Straight dress with sleeves 3 4 pattern. Constructing a base pattern is the most understandable way (for beginners). Long sleeve dress

Greetings to all ladies who love beautiful, elegant clothes and are ready to create their own wardrobe! The dress is gaining another round of popularity, despite the dominance of trousers; in this regard, it is the most universal model that will suit almost everyone.

A straight dress with three-quarter sleeves in style is very versatile and will be useful for the most different situations. Its simplicity is its advantage. It is laconic and elegant. Pockets in the side seams make it more convenient and interesting. The two-seam sleeve creates a good and comfortable fit on the arm.

For this model you can choose different materials. It all depends on what result you want to get. Made from dense materials such as cotton or jacquard, the dress will look more statuesque and hold its shape well. Made from soft fabrics such as silk or wool, it will not look so strict.

BASIC DIMENSIONS FOR PATTERNS

Chest circumference – 96 cm

Waist circumference – 78 cm

Hip circumference – 102 cm

MATERIALS FOR WORK

Fabric 150 cm wide and 160 cm long

Nonwoven

Concealed zipper 22 cm long

PATTERN DETAILS

1 – Shelf (one piece with a fold)

2 – Back (two parts)

3 – Front part of the sleeve (two parts)

5 – Pocket burlap (four parts)

The pattern is given without seam allowances. It is necessary to add 1.5 cm along all sections, 3 cm at the bottom of the sleeves, and 4 cm at the bottom of the dress.

DESCRIPTION OF WORK

1. Sew the center seam along the back. Process the cuts and iron them.

2. Sew in a hidden zipper. See.

3. Sew shoulder seams. Process them and iron them onto the shelf.

4. Cut out the facing on the base of the top of the shelf as a separate part and duplicate it with non-woven fabric.

5. Finish the neckline with a facing as shown in.

6. Stitch on the shelf bust darts and iron them down.

7. Sew the side seams, leaving free space for entering the pockets.

8. Make pockets in the side seams. To help .

9. Finish the seam allowance along the bottom of the dress and iron it to wrong side. .

10. Sew elbow and front seams on sleeves. Process and iron.

11. Finish the bottom edges of the sleeves and iron the allowances to the wrong side. Hem by hand with a blind stitch.

12. Sew sleeves into armholes. Process the allowance.

The dress is ready!

The pattern of this model is quite simple and you can sew a lot based on it. interesting products, combining even several different materials.

Women's straight silhouette dress with three-quarter sleeves is suitable for ladies of the most of different ages. For young girls, you can make it from bright fabrics with beautiful decorations. For older ladies, these can be calmer, more discreet options that will look very stylish.

Fashionable women's dresses are varied, but there are basic models that have become classics and remain relevant forever. This dress is just one of them. It will become a great addition to any wardrobe. By the way, if you make it short, it can very well play the role of a tunic.

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Constructing a base pattern - THE MOST CLEAR METHOD (for beginners)

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Good afternoon I would even say a beautiful day. Because we are finally starting a series of articles on tailoring for adults. We have already sewn a lot of things for little girls - both dresses and bodysuits are different - now we will sew for big girls. That is, for myself. And since you and I have already practiced sewing, the fear of the pioneer has passed.

THAT MEANS IT'S TIME TO TAKE A NEW FRONTIER. And master the wisdom of sewing using real adult patterns yourself, with your own hands and your own brains. We will draw the base pattern ourselves - new the easy way(I spent more than one week creating this lightweight method for creating a base pattern). And then we will sew a bunch of all kinds of dresses, tops and tunics.

No- I won’t give you a single finished pattern!

I'm not Madame Burda. I am Madame Klishevskaya.))) And the main harmfulness of my character is... That I will make your head work and give birth to bright and clear discoveries in the field of sewing. The easiest and most understandable of all types of art. Believe me, this is true.

Yes- sewing yourself is very easy and simple!

Right from scratch you will get more and more beautiful and well-tailored things.

Moreover, you will do everything yourself, without a state of hypnosis, but in a sober mind and clear memory. YOU will DO it - moreover, you will UNDERSTAND what exactly you are doing.

I will tell you the secrets that I know. Moreover, I will teach you to discover more and more secrets of the world of sewing and clothing design.

I will not lead you (blind and stupid) by the hand in the chaos of letters and numbers denoting the intricacy of numerous lines of the design drawing. NO, I WILL NOT TAKE YOU HERE:

Well, you must admit, one such picture can instill fear and make a girl who doubts her own abilities really, really wants to sew a dress- But wasn't very friendly school years with geometry and drawing. Even I, who adores both of these school subjects, beat around the bush for several years, not daring to start delving into the construction of such a drawing: “How long will it take to draw something like this, and after all, everything must be calculated correctly and not get confused in the letters...”.

And, nevertheless, today we will draw a pattern.

We will draw a base pattern (you see a piece of it from above.))))

But - don’t be afraid - we will create our pattern a little differently. Away from the engineering design method - and closer to human understanding.

We will draw one for you - just one- pattern.

And then from it we will create more and more new dress models. And it will be very easy and simple.

• No confusing formulas
• No confusing calculations.
• And without the letter-number cobweb.

So how? Have I already alleviated some of your concerns?

I'll relax now - we won't start drawing right now. First, we'll take a nice stroll through the pattern. The purpose of the walk is to get to know and become friends with the pattern and remove the last doubt that you can sew any dress.

So... what is a pattern - the basis?

To put it figuratively, this is a cast of your body. This is your individual imprint. Any item sewn according to YOUR base pattern will fit YOUR figure perfectly.

Yes, you heard right - ANY THING can be sewn on the basis one single pattern. All dress models are born, modeled, and sewn from one source - this is the base pattern.

I will now prove it to you with an example. Even with three examples - in the form of photos and pictures.

Here is the first photo (below). Our pattern base is essentially your sheath dress (the one that fits your body perfectly). Dress made by yours pattern base, will follow all the curves your his bodies. This simple sheath dress is sewn using a regular base pattern. You see, it’s like a plaster cast of a girl’s figure.

And today, having drawn the base pattern, you can safely cut it on the fabric - and you will get a dress like this. The only thing you can change is the neckline - giving it the shape that suits your face shape.

All other (any kind) dress models are just a modification of a sheath dress - fantasies on a free theme.

This is how it happens in the fashion world.

One day a fashion designer thought...“What if the bodice of the dress at the top is held on the shoulders by a round yoke (yellow outlines - figure below), and the bodice itself is made in the form of overlapping intersecting triangles (red outlines - figure below). The result is what we see in the photo below.

Beautiful? Beautiful! What did the fashion designer base his fantasies on? Based on a pattern. And you can come up with something of your own. We women have just a lot of imagination.

By the way - since we're talking about round yoke— on this site there is already one of my articles on creating and

And another fashion designer thought: “What if you give the sheath dress a looser cut - make it wider. And make the shoulder line longer so that it hangs over the arm.” And in the end it is born new model(photo below) – also very beautiful. And it's very simple.

You can do this too. If you will UNDERSTAND what the base pattern consists of. And by what laws does it exist?

That is why I don’t want to stupidly give you instructions on creating a base pattern (like “draw a line from point P6 to point P5 and mark the place where it intersects line X with the next point...” - ugh!).

I want to awaken you bitch. I want you to feel the pattern, to know its soul. Haven't learned to see what a simple drawing hides behind a photograph of any dress, even an intricately tailored one.

Therefore, for the next 30 minutes we will not draw anything - we will walk through the pattern itself. Let's get acquainted with all its elements - find out what each line serves, and why it is located here and drawn this way.

After such an “educational walk” you will feel a joyful clarity of understanding of everything, everything, everything. It's as if you've already drawn basic patterns many times. And you will take up the drawing with the feeling that this is a couple of trifles. Ha! Business!

As the sage said: “We are afraid only of what we cannot understand and explain logically. But as soon as the thing that frightens us becomes clear to us, it ceases to cause us fear.”

So let’s go and tame this “terrible beast” - the base pattern. Let's tame and draw in 20 minutes. Yes, yes, in 20 minutes - because after a walk - the pattern drawing will seem old and familiar to you simple drawing- like a grid for playing tic-tac-toe.

Where does the base pattern come from?

So where does the base pattern come from - usually it is obtained from the following drawing:

The drawing contains half of the back part + half of the front part.

We will also draw a similar drawing with you - only more simple and understandable.

And what these halves are needed for, and where to use them - now I will clearly show everything.

Here (!) I dug up a wonderful sample - below - in the photo black and white dress Our halves are very clearly visible - both the back half and the front half. So to speak - clearly and understandably.

Yes, in the Potnovian language the halves are called “shelves”. Today we will draw these same front and back shelves. But first, let’s take a closer look at what elements each shelf consists of. And most importantly, I will tell you why each element is needed and what it serves.

To make everything as clear as possible, I will illustrate each of the elements both in pictures and in photographs of real dress models.

First, let's get acquainted with two incomprehensible words: DOT And ARMHOLE.

Of course you may know them. Or maybe not. My job is to introduce you.

So, meet - PROYMA

When drawing a base pattern, you will create exactly that bend and size armhole that suits you – when the armhole does not pull or dig into your arm.

That is, the pattern base contains acceptable minimum size armholes. You can model the armhole to your taste, in any configuration. But your fantasy armhole should not be smaller than on the base pattern. That is, the armhole is based on a pattern - These are the boundaries beyond which your imagination should not cross.

Your model armhole can be as large as you like - but it cannot be smaller than on the base pattern. More - yes, less - no - otherwise it will dig into the armpit. This is the rule in modeling designer armholes.

Now let's get acquainted with the darts.

BACK DARTS – shoulder dart + waist dart

In the picture above, I wrote everything about the back darts - and in the photo of the dress you can find 2 waist darts - one to the right of the zipper, the other to the left of the zipper.

But you don’t see the shoulder dart on this dress. And many dresses don’t have it either. Because for convenience and beauty, this dart is moved from the middle of the shoulder to the zipper (or along the edge of the armhole, where the sleeve will be, a corner is simply cut off). That is, the excess fabric is not pinched at the middle of the shoulder and is not sewn inside the dart. And the extra fabric cut in the form of a corner at the edge of the shelf, where the zipper is sewn in, or at the edge of the armhole - where the sleeve will be sewn in.

Also, darts are not necessary if you sew from stretch fabric - it itself follows the curves of your body and shrinks both in the shoulder and waist areas.

Let's get to know each other next... DARTS ON HALF FRONT

Oh, I could write a whole poem about her.

I spent a long time wondering how to explain more clearly - why it is needed and by what laws it lives. I thought and thought... and came up with an idea.

The fact is that a woman has breasts.))) That is, from the front, an adult girl is no longer flat. This means that the dress should be convex in the chest area. The dart on the front shoulder gives the dress that same bulge in the bust area. Now I’ll show you everything in pictures. How does this happen.

For example, we have a flat piece of fabric, but we need to make a convex piece out of it. To do this, you need to make a tuck on it. For example, this flat circle of cardboard will now become convex with the help of a dart.

And here's how a bust dart creates a bulge on the front detail

You will notice that the top of the convexity (that is, the peak of our round pyramid) is at the tip of the dart. Pay attention to this. Because when we draw the bust dart, the point of our dart will be at the top of the chest(where the nipple or bra cup is usually located).

Remember that sometimes you tried on a dress in your size in a store, which somehow strangely skewed on the chest - this is because the dart in the dress with its point was directed by the tops of your chest. So the breasts did not fit perfectly into the bulge of the dress. This product was not cut at the factory to suit your breast shape.

But that is not all, what I want to say about the chest dart.

The fact is that in almost all dresses this chest dart is located not on the shoulder- A on the side just below the armpit. This is done for beauty. The dart on the shoulder catches the eye more, but on the side, and even covered by the hand, it is not noticeable.

When creating a base pattern, we draw a chest dart on the shoulder only because it is more convenient to draw there from the point of view of constructing a drawing.

And after the drawing of the base pattern is ready, we very easily and simply transfer the dart from the shoulder area to the armpit area. Don’t think that you need to make new drawings for this. Nope, everything is simple here - like opening a carton of milk - one minute and that’s it.

Here, in the picture below I schematically depicted transferring the bust dart from the shoulder to the side seam under the arm.

Well, do you already feel how wiser you have become in these 15 minutes?))) Or there will be more... Let's continue our walk through the pattern and now let's get acquainted with the lines. Horizontal lines

CHEST LINE

The first acquaintance is the chest line. (It’s a beautiful dress, isn’t it? We’ll make it for you. Don’t even hesitate)

The bust line is the most remarkable line on the pattern. It is so convenient to focus on it when drawing a base pattern because:

• We know that we finish drawing the back waist dart at the bust line.
• We know that we finish drawing the front waist dart not reaching 4 cm from the chest line.
• We know that the shoulder dart is in the front - we finish drawing it at the chest line.
• We know that the lower edges of the armholes also follow the bust line.

Well, no, of course, you don’t know that yet. I will give all these simple rules when we start drawing. And now I just want you to know that when drawing many elements of a pattern, you can simply focus on the chest line (and there is no need to painstakingly put down these letter-number dots).

As you can see, there’s a lot of everything!! Therefore, go ahead - study, sew and enjoy life)))

WHAT TO DO NEXT - WITH THE PATTERN BASE? - you ask

And we will start sewing according to the base pattern of the TOP. Namely tops, T-shirts, tunics and then dresses.

You might ask, “Hey, why not just dresses?” I give the answer to this question in the first article of the series. So to be continued)))

Happy sewing!

In the world modern fashion there are many dresses and they all fit different types figures. For some girls and women, a sheath dress accentuates their shape, for others it adds a sparkle. fluffy skirt, and some people like a long, floor-length outfit - modesty and lightness. And yet there is one thing that is suitable for absolutely any figure - a straight dress, a pattern for which is easy to find or make yourself.

Simplicity and elegance

The straight dress is universal in its way, but far from tasteless and banal. Hidden in his form several big advantages. A moderately loose cut, on the one hand, emphasizes the lines of the figure, plays on it, and on the other hand, gives a slight touch of mystery. A straight dress can be easy for warm season and warming for cold - it all depends on the selected fabric.

In boutiques and stores you can find many options and styles of straight dresses. But at the same time, making it with your own hands will be much more pleasant, choosing the length, color and material for the product to your taste.

The pattern for a straight-cut dress is based on a universal pattern-the basis of the product according to the figure. Changing the original version is not difficult. For convenience, you can immediately draw the desired silhouette.

For a clear example, we will take dress patterns size 52.

Finished measurements (in cm):

• chest volume (Og) - 103-104;
• waist size (from) - 92;
• hip volume (Ob) - 112;
• back length to waist - 44;
• dl. front to waist - 49;
• back width (half measure) + increase - 20.5;
• 1/2 chest width + approx. - 23;
• shoulder length - 12;
• neck circumference - 40;
• armhole depth - 22;
• armhole width - 13;
• chest center - 23;
• hip height - 25;
• product length - 100;
• sleeve length - 49;
• sleeve length to elbow - 33;
• Sleeve width along the hem line is 29.

A straight dress with 3/4 sleeves looks most elegant. The silhouette of this piece will fit your body perfectly.

Constructing a pattern

The measurements were selected according to the standard, but if the needlewoman there are doubts regarding some parameters, it is better to go to a professional seamstress and ask for help. If a woman has a standard figure, then there is nothing to worry about.

So, to figure out how to cut a straight-cut dress, you first need to acquire necessary tools . For this you will need:

• graph paper (about 1300 mm long);
• a simple pencil;
• ruler;
• pattern.

Back and shelf

The drawing begins with the construction of the rear part and smoothly transitions to the construction of the front.

From the upper left border of the paper go down 15-20 cm = t.A1. From A1 to the right, set aside a length of 55 cm (this is the half-circumference of the chest + the overall freedom of fit) = t.B1. From points A1 and B1 downwards, draw two parallel lines of 100 cm each = t.A2 and t.B2. Connect them together.

From A1 downwards put 22 cm = t.G1, the same amount is moved down from t.B1 = G2. Connect G1 and G2. Along the line Г1Г2 from left to right, sequentially put aside the measurements 200 cm (Ws) = t.S, 12 cm (Shp) = t.R and 23 cm (Wg) = t.G2. Draw two verticals from t.C and t.R to A1B1 = t.M and t.R.

From A1 and B1, set aside 44 cm = t.T1 and t.T2. Connect the resulting points = waist line. From T1 and T2 downwards set aside 25 cm = t.L1 and t.L2. Connect the points together to form a hip line.

Next, divide the segment CP in half = t.O1. From O1 down to A2B2 draw a line O1O2. Divide both lines CM and RP into 4 equal parts = auxiliary points M1, M2, M3 and R1, R2, R3. t t.A1 set aside 7.2 cm to the right and up 2 cm = t.K. From K to A1, use a template to draw a neck line.

From t.M downwards set aside 1.5 cm = t.U. From t.K through t.U draw a line 13 cm long = t.V. From point V through M2, M3 and O1, draw an armhole line using a template.

From T2 rise 49 cm = t.W. From t.R rise 50 mm. From t.Sh to the left draw a line to the rise from t.R.

From t.Sh to the left move 72 mm = t.Y1 and from it drop 82 mm = t.Y2. Draw a neck line using a template.

Move 4 cm from Y1 to the left and 1 cm down = t.N1. Draw Y1N1. From G2 to the left by 11.5 cm = t.G3. Connect G3 and N1 with a segment. Find the middle of the latter and draw a horizontal segment from it = 4.5 cm to the left. From G3, through the end of this segment, draw a line equal in length to G3N1 = t.N2.

Connect N2 and M1 with a temporary dotted line. On it from N2 put 9 cm and down a perpendicular equal to 2 cm = t.N3. Connect N2N3.

Using a template, draw the armhole through points N3, R2, R3 and O1.

Side dart. Place point T3 at the intersection of T1T2 and O1O2. From T3 to the right and to the left, set aside 20 mm = t.S1 and t.S2. Connect these points to O1.

It should be noted that the width of the pattern is not enough for the volume of the hips. To correct this, you should increase the width to the front and back along the hip line. To do this, from the intersection point of L1L2 and O1O2, take 23 mm to the right and left. Connect the resulting points with the waist ones and draw parallels all the way down, like the red and blue lines shown in the figure. When cutting out the pattern, simply glue the missing part.

3/4 sleeves

Place item A1 in the upper left corner. From it to the right, draw a line 40.5 cm long and place point B1. From B1 and A1, go down 49 cm = t.A2 and t.B2. Connect them with a straight line. A rectangle has formed.

From A1 go down 165 mm = t.P1. From P1, draw a horizontal line to the right to B1B2 = t.P2. From A1 go down 33 cm = t.L1. Similarly, with P1P2, draw a horizontal line = t.L2.

Divide line A1B1 into 4 equal parts = t.O1, O2, O. From these points, lower perpendiculars to line A2B2 = t.H1, t.H2 and t.N.

Connect points P1 and P2 with a dotted line to T.O. Crossing the lines O1H1 and O2H2, they form points K1 and K2. Find the midpoints of the resulting dotted line segments = t.Y, N, X, S. From Y, put a perpendicular inward = 5 mm = t.Y1, from N perpendicular. outward 2 cm = t.N1, from X outward per. = 1.5 cm = t.X1, from S to the inside of the per. = 2 cm = t.S1.

From K1 rise up 1.5 cm = t.K1′. Using a template, draw a smooth line along points P1, Y1, K1′, N1, O, X1, K2, S1, P2.

From point A2 to the right 135 mm = point F, from point B2 to the left - 65 mm = point Z. From Z rise 2 cm = Z’.

Draw a dotted line from P2 to Z’, at the intersection with L1L2, set aside 10 mm to the left = t.L3. Connect P2, L3 and Z’ with a smooth line. From L1 to the right, set aside 20 mm = t.L4. Draw a dotted line L4F, find its middle and put 10 mm outward = t.D.

Draw a smooth line along points P1, L4, D, F.

From t.H rise by 10 mm = t.1, from t.H2 - by 20 mm = t.2. Smoothly connect F, t.1, t.2 and Z’.

You can sew a dress their wide variety of fabrics: natural, synthetic and mixed. When transferring the pattern onto fabric, place lines A1A2, Y1B2 and O1 parallel to the grain thread, otherwise the product will not work.

It is better to trace the pattern with a piece of chalk or soap, rather than with a pencil or pen (it’s easier to wash off). Basically, allowances are left at 1.5-2 cm.

Attention, TODAY only!

This dress goes well with a straight short coat or raincoat.

ADVICE! So that the patterns open in full size— open each in a new window!

Straight dress with sleeves - details

Figures 1 and 2 show the front and back views of the dress.

Rice. 1. Straight dress with sleeves - front view

Please note that there are no darts or lace stripes on the back.

Rice. 2. Straight dress with sleeves - back view

Pattern of a straight dress with sleeves - modeling

The pattern of a straight dress with a sleeve is modeled according to (with an increase of loose fit 1.5-3 cm), built to your measurements. additional construction is underway.

Rice. 3. Pattern of a straight dress with sleeves - modeling the front and back

Rice. 4. Sleeve modeling for a straight dress

Rice. 5. Pattern of a straight dress with sleeves - details

Description of work:

On the dress front pattern, set aside 1.5 cm upward from the armhole on the side. Draw a slightly curved line to the mid-front line. Draw another line in parallel - 7 cm above the first.

Draw a new line for the neckline, leaving 4 cm upward.

Deepen the neck of the back by 2 cm and 4 cm (along the shoulder). Remove the tackle darts. Additionally, remove from the pattern a one-piece facing of the front neck and back neck of the dress, each 3 cm wide.

Cut the front pattern along the marked lines and glue the parts in pairs, slightly straightening the corners (see Fig. 5).

Model the sleeve as shown in Fig. 4. Cut the sleeve horizontally into 3 parts. Cut out the middle part of the sleeve from lace.

Pattern of a straight dress with sleeves - cut details

Rice. 6. Pattern of a straight dress with sleeves - cut details

For the dress you will need crepe white 145 cm wide and 1.8 m long. The lace is 10 cm wide and about 1.0 m long.

From the main fabric, cut out all the details, with the exception of the lace inserts. The number of parts is indicated in Figure 6. Cut out all the parts along the grain thread with a seam allowance of 1.5 cm, along the bottom of the dress and sleeves - 4 cm.

How to sew a straight dress with sleeves

Baste and stitch the front and sleeve parts with lace inserts, stitch, trim allowances, lay on the main fabric, iron.

Baste and stitch the front and back along the side and shoulder seams, sew the sleeves along the seams, trim the allowances and press them.

Sew the sleeves into the armholes, slightly seating them at the edges. Process the allowances taken together.

Finish the neckline of the dress.

Turn up the seam allowances at the bottom of the dress and sleeves and hand baste with blind stitches. Your dress is ready! Meet autumn with us and be happy!