How to cut women's trousers. Pattern of women's skinny summer trousers: construction. Modeling the front half of the drawing

Shopping, choosing a style and model that will fit and fit perfectly, unreasonably high prices in stores - these and many other problems are experienced by most girls. Some give up in search of exactly their model, others buy for a lot of money, and still others go and buy fabric to sew something that will fit perfectly.

What is a base pattern and where can I find it?

To sew a product you need a sample. This layout is called a pattern.

Pattern – details of clothing that are made on the basis of a drawing. It consists of several parts, the choice of which depends on what needs to be sewn. It is very convenient to use such a base for creating small details.

There are several patterns on one sheet. You can find exactly your model along specially marked lines.

The details that are indicated on the base may not always fit perfectly, which is absolutely normal. In this case, the owner herself customizes the item to suit herself. The main thing is to take the basis for what needs to be sewn.

Often patterns can be found in specialized magazines such as Burda, or on the Internet.

Required Tools

To make the job easier, there are many craft supplies available.

When creating trousers use:

• paper for redrawing the pattern;
• chalk or pencil;
• needles;
• threads of the desired color;
• tape-centimeter;
• sewing machine;
• bias tape or overlock to finish the edges;
• other small details necessary for the design of the model: zipper, buttons, elastic band, etc.

How to take measurements?

The first thing you need to start with is taking measurements. To ensure accurate measurements, it is better to take them in underwear. The main tool at this stage will be a centimeter tape, with which you need to take measurements:

• waist circumference (at the narrow part of the waist);
• hip circumference (over a wide area);
• side length (interval along the side of the leg from the waist to the end of the leg);
• seat height (measurements are taken while sitting and look at the interval from the waist to the seat of the chair);
• knee height (along the side from the waist line to the middle of the kneecap);
• step length (with legs slightly apart, measured from the groin of the inner thigh to the floor).

To learn how to take measurements correctly, watch the following video.

Techniques for creating a drawing

Italian

A step-by-step explanation of how to sew trousers - great support for beginning seamstresses.

One of the most accessible is drawing instructions basic pattern using Italian technology.

This technique is perfect for sewing trousers for women who have a strong back curve. This problem is solved by shifting the side seam to the center of the back area by 1 cm. Due to this, the model will sit at the waist and on the hips.

This technology considers the production of straight women's trousers.

The first thing you need to do is take measurements. In addition to the usual measurements, do:

• increase in waist;
• increase in hips. Their level depends on how tight the product will be.

It is worth going from the front panel of the trousers:

• Mark A is fixed in the top right corner. From this point, two more marks are drawn one after another. From mark B in the left direction a line equal to 1⁄4 (hip circumference + PB) is drawn and mark B1 is made, and 0.5 from B is mark B2.
• To the left of C, a thread equal to BB1 is drawn - C1. And on the right is 1/20 of the hip circumference – C2.
• Now you need to connect A, B2 and C2. The middle seam will come out.

• From mark A, mark A1 is drawn and marked - 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3 centimeters. 1 centimeter is drawn from this mark and designated A2.
• Next, A2, B1, C1 are connected.
• In the middle of C1C2, mark D is placed. From it, a perpendicular to A1A is drawn to the upper section, and mark E is designated. From this boundary, BK is calculated downwards, a line is drawn and it is marked D1. The length of the trouser leg is calculated from the marked mark. This will be the F boundary.
• Lines equal to 1/2 the circumference of the knee are drawn to the right and left directions from D1. Right mark D3, left mark D2.
• Points F1F2 are constructed on the sides of mark F. They are equal to the distance of line D2D3.
• Now you need to connect the marks C2, D2, F2 - this is the internal seam. When connecting C1, D3, F1, an external seam is formed. And the line D, D1, F made earlier will be the middle of these two seams.

• To get a front dart, you need to set aside 1 centimeter from mark E in both directions and mark these points E1, E2. From the main mark E, go down 10 centimeters and mark E3. Connect the constructed points.
• To make the front part ready, you need to draw lines from A2 to E1, from E1 to E3, from E3 to E2, from E2 to A.

The back side is built on the drawing of the front part:

• To avoid confusing the lines, use chalk, pencil or marker of different colors.
• A segment of 1/2 AE + 2 centimeters is measured from line A on the left side and marked with a mark H. An indent of 2 centimeters is made from this mark and a line marked H1 is drawn.
• Now you need to measure 1/2 of the hip circumference and place C3 from point C to the left. Next, make a straight line from this point to H1.
• From C3, make a line to the right equal to 1/10 of the hip circumference, and mark C4.
• Now you should return to line A. Make an Italian shift of the side seam: from H to 1/4 of the waist circumference - 1 centimeter + 2 centimeters and mark H2. A perpendicular line is drawn from it up 1 cm and H3 is placed, connecting to H1.
• Next, draw the direction to L. It is obtained by crossing B1B2 and H1C3.
• A smooth guide 1/4 of the hip circumference to L1 is drawn to the left section from mark L.
• To get the outer seam you need to connect H3, L1. To form the middle seam, you need to draw a segment from L to C4.
• Next, sections of the knee and bottom are made based on the back half. To do this, you need to move 1.5 cm away from the marks D2, D3, F1, F2 and label them G, G1, F3, F4. To obtain a back and front seam, make a smooth line between L1, G, F3 and C4, G1, F4.
• If a recess is formed on the back, you need to turn to H1H3. Mark point M in the middle. Move 1 cm away from it in both directions and place 14 cm down parallel to H1 L. M1, M2, N are formed.

You need to complete the pattern by checking the length on the inside and outside seams. If it matches, then you can proceed directly to sewing.

According to Muller

Among the simplest technologies, there is a construction scheme according to Muller. This technique is a construction for beginners.

The pattern is based on a standard pants model.

• The main basis of the drawing is a vertical straight line, on which segments 1 and 2 are highlighted. The length of the segments depends on the shape of the hips. On average you can measure 1.5 cm.
• BC is measured by boundaries 1 and 3. VC is marked by points 3, 4. The length from the side to the foot is indicated by marks 1-5.
• 5 and 6 will indicate the measurement that corrects the length, the choice of which is dependent on the model and the height of the heel.
• Marks 3-7 indicate the hip area. Next, build straight lines from marks 2, 7, 3, 4, 6 to the right.
• The width of the front leg section is noted in paragraphs 7-8. The width of the front half, measured 1\10 of half OB + 1 cm, is recorded in marks 8-9. To get marks 8a and 10, you need to draw a line through mark 8.

• On line 7-9 you need to find the middle and place mark 11. Next you need to mark the segment 6-12. It will match 7-11.
• To get the middle of the front half, you need to form from the waist mark through marks 13 and 14 at the intersection with the knee and waist marks.
• From 15-16, make a straight line equal to 4-8 centimeters and mark points 15a and 16a. To align the corners at marks 15a and 16a, you need to combine 7 and 15a, 9 and 16a. After this, the marks will be 17, 18, 19.
• Row 10-20, which determines the deviation of the bow cutting paths of the front leg area, is 1 cm.
• From mark 8, make a mark to the right, 0.5 centimeters long. Draw a straight line through this mark and boundary 20. 8a and 8b are equal to half of the segment 8a-17. Next, draw an additional segment 8b-17.

Now you need to make the front cut line:

• Make a short segment from it to the waist mark. The distance between the intersection of the straight line and the waist mark corresponds to 3-5 cm on the right side of the main vertical line. To achieve the desired shape at the border of the knees, it is worth varying the distance between marks 18 and 23 and marks 19 and 24 from 0 to 1 cm.
• The side cut line is formed by a curve using connections 22, 7, 3a, 23, 15a, 15.
• The step cut line is made by connecting points 17, 24, 16a, 16.
• The segment 14-22 should be divided into two parts; for this you need to draw a straight line to the hip mark.

The back half of the trouser leg is built on the basis of the front:

• From mark 11 you should make point 25, for this you need to move 1-2 cm to the right. Next, make a straight line from 25. The distance from this point to the future mark will be 1/4 of the width of the butt. This point will be called 26. The line of the middle cut of the butt is determined by the interval between marks 3a and 27. This segment takes 3-5 cm.
• Next, combine 26 and 27. From 26, make lines in the upper and lower directions.
• The waist and hip lines need to be increased. At the waist, make a path to the left. At the hips to the right and left.
• Move section 26-27 upward until it touches the straight line of the hips and mark there 28-29.
• Next, draw 2 straight lines from the bottom to the knee on both sides of the fold at a distance of 2 cm from each other. This is how points 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a are formed.
• To form mark 35, you need to make a line from mark 32 through 29 until it touches the waist area.
• Combine mark 31 with 30. Depending on the shape of the buttocks, make the interval between marks 13 and 36 equal to 13-35 minus 0-1 cm. Merge 35-36 together.
• From mark 36, make a segment with a distance of 0.5-1 cm in the left direction to 36-35. This results in mark 37. At this stage, you can begin to design the upper border of the middle cut of the trousers. To do this, you need to combine 37 38. The distance between these marks will be equal to 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3-4 cm + 0.5 cm.
• Next, draw a straight line from 38 to the top. Here you can draw the border of the side cut of the butt. This length is equal to the length of the front area of ​​the trousers.
• It is necessary to arrange a tuck. It must be marked on the rear section perpendicular to the line 36-35. The length should be 13-15 centimeters.
• At this stage it is necessary to form the threads of the step cut and waist. The lengths of the step cut of the back and front should be equal. You should start making the middle cut.

In this case, the step is to compare the two parts, adjusting the border of the waist cut and darts.

How to increase the pattern to the desired size, how to reduce it?

Ready-made patterns always made in accordance with the standard figure. But don’t be upset, because you can increase or decrease it to a specific size.

You should carefully examine the back and front legs and cut along a vertical line in the middle and move them apart by 0.5-1 cm to enlarge. To reduce it, move the parts by 0.5-1 cm.

To increase the length in the pattern, you need to add 2-3 centimeters from the bottom. To see how this is done, watch the video.

Ideal fit of trousers: adjustment rules

Ideal trousers are their perfect fit, which can hide figure imperfections and correct them somewhere. But hand-sewn trousers are not always perfect. To do this, you need to refer to the adjustment rules.

Usually problems arise in the thigh area. For example, if a girl has full hips, this promotes the formation of folds. To get rid of creases, you can lightly work on the pattern. In front of the trousers, it is necessary to make two segments 10-15 centimeters above the step line by 2-3 cm and 10 cm below. Next compare the results obtained. Cut according to the marks. Place the resulting part in the left area by 1-3 centimeters and mark this side border. The same must be done with the rear section.

With skinny legs creates an image of baggyness. This can be avoided by removing excess volume. It is necessary to measure the OH from above and compare the resulting figure with the value on the pattern. Next, calculate the difference between the two numbers, and set aside 1/4 of the calculated value for the side and step areas of the back and front and thereby shorten the width of the trouser leg in the area of ​​​​the girth of the leg at the top.

With insufficient volume of the buttocks A large accumulation of material is formed. To make the adjustment, you need to reduce the waistline by the required amount and reduce the LW in the back area.

To get rid of wrinkles under the buttocks, you need to work with ready-made trousers:

1. On finished product you need to pin the excess fabric into one fold on one of the trouser legs from the side seam to the middle one. This fold needs to be removed.
2. Next, open the middle seam in the area from the step line to the waistband.
3. Next, connect the two trouser legs with the outer parts.
4. When comparing the excess on an unpinned pant leg, move it up along the middle seam.
5. The new border should be moved to the other half of the leg at the bottom.
6. Next, sew the middle seam along the new line, and cut off the excess in the allowance. And remove the excess length in the waist area.

In the opposite situation - protruding gluteal area, folds and creases form in its lower part. To correct this problem, you need to measure 11 cm from the step line on the top and bottom sides on the back of the pants and draw 2 parallel ones of 12-15 centimeters each. Then combine their ends. Using the resulting features, cut the pattern. Shift the cut to the right literally 1-3 cm and create segments for the middle seam of the back and step.

Modeling Basics

Low waist

Modeling makes it possible to create the perfect pants, taking into account any particular figure. All models are formed on the basis of a standard trouser pattern.

1. Before you start modeling the low-waist option, you need to move 2 cm away from the waist on both sides. Then you need to make a new lower border and cut along it.
2. When creating the front part of a tapered model, first you need to narrow the trousers at the bottom to about 14 cm. Based on your height, shorten them according to the required measurement. Next, you need to determine the area of ​​entry into the pocket. To do this, measure 4 cm to the right along the waist and 14 cm down. The resulting dart needs to be converted into a fold. For the zipper you need an increase of 3-4 cm in width and 14 cm in length.
3. To obtain additional volume in the area of ​​the hips and the second fold, you need to cut the pattern along the arrow line and spread it apart by 4 cm.
4. To create the back of the trousers, you need to narrow it by 15 cm and reduce it. The width of the back leg reaches 1-2 cm.

With smell

Creating trousers requires the formation of the posterior lobe:

• Therefore, you should measure 5 cm down from the waist and draw a low section.
• Draw the yoke from the already updated waist contour. Its parts should be cut off, cut along the grooves and everything should be glued together. Its top and bottom should be rounded.
• Tapering the legs at the bottom and at the knee also depends on personal desires.
• When modeling the front part, you should reduce the waist border by 5-6 cm. Next, narrow it in the knee area and below. Draw the lines of two seams: side and step. Next, transfer the front onto tracing paper twice. Fold the two halves along the middle line of the front.
• To continue modeling, move 5 cm from the side line to the left and move 14 cm down.

• To create a smell, you need to split the front in half along the waist section. Step back 10 cm from the knee area and connect the created marks with a line. Create a scent strip from the resulting mixture.
• All red and lilac details must be re-shot on tracing paper. Display the red triangle as a mirror image in the left area. The lilac part needs to be combined with a red triangle. Along the side line and waist, all straight lines and round the corners.
• Additionally, design two parts of the belt with a width of 5 cm and a length corresponding to the length of the upper part of the trousers.

For pregnant

For full

The production of trousers for plus size people begins with the front pattern:

1. On the vertical segment, set aside the seat height (points 1-2), VK (1-3), DB (3-4), create the desired length (1-5), half hip circumference + 3 cm (5-6) and hip line ( 3-7), front half width (7-8), hip half circumference + 1.5 cm (8-9).
2. Make a segment at marks 2, 3, 4, 7. Make a perpendicular to the thigh area from mark 8. In contact with the BC and waist, mark 8a and 10.
3. From mark 12, make a straight line through 11. When crossing the knee and waist marks, put 13 and 14.
4. From 12, measure 4-8 cm into the upper area and mark 15a and 16a. Combine marks 7 and 15a, 9 and 16a. Against this background, do 3a, 17, 18, 19.
5. From 8 in the right direction measure 0.5 cm. Measure half of segment 8a-17 from 8a upward and thereby get 8b. Combine the resulting mark with 17.
6. Mark 21 is formed from 10 by deposition of 1/4 OT + increase for dart and loose fit. If you move 1.5 cm away from the top edge straight to the waist, you get 22.
7. Within the line of the knee, measure 1 cm from the ends to the inside - marks 23, 24. Mark the segments of the side and step cuts.
8. The recess should be built to a depth of 10 cm and a gap of 1.5 cm. Finally, complete the creation of the waist.

When converting the back side, you need to copy the front half and add adjustments:

• Measure the rear fold area from mark 11 by 1-2 cm. From 25, make the width of the rear half - 0.5 cm. Mark 27 is formed by depositing 3-5 cm from point 3a. Close marks 26 and 27.
• The hips and waistline need to be increased. Make the width of the back leg from 28 to the point of contact with the thigh area.
• 31, 32, 33, 33a, 34, 34a are made by drawing the lines of the side and step sections two cm from the front sections.
• The path from 32 through 29 to the waist creates mark 35. Connect 35 with 36 and set aside 1 cm to the left. This makes 37. From this point, measure 1/4 of the waist circumference + 3-4 cm of dart + 0.5 cm of increase for a loose fit . Point 38 is marked here.
• It is necessary to move the side cut lines of the front side to part of the side cut of the back half.
• The dart is built with a length of 13-15 cm. Finally, you need to complete the middle waist area with a cut of the back section of the trousers.

How to sew it yourself?

Many girls are wary of sewing trousers, considering this product to be difficult. One thing that is difficult is possible. You need to start with measurements. To ensure that your pants fit perfectly, you need to take your measurements correctly. Measurements must be taken from a naked body. Press the measuring tape tightly against your body.

Based on your own measurements, you can start creating a pattern. When creating a pattern, you use your own measurements and values ​​that were obtained using calculations using your own measurements.

Once the base of the pattern is ready, you can begin modeling. To do this, you need to choose a model of pants or trousers and, using ready-made samples presented in magazines and the Internet, create your own style.

Then you need to choose the fabric. All materials with elastane are suitable for trousers. You can also use wool, satin and linen.

It is recommended to iron the fabric before sewing.

All that remains is to cut out the details and sew.

This technique suggests the following loose-fitting increases:
In this example, we will use increases for tight-fitting pants.

Let's move on to building the front half of the trousers
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper that is 10-15 cm larger than the length measurement of the product.

Drawing grid
Stepping back from the top edge of the paper 5-10cm and from the left edge 10-15cm, draw a vertical segment TN equal to the measurement of the length of the product:

TN = Di,

(segment TN=Di=100cm).
Seat line level: from point T down, set aside the measurement of seat height + CO and mark point I:

TY = Sun + CO,

(ТЯ = 29 + 0 = 29cm).
Hip line level we find by the formula:

YaB = 1/3 x TYA,

we put the resulting value upward from point I and put point B (YB = 29: 3 = 9.7 cm).
Knee line level: down from point T, set aside the measurement Dtk and mark point K:

TK = Dtk

(TK = 58.5 cm).
Now let's draw horizontal lines from each point: T, B, Z, K and N.

Width at hip line
We will find this value using the formula:

BB 1 = 0.5 x (Sat + CO) - k,

k = 1 cm - for small volumes;


Let us plot the resulting value from point B to the right horizontally and place point B 1
(BB 1 = 0.5 x (43.5 + 0.5) - 1 = 21cm).

B 1 B 0 = 0.15 x Sat + 1.5 + 0.25 x CO,

where CO is the increase for a loose fit to the Sb measurement (see table),
(B 1 B 0 = 0.15 x 43.5 + 1.5 + 0.25 x 0.5 = 8.2 cm).
Through point B 0 we draw a vertical line up and down until it intersects with all the horizontal lines; we denote the intersection points as T 0, I 0, K 0 and H 0, respectively.

0.5 x Shn - k, where

k = 1 cm - for small volumes;
k = 0.5 cm - for trousers of moderate volume;
k = 0 - for voluminous loose trousers.
We will put the resulting value to the right and left of the point H 0 and mark the points H 1 and H 2
(H 1 H 0 = H 0 H 2 = 0.5 x 16 - 1 = 7 cm).

T 1 T 10 = Dsb - Dsp,

at positive result we put this value down from point T 1;
if negative - up from point T 1 and mark point T 10
(T 1 T 10 = 106 - 103.5 = 2.5 cm).

For checkered, striped and unruly fabrics, when ironing, the hem line is left horizontal.

Total size of darts on the front half
We find the amount of darts in the front half using the formula:

S = T 2 T 10 (or T 2 T 11) - 0.5 x (St + CO) - k,

where CO is the increase in loose fitting to the St measurement (see table), and where k = 0.5-1.5 cm is the fit at the waist.

1) If the total amount of darts in the front half is no more than 3 cm, then we design one dart on the axis line, placing half of the result in each direction along the waist line from the point of intersection with the axis line.
The length of the dart is 8-13cm, where longer lengths are taken at flat stomach, and smaller ones - with protruding.

For trousers that are voluminous in the upper part, the total amount of darts on the front half is determined by the formula:

S = T 2 T 10 (or T 2 T 11) - 0.5 x (St + CO),

i.e. without taking into account the fit at the waist.

This completes the construction of the front half of the trousers.

Shzp = (Sb + CO) - BB 1,

where CO is the increase for a loose fit to the Sb measurement (see table)
Шзп = (43.5 + 0.5) - 21 = 23cm.
Total step width for the front and back halves of the trousers we find using the formula:

Step = 0.4 x (Sat + CO) - k,

where CO is the increase for a loose fit to the Sb measurement (see table), and where
k = 1 cm - for trousers of moderate and large volumes along the hips;
k = 2 cm - for trousers of small volumes along the hips.
Step = 0.4 x (43.5 + 0.5) - 2 = 15.6 cm.
Calculate the step width of the rear half at hip level:

Shshaga zp = Shshaga - B 1 B 2,

where B 1 B 2 is the step width of the front half, the value of which will be measured according to the drawing.
Step zp = 15.6 - 4.6 = 11cm.

Step line position
From point B 0 to the right we plot the segment B 0 B 4, the length of which is found by the formula:

B 0 B 4 = (Shzp + Shshaga zp) / 2 + 0.5

(B 0 B 4 = (23 + 11) / 2 + 0.5 = 17.5 cm).

B 4 B 3 = Shshaga zp,

(B 4 B 3 = 11cm).
Through point B 3 we draw a vertical line until it intersects with the waist line; we denote the point of intersection as T 3.

T 3 T 31 = 0.1 x Sat - k, where

k = 1-1.5 cm - for trousers of small and moderate volume;
k = 2-3 cm - for voluminous trousers.
(T 3 T 31 = 0.1 x 43.5 - 1 = 3.4 cm).

B 3 B 31 = 0.05 x Sat - k, where

k = 0 - for trousers of small and moderate volume;
k = 0.5-2cm - for voluminous trousers.
(B 3 B 31 = 0.05 x 43.5 - 0 = 2.2 cm).

B 31 T 32 = B 1 T 10 (or B 1 T 11) + (Dsz - Dsp),

where the value of the segment B 1 T 10 (or B 1 T 11) is taken from the drawing of the front half of the trousers
(B 31 T 32 = 16.8 + (105.5 - 103.5) = 18.8 cm).

S = T 41 T 32 - 0.5 X (St + CO) - k,

where CO is the increase for a loose fit to the St measurement (see table), and where k = 0.5-1 cm is the fit at the waist.
1) If the size of the back dart opening is less than 5 cm, then we design one dart. We find the position of the rear dart axis using the formula:

T 32 T 5 = 0.4 x B 31 B 5.

Let's put the result obtained along the waist line to the left of point T 32 and place point T 5
(T 32 T 5 = 0.4 x 23 = 9.2).

T 32 T 5 = 0.4 x B 31 B 5;

We place the second dart 3-4 cm from the left side of the first dart. We draw the axes of both darts perpendicular to the segment T 32 T 41; dart lengths - 9-13cm.

0.5 x W + 0.2 cm,

we will put the resulting value on both sides of the point H 0 and put the points H 3 and H 4
(H 0 H 3 = H 0 H 4 = 0.5 x 16 + 0.2 = 8.2 cm).

Width at knee level
Let's calculate the width of the back half at knee level using the formula:

K 3 K 0 = K 0 K 4 = K 1 K 0 + k,

where K 1 K 0 - we take it from the drawing of the front half, and where
k = 2cm - for straight, slightly tapered trousers;
k = 2.5 cm - for trousers that are very tapered at the bottom.
Let's put the resulting result on both sides of the point K 0 and mark the points K 3 and K 4.

T 41 B 5 K 3 N 3 = T 2 BK 1 N 1.

middle line
To the left of point I 41 we draw a horizontal line until it intersects with straight line B 3 T 32; we denote the intersection point as I 3.

In this article we will teach you how to build a basic drawing, on the basis of which you can design any style from the whole variety of styles of women's trousers.

For example, we will use size 48. Using the same principle, you can take measurements of your figure and create an individual trouser pattern.

To construct the drawing we will need the following measurements:

W = 38 cm - Waist semi-circumference

POb = 52 cm - Semi-circle of hips

Dbrk = 56 cm - Pants length to the knee

Dbr = 100 cm - Side length of trousers

W = 24 cm - Width of trousers at the bottom (set according to style, usually in the range of 24-28 cm)

And control measures: knee circumference, ankle circumference and thigh circumference.

Don't forget about the loose fitting allowances:

Fri - increase along the waistline (with a tight fit - 0, medium fit -1, looser - 2)

PB - increase along the hips (0.5-1.5 tight, 1.5-3 - medium fit, 3-4 - loose)

For our trousers, we will take the following increment values:

Now let's start building a basic drawing of the basis of women's trousers.

Front half of trousers

Creating a pattern for women's trousers - step 1

Seat height and hip line

• In the upper left corner we place point T1.
• Let's calculate the seat height: T1Y1= 0.5x(Pob+Pb) +1 cm = 0.5 x (52+ 1)+1 = 27.5 cm.
• From point T1 down a vertical line we plot the height of the seat and place point H1.
• From points T1 and R1, left and right, draw horizontal lines
• To calculate where the hip line will be, divide the T1Y1 segment into 3 parts, denoting the lower division point with the letter B1. R1B1 = (T1R1) / 3 = 27.5 / 3 = 9.1 cm.
• Through point B1 we draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

Creating a pattern for women's trousers - step 2

The next step in creating a pattern is to calculate the width along the hip line. The calculation is made using the following formula:

B1B2 = 0.5 x (Pob+ Pb) - 1 = 0.5 x (52+ 1) - 1 = 26.5 - 1 = 25.5 cm.

We put the resulting value from point B1 to the right horizontally, and place point B2. We draw a vertical line through point B2, and denote the intersection points as T2 and R2.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 3

From point Y2 to the right along the step line, we lay off a segment equal to 1:10 of the half-hip measurement (HH) with an increase for a loose fit along the hip line (Hb) and set point Y3.

R2Y3 = (Pob + Pb): 10 = (52 + 1): 10 = 5.3 cm

To determine where the fold line will be, divide the segment R1R3 in half and place the point R. That is, R1R = R1R3: 2 = 15.4.

Through point I we will draw a vertical line up and down, and the points of intersection with auxiliary horizontal lines we will designate as T and B.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 4

Now let's mark on our pattern knee line and trouser hem line.

We get the knee line by setting aside the measurement value Dbrk = 56 cm along the fold line from point T down, put point K here and draw a horizontal line through it to the left and right.

We get the bottom line by setting aside the measurement value Dbr = 100 cm along the fold line from point T down, put point H here and draw a horizontal line through it to the left and right.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 5

Determine and mark on the pattern width of trousers along the hemline and along the knee line.

The width of the bottom of the front half of the trousers is equal to the width of the bottom of the trousers in finished form minus 2 cm. We lay down segments equal to half the width of the front half along the bottom line on both sides of point H and put points H1 and H2.

НН1 = НН2 = (Шн - 2) : 2 = (24 - 2) : 2 = 11 cm.

The width of the trousers along the knee line is equal to the width of the trousers along the bottom line or 2-4 cm less (according to the style). We put half of this value on the knee line from point K in both directions, and put points K1 and K2.

In our case, we assume that KK1 = KK2 = HH1 = 11 cm.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 6

We draw a step cut line on our pattern.

To do this, we use the auxiliary point R21, which we place in the middle of the segment R2R3.

We connect points K2 and H2 with a straight line.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 7

We draw the line of the middle cut of the front half of women's trousers.

To do this, from point T2 to the left horizontally we lay off a segment T2T0 equal to 1 cm. The value T2T0 = 0 is also possible; it is used for figures with a convex belly, or when trousers are sewn from checkered or striped fabric (but not necessary).

We connect points T0 and B2 with a straight line. We connect points B2 and R3 with an auxiliary straight line, divide the segment in half and place point D.

We connect point D with a straight line to point H2.

We divide the segment DY2 in half, and denote the division point as D1. We draw the “bow” line through points T0, B2, D1, R3 with a smooth line.

The width at the waist line is 0.5 x (Pt + Pt) + two darts. The width of each dart is 2 cm. Take the minimum allowance along the waist line, i.e. 0.

Thus, T0T4 = 0.5x(38 + 0) + 2x2 = 23 cm.

There may be one or two darts at the waistline. In this pattern we use the option with two darts.

Place the first dart along the fold line, set aside 1 cm from point T to the left and right. The length of the dart is 8-10 cm. The sides of the dart are straight lines.

We will place the second dart in the middle of the segment from point T4 to the opening of the 1st dart. From the division point we lower a perpendicular 8-10 cm long - this is the center line of the dart, from it we put 1 cm to the left and right and design the sides of the dart, as in the case of the first one.

We draw a side cut line. We connect points H1 and K1 of the auxiliary line, divide it in half, and from the division point to the right along the perpendicular we set aside a deflection of 0.5-0.7 cm.

We build a side cut line through points T4, B1, R1, the deflection point, K1, H1.

Constructing a pattern for women's trousers - step 10

We draw the bottom line of the front half of the trousers with a straight line H1H2.

The pattern for the front half of women's trousers is ready.

Back half of trousers

We draw the bottom line of the back half of the trousers.

From points H1 and H2 to the left and right we set aside 2 cm and place points: on the left - H3 and on the right - H4. Thus, H1H3 = H2H4 = 2 cm.

From point H we lay down 0.5 cm vertically and place point H5. We connect points H3, H5, H4 with straight lines. The bottom line is decorated.

We draw up the knee line. From points K1 and K2 we set aside 2 cm to the left and right and place points K3 and K4. Thus, K1K3 = K2K4 = 2 cm.

We connect points K3 and K4 with straight lines to points H3 and H4.

We draw a step cutting line.

R2R5 = 0.2 x (Pob + Pb) + 1 = 0.2 x (52+ 1) + 1 = 11.6 cm.

From point Y2 to the right horizontally we put 11.6 cm and put point Y5.

Connect points R5 and K4 with a straight line.

We divide the segment Y5K4 in half, and at the point of division along the perpendicular to the left we set aside 0.5-0.7 cm - this will be an auxiliary deflection point.

From point R3 downwards draw a perpendicular 1 cm long and place point R31. R3 R31 = 1 cm.

From point Y2 through point Y31 draw a straight line to the right until it intersects with the auxiliary line. Let us denote the intersection point as R51.

We draw a smooth concave line through points R51, the deflection point and point K4, and a straight line through points K4, H4. We get a step cut line.

We draw a line for the middle cut. To do this, put the auxiliary point D2 in the middle of the segment D1R2, that is, D1D2 = D1R2: 2.

From point T to the right we set aside 1/3 of the length of the segment TT2 and put point T21, that is, TT21=TT2: 3.

From point T21 we draw a vertical line up, set aside 4.3 cm on it and place point T5.

T21T5 = 0.1 x (Pob + Pb) - 1 = 0.1 x (52 + 1) - 1 = 4.3 cm.

We connect points T5 and R2 with a straight line, and denote the point of intersection with the hip line as B3.

We connect points T5, B3 with a straight line, points D2, Ya31, Ya51 - with a slightly concave line.

Shape the hip line.

B3B4 = (Pob + Pb) - B1B2, where B1B2 = 25.5 cm (already calculated for constructing the front half of the trousers). That is, B3B4 = (52 + 1) - 25.5 = 27.5 cm.

From point B3 to the left horizontally we set aside 27.5 cm and place point B4.

Let's shape the waist line.

Т5Т7 = 0.5 x (POt + Pt) + 2 darts. We take the opening width of each dart to be 2 cm.

That is, T5T7 = 0.5 x (38 + 0) + 2 x 2 = 23 cm.

From point T5 to the left, make a notch on the waist line with a radius of 23 cm and place point T7. We connect points T7 and T5 with a straight line.

We make darts.

We divide the segment T5T7 into three equal parts, from the division points we lower perpendiculars 8-10 cm long - these will be the axial lines of the darts, from which we put 1 cm to the left and right. We draw up the sides of the darts with straight lines.

We draw a side cut line.

To make the side cut line smooth, divide the distance B4K3 into three equal parts.

From the dividing points along the perpendicular we will set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm. At the upper dividing point to the left, and at the lower point to the right.

The pattern for the back half of women's trousers is ready.

The styles of trousers can be very diverse: classic and sporty; voluminous in the hips and more adjacent; widened towards the bottom and narrowed; with cuffs and without cuffs; With different types pockets and without them; length, which varies from knees to foot level; with slits in the side seams and without slits; with various finishes: braid, lace, lacing and other decorative elements. Trousers are made both with and without lining. A wide variety of fabrics are used for sewing trousers: from guipure to drape.

The starting point for all this abundance is construction of the main drawing of trousers. And already on its basis all the styles that you can imagine are designed.
And here’s something else I would like to remind you: If you think that this is difficult, you will see that you were right. If you think that it is simple, you will again be convinced that you are right. So before you think, think! I wish you courage and self-confidence.

Let's take the first step.

We do not claim to be the author of the methodology for constructing the basic drawing of trousers, but only use it as an example. You can use any other one. It’s even better to try several methods to determine which one is most suitable for you. After all the main thing is to adjust what you get to your individual standard.

To construct a drawing of the base of the trousers, the following measurements and allowances are required (the figures given correspond to size 48:

Waist semicircle (St) = 38cm,
Semi-circle of hips (Sb) = 52cm,
Pants length to the knee (Lk) = 56cm;
Pants side length (Db) = 100cm;
Pants width at the bottom (W) = 24cm;
Increases for a loose fit at the waist (Pt) and hips (Pb) are selected depending on the degree of fit of the trousers: Pt - from 0 to 1.5 cm, Pb - from 0.5 to 4 cm. For our construction, we will take the minimum allowance at the waist, i.e. zero, and at the hips – 1 cm.
Fri = 0cm;
Pb = 1cm;

We also need three control Measurements: knee circumference, ankle circumference and hip circumference.

Construction of a drawing of the front half of the trousers.

We begin the construction of the drawing by drawing two mutually perpendicular lines.
We denote the intersection point as T1.

Seat height.
There are two options for determining the seat height: by taking measurements and by calculation. In our example we use the second option, i.e. Let's determine this value using the formula T1R1 = 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) + 1 cm. Let's substitute the values, we get = 0.5 x (52+ 1)+ 1 = 27.5 cm.
From point T1 downwards vertically set aside 27.5 cm and place point Y1. From point Y1, left and right, draw a horizontal line.

Hip line.
Then everything is similar - the formula, we substitute the corresponding values, we get the desired result. R1B1 = (T1R1): 3 = 27.5: 3 =9.1 cm.
From point Y1 up vertically, set aside 9.1 cm and place point B1. Through point B1 draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

The width of the front half along the hip line.
Formula, values, result. Let's move on.
B1B2 = 0.5 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 = 0.5 x (52+ 1) - 1 = 26.5 - 1 = 25.5 cm.
From point B1 to the right horizontally, set aside 25.5 cm and place point B2. Draw a vertical line up and down through point B2, and mark the intersection points as T2 and R2.

Rice. 2

Step width.
R2R3 = 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) Carefully substitute the values ​​= 0.1 x (52 + 1) = 5.3 cm (see figure below).
From point Y2 to the right horizontally, set aside 5.3 cm and place point Y3.

The position of the fold line.
I1I=I1I3: 2.
Divide the segment Y1Y3 in half and put point Y.
Draw a vertical line through point I up and down, and mark the points of intersection with the auxiliary lines as T and B.

Rice. 3

Knee lines.
Distance TK is equal to the taken measurement Dk = 56 cm.
From point T down along the fold line, set aside 56 cm and place point K. Through point K, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

Length trousers.
TN = db = 100cm.
From point T down along the fold line, set aside 100 cm and place point H. Through point H, draw a horizontal line to the left and right.

The width of the front half of the trousers along the hem line.
HH1 = HH2 = 0.5 x (Wn - 2) = 0.5 x (24 - 2) = 11cm. From point H to the left and to the right, set aside 11 cm and put points: on the left - H1, on the right - H2.
The width of the trousers at the bottom should not be less than the ankle circumference measurement.

Fig.5

The width of the front half of the trousers at the knee line.
KK1 = KK2 = HH1 = 11cm.
It should be noted that the width of the trousers along the knee line can be greater or less than the width of the trousers along the hemline or be the same, but should not be less than the knee circumference measurement (OK) plus an increase of 2 cm for a loose fit. We take the width of the trousers along the knee line to be equal to the width of the trousers along the hem line. From point K to the left and right horizontally, set aside 11 cm and put points: on the left - K1, on the right - K2.

Auxiliary points for designing the step cut line.
We obtain point R21 by dividing the segment R2R3 in half.
Connect points Y21 and K2 with a straight line, divide this segment in half and connect the division point with a smooth concave line to point Y3.
Draw a step cut line below the division point through points K2 and H2, connecting them with a straight line.

Rice. 6

Design of the “bow” line (the line of the middle cut of the front half).
T2T0 = from 0 to 1 cm;
The distance T2T0 is taken equal to zero for figures with a convex belly, as well as when trousers are supposed to be sewn from fabric with a checkered and striped pattern, although the latter condition is not necessary.
In our example, the distance T2T0 is 1 cm.
From point T2 to the left horizontally, set aside 1 cm and place point T0. Connect points T0 and B2 with a straight line. Connect points B2 and R3 with an auxiliary straight line, divide the segment in half and place point D. Connect point D with a straight line to point R2. Divide the segment DY2 in half and mark the division point as D1. Draw the “bow” line through points T0, B2, D1, Y3 with a smooth line.

Rice. 7

Width at waistline.
Т0Т4 = 0.5 x (St + Fri) + two darts. The width of each dart is 2cm. We take the minimum allowance along the waist line, i.e. equal to zero. We substitute the values ​​into the formula = 0.5x(38 + 0) + 2x2 = 23 cm.
From point T0 to the left horizontally, set aside 23 cm and place point T4.

Position of darts at the waist line.
The first dart is located along the fold line, set aside 1 cm from point T to the left and to the right. The length of the dart is 8-10 cm. Decorate the sides of the dart with straight lines;
The second dart is located in the middle of the segment from point T4 to the opening of the 1st dart. From the dividing point, lower a perpendicular 8-10 cm long - this is the center line of the dart, set aside 1 cm to the left and right and decorate the sides of the dart.

Rice. 8

Side cut line of the front half of the trousers.
Connect points J1 and K1 of the auxiliary straight line, divide it in half, and from the division point to the right along the perpendicular, set aside a deflection of 0.5-0.7 cm. Draw a side cut line through points T4, B1, R1, deflection point, K1, H1.

Rice. 9

Bottom line.
The bottom line of the front half is formed by a straight line H1H2.

The construction of the drawing of the front half of the trousers is completed.

Construction of a drawing of the back half of the trousers.

Rice. eleven

The width of the back half of the trousers at the knee line.
K1K3 = K2K4 = 2cm. From points K1 and K2, set aside 2 cm to the left and right and place points K3 and K4, respectively. Connect points K3 and K4 with straight lines to points H3 and H4.

Rice. 12

Step Width(See picture below).
R2R5 = 0.2 x (Sb + Pb) + 1. Substitute the values ​​into the formula = 0.2 x (52+ 1) + 1 = 11.6 cm. From point Y2 to the right horizontally, set aside 11.6 cm and place point Y5

Step cutting line.
Connect points J5 and K4 with a straight line. Divide the segment Y5K4 in half, at the point of division along the perpendicular to the left, set aside 0.5-0.7 cm - we get an auxiliary deflection point. From point R3, lower a perpendicular 1 cm long down and place point R31. R3 R31 = 1 cm. From point Y2 through point Y31, draw a straight line to the right until it intersects with the auxiliary line. Designate the intersection point as R51.
Draw the step cut line through points Y51, the deflection point and point K4 with a smooth concave line, and through points K4, H4 - with a straight line.

Rice. 13

Middle cut line.
Auxiliary points:
D1D2=D1Y2: 2
The balance of the trousers is the ratio of the levels of the cut vertices of the front and back halves.
TT21=TT2: 3
From point T to the right, set aside 1/3 of the length of segment TT2 and place point T21. From point T21, draw a vertical line up, set aside 4.3 cm on it and place point T5:
T21T5 = 0.1 x (Sb + Pb) - 1 = 0.1 x (52 + 1) - 1 = 4.3 cm.
Connect points T5 and R2 with a straight line, mark the point of intersection with the hip line as B3.
Draw the middle cut line through points T5, B3 as a straight line, then through points D2, Ya31, Ya51 as a slightly concave line.

Rice. 14

The width of the back half of the trousers along the hip line.
B3B4 = (Sb + Pb) - B1B2 from the front half = (52 + 1) - 25.5 = 27.5 cm.
From point B3 to the left horizontally, set aside 27.5 cm and place point B4.

The width of the back half of the trousers at the waistline.
Т5Т7 = 0.5 x (St + Fri) + 2 darts. The opening width of each dart is taken to be 2 cm = 0.5 x (38 + 0) + 2 x 2 = 23 cm.
From point T5 to the left, make a notch on the waist line with a radius of 23 cm and place point T7. Connect points T7 and T5 with a straight line.

Rice. 15

The position of the darts of the back half of the trousers.
Divide the T5T7 segment into three equal parts, lower perpendiculars 8-10 cm long from the division points - we get the axial lines of the darts, from which we put half of the dart solution to the left and right, i.e. 1cm each Decorate the sides of the darts with straight lines.

Rice. 16

Side cut line of the back half of the trousers.
To ensure a smooth side cut line, the distance B4K3 must be divided into three equal parts. From the dividing points along the perpendicular we set aside 0.5 - 0.7 cm. Moreover, at the upper point of division it goes to the left, and at the lower point – to the right.

Rice. 17

We draw a side cut line.
Connect points T7 and B4 with a slightly convex line, points B4 and K3 with a convex-concave line, through auxiliary points (see figure). We connect points K3 and H4 with a straight line.

Fig.18

The drawing of the back half of the trousers is completed.

Rice. 19

You have finished drawing the trouser pattern.

Any style can be constructed from this base and, of course, it can be used as a sewing pattern classic trousers. By making minor changes to the design, for example, widening the knees or narrowing the bottom, you will get a completely new model. By experimenting, you gain invaluable experience.

We will post detailed instructions on design and sewing technology with visual examples in the appropriate sections.

I wish you all creative inspiration!

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To the lucky owners perfect figure incredibly lucky. Selecting a new wardrobe will not be a difficult task for them. But what about those who have non-standard proportions, and every trip to the store ends with endless fittings and leaving empty-handed. The ideal solution for such girls is a pattern of women's trousers made to measure. This task is not easy, but it can be solved.

How to take measurements

To create a pattern for women's trousers, the first thing you need to do is take measurements:

1. Waist circumference OT - the thinnest part of the lower back is measured.
2. Hip circumference OB - determined by the widest part of the buttocks, strictly horizontally.
3. Hip height WB - from the waist to the hip.
4. Seat height BC - measurement is taken in a sitting position, from the waist to the surface of the chair.
5. Knee height VK - the distance from the waist to the center of the knee.
6. Knee circumference OK - measured in a sitting position with the knee bent perpendicularly.
7. The length of the DB trousers is from the waist to the heel.

To ensure that the trousers fit freely, when cutting, it is recommended to add an additional 1 cm to the waist and an additional 2 cm to the hips.

First, let's look at basic construction patterns for women's trousers. This base can be easily modified into any model. It is best to draw the construction on graph paper, but you can take any sheet of suitable size.

Cutting the front part

Work should start from the upper right point A. From it, move down the hip height - point B, and the seat height - point C. From point B to the left, measure ¼ of the hip circumference and the increase on the hips - point B1, and 1/2 cm to the right - AT 2. From point C, lay a line parallel to B-B1, and to the left 1/20 of the hip circumference - C2. Connect points A, B2 and C2 with a smoothly flowing line. From point A, set aside a quarter of the waist circumference plus 3 cm - A1, from it up 1 cm - A2. Connect points A1, B1 and C1 using a pattern.

In the middle of the segment C1-C2, place point D, from it up to line A1-A, point E. From it down, measure the height of the knee - point D1, and the length of the trousers - F. From point D1 in both directions, draw a line equal to ¼ of a circle knee - points D2 and D3. Below, through point F, draw exactly the same segment. Now you can connect the side points to create a seam line.

To build a dart from point E, you need to put 1 cm on both sides and 10 cm down - E1, E2, E3. Connect the points with a triangle. Finally, connect points E1 and A2. The front pattern of women's trousers is complete.

Cutting the back part

The easiest way is to start directly on the finished drawing, using the same points, just highlight the lines in a different color. You need to start again from point A, from it to the left put half of the segment A-E plus 2 cm, you get point H. From it a perpendicular upward by 2 cm - H1. From point C, set aside 1/48 of the hip circumference - C3, which is connected to H1. To the right of C3, measure 1/10 of the hip circumference - C4. To the right, draw a line from point H, equal to 1/4 of the waist circumference minus 1 cm - H2, from it up 1 cm, H3, and connect H3 to H1.

Call the intersection point of segments B and H1-C3 L. From it to the left draw a line equal to ¼ of the hip circumference - L1. Using a pattern, connect H3-L1 and L-C4. Next, we draw seam lines, marking 1.5 cm from the bottom points in different directions. To make a groove on the segment H1-H3, place a point M in the middle, set aside 1 cm to the sides and a perpendicular 14 cm long, connect it into a triangle. The pattern for women's trousers is ready.

How to insert an elastic band

Trousers with a rigid waistband look great, but lovers of a looser style prefer elastic waistbands. Such clothes fit more comfortably and adapt better to your body shape. How does the pattern change? There are many different models of women's trousers with elastic, but the construction of the drawstring is the same for all. You will only have to work on the top part of the drawing.

First of all, you need to erase the darts; they won’t be needed here. Draw a line straight up from the hip, the width of the waist will be larger than the real one. Add 2cm of elastic at the top and 2cm for the seams. If the pattern of women's trousers with an elastic band suggests a low waist, you first need to measure the height from the hip, and build a drawstring from this line. Pants with elastic do not fall down and do not cause additional discomfort; they are especially convenient for office work or a long feast. This looser cut will help hide minor figure imperfections at the waist and hips.

Bananas are back

The “bananas” that returned from the eighties are gaining more and more momentum. The peculiarity of this pattern of women's trousers is the narrowed legs and wide hip part. They are also easy to cut on a standard base. As with skinny pants, the hem should be shortened to the ankle and tapered a little, only the bananas should be a little looser in this part. On the contrary, we spread the hips 5-7 cm in each direction. We increase the waist line by 3 cm, remove the darts, and instead of them there will be folds. A wide sewn belt would look logical.

A pattern of women's trousers in the style of the eighties will delight any fashionista. But for curvy girls it is better not to choose bananas, but for thin girls, on the contrary, they will help add the necessary volume to the hips.

Skinny pants

Skinny pants have been a popular summer trouser pattern in recent years. This model has already conquered many women’s hearts. And men are crazy about slender ladies' legs in tight trousers. For sewing skinnies, only elastic stretch is suitable, but the color and pattern leave room for inspiration and style.

To adapt patterns, you need to take two additional measurements:

• knee girth with straight leg;
• ankle circumference.

The length of the trousers will also have to be changed; this style only reaches the ankle. When constructing, you will have to shorten the length and reduce the width to fit the new measurements in the knee area and at the bottom. Connect new dots. You can do it simpler: reduce it in the knee area on both sides by 1.5 cm, and on the bottom by 4 cm. But in this case, there is a risk that the size will not fit. This stunning women's trousers pattern is ready to go.

Color and fabric

Summer brings many rich colors and bright moods, and this is fully reflected in the summer wardrobe. The warm season allows you to experiment a lot with the choice of fabrics. Jersey, denim, cotton and linen, light chiffon and delicate silk - you can use anything.

Based on the pattern for "bananas" you can sew light summer pants V oriental style from thin flowing fabrics. Choose for this bright colors, complex ornaments or a classic oriental pattern in the colors of paprika and curry.

Skinny trousers in warm pastel colors are suitable for work and school, and bright marker shades will make you stand out from the city crowd.

Patterning women's trousers is not an easy task; you will have to put in a lot of patience, but the result will exceed all expectations. Custom-made clothing cannot be compared to store-bought items, and the sewing process itself is a lot of fun. The happy owner of unique trousers can safely go for a walk without fear of meeting a competitor.