Sew a top with an elastic band. How to sew a knitted top. Very fashionable strapless top. Pattern

Tip: if the fabric does not stretch enough in width, make the pattern one size larger.

You will need

• Graph paper ()
• Pencil
• Ruler ()
• Copy wheel
• Measuring tape ()
• Stretchable fabric at least 50 cm long, 120 cm wide
• Double needle for jersey
• Sewing threads
• Scissors ()
• Pins()

Description of work

Step 1: Draw a pattern

• black line - size S
• green - size M
• blue - size L
• The gray line indicates the line of the upper edge of the back
• 1 cell = 2 cm.

Step 2: cut out the details

Then cut out the strips along the bias (at an angle of 45° to the straight thread of the fabric):

• 1 bias tape 60 cm long and 10 cm wide for piping the front neckline and
• 1 bias tape 140 cm long and 4 cm wide for edging the front and back necklines and straps.

Attention: make all seams with a double needle so that they remain stretchable. In the pictures, the seams are indicated by a red line, a lighter color is the back side, a darker color is the front side.

Step 3: Stitch the facing of the front neckline

Step 4: Sew front and back and hem

Step 5: Finish the back and armhole with bias tape

Step 6: Sew the Straps

Model complexity level - simple

Technical drawing of the model:

Description of appearance

A slip and/or top made of silk material with a fitted silhouette. The front part of the combination (top) with a cut-off bodice on which darts are processed. There is a lace insert between the front and the bodice. The upper section of the bodice is decorated with lace trim. Back with middle seam. The straps of the combination (top) are made of edging braid. The processing technology of the straps allows you to adjust their length.

When ordering a pattern, you receive a pdf file containing 1 sheet of patterns, which can be printed on several A4 sheets, after gluing which you will receive one large sheet with the contours of the patterns:

* To print the pattern in actual size, when printing in Adobe Reader, select “Poster” in the “Setting the size and processing pages” section. Then the image will be automatically divided into the required number of A4 fragments. If your version of AdobeReader does not have the "Poster" function, you need to download the latest version of this program from the link https://get.adobe.com/ru/reader/ (this is a licensed free program). If you still have questions, visit our FAQ section!

The following designations are used on the pattern:

Details (combination details with red numbers, top - blue. The cutting line of the top is indicated on the pattern with a dotted line and signed):

1. Back - 2 children.

2. Bodice - 2 children.

3. Before - 1 child. (with fold)

4. Lace trim on the bodice - 2 pieces.

5. Lace insert - 2 pieces.

Also on the back part there is an inscription: “Diameter of tape for edging and straps = xxx cm (including two straps of xxx cm each)”

When cutting, add seam allowances: along the side sections of the front, back and bodice - 0.8 cm; along the lower edge of the front and back – 1.0 cm; along the top cut of the front, top and bottom cut of the bodice - 0.5 cm. Seam allowances for parts made of lace: along the side, bottom and top cut of the lace insert - 0.8 cm; The seam allowance along the middle cut of the lace insert and lace trim depends on the processing technology of this knot and the technology used sewing machine– 0.3 cm if you connect these parts using a zigzag stitch machine, or 0.8 cm if this is not possible.

ATTENTION! Do not give a seam allowance along the armhole cut or the upper back cut, because... these sections will be edged during processing.

Recommendations on materials: To make the product you will need silk material (preferably viscose or Lyocell), preferably with elastane threads inserted or thin knitted fabric. For a combination you will need 70 cm of material with a width of at least 120 cm, for a top - 50 cm with a width of at least 100 cm.

LAYOUT of parts

COMBINATION

In addition, to make a combination and (or) top you will need lace fabric or lace braid 5 cm wide, edging braid or bias tape (the finished length, taking into account allowances, is indicated on the back part), as well as strap length adjusters - 2 pieces.

Sewing sequence COMBINATIONS (TOPS):

1. Baste and then stitch the darts on the bodice. Iron the seam allowance towards the center.
2. Baste and then stitch the back pieces along the middle seam. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances to the side.
3. Sew the details of the lace insert along the middle seam using a zigzag stitch on a sewing machine (Fig. 1). If there is no sewing machine that performs a zigzag stitch, then overcast the middle sections of the lace insert, stitch, and then iron the seam allowances (Fig. 2).

1. Also connect the details of the lace trim of the bodice along the middle seam.
2. Baste and then stitch the lace trim of the bodice to the bodice along the top edge. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances.
3. Baste and then stitch the lace insert to the bodice. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances.
4. Baste and then stitch the lace panel to the front. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances down.
5. Baste and then stitch the front and back along the side edges. Overcast the edges and press the seam allowances toward the back.
6. Finish the bottom edge of the combination with a hem seam with a closed edge (Fig. 1) or a hem seam with an open overcast edge (Fig. 2).

1. Prepare edging braid to form loops intended for attaching rings.

1. Edge the top section of the back (from the middle seam) and sections of the armholes of the bodice with edging braid or bias tape while simultaneously processing (sewing in) the straps.
2. Overcast the ends of the edging tape to attach the rings. Thread the rings, bend the free ends of the edging tape in half inward and secure with two short parallel lines at the base. Thus, the length of the loops into which the rings are threaded should be approximately 2 cm. Sew the loops with the rings on the back.
3. Overcast the ends of the straps, thread them through the buckles to adjust the length, bend the end of each strap inward, pull it through the buckle again from the inside and fasten it to the folded side of the straps.

Top pattern - details

Rice. 1: Top pattern - front

Rice. 2: Top pattern - back

Constructing a pattern

Rice. 3. Top pattern - construction

Rice. 4. Top pattern - cut details

To create a pattern, we need to take several measurements:

Hip circumference – 98 cm

Shoulder length – 12 cm

Sleeve length ¾ – 33 cm

Top length from waist – 20 cm

If you want to lengthen or shorten your top or sleeve, this can be done easily. If your chest circumference is larger than your hip circumference, use the chest circumference measurement when creating a top pattern.

Since this top has a loose fit, the pattern shown will fit sizes 46-48.

On tracing paper, draw a drawing of the top pattern as shown in Fig. 3. The width of the front/back depends on the circumference of the hips. The more you add to your measurements, the more folds there will be along the bottom of the top. The same goes for the bottom of the sleeve.

Front/back width of the top according to the pattern: ¼ hip circumference according to measurement + (9-11) cm: 98/4+9=33cm. (You can increase the increase by 2 cm for more volume at the bottom).

Sleeve length according to drawing = shoulder length + sleeve length according to measurement: 12+33=45cm.

Neckline - set aside 22.5 cm at right angles as shown in Figure 3. Using a pattern or by hand, draw a smooth curved line for the neckline, stepping back 2 cm to the right (along the neck - gather).

In the middle of the front, put 9 cm down from the neckline - put a mark on the cut.

How to cut a top

Any top is suitable cotton fabric: fine linen, cambric, viscose. can be calculated this way: Top length + sleeve length according to the pattern.

From the main fabric, cut out:

Top shelf – 1 piece with fold

Back of top – 1 piece with fold

Sleeve – 2 parts

Additionally, cut out 2 cuff pieces 6 cm wide (2 cm in finished form) and 24 cm long (22 cm in finished form).

2 oblique strips for threading into the drawstring along the neckline and along the bottom of the top, about 115 cm long and 3 cm wide.

IMPORTANT! You can also make a narrow cuff at the bottom of the top instead of a drawstring.

1 oblique strip for processing a shelf cut 20 cm long and 3 cm wide.

All seam allowances are 1.5 cm.

How to sew a top

Finish the cut details with an overlock stitch. Stitch the sleeves along the bottom seams. Sew the side seams of the top. Sew the sleeves into the armholes. Cut the shelf to the mark, process the cut of the shelf.

Gather along the bottom of the sleeves, stitch the cuff parts along the short sides, stitch to the sleeves, bend in half, tuck the seam allowances and stitch along the edge of the cuffs.

Fold the neckline under and stitch at a distance of 1 cm from the edge. Fold the allowance at the bottom of the top and stitch 1 cm from the edge. Sew bindings from oblique strips of fabric, insert one into the drawstring of the neckline, and the second into the drawstring at the bottom of the top. Tie knots at the ends of the trims, gather the neckline and bottom of the top to the desired length, and tie the trims into bows. Your top is ready - wear it with pleasure and be happy!

Hello my dear readers! With the arrival of summer, I really want to sew a perfectly light knitted top. It can be with or without straps.

For this I needed 0.5 meters of knitwear. We won’t even make a pattern: we just take a piece of fabric, wrap ourselves so that the knitwear fits snugly to the body, and cut out a rectangle. The height of my rectangle is 40 cm. The remaining 10 cm is for the straps.

Our top will have only one seam - on the side. Be sure to put a knitting needle in the machine, otherwise there will be gaps in the stitches in the seam, and these gaps personally frustrate me very much..

We stitch it on a typewriter: (in the photo the seam is laid out in the center so that it is clearly visible)

You can sew directly on an overlocker or zig-zag, in which case the allowances will be processed immediately.

Now you need to process the top and bottom cuts on the top. Due to the fact that we are sewing from knitwear, simply fold the allowances for good looking in the end it won't be enough.

Therefore, we glue the allowances of the lower and upper cuts with paper tape. I wrote about this in detail.

The result is such a beautiful bottom:

Now we sew it with a straight stitch double needle for knitwear .

After we sew the line, the bottom may become “humpy”, because working with knitwear cannot be called easy, you need to adapt to it.

Be sure to iron the seam along the bottom of the top, it should become perfectly smooth and flat:

We process the top cut of the top in the same way.

Now we measure the elastic so that it doesn’t put pressure on finished product. To do this, we measure the volume of the body above the chest - where we are going to wear the top. We measure not with a centimeter tape, but with an elastic band.

We make a drawstring at the top of the top into which we will insert an elastic band.

We make straps of the desired width from the remaining fabric and sew them to the front and back of the top.

This is how the knitted top turned out:

You can decorate the top part of the top with sequins and make it long - you get a knitted tunic.

It's easy if you know a few tricks
1. The top of the top has a silicone tape on the inside.

2. The jersey in the chest area is stretched quite tightly

3. The back pattern is shorter than the shelf pattern.

Now more details on each of the points + pattern for size 46-48.

Here: construction of a top for size OG = 96-98, From = 78, OB = 98-100 cm

actwin,0,0,1360,742;Untitled - Rhinoceros (Corporate) - Rhino4 05/09/2015, 20:47:41

• Selection of knitwear.
  It should not be too stretchy and hold its shape well. For example, “butter” knitwear is not the best option for the top. I had a cotton jersey good quality, quite dense, medium stretch.
• Decate the fabric before cutting! Wash as usual so that there are no surprises afterwards - knitwear is tricky.
• Calculate the “negative gain” in the chest area.
  To do this, you need to stretch a piece of canvas across and determine a comfortable degree of tension to your measurement OG 1. Measure above the chest - the measuring tape passes under the armpits. We need to understand how much to “tighten” the top border of the top.
  The fact is that our top will be light, without supporting bones. He has to hold on only due to the tension on his chest.
  In the waist and hip area, it is enough to reduce your measurements by 2-3 cm
• We cut out the back and shelf.
  We will have two areas where the shelf will fit.
  Firstly, in the chest area 2-3 cm. This is how we distribute the side dart to the chest volume.
  secondly, in the waist area 1-2 cm. This way we shorten the back to get rid of folds in the lumbar deflection area. Fitting knitted fabric is simple and pleasant. We take advantage of the tensile properties: first you need to chop off the sections, evenly distributing the fit. Then stitch the side sections using any knitted stitch (I used a zigzag stitch with a small amplitude of 1.3 mm and a pitch of 2 mm). Stretch the fabric with your hands when sewing. All processes are in the photo. I’ll make a reservation right away: I’m not a fan of the cover-stitching technique. I don’t plan to buy an expensive flat-stitch machine for my small workshop. And in general, I prefer methods of processing knitwear that are different from industrial ones. Overlock, simple and stepped zigzag, hidden hand stitches - that's enough. this is NOT wrong! It’s soulful and couture). If you prefer special equipment, that’s welcome. All markers have different tastes and colors.
  I love knitwear, I sew it a lot and often. I advise beginners not to be afraid of technology). Knitwear certainly has sewing features. But this is such rewarding material that once you have mastered the simple rules, you will love it dearly, just like me). By the way, I plan to make a series of articles on knitwear.
• Processing side cuts using an overlocker. Of course, you can only get by with a 4-thread overlock stitch, but stretching the fabric under the overlock knife while simultaneously monitoring the direction of the stitching is quite problematic. “Somehow sloppy” (c).
• We process the lower and upper cuts with an overlock stitch.
• We just fold the bottom. As you like, use any knitted stitch or use your hands. In the photo: the more experience I gain, the more often I use running stitches. Time for handmade I don’t regret it – it pays off in the end result.
• First, we stitch the silicone tape to the upper cut using an elastic stitch, slightly pulling the tape. Then we bend the cut. All processes are in the photo.
• The top is ready.