mountain of ice cream, swam in the Volga and Klyazma, spent the night in a tent twice and once in a hotel, visited churches, monasteries and museums for a year forward.

The traditional route through 8 "golden" cities is designed for 7-14 days and includes Sergiev Posad, Pereslavl-Zalessky, Rostov the Great, Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Ivanovo, Suzdal and Vladimir.

Traveling along the Golden Ring of Russia is a traditional choice for those who have limited time for rest or who are just mastering tourism “at the wheel”. But despite the short, by the standards of avid autotourists, route, there will be many impressions. After all, you have to visit the ancient and most beautiful cities of Russia, in each of which cultural monuments of Ancient Russia have been preserved.

The Golden Ring is formed by eight cities: Sergiev Posad, Pereslavl-Zalessky, Rostov the Great, Yaroslavl, Kostroma, Ivanovo, Suzdal and Vladimir. To appreciate the sights of each of them without fuss and haste, it will take about 14 days. If the vacation is short, you can do it in 7 days. But in this case, you will have to take less than one day to see the sights of each city. The starting point of the route will be Moscow.

You don't need to stock up on fuel. The cost of gasoline on the entire route is equal to capital prices, but it is better to refuel your car at proven gas stations, for example, the company "".

Check the technical condition of the car in advance. In the small towns of the Golden Ring, of course, you will find auto repair shops. But there is a possibility that their workers may not be able to cope with complex repairs.

The architectural ensemble of the Trinity-Sergius Lavra. Sergiev Posad Photo: Shutterstock

The first point of the route: Sergiev Posad

From Belokamennaya we go to Sergiev Posad. Distance - 75 kilometers, estimated travel time - 1 hour 12 minutes. But this is a calculation of traffic without the traditional congestion in the Moscow region. Tourists are waiting for a road with a good surface in several lanes.

Sights of Sergiev Posad

The most popular attraction of Sergiev Posad is the Trinity-Sergius Lavra - the largest Orthodox monastery in Russia. It is worth seeing the Chernihiv temple, under which there is a cave church built in 1851.

There are many interesting sights around Sergiev Posad. For example, the famous Abramtsevo estate is located 15 kilometers away. 14 kilometers from the city, not far from the village of Vzglyadnevo, there is a Gremyachiy waterfall, beating from a height of 25 meters. It is believed that its water has medicinal properties. Its temperature does not change all year round and even in frosts it is 6 degrees above zero. But you can drive to the waterfall only in the dry season. After the rains, the road becomes bad.

Tourists may also be interested in the Desert of the Holy Spirit Paraclete, located 6 kilometers from the Lavra. On the territory of the desert, several ancient wooden monastic cells, a stone temple and a bell tower of the late 19th century have been preserved. And be sure to visit the village of Deulino, where in 1618 an armistice agreement was signed between Russia and Poland.

Service Sergiev Posad

There are more than 20 hotels in Sergiev Posad, private and monastic. The average cost of a room is 1,800 rubles. Shops and cafes - for every taste and wealth.

Pereslavl-Zalessky. Nikolsky Women's Monastery Photo: Shutterstock

The second point of the route: Pereslavl-Zalessky

From Sergiev Posad, the path lies to the second city of the Golden Ring - Pereslavl-Zalessky. The distance is 75 kilometers. The GPS navigator will be mistaken if it assumes that you will cover the path in 1 hour and 5 minutes. And all because of the bad roads surrounding Pereslavl-Zalessky. For example, the opinion of autotourist Nikita Tyurin is as follows: “A patch on a patch and a patch drives. The ring road of Pereslavl-Zalessky is a quiet horror: the rutting is so great that it seems that the car will drive like on a railroad if you let go of the steering wheel.”

Sights of Pereslavl-Zalessky

In the homeland of Alexander Nevsky, auto travelers will have to carefully plan their time in order to have time to see all the sights of the city. Pereslavl-Zalessky is famous for its many cathedrals and monasteries (the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Savior, as well as the Nikitsky, Holy Trinity Danilov, Feodorovsky, Nikolsky, Nikolo-Solbinsky and Goritsky monasteries). There are also three holy springs here: Varvarin, Nikitsky, and St. Anthony and Theodosius of the Kiev Caves. There are several active monasteries in the city, which can be visited daily from 7 am to 9 pm. The museum-estate "Botik of Peter the Great" is very popular. interesting to see the famous blue stone, which lies on the shore of Lake Pleshcheeva. There are many legends associated with this huge boulder. According to geologists, the stone was once dragged by a glacier.

And 28 films were filmed in Pereslavl-Zalessky, the most famous of which are Boomer, Orphan of Kazan and Thief. With the help of guides, you can visit the streets where the shooting took place.

When planning a visit to Pereslavl-Zalessky, it should be taken into account that various events are held here in the summer: June 1 - the festival "On a visit to Berendey", June 12 - Day of Russia and City Day, in July - the Balloonists Festival, in August - the Author's Song Festival. During festivals, there will be many more tourists in the city than on normal days, which means that it may be difficult to book hotel rooms and traffic on the roads.

Service Pereslavl-Zalessky

There are more than 15 hotels in the city, among which mini-hotels predominate. The average cost of a room is 2,300 rubles. You will not stay hungry in Pereslavl-Zalessky, there are many cafes, restaurants and pizzerias.

Rostov Kremlin. Rostov the Great Photo: Shutterstock

The third point of the route: Rostov the Great

The distance between Pereslavl-Zalessky and Rostov is 66 kilometres. According to the most optimistic calculations, it can be overcome in 60 minutes. But the reality is that bad roads will adjust travel times to some extent.

Experienced autotourists are advised to check with a map or a GPS navigator, because, according to Nikita Tyurin, “pointers showing how much is left to certain cities seem to be frozen in one place. For example, a sign hangs - 134 km to the city, we drive 20-25 kilometers, another sign shows 130 km. And such confusion in the mileage to Rostov the Great. Of the advantages of driving on the highway - the absence of traffic jams, of the minuses - a large number of"ambushes" of the traffic police and broken roads in the city and the entrances to it.

Sights of Rostov the Great

Excursions in Rostov the Great can capture you for several days, the history of this city is so rich. Therefore, you will have to choose the most interesting. For example, a tour of the Rostov Kremlin, where the comedy "Ivan Vasilievich Changes His Profession" was filmed. Be sure to visit the Sarskoye settlement, where the hero Alyosha Popovich lived in the 13th century. Take a look at the village of Godenovo, where the Life-Giving Cross is installed. It is believed that he is able to work miracles. It is very popular to see the city from the observation platforms of the monastery towers or the side of the old Russian boat from the side of Lake Nero.

Service of Rostov the Great

There are more than 15 hotels in the city. The average cost of a room is 600 rubles. Road travelers Pavel and Svetlana Martynenko advise staying at a mini-hotel located on the territory of the Kremlin. In their opinion, this is “a very unusual hotel - the former metropolitan's chambers. Of the minuses - "convenience" in the corridor. One of the advantages of living on the territory of the Kremlin is the opportunity to explore all its nooks and crannies after 17 pm, when the visit ends.”

In Rostov the Great, there are more than 20 hospitable places where you can have a bite to eat. There are no large supermarkets, but small shops have a decent assortment of goods.

Assumption Cathedral and a fragment of the monument " Eternal flame» in Yaroslavl Photo: Shutterstock

The fourth point of the route: Yaroslavl

The distance between Rostov the Great and Yaroslavl is 57 kilometers. Get ready for the fact that there will be many "ambushes" with traffic police inspectors in this area. Observe the permitted speed of movement, as there may be numerous camouflaged video recording cameras of violations.

Sights of Yaroslavl

In the town great amount Orthodox monasteries and churches. The most popular excursion is to the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery, famous for the fact that the headquarters of Minin and Pozharsky was located on its territory. Another pride of Yaroslavl is the Vasilyevsky Tower, built in the 17th century. You can admire the frescoes in the Church of Elijah the Prophet, and appreciate the collection of bells and bells in the private museum "Music and Time". Travelers with children will be interested in the Bear Monument and the My Favorite Bear Museum, which contains toys made of plush, wood, porcelain, metal and straw. Toddlers will love the nursery Railway almost 3.5 kilometers long.

According to autotourist Yulia Galliamova, “Yaroslavl is a city of relaxation. Everywhere grass, pine trees, houses and no humming cars, crowded roads. Julia advises auto travelers to look into folklore shops, look at the first Russian theater, try delicious Yaroslavl bread and buns.

Service Yaroslavl

There are more than 25 hotels in the city. The average cost of a room is 1,800 rubles. Those who plan to visit Yaroslavl in early July should take care of booking a room in advance: on July 6, the city will host the Ivan Kupala Night festival. Presumably, it will attract a large number of tourists to Yaroslavl. There are many establishments in the city that offer Russian cuisine.

Holy Trinity Ipatiev Monastery in Kostroma. View from the embankment Photo: Shutterstock

Fifth point of the route: Kostroma

And ahead is Kostroma - from Yaroslavl to it is only 86 kilometers.

Sights of Kostroma

Kostroma is a quiet, calm and cozy city. Visit the Ipatiev Monastery, founded in 1330, a monument to a dog, the Snegurochka's tower, a museum of wooden architecture, a museum of flax and birch bark. Autotraveller Alexander Vidov advises not only to take a picture next to the monument to the dog, but also to touch it by the nose. It is believed that this will bring good luck.

Service Kostroma

There are almost 40 hotels in the city. The average cost of a room is 1,800 rubles per day. In cafes and restaurants, tourists should not rely on low provincial prices. According to many tourists, the cost of meals in Kostroma is comparable to Moscow. There is no shortage of minimarkets in the city.

House-ship in Ivanovo Photo: Shutterstock

The sixth point of the route: Ivanovo

It is 106 kilometers to drive to the city of weavers. If the quality of the road allows, this distance can be covered in an hour and a half. However, motorists warn that Ivanovo traffic police officers are particularly interested in drivers from other regions. Therefore, be vigilant and follow the rules of the road.

Attractions Ivanovo

Ivanovo is a small town. Most likely, you will spend a little time in it, since there are relatively few sights of interest to tourists here. But you won’t leave without photographs as a keepsake, because Ivanovo has a unique house-ship. This unusual building was built in 1930, and it really looks like a sea vessel. In the city center you will find the Vvedensky Orthodox Women's Monastery, an architectural monument of the early 20th century. And even if you are far from the world of fashion, take a look at the museum of Ivanovo chintz. It houses a unique textile collection, numbering half a million exhibits.

Service Ivanovo

There are more than 15 hotels and mini-hotels in the city. The average cost of a room is 1,200 rubles. Travelers can easily find cafes and grocery stores in any district of Ivanovo.

The seventh point of the route: Suzdal

Resurrection Church in Suzdal Photo: Shutterstock

Suzdal is 78 kilometers from Ivanovo. The next city of the route is called the pearl of the Golden Ring of Russia. The high interest of tourists in Suzdal causes a large number of "ambushes" of traffic police inspectors.

Sights of Suzdal

There are many temples in the city, built in the manner peculiar to Suzdal. It is worth visiting the Pokrovsky and Spaso-Evfimiev monasteries, as well as the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin, which are part of the ensemble of the Suzdal Kremlin. The Golden Pantry and the Suzdal Prison Museum will be interesting. Autotourist Vladimir Miroshnikov recommends listening to bell ringing(sounds every hour) and choral singing inside the cathedral. And be sure to include a wooden architecture museum in your cultural program, where you will see a church, a wealthy gentleman's house, a poor peasant's house, a couple of mills, a well, a barn and rural houses.

Service Suzdal

The city tends to fluctuate prices between weekends and weekdays. Please note: on weekdays you can save up to 50% of the cost of accommodation. And on holidays (not only official, but also local) prices in hotels can be increased by 30-50%. The average cost of a room is 1,800 rubles per day.

There are a lot of mini-hotels in Suzdal. There are cafes and restaurants almost everywhere.

Gold ring of Russia. Vladimir Photo: Shutterstock

The eighth point of the route: Vladimir

The city of Vladimir completes the journey along the Golden Ring. It is separated from Suzdal by 35 kilometers. Drivers are waiting for an excellent road with high-quality coverage.

Sights of Vladimir

In the XII century, at the entrance to Vladimir, the Golden Gate was erected, which has survived to this day. Entering the city through them is considered lucky omen. Tourists in Vladimir are popular with Market Rows, Cathedral Square, the Nativity Monastery, Kozlov Val and a water tower, on top of which there is an observation deck. Do not forget to take a picture at the monument to the 850th anniversary of Vladimir - a pyramid with three heroes. Inspect the central cathedral of Vladimir - the Assumption. It preserved the icons painted by Andrei Rublev.

Vladimir is a big city. Each autotraveller will find something close to his soul in it, so this point on the route should be given more time. You may even have to stay an extra day.

Vladimir's service

There are many hotels and mini-hotels in the city. There will be no problems with accommodation even during the seasonal influx of tourists. However, this may affect the cost of living. There are a lot of cafes, restaurants, supermarkets in Vladimir.

Time to go home!

Well, the journey along the Golden Ring of Russia has come to an end. To the final point of the route - Moscow - 190 kilometers. If you are lucky enough to cover this distance without traffic jams, after 2.5 hours you can already download photos to your computer and remember how great it was during the trip!

We thank Vladimir Miroshnikov, Alexander Vidov, Yulia Galliamova, Nikita Tyurin, Pavel and Svetlana Martynenko for their help in preparing the material.

/ Maxim Averyanov

Having rested from the beauties of civilized Europe, the portal website went to the ancient cities of Russia. On the way along the Golden Ring, our correspondent paid tribute to the homeland of the first workers' Soviets and the monument of ancient Russian writing, saw the walls of the Vladimir Central, and did not forget to taste the Suzdal Medovukha.

While it's warm outside, it's time to fill up a full tank, check the levels of all technical fluids and tire pressure. And - go on a week-long (and if you're lucky, even a two-week) tour of the cities of the Golden Ring. There are about 800 kilometers of asphalt ahead, forests, fields, lakes, rivers, old settlements and ancient temples. Moreover, at present, a considerable part of the road - except for the first part of the Yaroslavl highway, where four bridges at once stood for overhaul before the end of summer - is of very high quality. What the author of these lines and checked for himself.

Point one: to the Golden Gate!

We advise you to start from Moscow, and as early as possible! The entire ring - if desired - can be driven in one day, but in this case, you will not see anything but a gray strip of asphalt. And so, if not in a hurry, then to the first point of your stop - the old Vladimir - from the Moscow Ring Road will be 181 kilometers. Of which the most difficult are the first 15 passing through Balashikha. This satellite near Moscow is replete with traffic lights and left turns, and therefore it is better to pass through it before seven in the morning. If you didn’t have time to have breakfast, an American-Canadian catering point is at your service on your right side in the same Balashikha.

After Noginsk, the Gorkovskoye highway - into which the Moscow highway of Enthusiasts (named after the convicts who went to Siberia - part of the road is still called "Pekingka") - becomes a very comfortable four-lane (in both directions) highway with a dividing barrier - before there were many head-on collisions; however, they still occur where there is no barrier. This is how the actor Alexander Dedyushko died near the village of Omutishchi ... So be on the lookout after all.

In general, it would be nice to observe the speed limit for several more reasons. The first is that a lot of photo radars have been installed along the route. Secondly, in settlements drivers are tracked from afar by traffic police officers, sometimes in pairs - one crew in the village, the second - on the outskirts of it.

But, even if you do not drive, the path to the outskirts of Vladimir will take you a maximum of two hours. Along the route there are many gas stations with acceptable quality fuel and several cafes where you can "refuel". Before reaching Vladimir - however, on the left hand side - there will be a “collapse”, where they sell “pneumatics” and tourist and hunting accessories.

The most famous monument of Vladimir is the Golden Gate. You can get to them if you go straight at the entrance to the city (the bypass road to Nizhny goes to the left). The exact address - if you are with a navigator - is the intersection of Bolshaya Moskovskaya and Dvoryanskaya streets. Near the Golden Gate are the remains of a genuine earthen rampart that surrounded the city (of course, the wooden palisade on top of the rampart has not been preserved). You can walk along the rampart, enter the gate (a museum is open there), see temples and monasteries, which are innumerable in Vladimir.

You can dine in any of the cafes and restaurants on Bolshaya Moskovskaya - I'm sure the prices will please residents of the capital cities.

There is one more place in this city… “Vladimirsky central, north wind…” – do you remember? So, here he is. AT different years Lidia Ruslanova, Vasily Stalin, Vladimir Bukovsky, Francis Powers, Friedrich Paulus and many others were sitting here. Drive through the city along the Bolshaya Moskovskaya ... Shortly after the station building (on the right) along left side from you you will see two old (1825) buildings, pink and blue. If the pink house is a court - go around to the left, then behind it you will see the famous six-meter prison walls ...

Point two: to the Nerl

“To the Nerl” means to Suzdal. Officially, it has existed since 1024, but it was founded, most likely, much earlier.

After driving another kilometer from Central, turn left at the traffic lights - this is the A113 highway leading directly to Suzdal. It is only 36 kilometers to the city, but the road is not easy: a winding two-lane road running through the hills. Here overtaking is difficult and extremely dangerous, and in places where the sign "Overtaking is prohibited!" a lot of traffic police posts. So do not rush ... Better stop at any of the "patch" with a roadside eatery - kebabs, fried potatoes, kvass ...

The tourist center of Suzdal is the Kremlin, which has many museums (including a torture one). The Suzdal Kremlin has nothing in common with Moscow: here, too, part of the fortifications were earthen, the rampart was preserved. But many monuments of wooden architecture were brought here from the surrounding villages. It is better to go here on foot - you will see more, and there is nowhere to park your car near the Kremlin. So it is better to park your car at the hotel or at the tourist center. By the way... When this material was being prepared, sad news came from Suzdal: during a thunderstorm, the wooden Church of the Transfiguration of the 17th century caught fire and was partially destroyed by fire.

What to watch: St. Efimovsky Monastery, and in it - the Transfiguration Cathedral, the Assumption Church, the belfry; Posad house; Intercession Monastery. It is very pleasant to walk around Suzdal, entering churches so ancient that their floor is half a meter below ground level. Here you can buy local mead, including non-alcoholic mead.

Where to sleep: there are not too many hotels in Suzdal, but private motels fill this gap. The cost of an overnight stay is from 800 to 2200-2500 rubles. Without breakfast.

small hook

If you have time, I would advise you to do it. Only 65 kilometers along the road, going through the fields, where there is never any traffic or any problems. In general, we are going to Yuryev-Polsky. At the exit from Suzdal there is a complex interchange in the form of the letter Sh. The far right “sleeve” is to Ivanovo (we will use it later), the middle one is to Gavrilov Yam, and the left one is to Yuryev-Polsky. This city is the same age as Moscow and was founded by the same Yuri Dolgoruky. It has nothing to do with Poland: the Poles did not get here in the 17th century. And the name originally sounded like "Polish" - i.e. nestled in the fields. A very, very nice town with an ancient, low, white-stone and truly Russian Kremlin, rooted into the ground, which is very pleasant to walk around.

To continue moving along the Ring, you will need to get to Ivanovo - as you know, the birthplace of the first workers' Soviets. You can return from Yuryev-Polsky to Suzdal and, taking it to the extreme right "sleeve", go to the highway, along which, having overcome 70 kilometers, you will find yourself in Ivanovo (there are few gas stations on the highway, so if you see it, don't pass by!) , buying along the way blueberries, blueberries or chanterelles at a roadside makeshift market.

But for adventure seekers on their own, I will advise another, detour route. Through Gavrilov Posad - an amazing dead-end city, in which - if you count only good roads– can only be reached from Ivanovo. The locals call it "Gavposad" and taxis don't go there. But you can get there, and even without all-wheel drive. To do this, you need to leave the city in the direction of Sima, and after 15 kilometers - on a hillock - turn right onto the dirt road, which then smoothly turns into a road of concrete slabs. You can drive along it without problems for about two kilometers ... And then you will get the impression that either tanks passed here, or - fighting with the use of artillery. The road is utterly broken - you have to turn the wheel like crazy. If there was a thunderstorm and puddles on the road, do not be too lazy to measure the depth. Usually it is no more than 15-20 cm, but in front of my eyes an overly self-confident Moscow driver in a Subaru Forester flopped down to the very windows.

Such a disgrace will not last long, asphalt will soon appear, and you will drive into Gavposad. And from there - along a good highway - through Teikovo you will get to Ivanovo already at the exit from the city and not far from the Canadian diner (if it's time to dine).

Ivanovo has stood on the Uvod River since 1328, but there is nothing special to see here - this is one of the textile capitals of Russia. I can only advise you to visit one of the wholesale and retail textile centers - cheap bed linen, just linen and so on.

On the way out of the city, pay attention to the military airfield of the Ivanovo paratroopers.

Point four - to the homeland of the Romanovs

The next city on our way is Kostroma. Before him - about a hundred kilometers, most of which passes through large and small villages. The road was recently upgraded, the speed limit increased, which led to the quite logical appearance of traffic police officers with radars in the local Palestinians. But there are enough gas stations, and the lack of cafes - there are only about a dozen of them - will be compensated by shops in settlements.

How will you pass Privolzhsk (this is half the way to Kostroma), think: why not go straight (to Kostroma - to the left, along the main road)? Directly - Ples ... Until it is "closed" (here, they say, there will be the president's residence), take the opportunity and look at the Volga expanses described by Levitan. Especially since it's close.

This part of the Golden Ring was put in order a few years ago: they leveled the road, changed the asphalt almost to the very entrance to Kostroma. But in the city itself they have not yet managed to change it - be careful. In addition, the city has a lot of unafraid pedestrians and indistinct traffic lights.

Kostroma, according to some sources, dates back to 1152. Founded it - right! - Yury Dolgoruky. And, although the city developed rapidly, it gained fame only in 1613, when the boyar embassy arrived in Kostroma to ask Mikhail Fedorovich Romanov to reign. The Ipatiev Monastery, in which this action took place, is the most significant monument of the city. The monastery is beautiful in itself: it can be seen from the road bridge across the Volga. It also contains the Tale of Bygone Years, an ancient Russian written monument.

In Kostroma itself - especially in its coastal regions - it is pleasant to walk around, see the shopping arcade - Red and petty, old merchant houses.

But you can arrive in Kostroma in another way - using a ferry crossing. To do this, let's go back a little, to Privolzhsk. Turning to Kostroma, after five kilometers you will see a sign on the right - "Red on the Volga". After turning, after 8 kilometers you will get to the picturesque ferry crossing. The ferry runs every 45 minutes and can accommodate about 10-12 cars. The cost of the crossing is within 200 rubles, including passengers. But on the other hand, you get stunning views of the Volga, and besides, you find yourself in the jewelry capital of Russia, you can walk through its shops for several hours ... All of them are located on the same street, along which, after leaving the village, you will enter Kostroma from the east after 30 kilometers .

Where to eat: there are small cafes and restaurants in the city, but there are few of them, since there are still few tourists, and the locals have problems with the budget. This is why the Canadian eatery on the first floor of the Kostroma department store, located directly opposite the highway across the Volga, is especially popular.

Where to sleep: there are problems with hotels in the city ... The central one is now under repair, and in the rest they can ask for an overnight stay, like in the Hilton - up to 5,000 rubles.

Point five - Yaroslavl

Leaving the city - for this you will have to go back over the bridge to the other side of the Volga, you will go to the Kostroma highway, along which it is 80 kilometers before the turn to Yaroslavl. Make way here last time repaired 10 years ago, so now it is so-so, do not drive! And we advise you to refuel at the exit from Kostroma - gas stations along the highway, to be honest, do not inspire confidence. There are a lot of ambushes on the road, so watch out for speed limit and overtaking signs.

The highway will end at a T-junction where you have to turn right. And soon you will enter the city, which celebrated its 1000th anniversary last year. Here we advise you to see the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery (the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Savior, the Church of the Yaroslavl Wonderworkers, the belfry), one of the oldest churches in the city - the Church of Michael the Archangel (Pervomaiskaya Street). There are a lot of memorable places and ancient buildings on the embankments of the city.

By the way. Once upon a time, motor ships and Meteors went from Yaroslavl to Kostroma. Therefore, it was possible, leaving the car, to make a journey through the water for several hours. And now, alas...

Where to eat: There are enough cafes in the city, so you won't go hungry for sure. Or you can look for a more impressive place on the way to the next point of the Ring - Rostov.

Where to sleep: again a problem with hotel beds, although private hotels have appeared in recent years. The cost of a room for the night is from 1800 rubles.

Point six - the most ancient

The city of Rostov, which is located just 57 kilometers from Yaroslavl, is one of the most ancient cities in Russia: the official date of its foundation is 862! Plus, it's pretty easy to get to. Leaving Yaroslavl and leaving behind on the right the local oil refinery, famous for its explosions and fires, you will drive 40 kilometers along a luxurious four-lane highway. It is generally a sin to drive on it at a speed below 140 km / h, but the permitted speed, alas, is 50 km / h lower - do not get carried away! There are many overpasses on the highway, behind which guys with radars like to hide. And remember - all gas stations, cafes and motels are along the side of the opposite direction of the highway, so look for places to turn around.

But all good things come to an end. The highway will also end - near the village of Shalaevo, turning into a tense two-lane M8 with large quantity trucks and rare overtaking zones. The route goes through the villages, where quite often the drunken population gets under the wheels - keep the speed no higher than 70! But all this will be rewarded by the entrance to Rostov, which welcomes guests with a stele with the numbers "862".

All the main attractions of this city are located to the left of the highway. Behind wooden and partially stone houses and storehouses along the road, the ancient Kremlin and a huge lake with the beautiful and unearthly name Nero are hidden.

What to watch: The Kremlin - first of all: the local Assumption Cathedral was founded in the 900s, at the turn of the millennium, so to speak. Very interesting is the church of Gregory the Theologian and the two-tier belfry, the lower tier of which is occupied by the temple of the Entry of the Lord into Jerusalem. True, local excursions are paid, but with all tickets you can meet 1000 rubles.

The second most important “point” is the Spaso-Yakovlensky Dmitriev Monastery (Engels Street) on the very shore of the lake in the southern part of the city. And on the northern outskirts and also on the shore rises the Epiphany Abraham Monastery.

We strongly advise you to ride on the lake, especially if you don’t feel like going around each of the ancient monuments - from the water they are all in full view. There is a municipal boat rental, but you can also negotiate with private carriers. Prices, let's say, "vary": it all depends on the appetite of the boatman.

Where to eat: the city is not yet accustomed to the influx of tourists, but there is a cafe. Prices are quite low, but you should not count on a special delicacy of the cuisine.

Where to sleep: there are hotels in Rostov. Not European, of course, level, but quite comfortable. Prices for a stay - from 800 to 2000 rubles per room per day.

N.B. If you have half a day of free time and you decide to spend the night in Rostov, then why not go to Uglich at the same time? It is a little younger than Rostov (937), but has a glorious history. It is also famous for the fact that Tsarevich Dimitry, the son of Ivan the Terrible, was killed here in 1591, after which the Rurik dynasty was cut short, the Troubles began. Turn to Uglich - at the exit from Rostov, to the left. To the ancient city on the banks of the Volga - through the very beautiful village of Borisoglebskoye - only 95 miles. Moreover, in August, the traditional “Harvest Fair” works here: honey, apples, jams and more.

Point seven - to the boat

Do not confuse - not a "boutique", but a boat! We are talking about Pereslavl-Zalessky, an ancient (1152, Yuri Dolgoruky) city on the shores of Lake Pleshcheyevo. The road here is rather tedious, because for the most part it is two-lane, and overtaking is prohibited almost everywhere: the M8 highway winds its way through steep hills, resembling a rollercoaster.

Actually, this city has already been in our review, and therefore - a brief summary. Here in 1220 Prince Alexander was born, later nicknamed Nevsky. And 720 years later, Sergei Eisenstein immediately shot the film "Alexander Nevsky". Tsar Peter learned to sail here on a small boat (see the museum "Peter's Boat" in the village of Veskovo). Today in the city - in addition to the ancient monastery on the shore - there is the Museum of the narrow gauge railway, the Museum of the iron and the House of the teapot. And you can swim in Lake Pleshcheyevo - the beach is located at the end of Kuznetsova Street, almost in the very center of the city.

Where to eat: the city is full of places where you can eat, as numerous intercity buses and minibuses stop here.

Where to sleep: in fact, only 130 km are left to Moscow, but ... if it's the night, it's better to stay. In hotels - there are, however, few of them - you can rent a room from 1200 to 3000 rubles per night.

Point eight - Lavra. Or…

... Zagorsk, aka Sergiev Posad, is located so close to Moscow (56 kilometers) that it is almost of no interest to residents of the capital. In addition, we somehow told about it in sufficient detail - both about the monasteries and about the famous wells. But if you go towards S. Posad, then in the village of Dvoriki there will be a left turn - to Alexandrov. The city is about 30 kilometers away.

This city - under the name of the village of Velikaya Sloboda - has been mentioned since the 14th century, here was the residence of the son of Ivan III, Prince Vasily III. But, of course, Ivan IV the Terrible became the most famous inhabitant of Alexandrov ... The Tsar moved here in 1564, when, having gone on a pilgrimage to the Trinity-Sergius Lavra, he decided not to return to Moscow. Here he convened the oprichnina, here all the threads of the administration of the kingdom were concentrated, here the first Russian book, the Psalter, was printed. Here jumped from the bell tower on makeshift wings "the stink Nikitka of the boyar son of Lupatov's serf."

Tsarevich Ivan (1581), who became a victim of his father's wrath, was also killed here. After that, Grozny left the settlement forever. Since then, it is believed that the famous library of the king is hidden somewhere here.

Here, in the first half of the 18th century, Tsarevna Elizaveta Petrovna, exiled here by Empress Anna Ioannovna, was kept in the monastery.

Well, from the latest events - here, in 1970, the film "Ruslan and Lyudmila" was filmed.

Of the historical sites, it is worth seeing the Trinity (formerly Pokrovsky) Cathedral, the Intercession (formerly Trinity) Church, the Church of Alexei Metropolitan (inside the existing Crucifixion Bell Tower) and the Assumption Church.

... If you have enough strength, then after Alexandrovsky you can look into Sergiev Posad.

But we don’t recommend getting to Moscow along the Yaroslavl Highway: as mentioned above, repairs, traffic jams ... It’s better, after returning a little back, to exit onto A108 concrete ring), drive along it to Alenino (turn to Chernogolovka and exit to Moscow through Shchelkovskoye highway) or - return to Gorkovskoye highway in the Ozherelok area.

That's when the "Golden Ring" will really close.

You don't need to stock up on fuel. The cost of gasoline on the entire route is equal to capital prices, but it is better to refuel your car at proven gas stations, for example, the Rosneft company.

The first point of the route: Sergiev Posad

Sights of Sergiev Posad

There are many interesting sights around Sergiev Posad. For example, the famous Abramtsevo estate is located 15 kilometers away. 14 kilometers from the city, not far from the village of Vzglyadnevo, there is a Gremyachiy waterfall, beating from a height of 25 meters. Its water is believed to have medicinal properties. Its temperature does not change all year round and even in frosts it is 6 degrees above zero. But you can drive to the waterfall only in the dry season. After the rains, the road becomes bad.

Service Sergiev Posad

There are more than 20 hotels in Sergiev Posad, private and monastic. The average cost of a room is 1,800 rubles. Shops and cafes - for every taste and wealth.

The second point of the route: Pereslavl-Zalessky

Sights of Pereslavl-Zalessky

In the homeland of Alexander Nevsky, auto travelers will have to carefully plan their time in order to have time to see all the sights of the city. Pereslavl-Zalessky is famous for its many cathedrals and monasteries (the Cathedral of the Transfiguration of the Savior, as well as the Nikitsky, Holy Trinity Danilov, Feodorovsky, Nikolsky, Nikolo-Solbinsky and Goritsky monasteries). There are also three holy springs here: Varvarin, Nikitsky, and St. Anthony and Theodosius of the Kiev Caves. There are several active monasteries in the city, which can be visited daily from 7 am to 9 pm. The museum-estate "Botik of Peter the Great" is very popular. It is interesting to see the famous Blue Stone, which lies on the shore of Lake Pleshcheeva. There are many legends associated with this huge boulder. According to geologists, the stone was once dragged by a glacier.

And 28 films were filmed in Pereslavl-Zalessky, the most famous of which are Boomer, Orphan of Kazan and Thief. With the help of guides, you can visit the streets where the shooting took place.

Service Pereslavl-Zalessky

The third point of the route: Rostov the Great

Experienced autotourists are advised to check with a map or a GPS navigator, because, according to Nikita Tyurin, “pointers showing how much is left to certain cities seem to be frozen in one place. For example, a sign hangs - 134 km to the city, we drive 20-25 kilometers, another sign shows 130 km. And such confusion in the mileage to Rostov the Great. Of the advantages of driving along the highway - the absence of traffic jams, of the minuses - a large number of "ambushes" of the traffic police and broken roads in the city and the entrances to it.

Sights of Rostov the Great

Service of Rostov the Great

In Rostov the Great, there are more than 20 hospitable places where you can have a bite to eat. There are no large supermarkets, but small shops have a decent assortment of goods.

The fourth point of the route: Yaroslavl

Sights of Yaroslavl

The city has a huge number of Orthodox monasteries and churches. The most popular excursion is to the Spaso-Preobrazhensky Monastery, famous for the fact that the headquarters of Minin and Pozharsky was located on its territory. Another pride of Yaroslavl is the Vasilyevsky Tower, built in the 17th century. You can admire the frescoes in the Church of Elijah the Prophet, and appreciate the collection of bells and bells in the private museum "Music and Time". Travelers with children will be interested in the Bear Monument and the My Favorite Bear Museum, which contains toys made of plush, wood, porcelain, metal and straw. Kids will also enjoy the children's railway, which is almost 3.5 kilometers long.

Service Yaroslavl

Fifth point of the route: Kostroma

And ahead is Kostroma - from Yaroslavl to it is only 86 kilometers.

Sights of Kostroma

Service Kostroma

The sixth point of the route: Ivanovo

Attractions Ivanovo

Service Ivanovo

There are more than 15 hotels and mini-hotels in the city. The average cost of a room is 1,200 rubles. Travelers can easily find cafes and grocery stores in any district of Ivanovo.

The seventh point of the route: Suzdal

Sights of Suzdal

There are many temples in the city, built in the manner peculiar to Suzdal. It is worth visiting the Pokrovsky and Spaso-Evfimiev monasteries, as well as the Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin, which are part of the ensemble of the Suzdal Kremlin. The Golden Pantry and the Suzdal Prison Museum will be interesting. Autotourist Vladimir Miroshnikov recommends listening to the bell ringing (sounds every hour) and choral singing inside the cathedral. And be sure to include a wooden architecture museum in your cultural program, where you will see a church, a wealthy gentleman's house, a poor peasant's house, a couple of mills, a well, a barn and rural houses.

Service Suzdal

There are a lot of mini-hotels in Suzdal. There are cafes and restaurants almost everywhere.

The eighth point of the route: Vladimir

The city of Vladimir completes the journey along the Golden Ring. It is separated from Suzdal by 35 kilometers. Drivers are waiting for an excellent road with high-quality coverage.

Sights of Vladimir

In the XII century, at the entrance to Vladimir, the Golden Gate was erected, which has survived to this day. Entering the city through them is considered a lucky omen. Tourists in Vladimir are popular with Market Rows, Cathedral Square, the Nativity Monastery, Kozlov Val and a water tower, on top of which there is an observation deck. Do not forget to take a picture at the monument to the 850th anniversary of Vladimir - a pyramid with three heroes. Inspect the central cathedral of Vladimir - the Assumption. It preserved the icons painted by Andrei Rublev.

Vladimir is a big city. Each autotraveller will find something close to his soul in it, so this point on the route should be given more time. You may even have to stay an extra day.

Vladimir's service

Time to go home!

We thank Vladimir Miroshnikov, Alexander Vidov, Yulia Galliamova, Nikita Tyurin, Pavel and Svetlana Martynenko for their help in preparing the material.