Dress gate pattern. How to sew a flat turn-down collar. Stand-up collar with a snug fit around the neck

Any turn-down collar cut from the top and bottom parts. If the fastener of the product is in front, then the collar is represented by one whole part, and with its ends it is connected at the place of the cut under the fastener.

1. Attach the seal from the wrong sides of the 2 upper collar pieces, folded right sides together. Align the cut edges and pin all the top pieces with the loose bottom pieces. Baste the parts of the collar, but leave the edges of the neckline free, remove the pins.
2. Walk the typewriter along the outer edges of all the details of the collar. If the fabric is thin, then set the stitch to small stitches. When reinforcing each side of the corner, step back 1.5 cm from the top. If the fabric is a bit thicker, then sew a few stitches across the tops of the corners to dull them a bit. Delete the note.
3. Trim the seam allowances. At the bends, make "V"-shaped cuts on them around the bends (above). On 2 sides of each corner, diagonally bevel the seam allowances and trim the corners. If the stitching is bunched up, smooth the collar seam as you advance the presser foot.
4. Using a sleeve ironing board, iron the seam, opening the allowances with the tip of the iron. For rounded sections of the collar, it is better to use a curved section of the board. The seam allowances should be pressed down towards the bottom of the collar, and don't forget to iron the seam section by section again.
   
5. Machine sew along the seam of the collar, working with front side the bottom of the collar, grabbing the allowances next to the seam line. If, due to the shape of the collar, you cannot sew through the entire seam, then sew while you can.
6. Turn the collar pieces to the front. Turn out the corners with a needle with a thread folded in half and tied at the end with a knot, passing the needle first inward and then pulling it back out.
7. Try to roll the seam a little with your finger, moving it towards the bottom part. Iron the edge of the offset seam by running the tip of the iron along the seam, section by section. Then, through the fabric, iron the collar on the front side with an iron so that unwanted shine does not appear.

If ironing does not hold the seam that is offset towards the bottom, pin off the collar pieces along the edge of the neckline. Baste along the outer edge. Remove the basting from the finished product.

Most easy way sew a turn-down flat collar - put it between the product and the inner lining and sew. A turn-down flat collar from one or 2 parts is sewn in the same way, except that the collar from the whole part is turned with its ends towards the middle of the front.

1. Before you start sewing on the collar, stitch the shoulder seams and sew the darts leading to the neck line. Attach the zipper. Mark the center front with a pin.
2. Baste the collar, consisting of 2 parts, along the neck line, connecting 2 layers of fabric. At the junction of the front ends of each part of the collar, when basting, fasten them with an overlap.
3. The collar must be pinned to the front side of the product. The top of the collar part should be at the top, the raw edges should be aligned, the markings should be aligned. Put a point where the parts of the collar intersect with a pin, baste the collar. Remove pins.
4. Cut out the inner lining and pin it to the top of the collar along the neck line, right side inward. Align the edges of the neckline. Leave 1.5 cm ends on each side of the zipper opening. Baste. Sew with a machine along the neckline through all layers of fabric.
5. Delete the note. Cut the seam allowances, leave the allowance on the side of the product a little wider. Diagonally trim the corners of the seam allowances at the slit at the shoulder seams and at the back. Make "V" slits at the curves, making them more frequently in the more curved areas.

Instructions for the site "Casket" were prepared by Nina Kuznetsova, the author of a master class and other useful sewing workshops.

1. We fold the shelf in half as in the photo, measure the length of the neck, minus 1.5 cm. (the mark to which the collar will reach, that is, the middle of the front). It is important to measure accurately here. It is necessary to measure using a flexible ruler or a centimeter placed on the edge. Retreat from the edge by 0.5 cm (this will be the allowance for the neck for the seam). In my example (size 44) neck length = 20cm

2. We start by building a right angle. I just took a sheet of A4 and started building from the left corner, let's denote it with a point O.

Set aside 1.5 cm from point O upwards, put point B . In practice, I was convinced that this is the most optimal value.

The greater the distance OB (and it can be in the range of 1.5 - 12 cm), the more flat the collar will lie.

BB1 = 6-8 cm. I took 8 cm.

3. From point B, putting a centimeter to the intersection with the bottom line of the sheet, set aside 20 cm (the length of the neck measured in centimeters) and set point A.

I want to draw attention to the following: if you measured with a flexible ruler, then we put it on the sheet with a flexible ruler too; if by a centimeter, then postpone it with the same centimeter. When I built for the first time, I measured the neck with a centimeter, and put it on paper with an ordinary ruler. As a result, the collar did not match the neckline (it turned out to be smaller). So I redid the paper pattern again. If you describe everything correctly, then this should be the radius, but I did not have time to look for compasses and so on. I have simplified everything to a minimum.

We connect point B and point A with a straight line and divide it by 3

AA1 = BB1 + 1cm (constant) = 8 + 1 = 9cm

We also set a perpendicular to point A1

A1A2 \u003d 2 - 5 cm. I have \u003d 4 cm

We connect point B1 and point A2 with a straight line.

We look at the following photos and draw a smooth line BA1

Important: so that the beginning of the smooth line runs parallel. To do this, I attached a triangle with a right angle to point B and drew a parallel line to point 0.5. Further, I will say this in a scientific language: we must remember that the stitching line should approach the center line of the collar at a right angle.

We connect A1A2 with a straight line, thereby completing the construction of the collar.

5. Cut out and attach our pattern to the neck.

Good afternoon our dear readers!

In the next modeling lesson, we will analyze one of the most interesting and extensive design topics - collars.

To start modeling collars, we need to have (Fig. 1). For this, there is no need to perform calculations and build it with rulers and a pencil - just go to the main page of our site, select " basic pattern dresses" and indicate your measurements. Then the program will instantly build your individual pattern, you can print it even on an A4 printer. Instructions on how to do this are on the page.

Let's start our "dive" into the topic of modeling collars with the most simple and understandable - stand-up collars.

All stand collars are built in the same sequence, only they have different values ​​\u200b\u200band line configurations. Collars can be with rounded or straight ends, overlap each other and be modeled end to end, more or less close to the neck. The clasp can be located both in front and behind.

Let's now analyze the construction of the stand collar as on a green blouse (Figure 2a).

To build a stand collar, you need to measure the length of the neck of the back and front. We get a specific number (for example, 20 cm). Then subtract 0.5 cm from this value and set aside this value in a straight line. To prevent the stand from moving away from the neck, we raise the front angle by 3-4 cm (the larger the value, the tighter the stand will fit to the neck). Now we set the desired height of the rack (3 cm). And we draw the smooth lines of our collar - the stand. Remember to keep the rack height constant! A blue control notch separates the front and back of the collar - when sewing the stand collar, you will align it with the shoulder seam.

Figure 2b shows a drawing of a stand collar as on a blouse with an ornament.

The sequence of drawing the collar remains the same. In a straight line, we set aside the length of the neck of the back minus 0.5 cm. We raise the front corner by 2-3 cm. We set the height of the rack according to the model - this value is arbitrary (4-6 cm). And draw a beautiful stand! Also, do not forget to check the height of the rack.

You can often see sweaters and coats with a one-piece stand. Such a cut of the collar fits well to the neck due to the transition of the darts in the line of the stand.

As shown in Figure 3, we will initially set the width of the side (this is the value by which one part of the shelf will go behind the other). Usually it is about 2 cm for the central fastener (buttons in one row as in the photo) and 4 cm for the so-called double-breasted fastener (two rows of parallel buttons). To prevent the collar from cutting into the neck, you need to expand the neck of the shelf and back by 1-1.5 cm and deepen it by 0.5-0.7 cm. We connect the points obtained with lines (red).

We determine the height of the rack. In the example with a one-piece stand, the height of the stand gradually decreases - the largest value is deposited along the middle seam of the back 5-7 cm, along the shoulder cut it is already 4-6 cm. Along the middle seam of the back, we set aside the height of the stand on the continuation of the line, and in the area of ​​the shoulder seam, draw perpendicular to the red auxiliary lines. We understand that the line of transition of the collar to the shoulder seam should be smooth, so we correct the line by cutting off the corners a little (green lines). The final step is to draw the upper cut of the rack, rounding in front.

Now next in line flat collars. Also one of the easiest to build.

Let's pay attention to the jacket in the first photo. Initially, we need to transfer the shoulder tuck on the back and the chest tuck on the shelf into the armhole line - it is much more convenient to draw a flat lying collar. Now we put the back part on the shelf, leading 1-1.5 cm along the shoulder cut. Determine the width of the collar and draw it directly on the folded parts (blue line)! Set aside along the middle seam of the back highest value(5-6 cm), slightly less along the shoulder seam (4.5-5 cm) (Figure 4 and 5).

Stand-up collars. Probably each of us has something with such a collar. Most often they can be found in shirts. To simplify the sewing, the collar is made with a one-piece stand.

Let's start drawing a stand-up collar as on a blue blouse. As in the stand collars, we initially draw the length of the neckline minus 0.5 cm in a straight line. From one edge (where the middle seam of the back will be) to set the necessary bend of the bottom line of the collar, set aside 3-4 cm perpendicularly, then the value of the stand (2, 5 - 3 cm), and the so-called "back collar width" (5-7 cm). To draw the front corner of the stand-up collar, set aside 5 cm to the left and about 9 cm up, (there may be other values ​​\u200b\u200bdepending on the height of the stand and the width of the departure you have chosen). And we try according to the pattern, we draw a collar !!! The rack can be either detachable or one-piece (Figure 6).

Collar cut shawl. These collars are very effective and not laborious in comparison with jacket collars. The upper collar is cut together with the selection, which greatly simplifies the whole work. So if you want to sew a jacket for the first time, we advise you to start with just such a model.

Pay attention to the configuration of the lines on the last two models of jackets - we see clearly prominent corners. This type of shawl collar is called apache.

Let's make a model design of the shawl collar as on the first model. First, let's set the bead width to about 2-2.5 cm (Figure 7). Now, according to the model, you need to determine the depth of the cut and put a point x. We expand the neck of the shelf (and back) by 2.5-3 cm - we get point a. Then, in the opposite direction, set aside 4 cm - set point b. We connect x and b with a line and continue this straight line a little to the top. The resulting line is called the inflection line of the collar (red). Now we measure the length of the neck of the back and with the help of a compass from point a, we make a notch (point c) on the inflection line of the collar. The segment ac is equal to the length of the neck of the back.

To determine the position of the lower point of the middle of the collar (point d), from point c tangentially set off the value of the collar departure plus 0.8 cm. (For example: the width of the departure is 6 cm, then the segment cd \u003d 6.8 cm). Point d. Now we connect points d and a with a smooth line, we finish the line on the neck - we get the lower cut of the shawl collar.

Set aside the width of the shawl departure perpendicular to the lower cut of the collar (6-7 cm).

The last action is to draw a smooth line of the upper cut of the shawl collar (green line) from point x to the middle seam.

Now let's see what details we got in the end (Figure 8).

Pickup. We need to draw the inner line of the selection, to which the lining is sewn (blue dotted line), we draw it in a straight line, at a distance of 3 cm from the midline, and then with a slightly convex line and finish at the shoulder seam, at a distance of 3-4 cm from point a. We transfer the part onto a separate sheet of paper along the green line, then from point a along the shoulder seam (it is important that there is a right angle in the area of ​​​​the transition of the selection to the facing of the back (Figure 8a)), along the inner and outer lines of the selection (solid blue and dotted lines) .

The lower collar in shawl-type collars is made detachable. Also, on a separate piece of paper, we transfer the upper part of the collar (green lines) bounded by a blue dotted line.

The shelf is copied completely, only without the lower collar section.

And we saved the most interesting for last!

Jacket type collars. Such collars are made of four parts - the lower and upper collars and two rack parts. Sometimes the racks are made in one piece. The depth of the neckline varies - the first button can be located above or below chest level, or completely go down to the waist. The width of the lapel is also varied - from very narrow to covering most of the shelf. The jacket collar is very important element. Such a collar must be made with great care, otherwise appearance of the entire product will be damaged.

Let's make a model design of a jacket-type collar as on the latest model of a jacket made of black fabric with a white print. The first construction steps are very similar to a shawl collar - we draw a side 4 cm wide (if the fastener is double-breasted) or 2-2.5 cm (for the central fastener). We expand the neck by 1-1.5 cm, we get point a. To determine the position of the inflection line of the collar, set aside 1.5-2 cm to the left, set point b. We decide on the desired depth of the cutout and draw the line of the inflection of the collar. From point a we make a notch with a compass, the radius (segment ac) is equal to the length of the neck of the back - we put point c. Then, from point c, tangentially, we set aside the width of the back of the collar plus 0.8 cm. We get point d. We connect points d and a with a smooth line. Now, at point d, we restore the perpendicular to the line da and set aside on it, first the height of the stand (2-2.5 cm), then the width of the collar (4-5 cm). (Figure 9 and 9a)

And now we will need to draw the lines of the departure of the collar, ruffle and lapel. Refer to Figure 11 for an understanding of these concepts.
To more clearly imagine how the collar will look like in the finished product, draw it on the right side on the details of the shelf (blue lines). The depth of the lapel is about 5 cm, the width is set to 7 cm. After we like the configuration of the lines of our collar, we will reflect it relative to the inflection line (green lines). It is most convenient to do this with the help of tracing paper.

Now it remains to draw a complete rack. The upper cut is drawn below the inflection line by 0.5 cm, the width is left 2-2.5 cm (blue line).

Figure 10 shows all the resulting details:

• Pickup. It is drawn similarly to the collar of a shawl. Dotted line at a distance of 4 cm from the middle of the shelf.
• Collar (lower and upper). Copies completely with the rack.
• Shelf. We translate everything, only without a collar.

The topic of collars is voluminous, diverse and quite complex. So, if you have any questions - feel free to ask them in

Drap Drap (French drap "cloth") - heavy, dense wool fabric complex weave from hardware (cloth) spinning yarn. Like other types of fabrics made from natural raw materials, drape has a glorious history. Its production became possible after the invention of special looms, which make it possible to produce material in which the threads are arranged in several rows. To be precise, the drape has one and a half or two layers of weave. This allowed experimentation with weft and warp threads. The easiest option for this is to put exactly the same threads on the ducks and on the warp, on the outer and on the wrong layers. The next step was prompted by worldly logic: to replace the yarn of the inner layer with a cheaper or lower quality yarn. Further, part of the woolen threads was replaced with cotton or linen and another kind of drape was obtained. By changing the weave pattern, the raw material, the combination of weft and warp colors, and the finish of the front side, about a dozen classic varieties of drape were obtained. With the advent of artificial and synthetic fibers, the range of drapes has expanded and acquired new properties. Drap perfectly keeps the shape of the product, due to the thickness and layering remains warm and windproof. Properly dyed drape does not shed, does not fade in the sun and does not lose color in the rain. It practically does not wrinkle, and accidental creases can be straightened with steam. Varieties and varieties of drape If pure wool yarns of the best spinning are used to produce fabric on the outer and inner layers, a double-sided drape of the highest grade will be obtained. It was from such a drape that a small-town tailor turned his coat over in a well-known song. Indeed, a product from a double-sided drape that has worn out at the seams and bends can be carefully dissolved at the seams and sewn again, on the wrong side. The difference in appearance was insignificant and depended on the way the front side was processed. Drap is considered pure wool if the amount of additives in the yarn does not exceed 15%. By and large, these additives are wool restored by chemical methods. The highest quality drapes belong to this category. But usually, lower quality threads are used in the lining layers, with the addition of wool recovered from waste. Therefore, the wrong side of such a drape is more loose. This does not affect the appearance of the drape product, but can significantly reduce its weight and overall density. If the wool content is in the range of 30-85%, the drape is considered to be half-woolen. As a rule, it is looser and lighter due to the content of nylon, nitron or viscose fibers. At the same time, they try to make the front layer pure wool. To give such a drape classic look, the pile has to be pressed in and combed. Excessive friability and softness is the most common drawback of mixed drape. However, it also finds its application. In particular, some types are used in the manufacture of windproof suits and overalls. The processing of the front side of the finished drape is carried out in several stages. The fabric is felted to give extra density. Then it is piled: the pile is given the necessary qualities. Depending on the type of drape, its pile can be fluffy, velor, or pressed. After napping, the structure of the weave of the fabric becomes almost invisible. Classic varieties of drape If two or more colors of thread were used in the production of fabric, a melange drape will be obtained. Its weave pattern is extremely diverse, since it depends both on the weave and on the combination of warp and weft colors. Such varieties of drape are very expensive. They sew from them a solid, timeless outerwear for wealthy men and women. Pure woolen fabrics made from wool of a certain quality in compliance with the necessary technologies for weaving and finishing are considered classic drapes. For example, drape Flacon should contain 80% merino and 20% tsigai wool (wool of tsigai sheep), the weave and the thickness of the threads are strictly regulated. The pile of the front side should be thick and dense. Drap velor is made of merino wool and does not contain extraneous additives. The pile of the front side lies freely, but should not roll or fray. There are other varieties that have long become classics. However, due to the great possibilities in the selection of raw materials, its percentage, the method of production and subsequent processing, new, no less interesting varieties of drape are constantly appearing. Pictured: Balenciaga coat

I was arranging folders on the computer, and I found such interesting collars.

There are a lot of them here, and maybe even small, but maybe someone will come in handy.

As you know, fashion is cyclical, and if these collars are not in fashion today, this does not mean that they will not be in demand in 5-10 years.

This is me to the fact that you don’t need to write that they are too old-fashioned - everything is back in fashion! Stand collar for men's shirt. It consists of two parts - the stand and the collar itself.

In general, everyone has this advice: if you want to cut out a collar, and you don’t know how to do it, which collar is best, but you don’t want to cut the fabric, then it’s best to cut the collar you like from dummy fabric (fabric that you don’t mind cutting, it’s better to choose the most suitable in texture), and figure out how you like its shape, and how it lies.

In this case, you will not spoil the fabric, and you will be able to appreciate the collar.

And it's not even that important. women's shirt or male - building one.

By various methods it, of course, differs, but this construction (the EMKO method) is quite successful even (although there are some angularities and shortcomings).

The shirt collar pattern consists of the collar itself and the stand.

Construction of a collar pattern:

1. We build an angle at point O.

2. From point O upwards, lay off a segment equal to 7 - 8 cm, and set point B.

3. From point B, set aside a distance equal to 6 - 8 cm (collar width), and set point B2.

4. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:

5. We connect points A and B with a straight line, in the middle of which (point c) we build a perpendicular up and down, along which we set aside 1.5 cm in both directions, and set points c1 and c2.

6. At point B we build a right angle.
BB1 \u003d AA2 \u003d 3 - 4 cm.

We draw the bottom of the rack parallel to the top. We complete the ledge, equal to the width of the half-skid. The corner can be rounded or left at an angle - according to the model.

The width of the collar in front and the design of the ends according to the model.

7. AA3 (up) = BB2 + 1 cm

8. A3A4 (right) = 4 - 5 cm

9. We connect points B2 and A4 with a straight line. In its middle, A6A7 \u003d 1 - 1.5 cm.

10. We make out the departure line with a smooth curve.

Happy building and sewing!

Quite often you can see shawl collar in clothes.

Such a collar is in demand in blouses, and in dresses, and even in coats, although, probably, such a collar can most often be seen in a dressing gown.

The shawl collar looks very dignified, and can be made from almost any fabric.

Pattern also does not represent anything complicated, and is built very quickly.

Construction of a shawl collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside a distance equal to A4-B \u003d 2 - 3 cm.

2. We connect points B and L, at the intersection with the neck line we put point F.

3. From point A4 on the continuation of the line A3-A4 to the left, set aside a value equal to the length of the neck of the back, and set point O.

4. From point O, we raise the perpendicular to the line A4-O upwards, along which we set aside the amount of rise in the middle of the collar = 4 cm - for stooped figures, 6 cm - for kinky ones, and we get point B3.

5. We connect points B3 and A4.

6. From point B3 perpendicular to B3-A4, draw a line in the middle of the collar.

7. Rack Height:
B3-B2 \u003d A4-B \u003d 2 - 3 cm.

8. Set aside the departure width according to the model, but not less than B3-B2 + (3 - 4 cm), and get the point B4.

9. We make out the departure line according to the model.

Shawl collar in clothes:

It is presented below and does not represent anything complicated and scary.

So there is no need to be so afraid, but you can just read carefully and everything will become clear.

Where can we see the apache collar?

Most often it is blouses and bathrobes.

But such a collar can often be seen on a wedding bolero.

So, if you decide to sew a wedding bolero, then take note of such a collar.

He classical and looks appropriate on many models.

This is, so to speak, a classic that never goes out of style.

Apache collar pattern (according to the EMKO method):

1. On the continuation of the shoulder line, set aside the height of the rack A4-B = 3 cm.

2. We connect the points L and B, at the intersection with the neckline we put the point F.

3. Continue L-B line up and set aside from point B the length of the neck of the back - set point B1.

4. From the point Ф we draw an arc to the left with a radius equal to Ф-В1, along the arc to the left we set aside the segment В1-В2 \u003d 5 cm.

5. We connect point B with point B2 with a straight line and perpendicular to it from point B2 draw the line of the middle of the collar up and down.

6. From point B2 to the left on the line of the middle of the collar, we postpone the segment:
B2-B3 \u003d A4-B \u003d 3 cm, and to the right B2-B4 \u003d departure width according to the model.

7. The position of the front end of the collar.
Point C - according to the model.

8. The line of departure and the edge of the collar to the line of inflection L-B are drawn according to the model.

9. We draw the line for stitching the collar into the neck through point B3 tangentially to the neck, while A4-A41 \u003d 0.5 - 0.8 cm.

This apache collar pattern may change slightly, depending on the height of the stand.

You can make a turn-down rack:

And you can make it so that the collar stands at the back, and only its ends are bent:

And you can even do something in between the two options described above:

Below is pattern of a stand-up collar for products with a combined fastener to the top and open to the style.

These collars are most widely used in shirt-style blouses and dresses.

What is its feature?

And the peculiarity is that, unlike turn-down collar patterns with a slight rise, this collar has, as it were, one-piece rack and looks good both buttoned up and when unbuttoned.

The pattern of the stand-up collar is built as follows:

1. We build an angle at point O.

2. From the point O upwards, set aside a segment equal to 2 cm, and set the point B.

3. From point B, set aside a distance equal to 3 - 3.5 cm (rack height), and
set point B1.

4. From point B, set aside a distance equal to 8 - 10 cm (collar width), and set point B2.

5. From point B on the horizontal we make a notch:
R \u003d VA \u003d neck length - (minus) 0.05 * OB

7. From point A upwards, set aside a distance equal to OB2.

8. Distance A3A4 - according to the model.

9. The collar stitching line touches the OA line at point (A1), located at a distance of 1/3 of the OA segment, from point A to the left.

We circle the collar along the control points.

There is a whole group of collars called "fantasy".

Fantasy collars are obtained by breeding a flat-lying collar of any shape.

These include the collar, which will be discussed below - this is the "kokilje" collar.

It is usually built on recessed neck.

I will give the construction according to the EMKO method.

It is best to make a “kokilje” collar from silk fabrics, because. they will flow and lie very beautifully.

Its construction and pattern is very simple.

A2-B1 = 10cm

A5-O = 9 cm or more

We translate the collar pattern from the drawing, draw lines of cuts on it, divide the pattern into 8 parts, along which we cut the pattern from the departure side and push it apart.

The amount of spreading depends on the thickness and structure of the fabric, and can vary from 10 to 20 cm.

We make out the departure line with a smooth line so that the collar is beautifully laid in the tails; it should be cut out along the oblique thread to the middle of the collar, i.e. to the line A-B at an angle of 45 degrees.

Most often, such collars can be seen on blouses made in a romantic style, but coats with such collars can also be found.