Overalls? easily! detailed master class. Master class: denim overalls “Funny Kitten How to put fasteners on a denim sundress

Useful tips

There are many fashionable tricks that are useful for girls and women.

Here are some tips to help you deal with these problems.

DIY bra

1. Take advantage paperclip, to hide straps that protrude from sleeveless tops.

2. Sew button to a T-shirt or top so that the straps do not peek out and do not fall off the shoulders.

3. Sew the front of an inexpensive bra to the backless dress. Try to sew so that the seams are not visible on the front of the dress, and use pins to ensure that the bra is sewn straight.

4. To prevent a strapless bra from falling or falling down, secure it with a strap.

5. Store your bras on one hanger, which will help save space and they will not lose their shape.

6. You can do it organizer for bras yourself using hangers, hooks and pliers.

You will need some wooden hangers with a notch for the straps, hook screws or hooks, and pliers.

· Screw the hooks to the center or joint of the wooden hanger.

· Use pliers to close the hook.

· Do the same with the remaining hangers, except for the last one.

· Hang one hanger on top of another and you're done!

Backless bra

7. If you wear backless dresses, you can alter your bra so that it is hidden.

You will need:

· Clasp from an old bra

·Elastic tape

· Thread and needle

Cut the clasps off the old bra, leaving enough room to sew on the elastic band.

Sew one clasp to one end of the elastic band, fasten it to one end of your bra and wrap it around your waist to measure the length you need.

Cut the elastic band or elastic band to the desired length and sew another fastener to the end. Fasten it to the other end of the bra.

8. Here's another one way to remake a bra so that it is not visible when wearing a dress or other clothing with an open back.

What to do if a wire comes out of your bra

9. Daily pads can be a temporary salvation when popping bones from a bra. A patch is also suitable for this purpose.

10. If the bone has come out, try to solve this problem with textile glue and thread with a needle.

· Thread the bone back through the hole.

· Seal the hole with fabric glue and leave to dry for a few minutes.

· Then close the area where the hole has formed using stitches (about 10 for a small hole and twice as many for a large one).

Correct bra size

11. Check if do you wear right size bra.

If you can't get two fingers under the back clasp, your bra is too tight.

If you can get a whole fist through, then it is too loose on you.

How to wash a bra

12. To ensure that your bra retains its shape for as long as possible, it is better to wash it by hand.

· Fill a sink or basin with water and add a little detergent for delicate fabrics.

· Soak the laundry for a few minutes.

· After this, wash the most dirty areas.

· Drain the soapy water and refill the basin or sink and rinse the laundry.

· Rinse again under running water.

· Roll up your bra in a folded towel to remove excess moisture.

· Leave the bra to dry on a towel.

13. To ensure your sports bra lasts a long time, take it with you to the shower. and quickly hand wash and then hang dry. Handwash Wearing moisture-wicking clothing helps maintain the integrity of the fabric and extends the shelf life of your bra.

14. Here's how to make a bra storage organizer.

15. These are what types of bras exist.

Yarn Troitskaya "Zimushka", 30% alpaca, 70% acrylic, 100 m per 50 g, color called "Light Salad", yarn consumption 210 g.

About yarn. Such overalls can be knitted from almost any yarn, according to your desire and depending on when you use them: summer or winter. For newborns, it is better not to take pure wool yarn - it is very itchy, and you can get allergies; in general, children are not comfortable. Preferably wool with a wool content of 30 to 60%, not very fluffy. Or with a higher wool content, if it is alpaca or merino, these are practically not itchy. Can be made from cotton or children's acrylic. Any thread thickness suitable for knitting needles.
The approximate amount of yarn p\w is 150-200 g, depending on the density of your knitting and the size of the overalls.
Knitting needles. I knit loosely, medium, so I will knit in circles No. 3, and stockings No. 3 and for cuffs 2. You will also need a hook No. 2-2.5 for tying the zipper.

Begin.
First, calculate the number of loops to be cast on. To calculate, you need two values: neck circumference in cm and the density of your knitting, i.e. the number of loops per 1 cm in width.
Cast on an edge with open stitches on two pairs of knitting needles (also called a cross cast-on).

I cast on 68 loops.


Next we will knit the main fabric, then the hood. If the second knitting needles get in the way during the knitting process, then you need to knit two rows from one pair of knitting needles and close in the third row with a contrasting thread in the usual way.
We knit the first row with the main knitting needles; I usually knit it purl, in my opinion, it’s more convenient to distribute it onto the raglan.
Raglan calculation:


11 loops for each front, 9 loops for each sleeve, 20 back loops + 8 raglan loops. I will knit raglan lines with purl stitches. And immediately in the 1st (purl) row we mark all the loops on the part.
Row 1 (purl): p11, k2, p9, k2, p20, k2, p9, k2, p11.
In order for the neckline on the front to be deeper than on the back, in the first front row (the second row in our process) we knit shortened rows along the loops of both sleeves and the back, making a turn in the raglan lines.

It turns out like this:


I make additions before the raglans and after the raglans every second row of the front (that is, every fourth row is obtained) in the form of a “shell”: from one loop of the previous row, knit 3 loops (knit, yarn over, knit, crossed).




Addition process:
2nd row: (1st row): knit 10, from the 11th loop we knit a “shell”, purl 2, “shell”, knit 7, “shell”, purl 2, “shell”, K18, shell, p2, shell, k7, shell, p2, shell, k10.
3rd row (purl): purl all, raglan loops - knit.
Row 4: knit all, purl raglan stitches, no increases
Row 5: purl all, raglan loops - knit
Row 6: K12, from the penultimate loop to the raglan line we knit a “shell”, purl 2, “shell”, sleeve loops, from the penultimate loop to the raglan line we knit a “shell”, purl 2, “shell”... etc.
Row 7: purl all, raglan loops - knit
Row 8: knit all, purl raglan stitches, no increases
Row 9: purl all, sing raglans - knits
Row 10: knit with increases
etc.

You can also use standard increases, for example, as in the video, or one yarn over BEFORE and AFTER the raglan line, each front row (i.e., every second row).
In general, the additions in both cases amount to 8 loops each front row.

Next we knit with increments until the total length of the raglan line is 12-13 cm. If the overalls are for ages from 10 months. and older or the baby is big and plump, then the length of the raglan line can be knitted 13-14 cm, no more. I got 6 “shells” + 2 rows.


In general, everything looks like this:


The total number of loops I had was: on the fronts - 23, on the sleeves - 33, on the back - 44, and 8 raglan loops.

We finish knitting with a single fabric and drop the sleeve loops onto the extra. knitting needles or pins. There are 2 options for further knitting - with or without undercut. I knit with an undercut - this means adding additional air loops between the front and back. In this case, the sleeve loops are dropped WITHOUT the raglan loops. It is knitted like this: front loops, 1st raglan stitches, 4 chain stitches, place the sleeve loops on a pin, then 2nd raglan loops on the main knitting needles, back loops, 3rd raglan loops, 4 chain stitches, place the sleeve loops on a pin, 4th raglan loops, shelf loops.
I get a back-front total of 23 + 23 + 44 + 8 = 98 loops and additionally between each shelf and the back I pick up 4 loops, i.e. a total of 98 + 8 = 106 loops.






You can knit without undercuts. That is, without picking up air loops, then you need to divide the knitting along the raglan line, that is, 1 raglan loop will go to each part: knit a shelf, one raglan loop, then on an additional one. knitting needles the second raglan loop, sleeve loops and one raglan loop of the next raglan, continue on the main knitting needles to knit the second raglan loop, back loops, the first raglan loop of the next raglan...
Next, we continue to knit in straight stockinette stitch without increments.


Girls, next I will give my personal calculations and the method of tying a step bevel. We kindly ask - if you share the results on the Internet based on this knitting option, then please indicate the authorship of the method, just a link to IRANTA. Thank you for your understanding!

So, we knit in a straight line downwards from the calculation to the point where we need to divide the knitting into two legs, but from this value we subtract 2 cm for the “gusset” and another 3 cm. Don’t be alarmed, it’s simple. For overalls 68-74 cm:
1. The overall length of the overalls is 54-55 cm (based on rough calculations: maximum height minus the height of the child’s head = 74 cm - 20 cm = 54 cm)
2. Length of the trouser leg along the inner seam is approx. 20 cm, which means our knitting needs to be divided into trouser legs at a height of 35 cm, maybe a little lower, taking into account diapers - 36 cm
3. Step increases (gusset) in height are approx. 2 cm, i.e. 36 - 2 = 34 cm is full length knitting from the neckline, measured along the back (there the length of the jumpsuit is longer due to the additional rows knitted)
4. Since we have a zipper in the front, in order for it to look beautiful, we need to make minimal recesses for it, literally 0.8 cm on each side of the shelves.
For such manipulations we knit as follows:
knitted in a straight line to 32-33 cm,


then at the beginning and at the end of the front row, 2 air loops were added on each side.




Then we continue to knit 4 rows in a straight line; in the last purl row, mark the middle of the knitting with a marker.


We begin to knit a step bevel (gusset)
1st row: all persons. to the penultimate loop from the marker, knit two knits from the penultimate loop. loops from one, k1, transfer the marker to the right needle, k1, k2. loops from one, then all persons. to the end of the row
Row 2: purl all
Row 3: knit the edge, knit 2 from the next stitch. From one, from the next loop, knit 2 again. from one, then persons. to the penultimate stitch from the marker, from which knit 2. loops, k1, transfer the marker to the right needle, k1, k2. loops from one, then all persons. to the third loop from the edge. From the third loop from the edge, knit 2 knits. From one, from the penultimate loop, knit 2 knits. loops from one, chrome.
4th row: chrome. knit purl, then purl all stitches to the end of the row
5th row: chrome. knit, knit 2 from the next stitch. from one, then all persons. to the penultimate stitch from the marker, from which knit 2. from one, k1, transfer the marker to the right needle. 1 person, 2 person. from one, then all persons. to the penultimate loop from the edge, from which knit 2 knits. from one, chrome.
6th row: chrome. knit purl, then purl all the way to the end of the row
In the center it looks like this:


From the edges like this:

7th row: close 4 loops at the same time, then all knits. to the marker.

This “triangle” of increase then forms a gusset when sewn together.
Divide the knitting into two parts according to the marker, remove the second part of the loops (after the marker) for additional stitches. knitting needles or pin. Unfold the knitting and now knit each leg separately.
Don’t forget to cross the two outer loops together when dividing them into parts so that they don’t stretch out.


8th row: bind off 4 loops at the same time, then purl everything. to the end of the row
Row 9: knit the first two loops together, then all knit stitches. to the end of the row
Row 10: knit the first two stitches together purlwise, then purl all the way through. to the end of the row
It turns out like this:

And now we knit the pant leg down. If you need wide pants, then you don’t have to make any decreases or narrow them towards the bottom. If, on the contrary, you need narrower pants, then evenly reduce the number of loops.
If you want WITHOUT seams, then from now on we switch to knitting the trouser leg on 5 knitting needles.
I knit with a minimal stitch - up to the cuff, and the elastic cuff itself is already in the round on 5 knitting needles.
Whichever one you prefer is up to your wishes.
The optimal number of loops on the cuff to fit the leg without tightening it is 40-44. This means that if you want a wide trouser leg and a narrow elastic band, then knit without decreasing until you switch to elastic, then in the first front row, immediately reduce the elastic to the required amount. If you need to smoothly narrow the trouser leg, then we make decreases “in a spiral”, that is, decrease evenly from each of the four knitting needles through each row. If we knit with a seam, then accordingly we decrease smoothly along the edges of the knitting, knitting 2 stitches together after the edge.
Here are the resulting pants:


One is sewn along the inner seam, the other is not yet.

I knitted it like this: after all the increases and decreases for the step bevel (10 rows above), then continue to knit 15 knit rows (30 rows in total) with stockinette stitch, decreased 4 loops, knitting 2 stitches together twice from each edge. Then she transferred the loops to stocking needles No. 2, decreasing another loop at the junction of the knitting in the circle. There are 11 loops on each knitting needle (44 loops in total), then knit 11 circular rows, unfolding the loop (i.e., knitting behind the front wall). Next, knit 3 rows with a double hollow elastic band. In a circle it's like this:
Row 1: knit only knit stitches, remove purl stitches, leaving behind the working thread.
2nd row: knit only purl stitches, slip knit stitches, working thread behind loop
Row 3: knit stitches behind the front wall, as in row 1
In the 4th row, close by machine

We also knit the second leg, starting from the 7th row of the step bevel.
If you knit with a seam, then sew along the inside of the legs along the front side of the product with a vertical knitted seam.
Extend the seam of the second leg to the height of the recess for the zipper, or if knitted in the round, sew a seam from the center of the connection of the legs to this height.

Sew the junction of the legs.


From the back it looks like this:


Between the legs:


The resulting “triangle” is a step increase (gusset):


Well, the general view:


We knit further.
I’m used to knitting the sleeves last, so I won’t deviate from my rules - hood first.
The initially cast-on loops from the second knitting needles (if you closed them, you need to unravel them to the 1st row) knit three rows with a 1x1 elastic band. To ensure that the hood is not too large, the approximate total number of loops should be in the range of 58-64. For this yarn and this knitting density!!! I reduced the 1st row to 61 loops, simply knitting 2 stitches together through an equal number of loops.
Now about the ties. There are 2 options possible - along the perimeter of the hood (as on the model), or along the neck. In the second case, the hood trim will be purely decorative.
If along the neckline, then in the 2nd row of 1x1 elastic we make lacing, knitting *2 sts, yarn over*, in the 3rd row we continue to knit with 1x1 elastic, knit yarn overs with a regular loop to form a hole. Subsequently, a string-tie is inserted into this lacing and the width of the neck of the overalls is adjusted, the hood will be without strings.
In this overalls, I make a hood around the circumference - we knit a drawstring harness, into which we then insert strings.
Further this way: so that later the hood harness is in its place and looks neat, we will make indentations on each edge where this harness will subsequently “fit”.
4th row: bind off the first 5 loops, then purl all the loops (I have this row on the wrong side of the product),
5th row: bind off the first 5 stitches, then knit all stitches.






Knit 2 rows in stockinette stitch
Now we knit a hood for both string options.
So, we knitted 2 rows in stockinette stitch. In order to avoid pulling the hood vertically, in the next front and back rows, knit shortened rows of 9 loops on each edge.
Persons row: chrome, k8, 1 st, remove, unroll the knitting, make an auxiliary yarn over, remove and purl all other loops to the end of the row. Knitting expand
Next knit row: chrome, all knits to the end of the row, knit an auxiliary yarn over with the next loop
Repeat the same steps on the purl side.


Next, we knit 3 front rows (6 rows) in a straight line and repeat the shortened rows along the edges for 4 loops. We continue to knit in stockinette stitch in a straight line until the height of the hood along the back from the neckline is 17 cm.

We divide the knitting into three parts and begin to knit the rounding according to the principle of the heel and toe. I have 53 loops, parts 18+17+18 loops. So that the depth of the hood is not too great, I knit 2 stitches 4-5 times together from the left knitting needle.
The result is a hood like this: the height along the face is 20-21 cm, the depth along the line of closing the loops is 10 cm.



Now the strapping.
Along the edge of the hood from the beginning of the recesses for the binding (i.e., only along the vertical part of the hood), we collect loops from the front side of the product. I got 94 loops.

And knit with an elastic band 1x1 in a straight line of 5 cm, bind off all the loops at the same time.


Next, bend the knitted strip in half inward

and sew with a needle to the cast-on edge,

At the same time, connect the upper half of the plank along the outside with the edge of the recess,

and on the inside there should be a hollow part.

The drawstring is ready. The hood is tied. The width of the hood together with the strap is 16.5 - 17 cm. All that remains is to pass the drawstring cord inside, but that will come later during assembly.


Sleeves. Pick up 4 to 8 stitches along the undercut line, transfer the stitches to stocking needles and knit in stockinette stitch to the cuff.
I have 8 loops cast on (33 + 8 = 41 stitches),


but in the first row, to make the edge look more neat, knit only one cast-on loop on each side of the cast-on and one stitch from a pin together. 2 loops will decrease, leaving 39 loops on the knitting needles.

In the last 6 rows before the cuff, I decreased 3 more stitches, up to 36. Rib 1x1 using knitting needles No. 2, last 3 rows with double hollow ribbing, bind off using the “machine” method.

We have finished knitting the jumpsuit.


Now assembly..
We sew in a zipper. I first baste with pins, then immediately sew a backstitch (or machine stitch) along the front side of the product. Then, on the wrong side of the product, for additional fixation and a beautiful design, I sew a zipper along the edge of the fabric base with an overcast stitch.
This is a sewn-in zipper without a top decorative trim:

This is the view from the inside:

Next we make the strapping along the top. I crochet *2 VP, connect. column* along the entire perimeter of the zipper.




A small nuance - so that the ends of the zipper don’t scratch the baby’s neck and chin, I “extend” the binding, i.e. I knit an additional 3 VPs and knit a square of 3 DC in 2 rows, sew it with a needle on top of the “spiky” plastic part of the zipper and the problem is solved .

Finished the strapping. There are ties left - crochet 60-70 cm long, put through the drawstring. If lacing was initially done along the neck, then accordingly it should be done in it. Place plastic ends on the ends.

That's it, the jumpsuit is ready. All that remains is to wash, lay out beautifully and dry.
In finished form, the dimensions are as follows: length from shoulder to bottom - 56 cm, vertical armhole height - 10.5 cm, sleeve length from the neck along the outer fold - 27 cm, along the inside - 14 cm, leg length along the inner seam - 20 cm, width along the chest line at the armhole level - 28 cm, width of the trouser leg - 13 cm, height of the hood along the trim - 21 cm.
Yarn consumption - 210 g (from the 5th skein I literally took 50 g for tying zippers and ties)
Well, this is what it looks like. My "girl" is approx. 70-71 cm, quite well-fed. The hood can be pulled deeper and secured with strings, and the arms and legs still have one and a half to two cm of length left for growth, just up to 9 - 9.5 months.

This is my first experience in pattern modeling, so if something is incorrect, I will be glad to hear your comments.

We will build a pattern based on two patterns:

Patterns for a warm blouse, size 92:

· patterns for children's sweatpants, size 92: .

Part 1. Construction of a denim overalls pattern

Step 1. Take a pattern for the back and front of a warm blouse. On the back pattern, fold along the dotted line. This will be the shoulder on the back. We finish the bent piece on the shelf. We get a new shoulder line on the shelf. We draw a new line for the neckline of the back and front, departing from the old line half the width of the collar by 1.7 cm (a collar is provided on the pattern of a warm blouse).

Step 2.Determine the waist line. To do this, take a measurement of the length of the back Dc: the distance from the 7th cervical vertebra along the spine to the waist line.

· AB= Dc + 1 cm. I got 22 + 1 = 23 cm. Draw a horizontal line BV.

· Connect the dots using a smooth curve BG.

o VG= 1.5 cm for height 80-98.

o VG= 1 cm for height 104-116.

o VG= 0.5 cm for height 122-152 cm.

Step 3. Add 3 cm to the waist line. Next, randomly draw the straps, front, back, and back yoke. I started drawing from the front strap. From the point D lowered a straight line vertically downwards (in Fig. green), retreated 3 cm, drew a strap. On the back I drew the top line of the strap (in blue in the picture). I stepped back 3 cm from the straight line and drew a strap.

Step 4. We cut out the parts and cut them along the red outline.

Step 5.We turn the front strap over, apply it to the back strap, as shown in the figure, and add another 10 cm of strap.

Step 6. We take pants patterns without a belt, since our waistline is low. We adjust the length of the waist line of the front half of the pants until it is equal to the length of the waist line of the front. We lengthen the trouser leg by the size of the cuff and widen it towards the bottom.

Step 7 Add 0.5 cm along the side seam on loose fit.

Step 8 We draw the line of entry into the pocket, the burlap of the pocket.

Step 9 We draw a pocket on the front part and a facing.

Step 10 Glue the back and back part of the pants (without the belt). Adjust the length of the waistline of the back half of the pants until it is equal to the length of the back waistline. We lengthen the trouser leg by the size of the cuff and widen it towards the bottom.

Step 11 Add 0.5 cm along the side seam for a loose fit. Draw the back pocket.

We translate and cut out all the details of the overalls. This is what we should get:

The patterns are ready, but before you start sewing from the main fabric, it is better to sew a test version from some unnecessary fabric. It is enough to cut out the front part, the front half (one-piece with a side) and the back half, try it on and, if necessary, make changes to the pattern.

Part 2. Sewing denim overalls

To sew the overalls I needed:

· constructed pattern of overalls size 92;

· 80 cm of stretch denim with a width of 150 cm;

· fabric for burlap pocket (I used calico);

· bias tape for processing pockets 30 cm;

Contrasting threads for topstitching seams;

· 2 buckles for straps;

· 6 denim buttons;

· 4 button anorak;

· 2 blocks;

· 1 thermal sticker.

Step 1. We cut out the details of the overalls from the main fabric; I cut out the burlap pockets from calico. Denim loose, so allowances must be made at least 1 cm. For seam allowances, see fig.

Don’t forget to mirror the front hem allowance (indicated in the figure blue)! I made all other seam allowances 1 cm each. I also additionally cut out 2 side pockets with folds.

Step 2. I took the processing of pockets from Nina Kuznetsova’s master class “Sew denim shorts” ().

We apply burlap as in the photo from the wrong side.

On the front side we adjust the bias tape, pulling it a little at the bend. Due to tension, the facing itself rises upward. If necessary, notch the allowance at the corners.

Step 3.We turn the pocket entrance allowance inside out along with the facing. We baste, forming a roll of the main fabric to the wrong side of 1-2 mm.

Step 4.We put 2 finishing lines on the front side. I have on sewing machine There is a special line that imitates a hand stitch, which is what I used for stitching.

The advantage of this treatment is that the entrance to the pocket is springy: the bias facing keeps the rounding of the entrance to the pocket from stretching, but at the same time gives freedom for the edge to expand as the hand enters.

Step 5. We put the barrel on, pin it only to the burlap of the pocket.

Step 6.We sew a line and overlay the edge.

Step 7 In places where the barrel overlaps the front half, we lay a running stitch.

Step 8 We overstitch the hem allowance at the front pocket and press all the allowances. Use a finishing stitch to sew the top hem allowance.

Step 9 Iron the hem allowance at the front, pin the pocket and sew two finishing lines, thereby sewing the pocket.

Step 10 Place the front halves right sides together. We lay a line, overlay it.

Iron the seam allowance onto one of the halves and add finishing stitches to the front side.

Step 11 Place the front of the front halves of the pants on the front side and pin them together.

Turn it over. We combine the wrong side of the front halves of the pants with the top of the facing, pin it together, and sew a stitch.

Step 12 Iron the seam allowance toward the front.

Step 13 Iron the top edge of the front facing.

We put finishing stitches on the front side, thereby sewing on the facing. We cut off the bumps on the sides.

Step 14 We cut out facings for processing the sides and fasteners of the front half of the overalls. Place the piece on a piece of fabric. We outline with chalk. At the top, the facing does not reach the folded edge of the front by 2 cm, and at the bottom it ends just below the entrance to the pocket.

We finish drawing the second side of the facing (the approximate width is indicated in the photo).

Cut out the facings. This is what should happen in the end.

Step 15 We overlay the front hem and the inside facings. We apply the facings as shown in the photo, sew a line, and press the seam allowances towards the facing.

Step 16We apply facings to the front side of the front part and sew a stitch.Very important: you need to finish the stitch smoothly, not reaching about 1 cm from the entrance to the pocket! We cut the corners as shown in the photo.

Step 17 We turn the facings inside out, sew out the edge, and iron it. We put finishing stitches on the front side.

Step 18 Let's start processing the back pockets. We overcast the hem allowance, iron it to the wrong side, and put a finishing stitch on the right side. Iron the remaining allowances. We sew a random pattern on the pockets, making it symmetrical if possible.

Step 19 We pin the pockets to the back halves. We lay finishing stitches, thereby sewing on the pockets. At the top of the pockets we lay a narrow and frequent zigzag stitch, thereby making fastenings.

Step 20. We overlay the “rounded” side edge at the back halves, iron the hem allowance to the wrong side. We put finishing stitches on the front side.

Step 21 Let's start making the back facings of the fastener. From the main fabric we cut out 2 rectangles, length: the size of the red arrow in the photo + 1 cm, width 11 cm.

Fold the rectangle in half widthwise front side inside. We put a stitch at one end. We turn it inside out and set it aside. We overlay the second end.

Step 22 We apply facings to the front part of the overalls, as shown in the photo. We pin them with pins.

Step 23 Place the back halves on the front half of the overalls with pinned facings, aligning them as shown in the photo.

We pin with a pin in the place where the front half, the front facing, the back facing of the fastener and the back half touch.

Step 24 We sew a line: 2.5 - 3 cm above the pin and 1 - 1.5 cm below the pin.

Step 25 We remove all the pins and again chop off the back facing of the fastener and the back half. And continue stitching up the side seam.

Step 26Place a stitch down the side seam and overlay. Press the seam allowance onto the back half. We put finishing stitches on the front side.

Step 27 We pin the front part of the overalls and the back facing of the fastener with pins. We fasten with a narrow and frequent zigzag stitch in the place where the front and back parts “meet”. We unscrew the front part, combine the front facing and the back facing of the fastener and make a tack.

Step 28 We sew and cut the loops on the front half. Usually there are 2 - 3 loops on denim bib overalls.

Step 29Let's start processing the side pockets. Use chalk to transfer the fold lines. We process the top of the pocket in the same way as other pockets. Iron the pocket along the fold lines. Iron the remaining allowances.

We pin the pocket in the right place along the side seam. Be careful: the pocket flap will be located about 1 cm higher. Do not touch the burlap pocket with its stitching, otherwise the pocket will be less deep! Sew the pocket with finishing stitches. We make fastenings at the top of the pocket.

Important positive side jumpsuit is that there is no need to select the top or bottom of the wardrobe, everything is connected together. At first, overalls were made in America for pilots as a uniform. Then women with children liked this form of clothing. Stores began selling overalls for boys. After some time, they appeared in the wardrobes of women and girls.

Jumpsuit can be worn anywhere

You can wear it for a walk, in the office, on a date, even to a celebration. For every occasion, you can choose a stylish option.

Alessandra Ambrosio

For example, a denim jumpsuit can be worn for a walk or to go shopping in it.

Gigi Hadid

Red jumpsuit with trousers made in classic style, can be purchased for dinner at a restaurant.

Complete the “ensemble” with stiletto heels high heels and add stylish decorations.

How to wear a jumpsuit correctly:

• — Choose a jumpsuit model that is sized so that it does not hang on your figure or cut into your body.

• — If a girl has wide shoulders and narrow hips, then it is better to wear a jumpsuit without straps and with wide trousers. A belt will help accentuate the waist.
• — Women with large figures should purchase the option with wide trousers.
• — When it’s cool outside, the overalls are complemented with a cardigan, midi-coat, trench coat, but you don’t need to button up such wardrobe items.

• — For the evening, choose the option with a low back neckline.
• — To create an emphasis on the waist, you need to gird yourself.

What not to do

To look luxurious in a jumpsuit, you should follow some rules:

• - a model with narrow trousers should not be worn with shoes on flat sole;
• - do not add anything unnecessary to the “ensemble” so that the image does not turn out to be multi-layered (overloaded);

• — the drawing, if any, should not be large;
• — accessories can be in the same tone as the overalls.

Suitable for the event

The main thing is not to forget that the model must correspond to the event you are going to.

If the jumpsuit is made in a free style (laces, fringe), long sleeves, a rough model, then it will fit into your everyday wardrobe.

And to the exit to evening time For example, when going to a restaurant, they wear a plain one, which can be complemented with large jewelry. Accessories can be added to a monochromatic outfit without fear of ruining it.

Frame Fall 2017 Ready collection