Skirt with asymmetrical drapery. Instructions for printing patterns and sewing. Pattern of a skirt with drapery How to sew a skirt with drapery
A classic pencil skirt is a must-have women's wardrobe. Being universal, it is the basis of any image, giving it femininity and elegance. The history of its creation surprises with the variety of versions - the authors of the model are called both Coco Chanel and English women. But the popularity of the pencil skirt definitely owes to Christian Dior, who promoted it to fashion catwalks in the 40s. How to construct a pencil skirt pattern, what models can be created based on it, you will learn from this article.
We will need to take three sizes first:
- waist circumference (WT) - measure at the narrowest point, tightly wrapping the tape around the waist;
- hip volume (HV) – measured at the most convex places of the buttocks; for ladies with a “breeches” effect, we measure according to this volume, and to create a pattern we use a larger number;
- hip height (HH) - measure along the sides from the waist line to the hip line, after tying a thin ribbon along them for ease of measurement;
- product length (DI) – measure from the waist to the planned length.
Measurement locations - see the figure below.
Making a pencil skirt pattern: video master class
Designing various skirt models based on a basic pattern
Skirt with buttons: MK video
Pencil skirt with front slit and vertical flounce
For such a model, you first need to create the basic pattern of a pencil skirt with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on Anastasia Korfiati’s website you can download a skirt pattern for your size.
We copy onto tracing paper the front of the skirt in a full spread - see drawing.
For a pencil skirt with a slit, draw a vertical line and cut the pattern.
The back part for the skirt of this model does not change; we cut it out of 2 parts according to the basic drawing.
To the narrower part of the front we add an allowance for the vent. Its width is 8 cm, length is 14 cm.
On the larger part of the front we draw a shuttlecock.
We transfer all the elements of the shuttlecock onto tracing paper and glue them into a common part along the long sides.
Using a smooth rounding you need to create a beautiful outer side of the shuttlecock. How to do this correctly is marked in the drawing with a blue line.
Uncover
Main fabric:
- front part – 1 pc.;
- front side part – 1 pc.;
- back part – 2 pcs.
Black cotton fabric:
- part for processing the shuttlecock – 1 pc. (in blue in the drawing);
- belt – 1 pc. (length is FROM + 4 cm for the clasp, width – 7 cm).
Don’t forget to take into account seam allowances of 1.5 cm and hem allowances of 4 cm. We reinforce the waistband with thermal fabric, cut without allowances.
How is this model sewn?
We fold the large front piece and the piece of black fabric for finishing the flounce with the right sides inward.
We baste their outer edge and the outer edge of the slot. We sew together the details, cut off the allowances, and turn out the flounce. We sweep the flounce along the edge and iron it.
We process the side of the front part with an overlocker, tuck an allowance of 4 cm onto the vent, and baste it.
Place the central part of the skirt on the side, aligning along the line and basting.
We adjust along the alignment line to the slot.
Sew a zipper into the back seam. Baste and sew the side seams.
We turn the seam allowance at the bottom to the wrong side and sew it by hand with a blind seam.
We lay the slot and sew it with a hidden seam.
We sew the lower part of the flounce along the longitudinal side to the skirt with a hidden seam.
We sew in the belt and sew on the hook for the fastener.
Wrap skirt: video master class
Pencil skirt with decorative zippers: video MK
Leather pencil skirt
A skirt made of faux leather or leather looks great on any body type. The main thing is to decide what style and length of a leather pencil skirt suits you. For large women of sizes 56 or 58, you should not sew a short skirt. A long pencil skirt with a slit is better suited for them.
It should be noted that this type of material is well suited for business style. A jacket or jacket that matches your style will highlight your look. Long skirt made from eco-leather will look interesting with a sleeveless fur vest and leather boots.
Let's take a step-by-step look at how sewing is done leather skirt on an elastic band.
Comment
Keep in mind that not every sewing machine Can work on skin. If you have a thin skirt made of eco-leather or faux leather, the sewing process will be simplified. But, if the main material is thick leather, then you will need to sew some seams with an awl.
Measurements used to construct the pattern: DI=45 cm, OT=67 cm;
We will need:
- leather (eco leather) – 0.5 m;
- fabric for lining – 0.5 m;
- wide elastic band (4 cm) for the belt – 0.7 m;
- hidden zipper;
- sewing machine, scissors, leather needles, chalk.
Description
We are creating a pattern for a straight skirt.
We mark all the elements on the main material and on the lining. Cut out, leaving allowances of 1.0 - 1.5 cm.
Baste the details of the skirt and lining (separately), leaving the seam on the back unstitched.
We sew all the seams except the middle one on the back.
Iron seam allowances in different directions through cotton fabric or (for rough leather) tap with a hammer.
Baste and then stitch the leather and lining along the bottom of the skirt.
We sew a zipper into the central seam on the back part. We make the central seam of the back.
Sew on a wide elastic waistband.
The eco-leather skirt is ready!
Despite its deep gray color, this skirt doesn't seem all that conservative. The skirt is given a special chic by the drapery on the side parts and the stitched belt with a plaque. To model a skirt pattern with drapery you will have to tinker, but the result is worth it! And sewn from light fabric, such a model could well become a summer one.
Rice. 1. Modeling the front and back halves of the skirt
Modeling of the drapery of the front half of the skirt is shown in Fig. 2. The drawing also shows the middle part and the yoke of the front panel.
To process the top section of the skirt, additionally draw and re-draw 4 cm wide.
Rice. 2. Modeling the drapery of the front half of the skirt
How to cut a draped skirt
To sew such a skirt, wool crepe, gabardine, as well as any skirt fabric that holds its shape well are suitable.
From wool crepe, cut out the parts shown in Fig. 3. Seam allowances are 1.5 cm, allowances at the bottom of the skirt are 4 cm. Dark-colored details are duplicated with interlining. Be sure to read our tips for different types fabrics, as well as tips for working with pads.
Rice. 3. Pattern of a skirt with drapery - cut details
How to sew a draped skirt
Along the sides of the front and back halves, lay auxiliary stitches on areas b-b, stitch length 4 mm. Gather the sections to the desired length and distribute them evenly on the sides.
Sew the yoke parts to the side parts of the front halves. Sew seam allowances together and press onto yokes.
Sew the stitched waistband along the top and bottom long sides, turn it inside out, sweep it clean, put on the plaque, put the belt between marked a-a on the middle part of the front panel and baste. Sew the draped pieces to the middle pieces of the front and back halves of the skirt.
Baste and stitch the side seams. Overcast and press seam allowances. Along the middle seam of the back half.
Overcast the facings of the front and back halves reinforced with thermal fabric along the lower sides, stitch along the side seams. Place the facings on the product, aligning it along the top edge of the skirt, and stitch along the waist seam. Fold the facings upward, iron them, stitch along the seam, stitching the allowances to the facings. Then fold it back onto the product and stitch along the short sides to the back halves along the zipper tape. Fold the facings to the wrong side, sweep clean and iron.
Fold the skirt seam allowance along the bottom to the wrong side and hem it with blind stitches.
Your skirt is ready. Wear it with pleasure and be happy!
Question. Hello! On the eve of the New Year I want to sew such a skirt. Tell me how to model it?
Answer. To model this model, you will need templates for the front and back parts of a straight classic skirt. In this case, cascading drapery takes place.
Stage 1. On the front and back of the classic skirt, mark the yoke line. We close the darts and transfer their solutions to the yoke stitching line. We cut off the yoke.
Stage 2. We outline the drapery lines. According to the model, the drapery is “soft”, so it is better to design the lines curved.
Stage 3. We cut the parts along the marked lines.
Stage 4. To form cascading draperies, it is necessary to use parallel separation of the resulting parts. The amount of opening depends on the desired depth of the fold along the seam of stitching the skirt parts to the yoke.
Various options are possible here. You can make all the folds of equal depth, or, on the contrary, they can be different, for example, from deeper towards the center to less deep towards the side cut.
In the diagram, the blue dotted line shows the side cut. You can design a skirt without a side seam, although the fabric consumption will be greater.
Stage 5. We design the mold. You can build one-fourth of a circle. There are also different options for the size of the spread and the lengths of the segments.
Many women like draperies in clothing, because a tastefully made product, be it a blouse or a dress, not only looks impressive, but also gives maximum comfort to its owner. Soft flowing ones are one of the most popular modeling techniques, and dresses and blouses with a similar front or back bodice design look textured and very feminine. However, such drapery is used not only in shoulder products, but also in skirts and even trousers. In this lesson, due to numerous requests from our readers, we will look at a non-standard idea for designing a skirt with swing-type drapery.
IMPORTANT! If you decide to make such a skirt for yourself, we do not recommend increasing the length of the product too much, since in this case the design will change and the skirt will look different.
This model has a voluminous front half, and that is why it is ideal for slender girls and women. We recommend combining a skirt with swing drapery with cropped jackets, pullovers, turtlenecks or tops. We combined the skirt with a plaid fitted shirt, the front of which was tied in a knot at the waist - this technique allowed us to achieve the correct proportions and create a complete stylish look.
Model the pattern of a skirt with swing drapery according to. You can also visit our website in full size
Skirt pattern with swing drapery
The length of the skirt from the waist is 45 cm. Shorten the patterns of both halves to a length of 45 cm (Fig. 1). Narrow both halves along the side seams - along the bottom by 1.5 cm. Start narrowing 10 cm below the hip line. This completes the modeling of the back half of the skirt; we continue modeling the front half of the skirt.
Rice. 1. Modeling a skirt with swing drapery
Modeling the front half of the skirt
Move the waist dart to the side line (Fig. 1). Cut the front half of the skirt along line AA1 as shown in fig. 2. Move the left part to the left, to the vertical line AA2. Connect points A1A2 with a straight line. Cutting details are shown in Fig. 3. Mark the fold with an arrow (points A2-A1). Draw the front half thread perpendicular to segment A2A1 (see Fig. 3).
Rice. 2. Modeling swing drapery on the front panel of the skirt
How to cut and sew a swing draped skirt
To sew a skirt you will need: 0.55 m of rib with a width of 140 cm, threads, a hidden zipper 20 cm long, a strip of adhesive padding for the belt and bottom allowances.
Rice. 3. Details of the cut of the skirt with swing drapery
Lay out the parts on the material folded in half and cut them out with seam allowances on all sides - 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the parts - 3 cm (see Fig. 4). When laying out the parts, do not confuse the location of the lobe and transverse direction threads (!). Additionally, cut out a belt 8 cm wide (4 cm in finished form) and length according to your measurements: Waist circumference + 5 cm.
Rice. 4. Layout of skirt details with drapery on the material
How to sew a skirt with swing drapery
On the back and front halves of the skirt, duplicate the bottom allowances. On the back parts, press the allowances to the middle seam. Along the middle seam, overcast and press the seam allowances.
Sew the front halves along the middle seam, cut the allowances at the bottom, overcast and press. Sew side seams, overcast and press seam allowances. Overcast the bottom allowances, fold and hem. At the waist, sew a hook.
Rice. 5. The resulting soft fold before draping
Form a fold along the front of the skirt, drape the swing into a soft cascade, secure the drapery at the bottom with a couple of hidden stitches.
Advice! You can experiment with the drapery, giving it different shapes - one deep fold or several small ones.
You will find even more non-standard ideas and patterns on the website of the Anastasia Korfiati School of Sewing. Subscribe to free news and sew fashionable clothes together with us!
We will need to take three sizes first:
- waist circumference (WT) - measure at the narrowest point, tightly wrapping the tape around the waist;
- hip volume (HV) – measured at the most convex places of the buttocks; for ladies with a “breeches” effect, we measure according to this volume, and to create a pattern we use a larger number;
- hip height (HH) - measure along the sides from the waist line to the hip line, after tying a thin ribbon along them for ease of measurement;
- product length (DI) – measure from the waist to the planned length.
Measurement locations - see the figure below.
To draw a detailed skirt pattern with a pencil, let’s assume that these measurements are equal to:
- OT=70 cm;
- OB=98 cm;
- CI=74 cm;
- VB = 20-22cm (this is an average measurement, it is usually used to create the main pattern; if your parameters differ greatly from it, use your own numbers).
To create the base pattern, we will prepare paper (preferably graph paper, it is more convenient to mark down dimensions on it), a pattern, a ruler and pencils.
We start from the top left point, and from there we will move down and to the right.
Stepping back 5 cm from the top and left edge of the paper, we place a point (∙) A. Vertically down, we plot the length of the product – AD. On the right side we put half the volume of the hips plus 1 cm on loose fit= 98/2 + 1 cm = 50 cm – (∙) V. Draw lines DC and BC.
Side skirt line
Divide the drawn rectangle in half by drawing a perpendicular line to the segments DC and AB.
Hip line
From (∙)A we put down 20-22 cm - AL (= hip height). From (∙)L we draw a horizontal line, obtaining (∙)L1 and (∙)L2.
Calculation of dart sizes
Calculation formula (OB - FROM): 2 = (98 - 70): 2 =14 cm. Of these, we will remove 1⁄2 in the side darts (14:2): 2 = 3.5 cm for each. We set aside 3.5 cm from the side line and connect these (∙) with (∙) L2.
Extend the dart lines 1 cm upward.
If the difference between OB and OT is more than 14 cm, two darts are made at the back. The first is 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, its depth is 3-4 cm, length is 13-15 cm. The rest of the segment is divided in half, the depth of the second dart is 2-3 cm, length is 12-13 cm.
We connect (∙)1 and (∙)A, (∙)1 and (∙)B with a pattern curve. We divide the segment L L2 equally and draw a perpendicular to the segment AB. From (∙)B1, measure to the right along the red pattern line 5-6 cm (the same parameter for all sizes), draw a perpendicular to the hip line.
We distribute the remaining excess volume at the waist - 7 cm - into the darts of the back and front parts of the skirt. The larger part - 4 cm - will go to the back, the smaller part - 3 cm - to the front. The length of the dart on the back part is 12-13 cm, for the front part – 9-10 cm (the same number for all sizes).
We move the dart to the left 5 mm for beauty.
Please note that the deeper the dart is required, the longer it should be.
Divide the side lines in the areas from the waist to the hips in half and set aside 5 mm from these (∙).
Using a template or by hand, draw a side line.
We transfer the drawn patterns onto tracing paper or other paper. We indicate the direction of the shared thread.
The basic cut assumes a seamless front of the skirt. The back part is cut with a seam into which a zipper is inserted. A belt is attached to the waist line.
Making a pencil skirt pattern: video master class
Designing various skirt models based on a basic pattern
Tapered skirt with two flounces
For such a model, you first need to make the basic pattern of a pencil skirt with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on Anastasia Korfiati’s website you can download a skirt pattern for free.
On the constructed skirt pattern, we perform modeling, as in the figure below. We narrow both the front and the back downwards by one and a half cm. We begin the narrowing by retreating 10 cm from the hip line.
The estimated length of the skirt from the waist line is 70 cm.
We draw a flounce on the front part. Then we re-shoot it in an expanded form separately, adjusting the lower edge, smoothing out the stepped transitions at the junction points.
Cutting out a pencil skirt with flounce
This pencil skirt model can be made perfectly from knitwear or any dress fabric with elastane added.
To complete this you will need 1.7 m of fabric with a width of 145 cm. For the main cutting details, see below. In addition, we cut out a belt 7 cm wide (finished - 3.5 cm), length - along the length of the waist plus 3 cm extra for the fastener. To strengthen the belt, it is better to use thermal fabric.
When laying it out on fabric, keep in mind that the seam allowances should be 1.5 cm, and the bottom of the skirt should be 3 cm.
Sewing a skirt
We cut out all the details. We fold the flounce parts in pairs with the right side inward, sew along the rounded edge, turn it inside out, sweep this edge and iron it.
We bend the shuttlecocks along lines 1 and 2, avoiding asymmetry.
Baste and stitch the front and back darts. Iron it. We sew the flounces onto the front part of the skirt at the marked places on the waist and sides.
We sew the side seams, iron the allowances and finish the edges. If you are using this pattern for sewing knitted skirt pencil, then it is better to process the edges of the parts with an oblique silk facing. We sew a hidden zipper into the back seam.
Sew the belt around the waist.
We turn up the bottom of the skirt, stitching it with a double needle. You can do it differently - go along the edge with an overlocker, fold the edge and manually sew it with a blind seam.
Skirt with buttons: MK video
Pencil skirt with peplum
This model is suitable for slender girls. For ladies who are size 48 and above, it is better to choose skirts without hip-enhancing details.
First you need to build a pattern according to your measurements (see. step-by-step instruction above) or download it from Anastasia Korfiati’s website.
Deciding on the basque style. It can be different - the same length, the back extended in the center. Then we build a basque pattern.
For example, the finished pattern shown is drawn for a peplum length of 20 cm without differences in the profile.
To calculate, we use the formula: R = FROM: 6 – 1 cm. Draw a semicircle, and setting aside 20 cm from it, draw a second line.
To lengthen the back, we increase one side of the pattern to 25-30 cm. We draw a smooth line connecting the lower ones (∙).
Models of straight skirts with various frills look very impressive. You just need to take into account that the blouse in this case should be laconic, without ruffles.
Pencil skirt with front slit and vertical flounce
For such a model, you first need to create the basic pattern of a pencil skirt with your own hands or download it on the Internet for your size. For example, on Anastasia Korfiati’s website you can download a skirt pattern for your size.
We copy onto tracing paper the front of the skirt in a full spread - see drawing.
For a pencil skirt with a slit, draw a vertical line and cut the pattern.
The back part for the skirt of this model does not change; we cut it out of 2 parts according to the basic drawing.
To the narrower part of the front we add an allowance for the vent. Its width is 8 cm, length is 14 cm.
On the larger part of the front we draw a shuttlecock.
We transfer all the elements of the shuttlecock onto tracing paper and glue them into a common part along the long sides.
Using a smooth rounding you need to create a beautiful outer side of the shuttlecock. How to do this correctly is marked in the drawing with a blue line.
- front part – 1 pc.;
- front side part – 1 pc.;
- back part – 2 pcs.
Black cotton fabric:
- part for processing the shuttlecock – 1 pc. (in blue in the drawing);
- belt – 1 pc. (length is FROM + 4 cm for the clasp, width – 7 cm).
Don’t forget to take into account seam allowances of 1.5 cm and hem allowances of 4 cm. We reinforce the waistband with thermal fabric, cut without allowances.
How is this model sewn?
We fold the large front piece and the piece of black fabric for finishing the flounce with the right sides inward.
We baste their outer edge and the outer edge of the slot. We sew together the details, cut off the allowances, and turn out the flounce. We sweep the flounce along the edge and iron it.
We process the side of the front part with an overlocker, tuck an allowance of 4 cm onto the vent, and baste it.
Place the central part of the skirt on the side, aligning along the line and basting.
We adjust along the alignment line to the slot.
Sew a zipper into the back seam. Baste and sew the side seams.
We turn the seam allowance at the bottom to the wrong side and sew it by hand with a blind seam.
We lay the slot and sew it with a hidden seam.
We sew the lower part of the flounce along the longitudinal side to the skirt with a hidden seam.
We sew in the belt and sew on the hook for the fastener.
Straight skirt with vent
The vented skirt is modeled on the classic straight model. It features interesting details - a yoke with vertical raised seams, a vent along the back seam, fastened with buttons. You can easily pair this skirt with a light summer blouse.
We are building basic pattern according to your size or look for and download a ready-made one on the Internet. There are options on the A. Carfiati website different sizes, you can find online lessons on how to draw skirts.
How to make a pencil skirt pattern with a slot
Now let's start modeling. We put 15 cm down from the level of the hips. We draw the level of the yoke and cut it off. From the bottom (∙) dart we lower the perpendicular (red dotted line in the drawing). We cut the back yoke along the dart lines and the red dotted line. We draw a slot 8 cm wide.
For the front part, we repeat the level of the yoke and the perpendicular from the bottom (∙) dart.
For the back half we cut out 2 pieces. every detail.
For the front we cut out 2 pieces. side parts of the yoke and 1 pc. other parts with a bend.
In addition, we cut out the belt. Its length is FROM + 8 cm for fastening and loose fit.
How to sew
We baste raised seams on both yokes and stitch them with an indentation of 7 mm. Baste and stitch the seams on the sides of the yokes. We sew a hidden zipper into the central seam on the back yoke.
From the right side of the lower panel of the back of the skirt we cut a strip 4 cm long, leaving 4 cm for hemming the vent on the right and 8 cm on the left. We strengthen the allowance for the slot on both parts with thermal fabric. Fold and iron the right seam allowance, 4 cm wide. Sew the loops along the markings.
Fold the left seam allowance 4 cm and iron.
Place the right side over the left, basting at the top.
We sweep the lower panels of the skirt on the sides and stitch them.
We baste the yoke with the lower part. We sew, retreating 7 mm from the edge. Sew on the belt.
Wrap skirt: video master class
Draped skirt
The draped element on the sides and the buckle on the stitched waistband add special originality to this model. You can sew such a skirt using materials of different composition and color. The main thing is that they are soft, drape beautifully and keep their shape.
We start by building a basic model according to our dimensions or find ready-made pattern, for example, on the website of A. Korfiati.
Next, we will consider the modeling process step by step. We put 3 cm down from the waist line on the front part and draw a set-in belt 7 cm wide ( Blue colour on the pattern). The belt lines should be smooth. The belt is sewn between (∙) a-a. We remove the belt as a separate element.
Cut the front into two vertical parts along the auxiliary line (red). We cut the left part horizontally along the blue lines and spread the drapery between (∙) b-b, adding from 10 to 15 cm for folds.
The back of the skirt is modeled similarly, but without a yoke.
The drawing below shows the modeling of the front part and the middle part with the front yoke.
To process the top cut, we remove and draw facings on the front and back panels of the skirt, 4 cm wide.
Details for the pattern, their quantity - see below. Don't forget about 1.5 cm for the side allowances and 4 cm for the bottom allowance. Details highlighted dark color, are cut out, in addition to the main fabric, also from the interlining.
Description of sewing a skirt model with drapery
We sew the side parts with auxiliary lines with a long stitch (4 mm) in areas b-b. Gather them to the desired size, distributing them evenly.
Sew on the parts of the front yokes. We sew the allowances with one joint seam and iron them onto the yokes.
We sew the stitched waistband along the upper and lower long sides, turn it inside out, and sweep it out. We put on the buckle. We put the belt between (∙) a-a on the central part of the front and baste. Sew the draped parts to the central parts of the front and back of the skirt.
Baste and stitch the side seams. We overcast the allowances and iron them. We sew a zipper into the central seam of the back piece.
We reinforce the facings of the front and back parts with thermal fabric, overcast them along the bottom, and grind them down on the sides. We apply the facings to the skirt, matching them along the top edges, and sew them along the waist.
We bend the facings upward, iron them, stitch along the seam, grinding the allowances to the facings.
After this, fold it back onto the skirt and stitch along the short sides to the back halves along the zipper tape. Fold the facings to the wrong side, sweep and iron.
Fold the bottom seam allowance to the wrong side and sew it with a blind seam.
Pencil skirt with decorative zippers: video MK
Lace pencil skirt
This one is spectacular openwork skirt narrowed downwards, with a slit at the back. The upper transparent skirt is made of black lace, the lining is made of light fabric (satin or any mixed fabric).
The average length of the skirt below the knees is 66 cm, but you can sew such a translucent skirt longer by proportionally increasing the length of the back slit.
We build a basic skirt pattern or use a ready-made one, printed from A. Korfiati’s website.
We narrow the front and back halves by 1.5 cm. We draw new lines for the side seams, moving 10 cm down from the hip line. We mark the length of the cut at 1/3 of the length of the skirt.
For this model we need:
- lace 1.2 m wide - about 0.8 m;
- fabric for lining 145 cm wide - 0.7 m;
- zipper 20 cm long;
- threads
A transparent lace skirt is cut from:
- rear panel – 2 parts;
The petticoat is cut out from:
- front panel - 1 child. with fold;
- rear panel – 2 parts;
- belt - children A width of 8 cm, length FROM + 4 cm at the entrance of the fastener.
Place the lace details on front side parts of the petticoat, sweep in pairs around the perimeter. Next, the transparent skirt is sewn as a single-layer skirt.
On both halves we sweep and grind the darts. We sew in a zipper. Baste and sew the seams on the sides. We process the allowances with bias tape.
We reinforce the belt with thermal fabric, cut without seam allowances. Sew a belt around the waist.
The black lace pencil skirt is ready!
Leather pencil skirt
A skirt made of faux leather or leather looks great on any body type. The main thing is to decide what style and length of a leather pencil skirt suits you. For large women of sizes 56 or 58, you should not sew a short skirt. A long pencil skirt with a slit is better suited for them.
It should be noted that this type of material is well suited for business style. A jacket or jacket that matches your style will highlight your look. A long eco-leather skirt will look interesting with a sleeveless fur vest and leather boots.
Let's take a step-by-step look at how to sew a leather skirt with an elastic band.
Keep in mind that not every sewing machine can work with leather. If you have a thin skirt made of eco-leather or faux leather, the sewing process will be simplified. But, if the main material is thick leather, then you will need to sew some seams with an awl.
Measurements used to construct the pattern: DI=45 cm, OT=67 cm;
- leather (eco leather) – 0.5 m;
- fabric for lining – 0.5 m;
- wide elastic band (4 cm) for the belt – 0.7 m;
- hidden zipper;
- sewing machine, scissors, leather needles, chalk.
We are creating a pattern for a straight skirt.
We mark all the elements on the main material and on the lining. Cut out, leaving allowances of 1.0 - 1.5 cm.
Baste the details of the skirt and lining (separately), leaving the seam on the back unstitched.
We sew all the seams except the middle one on the back.
Iron seam allowances in different directions through cotton fabric or (for rough leather) tap with a hammer.
Baste and then stitch the leather and lining along the bottom of the skirt.
We sew a zipper into the central seam on the back part. We make the central seam of the back.
Pattern of a wrap skirt with drapery at the waist
The skirt has a straight silhouette, the right panel of which is gathered along the waistline, the hemline is rounded. This model is convenient for adjusting changes in waist circumference by simply changing a button or hook.
The skirt is good in everyday wear for any standard figure, except for figures with a protruding belly, since the assembly will increase it even more.
Wrap skirt can be made from any fabric of the dress group, excluding transparent fabrics such as chiffon.
To create a pattern for a skirt with a wrap and drapery, use a pattern for the base of a straight skirt.
Creating a skirt pattern with wrap and drapery
1. Draw the entire front panel of the straight skirt.
2. In the upper part of the skirt, the edges of the wrap-around parts should be located in close proximity to the ends of the darts.
Draw the outer edges of the wrap on the left and right sides of the front as shown in Figure 1. The edges of the wrap intersect at the line of the middle of the front panel about 10 cm above the bottom line.
3. To model the drapery (folds) from the dart on the left side of the front panel of the skirt, set aside half the solution of this dart (1 cm) towards the middle of the part and from this point draw the first cut line to the intersection point of the smells.
4. Move the dart to the cutting line.
5. Draw the second and third cutting lines as shown in Figure 1.
Note. The number and depth of folds depend on the chosen model.
6. Transfer the resulting two parts of the front panel with smells onto tracing paper.
7. Cut a dart on the right part of the front panel and make cuts along the three cut lines, without cutting the part at the bottom.
8. Move the resulting parts of the wrap skirt part apart by amounts approximately equal to 4-5 cm. The depth of the folds is determined by the model (Fig. 3).
9. Align the sections of the skirt on the resulting pattern.
10. Place folds in the direction specified by the skirt model and adjust the waist line.
11. Move the dart on the left front part towards the middle, as shown in Figure 4.
12. The pattern of the back panel of the wrap skirt remains unchanged (Fig. 2).
Sequence of sewing a skirt with wrap and drapery
1. Baste and stitch the darts on the front and back panels of the skirt, iron them to the center.
2. Gather the ruffle using two machine stitches or place pleats on the right front part of the skirt.
3. Process the edges of the sides of the front panel with stitched hems. To do this, glue the adhesive interlining to the wrong side of the hem with an iron. The width of the edging can be 3-7 cm. Place the edging face to face with the edge of the bead, and sew a seam 0.5 cm from the edge.
4. Iron the seam towards the hem.
5. Baste and stitch the side seams. Overcast the sections and iron towards the back panel.
6. Turn the hem to the wrong side of the product and sweep out the edging from the side of the bead by 0.1-0.2 cm and process the bottom of the skirt along its back half.
Skirt. Construction of skirt drawings
Draped skirts
The designs of skirts with drapery are based on a drawing of the base of a straight skirt. At the same time, the darts turn into drapery. The type of drapery depends on the structure of the fabric. Thus, silk and wool provide voluminous soft drapery, knitwear - flexible, plastic. Drapery made from these fabrics can be easily laid using bias and transverse threads. Rigid lightweight fabrics are draped only along the bias thread, forming clear radial folds.
Model 1 (Fig. 1)
Skirt with drapery along the dart line.
Rice. 1 skirt with draping along the dart line
Rice. 2. Drawing a line for the direction of drapery folds
Fig.3. Drawing along relief lines
Three small unpressed pleats emerging from a slanted, slightly curved dart create a draped effect.
The direction lines of the drapery folds are applied to the pattern of the front panel of the skirt (Fig. 2). The pattern is cut along the marked lines and spread to the desired size. The distance between the folds should not be the same: between the first and second it is approximately 3.5-4 cm, and with each subsequent one it decreases by 0.5 cm compared to the previous one (Fig. 3).
Model 2 (Fig. 4)
Skirt with asymmetrical drapery along the front panel.
Fig. 1 Skirt with asymmetrical drapery along the front panel
Fig.2. Drawing cutting lines
Rice. 3. Spreading the pattern along the cutting lines
With asymmetrical drapery, the pattern of the front panel of the skirt is built in full size. Drilling can be placed from the waist line to the hip line and below. If it passes below the hip line, then for greater elegance the skirt is tapered at the bottom along the side seams by 2-3 cm on each side. On the pattern, mark a cutting line along which the folds of the drape will be located (Fig. 2). It is not advisable to place them at the extreme points of the cutting line; it is necessary to retreat 2-3 cm. From the cutting line to the side seam, draw lines that determine the direction of the folds.
First, cut the pattern of the front panel of the skirt along the hem line (Fig. 3) and close the dart on its left side, and then along the intended drapery lines. The width of the folds ranges from 3.5 to 4.5 cm.
The back panel of the skirt is left unchanged.
Model Z (Fig. 4)
Softly draping wrap skirt along the front cloth
Fig. 1 Skirt with a softly draping wrap along the front panel
Fig.2 Cutting lines
Fig.3. Dividing along the cutting lines
The pattern for the front right panel of the skirt is made in full size. Mark the undercut lines (Fig. 2) along which the folds of the drapery will run. These lines go from the side seam to the bottom of the skirt to the dart at the waist at a distance of 5-6 cm from each other. According to the style, mark a rounded bottom line.
Along the marked lines, the pattern of the right front panel is cut and spread to the accepted size (Fig. 3) - from 10 to 15 cm.
The left front panel of the skirt is left unchanged, that is, with darts at the waist. The rear panel is also left unchanged.
The material is based on the book by T.N. Ekshurskaya. " Fashionable dress. Design"
Very similar to a spiral with additional chiffon wedges.
I looked at it on another monitor. Here it seems to me that the yoke is cut out with the corners of a square (more precisely, not a yoke, but the top of an ordinary straight skirt - the darts are simply not visible), and the sun is sewn to this thing, so the corners hang down like that. There is also a lining there, and it ends somewhere below the knee
Participant
From: Vilnius
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Participant
From: Moscow
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But I don’t remember where I stole it from - from some catalogue. All my links disappeared after reinstalling the system. I’ve already racked my brain, I can’t remember! This is where these models come from:
Maybe this will help someone identify the “master’s hand”!
Couldn't this skirt have the same cut as this dress, just with flared corners?
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Hello! I’m new. And I really need your help. I liked this skirt, but I don’t know how to cut it. That is. Everything is clear with the top, but the bottom. The wedges there are kind of incomprehensible. Maybe someone knows how this is done?
I don’t know the name of the fabric, it’s very similar to velor. Soft.
Regarding the folds. It seems to me that there are intricate reliefs there and they turn into SUCH tails.
I don't know how to make a pattern.
It seems to me that there are not wedges there, but folds that were not stitched to the end of the skirt and were topstitched with a double stitch.
Somehow she has everything deliberately “askewed” in front
What fabric do you want to sew with?
M.b. similar “wedges” may be useful to you below (modeling):
Design of the bottom of a spiral skirt (Merylin)
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Men's rocker jacket (biker jacket), help me find a pattern or tell me how to build it.
Thank you for your response!
That's the thing, it's not clear. I would like to hold it in my hands. Some wedge pieces.
The fabric is dense, but soft, not “dry” like velor.
Participant
From: Tolyatti
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Participant
From: St. Petersburg
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in my opinion, the shape of the skirt was achieved by machining the “sun” or “double sun” on a regular skirt, there are probably all sorts of tricky lines, because the design lines are not really visible on the drawing. IMHO
What follows from this? You should sew!
From: Tallinn+Fuengirola
Thank you said: 24074 times
Open albums
Judging by the technical drawing, the base is either straight, loose, with elastic on top, or half-sun. Direct is more likely. At the back, at the level of the ends of the darts, the bottom of the skirt is sewn to this design, which is sewn from two half-suns. They are sewn to each other in a mirror image. Again, judging by the picture, the bottom panel is sewn (in the seam of the yoke, or in the hem, perhaps) only in the center of the back. Then it is somehow attached periodically so that it does not fall, and in front the free lower ends of this structure are attached under the “apron”. Here. I can’t make it clearer yet, sorry.
It is easier to order this pattern than to try to recreate it from a modest technical drawing.
Sunny skirt with drapery. Building an asymmetrical pattern
Skirt with drapery. Building an asymmetrical pattern
» data-medium-file=»https://kroycad.ru/wp-content/uploads/YUbka-s-drapirovkoy.-Stroim-asimmetrichnuyu-vyikroyku1.gif» data-large-file=»https://kroycad. ru/wp-content/uploads/YUbka-s-drapirovkoy.-Stroim-asimmetrichnuyu-vyikroyku1.gif» />The sunny skirt with drapery that I offer you today is very feminine and interesting. It will suit slender, graceful girls without a prominent tummy.
Such a skirt with asymmetrical drapery running from the center front can be made from wrinkle-resistant fabric, moderately soft and dense. These can be suit fabrics, wool and wool blends, as well as other materials that fit these characteristics.
Let's look at this model.
Skirt with drapery. Design
- the silhouette is a pencil skirt, built on a regular basis;
- the direction of the drapery lines is symmetrical, but their combination (joining) is asymmetrical;
- drapery lines diverge from the center, reminding everyone of the familiar herringbone parquet;
- the back is without any features, in the central seam there is a zipper and a slot, which can be either open (slit) or closed (overlapping).
- The front panel should be made on one layer of fabric, and for the back panel, the fabric should be folded in half, as usual.
- When laying out the fabric on the wrong side, be sure to turn the front panel pattern face down.
- This pattern must have control points for proper assembly of the drapery.
- To check the accuracy of the pattern, fold the front piece along the center line. If you did everything exactly, then the bottom lines, side cuts and waist (almost all) of the right and left parts should match.
Skirt with drapery. Sewing order
We assemble the drapery in a certain order, indicated by numbers 1 – 4:
- First, we lay the bottom right (in the photo) fold (1). We fix it with pins.
- Place the bottom left fold (2). The blue (pictured) parts of the fold lines 2 should match. We grind down the blue areas.
- Place the top right fold (3). We fix it with pins. The green areas of fold 3 should match. Grind down the green areas.
- Fold the top left fold (4). We fix it with pins. The red sections of fold 4 should match. Grind down the red areas.
- The depths of the laid stock should be sewn into the joint seams.
Despite the fact that the contour of the front panel pattern has internal corners, technology and assembly make it possible to do without cutting them. Therefore, there is no need to cut the corners to the top.
It seems not difficult, but to ensure that the skirt does not end up skewed, great assembly accuracy is required.
You need to iron the front fabric of this model very carefully: ironing connecting seams, You should not touch the folded folds with the iron. It will be quite difficult to iron them later.
And now I invite you to watch the album and video on modeling this skirt and get to work.
If you found this article useful or interesting, I would be very grateful if you share it with your friends by clicking on the social network buttons.
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6 Comments
thanks for your nice answer .i do not read Russian so can i find an English or Frensh translation /
Welcome to my blog, sara. You can use google translator (for example).
re: Solar skirt with drapery
I hope you will understand English, but first I love your blog, I learned much of this, now I have a question about the Solar skirt with drapery, on the end how to cut by the folds. Thanks in anticipation
Astrid
Astrid, thank you for my blog appreciation. To my regret, my English is worse than my cutting and sewing. If I didn’t understand, you can draw your question and send it by e-mail [email protected]. But as I understand your question, you don’t need to cut folds. They fold (lay down) and must be ironed slightly in the direction as shown at the picture. Good luck!
Skirt patterns allow you to sew several completely different skirts using one pattern option. If you love to dance, then the patterns of gypsy and Spanish skirts will allow you to sew your own outfit for performances. And if you just follow fashion, or prefer your own, especially individual style, then this section will help you always look fashionable and stylish. Moreover, using this skill, you can sew an exclusive dress. There are many styles of skirts: godet, flared, sun, pleated, pleated, Scottish, spiral, mini, midi, maxi, and skirt patterns will allow you to realize any design fantasies. Below are some very interesting and practical different options skirt patterns: straight skirt patterns, “Godet” skirt patterns, “Sun” skirt patterns, straight skirt patterns with a flap cape, wrap skirt patterns, skirt patterns with a frilled mould, skirt patterns with an undercut and drapery, etc. which are easy to sew and pleasant to wear.
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