Mass production of new models of men's shoes. What is the difference between designer and factory shoes? Manufacture of leather shoes

People have been thinking about protecting their feet from cold and damage for a very long time. Today's shoes, already familiar to us, have gone through several thousand years from the simplest, sewn pieces of leather, woven sandals and carved wooden shoes to products consisting of many parts and requiring entire factories to manufacture.

In some ways, modern shoes and their distant ancestors have much in common, only today there are increased requirements for today's specimens: any buyer wants shoes not only to protect the feet from damage and be comfortable, but also meet the latest fashion trends and please the eye.

Market

To date, experts note a high dependence Russian market from foreign manufacturer and import. At the same time, the constant increase in prices for shoes from abroad attracts the attention of the consumer to the domestic manufacturer. For an entrepreneur planning to open his own shoe factory, this is obviously a big plus. Along with these processes, marketers see the growth of the market and promise to reach the pre-crisis level of 2008 by 2013.

Technological process

Like every shoe that comes off the assembly line, the manufacturing process has many parts. At the first stage, in the cutting shop, the components of the future boot are made from the obtained, already dressed leather. Usually, the number of such parts is about 30 pieces for one product. They are cut out using stencils (or cutters) and a special punching press installed in the workshop. This machine operates in several modes set by the operator. The setting of the mode depends on the thickness of the material and the height of the cutter, depending on the mode, the height from which the press is lowered changes.

In the same workshop, insoles for future boots are also cut out, but with the help of another press specially designed for such work. at first special fabric pressed on both sides, forming an insole, then the edges are sanded. Then, the blanks are glued with rubber glue. Future warm insoles pass through another special press.

The next workshop is filled with markers who draw lines for future seams with a pencil. After marking, the workpieces are sent to firing, where the edges of the parts are heat treated, painted, and then polished using a special machine for lowering the edges, as a result of which the edges become thin and suitable for stitching.

The next workshop is a sewing workshop. Here, with the help of special machines, seamstresses sew leather parts to obtain blanks. After connecting the parts, thermoplastic inserts are glued into the blanks, thanks to which the shape of the boot remains in its original form for a longer time. These inserts are put on a metal foot heated to 150 degrees Celsius, after which the workpiece is immediately cooled at a temperature of -20 degrees. Deformation of the workpiece at this stage is also prevented by temporary laces threaded into the workpiece.

After all the main operations for stitching the workpiece, the resulting semi-finished product is sent for processing to the so-called "ruffle robot". This machine prepares a temporary sole for gluing a real rubber sole by leveling and removing dust from the surface.

At the next stage, the sole is glued to the workpiece, previously “baked” in a special oven at a temperature of 60 degrees. After that, unnecessary rubber residues are cut off from the sole. After that, the boot can be considered ready. He's being polished sheep wool waxed.

The final step in creating a boot is threading the laces. This process is done manually.

Equipment

Complexity technological process tailoring shoes necessitates a large number of specialized equipment.

Today, there are a sufficient number of different manufacturers of equipment for the production of shoes on the market. various kinds. We will not focus on manufacturers, paying attention to the role of each machine in production.

cutting shop

In the cutting shop, two punching presses are necessary to obtain the necessary parts for the future boot. One of them does the work related to the details for the upper part of the shoe, the other for the bottom and multi-layer flooring.

Insole production

Shoe insoles are produced either in a separate workshop, or, quite often, they are generally purchased separately. If you plan to make insoles yourself in your production, you will need the following equipment:

Insole press
Chamfering Machine: This machine sands the edges of the insoles
Half insole glue machine
Hydraulic press to form a warm insole (optional)
Shoe hemming machine

harvesting area

There are four vehicles in this area:

Twinning and tape machine: this machine aligns the details of the upper, making the thickness of the upper uniform.
Props branding machine: with it, each pair of shoes receives its own identification number.
The hemming machine makes the upper part of the shoe easier to sew by thinning the edges of the parts.
Machine for duplicating uppers, linings and hot-melt materials.

sewing area

As the name implies, in this section, the prepared parts are connected into a workpiece. For this process you need:

sewing conveyor
Special sewing machines
Installation for spreading glue (in case some parts will stick together)
Subsock Inserting Machine
Edge bending machine
Back Seam Smoothing Machine
vamp molding machine

assembly area

Assembly line

Insole nailing machine
Vamp shaping and shaping machine
Back shaping machine
Tightening machine
Humidification Machine
Pass dryer
Cooling tunnel
blowing machine
Ruffle machine
Marking Machine
Thermal activator for adhesive films
Seam press
shoe removal machine
Shaft smoothing machine
Polishing and cleaning machine

Various machines and machine models are available from manufacturers: Atom, Banf, Camoga, Cerim, Comelz, Durcopp Adler, Ecom, Elettrotecnica, Iron Fox, Knaoz, Matic ? Verdi, Mav, Mec-Val, Neve, Obe, Officina Meccanica, Pfaff, Rachioni, Selmac, Sicomec, Silpar, Volonte and others. All of them have representative offices in Russia.

However, delivery of the equipment, as a rule, is made strictly under the order. Related to this is the unavailability of the pricing policy of equipment manufacturers in wide sources of information. Therefore, the price of a particular machine will have to be found out from suppliers during the order or as a consultation.

Raw material

The main material for the manufacture of high-quality shoes is leather. Natural leather for shoe production is offered by the Moscow factory "Ronnon". In addition, there are many leather industries throughout the country. Among them: the Ostashkovsky tannery (Tver region), the Russian Leather factory (Ryazan), the Smilovichi tannery and others. As a rule, purchases are calculated in tons. At the same time, the most common minimum order is 1 ton, but there are factories ready for minimum orders from 300 kilograms. Depending on the type, the cost of leather varies:

from 100-180 rubles per square meter (bovine skin)
from 50 - 150 rubles per square meter (suede)
from 100 rubles per square meter (perforated leather)

Chemical materials for the production of shoes are provided by the company Titrus. Among chemical materials: finishing materials: finishes, liquids, creams, oils, edge and seam preparations, adhesives, reagents for preparing the surface for gluing, liquid polyurethanes for the production of soles, paints. Prices must be checked with suppliers.

Package

Shoe boxes are produced in special factories dealing with various packaging, ready to make packaging especially for you with brand or factory name. Among such manufacturers in our country are Planet Upakovka, Antek, Iris Pack and others.

Organization of production

The factory must have sufficient space for the installation of equipment and convenient work for operators. The required area of the factory, taking into account workshops, warehouses and office departments, can be up to 7 thousand square meters. As for operators, not all machines have automatic mode, therefore, machine workers will be required for almost every machine. For constant, uninterrupted production, you will need as many operators as will be enough to operate production in two shifts. On average, about 250 people will be required to work in production.

All necessary communications must be connected to the factory: electricity, gas and water supply, telephone installation. It is necessary to take into account the loads, in particular the electrical load, which, due to the operation of the machines, can be up to 50 kW.

Certification

Certification of footwear for adults is a voluntary process, for children it is mandatory. Manufactured shoes for adults are subject to mandatory declaration. Shoes intended for wearing, except for sports, national and orthopedic, must comply with a number of GOSTs. It is possible to receive a certificate of conformity and a declaration only for shoes without production damage, the same size in pairs, with correctly connected parts, etc. All shoes in Russian Federation subject to sanitary and epidemiological control.

Sales

As in many other cases of consumer goods production, the best option for the sale of shoes will be the conclusion of contracts with large Russian networks such as Ecolas, Tervolin, Aty-baty and others. There are a lot of such networks now, the main thing is that you have a product worthy of the consumer's attention.

Investments

According to experts' calculations, the investments required to create a shoe factory from scratch are about 180 million rubles. At the same time, taking into account the internal rate of return of 48%, the payback period will be up to 4 years.

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Shoes handmade in high demand due to quality and durability - usually handmade based on natural materials, requires higher quality requirements for the finished product. Accordingly, the price of hand-sewn shoes will be higher in comparison with products sewn in automated production.

Handmade footwear companies

Even in an age of maximum automation, handmade shoes are not outlandish. Classic English productions that are highly valued all over the world:

loake;

They make shoes from genuine leather and hand-sewn suede. In this case, there are much more stages of production than in mass automated production. A pair can be made within a month, depending on the type of material and the complexity of the shape.

In terms of shapes and designs, the most popular handmade boots are:

They differ in the type of lacing. Oxfords have closed lacing, hidden by the front of the boot. The side parts are sewn in a wedge shape, perforation is possible.

Derbies, on the contrary, have open lacing, and the side parts are sewn over the front part in such a way that when the laces are untied, the boots diverge freely. Derbies can also be perforated and are considered the most versatile shoe for any occasion.

The entire structure of the shoe is divided into upper and lower parts. The upper part consists of the following elements:

Sock - closes the toes, withstands the greatest mechanical stress when worn.
Vamp - covers the back of the foot and connects the toe, tongue and ankle boots.
Ankle boots - close the ankle joint, they are sewn to the vamp.
Grommet - the upper part of the shoe, designed for holes or lacing hooks.
Heel - protects the heel and foot, fixes the heel, made of hard leather.
Tongue - covers the upper part of the foot, sewn to the vamp.
Insole - connects the upper and lower parts.

As part of the bottom of the product:

Sole - sewn along the contour with the upper part, divided into soles, shank, welt and filler.
Heel - raises the heel and is attached to the sole, the top layer can be rubber.
Heel - protects the heel from rubbing.
Welt is a connecting element between parts.
Protective inserts - prevent abrasion of the lower layer of the heel.
Filler - fills the space under the insole, increases comfort during operation.
An arch support is a wooden or metal part fixed between the sole and the insole.

Knowing the design of shoes allows you to make every detail more efficiently, in accordance with its purpose.

Manufacturing steps

It will take a lot of time to make shoes with your own hands, but the process itself is simple and depends mainly on the correct measurements and quality. source materials. The whole process can be divided into nine stages.

Without this stage, tailoring of shoes by individual order is not complete, the same applies to clothing. Taking measurements is carried out mainly to measure the parameters of the future block.

Having prepared the block according to the standards, they sew a preliminary layout. To create it, they sew on a finished block of thin genuine leather. Here you should decide what kind of model the model will have, how the seams are located, whether there is a pattern or perforation.

A blank for a future pair of boots is cut from a sheet of natural suede or leather. It is important to leave a small allowance for compression and a seam - it is impossible to cut strictly along the contour of the measurements, otherwise the shoes will be small at least by one size.

Overcasting stage

The upper parts of the future pair of boots, sewn according to the patterns, are connected together. This is a time-consuming part of the work, since when overcasting the upper part of the boots, it may be necessary to turn the leather, trim the edge, and tint it.

Stretching the workpiece

At this stage, the block for the future pair of boots is already ready, as well as its upper part. Now this upper part is literally pulled end-to-end on a previously prepared block. At this stage, the most important step is the installation of the insole, since the convenience of using shoes depends on the correct installation of the insole.

Welt patch

A welt is a thin leather strip that connects all parts of the boot, already stretched over the block. This invention belongs to Charles Goodyear - thanks to his technology, shoes can be embroidered at the joints with a welt and repaired in case of, for example, a cracked last, sole.

The outsole can be made from different materials- they should be clarified in advance with the customer, suggesting to him the most suitable option for the desired pair. Often make leather or rubber soles.

The sewn-on soles are strengthened with small studs - the craftsmen use them for the straightness and reliability of the heel. The latter is recruited from thick leather in several layers.

Sole coloring

After sewing on the sole and stuffing the heel, it is necessary to paint them with the desired color - the choice of color depends on the tone of the shoes. When the applied paint dries, the pillow is polished to apply the signature of the master.

Polishing

Manual production of boots ends with the most important stage - polishing and finishing to perfect condition finished pair. After polishing, an even, elastic, perfectly cleaned pair with strong joints is obtained.

The Russian company Ralf Ringer is already 17 years old. She has three own factories (in Moscow, Vladimir and Zaraysk), the largest distribution network in Russia (over 1,700 stores) and the largest production of men's shoes in the country. In total, in 2012, she sold about 1.35 million pairs.

Shoe company Ralf Ringer

Location

Moscow city

opening date

1996

employees

3000 people

Annual turnover

2 billion rubles

Before the start of production, future shoes go a long way. A team of brand managers, based on global fashion trends, market analysis and sales results of the previous collection, creates a technical task. On its basis, fashion designers come up with a collection that is shown to the assortment department and company executives at the draft board. Next, models are selected that, in the general opinion, will be in demand on the market. For these models, a technological map and patterns are created, according to which the first samples are created in the experimental workshop. The already sewn collection is again shown to the expert council, which examines each style and model in stages, sends them for revision to fashion designers and approves the final assortment. Only now the collection is presented to buyers from various stores. Those models that they choose go into mass production.

The factory uses leather from four countries: from Russia - for rough men's boots, from Italy - for model classics, from Argentina - for semi-sports shoes, and from France comes the raw materials of high selection, which are used in the production of the most expensive models.

The pads take into account the structural features of the Russian foot. We have it wider and fuller than Europeans, so classic Italian shoes are often not suitable for our men. The width of the Russian foot can be not only a genetic feature, but also a consequence of orthopedic flat feet earned in childhood from uncomfortable shoes.

In this workshop, details of future boots are cut out. It is specially located on the first floor, because the presses for punching out parts are very heavy - they simply would not withstand the overlap.

This is how the insoles are cut. Each shoe (with rare exceptions, moccasins, for example - without the main insole), in order to maintain dimensional stability, necessarily contains an insole made of shoe cellulose - a very dense, thick material. She, like the bones in the human body, creates the frame of the shoe.

On the table are patterns tied with twine for a boot of a certain style and size. Each such part is inserted into the cutter, which, under pressure, cuts out the corresponding parts from the material.

This is a preparatory workshop where previously cut parts are processed. They are painted over, set on fire with a special blowtorch, bent, marked with a silver pencil. Then comes the labeling of the details: on each shoe there is data on the type of shoe, color, size and lot number.

An important nuance when creating a boot is that it should not have pronounced scars, seams that can injure the leg. In order for the shoes not to rub, the edges of some parts are grinded. To control the thickness of the skin, use a thickness gauge (pictured).

In the workshop where laser perforation is carried out, there is always a strong smell of burnt leather. According to the pattern set by the program, the laser burns neat "holes" in the skin.

An automatic belt passes through the workshop, along which boxes with products travel. In order for the specialist to perform his operation, the master puts the box on the tape, presses the number of the corresponding specialist on the remote control, and the box is sent to him. When the operation is completed, the specialist returns the box with the product to the master, who sends it to the next operator.

In this workshop, the main insoles are made, which are then attached to the upper blank, and then to the sole. The details of the insoles (main and heel) cut out on the ground floor are glued together.

This machine makes a recess in the insole, into which the arch support is then inserted.

The next steps are related to shaping the boot. To do this, first, an insole made of shoe pulp is nailed to the block with three studs. Then, in special machines, the toe and heel-gel part of the boot is tightened and glued on the block. The white threads on the bobbin in the photo are polyurethane glue that is heated inside the machine.

The boot passes through a special sauna, where it undergoes a moisture-heat treatment, as a result of which it finally takes the form of a shoe. Then the workpiece goes to prepare the attachment to the sole: the drawing is washed off, the boot is pre-primed and polished, and the excess long edge is polished with a coarse abrasive.

Then the block is removed from the boot, the insoles are inserted into it, treated with cream, tinted with water-repellent paints, additionally polished, steamed with a special mini-iron that straightens the inner toe. Shoes are also treated with carnauba wax, which is considered the most expensive material in shoe cosmetics. It is thanks to him that the shoes in stores look so sparkling.

For the correct formation of the top of the boot on the last, special production laces are used, which are replaced with ordinary ones at the end.

Then the finished boot is checked for compliance with the sample. If everything is good, they invest in it paper ball, wrapped and placed in boxes. The future collection is always presented in the showroom (pictured below) at the factory, as a sample.

More than 40 people work on each of our shoes. As a rule, it contains from 40 to 60 parts, each operation is done by a separate worker. In total, the factory produces about 3,000 pairs of shoes per day.

What is the difference between designer and factory shoes?

Many people are sure that good shoes does not have to be designer and that mass production is practically no different if it is well established and quality is controlled in the manufacture of each pair.

If we talk about serious companies, and we will only talk about them, then high-quality, branded and designer shoes are what people who value comfort, convenience, fashion and beauty need. However, there are quite significant differences that you need to know and consider when choosing your ideal pair. And you need to start with production.

Designer shoes from A to Z

The main and most important thing in production is labor intensity, involvement of several specialists, long production time, exclusive materials and design. In a little more detail, each model goes through several stages: a sketch (artists-designers), coordination appearance(designer and shoemaker), selection of material (shoemaker), selection and production of a unique last (master specialist), cutting and assembly (narrow specialists). It should be noted that there is no automation here at all, and all stages are carried out in "manual mode".

Each of these stages is quite costly in terms of time and effort. For example, in order for the leather to be as soft as possible, easily stretched and have increased wear resistance, it is kept on the block for up to 4 weeks! Then the fixing of the sole, which is carried out only by specialists of the highest level, because. in case of any failure, it will not be possible to save the couple. Finishing (gluing, stitching), logos, special impregnation…

Again, if there are special wishes or design requirements ( hand embroidery, “aging”, carving, degradation, etc.), then the period can stretch for a very long time.

Designer shoes go through all the stages every time, including the indefatigable imagination of the fashion designer and the professional hands of high-class craftsmen.

Mass production

There are several manufacturing options here and, of course, each of them affects not only the individuality of the models, but also the quality, volume and methods of sales.

Factory in large volumes

At plants and factories, a design is developed, a regular block and material are selected, automation is being adjusted and each model is manufactured up to 10,000 pairs. It is sold in bulk to warehouses, shops, shoe chains.

Factory in medium volumes

It can be manufactured in the same or smaller workshops, in private firms. Often the same materials and pads are used, but the volume is much smaller. Sales are carried out in their own stores.

Designer

First, only one model is made and submitted to the customer for approval. After approval, exactly the number of pairs and with the dimensions that he needs are performed.

Custom made designer shoes

Production takes place in a single copy, taking into account all the specified parameters (non-standard foot, concert costume, special requirements, etc.)

And finally. Due to the huge competition and the complexity of marketing, most shoe manufacturers carefully monitor the quality and mood of fashion, and therefore only one thing can be said: love yourself and your legs, and choose only those models that make your walk flying and your mood great. And designer shoes or not - it's not so important ...

The fact that comfortable and stylish shoes plays a decisive role in the construction of an individual image and is of great importance in Everyday life any man is beyond doubt.

Today it is simply necessary to be able to understand the types of men's shoes, choose shoes for different options clothes and competently care for this integral part of the wardrobe. It is equally important to understand why one should strive to buy the best men's shoes, which brands deserve respect in principle, and whether price guarantees quality.

I'm not rich enough to buy cheap things.

The relevance of this wise saying can hardly be overestimated. However, most people stubbornly continue to wear the cheaper and often less quality shoes, thereby not only damaging the style, but to some extent endangering their own health.

LOAKE

One of the most affordable English brands men's shoes good quality. The Loake brand has been operating since 1880 and since then 5 generations of manufacturers of prestigious handmade shoes have changed. According to the company, each exclusive pair of shoes takes about eight weeks to produce. To date, the brand has produced up to 50 million pairs of shoes, which are exported to more than 50 countries around the world. Loake are very comfortable and practical men's shoes for a wide range of consumers.

The country - England

The price of men's Loake shoes - from 175 euros

Wear comfortable and high-quality shoes, complement your look with expensive men's watches and other important accessories. This will surely give self-confidence, increase self-esteem and guarantee attention from women. Use a good men's perfume, take care of yourself, play sports and succeed.