Pattern for a women's shirt with long sleeves. Modeling lesson: Pattern for a women's fitted shirt. Important! Iron either the collar or the stand separately so that the collar does not lose its shape

In this article I have collected the entire process of sewing a shirt, as they say from A to Z!
The author of this miracle: Elena Kucherova is a professional seamstress. So, please don’t praise me too much))

What does the post include:
First of all, the easiest shirt pattern I have ever seen!!!
Next: sewing, transferring darts, video fitting, fitting, and many little tricks!

I wish you creative inspiration and good luck in realizing your plans!!!

Increases in looseness of fit for shirts

To begin with, I decided to give the raises the attention they deserve. Please note that we are now talking about sewing a dress shirt from non-stretch fabric.

Actually, why should we make increases to the measurements?

People tend to move, especially active girls like you, my dear subscribers. Well, let's not move, at least breathe.

Therefore, we can determine the smallest increase in freedom by measuring our chest circumference and taking a deep breath. I checked, 2 cm are added to the chest circumference.

That's it, we've determined it. The smallest increase in chest circumference is 2 cm. With such an increase, you will get the same shirt as the girls from the post “Always fashionable shirt”

But, if you plan to not only breathe in this shirt, but also move, then the looseness allowance to the chest circumference should be increased to 6-8 cm. We get a semi-adjacent silhouette.

For a completely loose shirt, we give an increase of 8 cm.

Now to the thighs.

The increase in the freedom of fit to the circumference of the hips (we move this area less intensively) is usually taken as 0.5 from the increase in the chest. But at least 2 cm.

I don’t give an increase to the waist, since during construction we make waist darts minimal, and remove the excess during fitting.

An increase in the width of the back (Ws) and the width of the chest (Shg) is also important.

To the width of the back you need to add 4 cm, to the width of the chest - 80% of the increase in the width of the back.

When you start drawing, you will understand how much to add to the width of the back and chest. It should correspond to the length of the shoulder and the overall width of the product in the chest area.

We add lengths only if you are sewing a very loose shirt. Then add 0.5 cm to Dpt (Length of front to waist) and Dst (Length of back to waist).

We will increase the width and depth of the neck after construction.

Building a shirt pattern

1. Draw a horizontal line. This is the waist line. We sign so as not to get confused.
2. Stepping back 5 cm from the right edge of the paper, place a point on the waist line through which we draw a perpendicular. This is the mid-front line.
3. From the waist up along this line in the middle of the front, we place the DTP measurement (Front Waist Length). Let's call the resulting point O.
4. To point O we draw a perpendicular to the left.
5. Along this perpendicular we plot the value Osh (Neck circumference): 6. Let’s call the resulting point Ш.
6. Down from point O we set the depth of the neck. It is 1 cm larger than the width.
7. Further to the left of point Ш we place the measurement Дп (Shoulder length). We call point P.
8. From point P down, set aside 4 cm for the shoulder bevel. Let's call the point P1.
9. Draw line ШП1. Extend a little beyond point P1.
10. From the waist down along the middle line of the front, set aside the value of O (hip circumference): 5.
Draw a perpendicular to the left from the resulting point. This is the hip line. Let's sign.
That is, the distance from the waist line to the hip line is calculated using the formula Ob:5.

1. From the middle of the front along the hip line, set aside the value of Ob (hip circumference) plus the increase in the hips: 2.
From the resulting point we draw a perpendicular upward. This is the line of the middle of the back.
2. Along the line of the middle of the back up from the waist, we put aside the measurement Dst (Length of the back to the waist). We call the resulting point O1.
3. From point O1 to the right we draw a perpendicular. We set aside the value Osh (Neck circumference): 6. Place point Ш1.
4. Place 2 cm down from point O1. This is the depth of the neck.
5. From point Ш1 to the right, set aside the measurement Дп (Shoulder Length) plus 1 cm for fit. Let's call the point P2.
6. From point P2 down, set aside 3 cm to bevel the shoulder. We get point P3.
7. Draw line Ш1 П3. Place the measurement Dp + 1 on it again.
8. We check whether the measurement in the drawing corresponds to Vpk (the height of the shoulder is oblique). If it’s more, leave it until you try it on. The main thing is not less. If less, then reduce the shoulder bevel (distance P2 P3).
9. From the waist line, place the measurement Wb (Side Height) up. Draw a line from the middle of the back to the middle of the front. Let’s label it “chest line.”

We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the chest line.
Og2 (chest girth 2) plus the increase in the chest divided by 4. Now add 2 cm to the front, and subtract 2 cm from the back.
For example, Og2 is 100 cm. Plus an increase in the chest of 8 cm.
It turns out (100+8):4=27. The width of the shelf will be 27+2=29. Back width 27−2=25.
We set aside the resulting values ​​along the chest line.
Let's call the resulting point of the shelf width Bp, the back width - Bs. They will still be useful to us.
At the waist line we make the shelf and back 1-1.5 cm narrower than these parts at chest level.
We set aside the resulting values ​​along the waist line.

We calculate the width of the shelf and back along the hip line.
It is calculated in the same way as for the chest.
About (hip circumference) plus the increase at the hips divided by 4. Add 2 cm to the front, subtract 2 cm from the back.
We set aside the resulting values ​​along the hip line.
Draw a side line by connecting the corresponding points on the line of the chest, waist and hips.

Let's build a shelf.

1. From the line of the middle of the shelf, draw a parallel line at a distance Cg (Center of the chest): 2.
Let this line start from the hip line and end at the shoulder line.
At the intersection of this line with the shoulder line, let's put point G1.
2. From point G1 down to the resulting line, set aside the measurement Bg (chest height). Let's call point G.
3. From point G1, we put the value (Og2− Or1)+5 to the left along the shoulder line. Let's call the point G2. We connect points G2 and G. The result is bust dart.
4. Fold the paper, closing the dart. With the dart closed, we continue the shoulder line from point W through point G1.
5. Place the measurement Dp (Shoulder Length) on the new shoulder line.
6. With the dart closed, set aside the measurement W (chest width) plus the increase. We draw a line for marking this measurement in the middle between the neck depth and the side height line.
7. Draw a smooth line from the point of the end of the shoulder, through the width of the front to the point Bp. This is the armhole line. This is where we will sew in the sleeve.
8. Check that the armhole line makes a right angle with the shoulder line. If not, adjust without reducing the length of the shoulder.
9. From point G down, set aside 2 cm. This is the beginning of the waist dart of the front. The end of this dart will be at the hip line. Set aside 1 cm at the waist on both sides of this dart. Draw a dart.

Let's finish the back.

1. Place the measurement Shs (Back Width) plus the increase in the middle between the neck depth and the side height line.
2. Draw a smooth line through points P3, the width of the back to point Bs.
3. Parallel to the line of the middle of the back, at a distance equal to Cg (Center of the chest): 2 −1. draw a line. This is the line of the waist dart on the back. It goes from the hip line to the side height line.
4. On the waist line from this line, set aside 1 cm in both directions. This is enough before trying on. We connect all sides of the dart.

The drawing is almost ready. It remains to make small adjustments specifically for the shirt.

1. Deepen and widen the neckline by 1 cm on the shelf and on the back. This is to avoid being suffocated by the collar.
2. Draw another line parallel to the line of the middle of the front at a distance of 6 cm. Our shirt will be fastened with a placket.

Look like that's it.

Now the important thing! We measure and check the drawing for compliance with the measurements.

We transfer the dart

For a checked shirt, we cannot leave the chest dart on the front where it is - in the shoulder seam. It is necessary to move the dart to the side seam. There, the cell displacement will be less noticeable.

This is done simply: draw a line from the side seam (start 5-7 cm below the armhole) to the starting point of the dart. We cut the pattern along this line, open a new dart, while simultaneously closing the old one. The only thing is to make the new dart 2 cm shorter.

Here is a picture of my cut. The new starting point of the dart is marked with a pink line.

If you want, you can cut out yokes on the shelves and/or back. Simply draw the desired yoke line on the pattern and cut.

Everything else is in order, you can start cutting.

It is, of course, more convenient to use full pattern shirts, not half. If you are not too lazy, then finish drawing the second half of the back.

When cutting checkered fabric we will take into account following rules:
We place the most noticeable stripes in the middle of the main parts, sleeves, yokes and collars.
We place the dominant transverse stripes at the bottom or along the sleeve.
Do not place bright stripes at chest, waist or hip level - they expand the silhouette.
The transverse stripes must match at the seams. It is easier to combine the cells if you lay out adjacent parts side by side when cutting. You can focus on the bottom, or along the waistline.
It’s luxurious when the checks on the shoulder seams match.
The pattern on the pockets and flaps must match the pattern of the parts on which they are located. If you don’t want to suffer, cut out small details and yokes at an angle of 45 degrees. By the way, this will decorate the shirt.
If you do cut the fabric by folding it in half, pin it often and often to avoid shifting.

Important!
Having pinned the parts onto the fabric, check again the coincidence of the cells, the direction of the grain, and the seam allowances.

Construction of a sleeve pattern

Now about the sleeve.

1. Draw two perpendicular lines. Let's call the intersection point O
2. Calculate the height of the rim. Measure the length of the armholes of the front and back, fold and divide by 3. For a shirt, subtract 1 from this number. For a short wide sleeve - 2 cm.
3. Set the resulting value up from point O. We get point O1
4. Calculate the width of the sleeve: shoulder girth (Op) plus an increase in freedom of fit. For a shirt it is 6-8 cm.
5. We put the resulting value equally in both directions from point O. We call the resulting points P and C
6. Connect P with O1, C with O1.
7. Divide PO1 in half, and the resulting segments in half.
8. Divide CO1 in half, the resulting segments in half again.
9. We draw a curve from point P to point O1 with a deflection of 1.5-2 cm in the first half, and 1.5 cm in the second half.
10. Draw a curve from point C to point O1 with a deflection of 1 cm in the first half, and 1.5 cm in the second half.

Look at the drawing. I marked all these deflections and “bends” in the drawing with the corresponding numbers.

11. Set aside the length of the sleeve from point O1 down. Let's call it point H
12. On both sides of H, distribute the width of the sleeve at the bottom equally in half.
13. Connect the resulting points with P and C, respectively.
14. We measure the size of the edge of the front part of the sleeve. This is the PO1 curve. Compare with the size of the shelf armhole.
15. Measure the size of the back part of the sleeve. This is the CO1 curve. Compare with the size of the back armhole.

If the back part of the sleeve cap corresponds to the back armhole, and the front part of the sleeve cap corresponds to the front armhole, then that’s it, the sleeve is ready.

Most often, the front armhole is smaller than the back armhole. Consequently, the collar of the front sleeve should be smaller. We measure how many centimeters the difference is and cut off half of this difference from the front of the sleeve, and add it to the back of the sleeve. Look at the drawing. The new outline is turquoise.

When I build on paper, I directly cut off a strip from the front of the sleeve and glue it to the back.

Cutting out, sweeping away the details

Trying on a shirt

Where to start sewing a shirt after trying it on

After fitting, we make changes to the cut. First, go to the pattern, you will most likely need it again, and then to the cut.

Let's start sewing:

1. If there are yokes, we sew them to the main parts
2. Sew darts (chest and waist)
3. We process the middle cut of the shelf with a plank
4. Sew the shoulder seams, matching the pattern, and process the cut

I’ll tell you a little more about the bar.

Remember when we added 6 cm to the middle of the shelf?

The simplest thing is to turn the middle section inside out by 1 cm and turn it again by 3.5 cm. Baste and stitch along the face. That's the whole plank. You can also topstitch it along the edge.

Further:
You can already decide on the size of pockets and flaps and cut them out.
The top of the pocket is finished with an overlog or hem stitch with a closed cut. The side and bottom sections of the pockets are folded and basted.
We glue the top flap of the pocket with non-woven material.
We fold the upper and lower flaps face to face, chop or sweep them together, and grind them down as usual. Gradually trim the seam allowances and cut out the corners.
Try on the shirt and decide on the location of the pockets and flaps. Baste and stitch them.

How to sew a stand-up collar

We place the pattern of the collar and stand on the fabric folded in half, observing the direction of the grain thread and according to the pattern of the fabric, we trace it once along the contour, the second time with seam allowances. We cut it out. We check that there are 2 parts of the collar and 2 parts of the stand.

The upper collar and the upper part of the stand are duplicated with non-woven fabric.

First, fold the collar pieces face to face
we chop off

Sew down the collar parts, stitch along the smaller bottom part
we make step trimming to reduce the thickness of the seam allowances
trim the allowances at the corners
turn it inside out
sweep out
fold the collar in half - check the “sameness” of the left and right corners
stitch along the edge or on the foot
ironing

Here is a photo where you can clearly see the roll of the front part to the wrong side.

Next stage:

We pin the stand to the collar and stitch it in place.
Please note: we apply the inner side of the stand to the front side of the collar, and the outer side to the back side. For accuracy, we start chopping from the middle.

Trim the seam allowances of the stand in steps

Turn it inside out
sweep out
we check for the “sameness” of the left and right sides

Here is the collar I ended up with. I made the bottom of the collar and stand from a different fabric.

We apply the collar stand with the outer side to the front part of the shirt, pin it with pins, and stitch it.
We pin the inner side of the stand to wrong side shirts, carefully baste and stitch.

Consider a ready-made men's shirt. Do you see how neatly the stand is sewn to the neck?
Do you think it’s all about the professionalism of the seamstresses? Not only. There's a little secret here. Now I will tell it to you.
Before attaching the stand to the collar, a fold to the width of the allowance is made on the inner part of the stand. The allowance with which the stand is stitched to the neck is folded. It needs to be swept or stitched inside out. We begin to process the stand with the fold already made.
This will allow you to carefully and easily stitch the stand to the neck in the future.

Finishing the shirt sewing

If you have sleeves, then:

Pin and stitch the sleeves, matching the midpoint of the sleeve hem and the shoulder seam.
Sew the side seam and the sleeve seam in the same stitch.

I have a sleeveless shirt and the armholes will be finished with a facing.

If you also sew a sleeveless shirt, then:

Cut out a roll (bias tape) 4 cm wide. Fold it in half, baste it in this way to secure it.

Pin, stitch the rib to the armhole along the face

Turn inside out, baste, stitch carefully along the edge of the roll

Iron

Are your pockets ready yet?

No? Let's get ready.

Overlay the top of the pocket, turn it inside out, and stitch. Fold the remaining sides of the pocket inside out and baste. Pin the finished pockets into place, baste, stitch.

Place the cut out flaps face to face. Pin together, making a slight overlap of the upper part of the valve onto the lower one, so that later you get a nice roll, stitch.

Trim the seam allowances in steps and trim the corners.

A white shirt is refreshing and looks elegant. It never goes out of style. Along with the little black dress, the classic women's shirt has the status of a cult item.

Ideally, it replicates a man's shirt and looks a little larger in size, which makes its owner look frail. A women's shirt is usually sewn without darts, but options are possible: it can be more tight-fitting, with darts or reliefs, from cambric, cotton good quality or silk. If you sew a women's shirt with your own hands from checkered fabric, you will get a cowboy shirt; if you sew a fabric with a large floral pattern, you will get a Hawaiian shirt.

What are the main details of the shirt?

Pattern:

Blouse-shirt. You will need: Blouse A. Cotton 1.80−1.80−1.85−1.85−2.10−2.10−2.10 m with a width…

Pattern:

A crinkled cambric shirt goes great with shorts. Size 34-42 You will need: Baptiste...

Burda catalog autumn-winter/2015/2016

Pattern:

Fitted denim shirt V classic style. You will need: Shirt A, B and C. Cotton rub…

: Master Class

As a basis for sewing a women's shirt with your own hands, we take the pattern of model 120 from:

Pattern:

A loose shirt-blouse with low armholes, as if borrowed from a men’s wardrobe, is…

You will need:

Step 1. Preparing a women's shirt pattern

Since the bottom of the shirt is figured, I placed a cross fold on the pattern above the hem line so as not to change it.

The sleeve is shortened in the middle of the sleeve, again in order not to change the hem line with markings, because the bottom of the sleeve is designed to match the length of the cuff.

Often the magazine gives a stitching bar. Whenever possible, I replace it with a one-piece one, this makes it much easier to process.

To do this, you need to glue the paper part of the strip to the part of the shelf and add another width to get a double strip (a strip with two folds). The second fold of the strip replaces the adhesive spacer, which, again, simplifies the work.

Step 2. Cut

We cut out the details of the shirt with equal allowances of 1.5 cm along all sections.

Important! The planks are cut out without allowances.

In a women's shirt, all paired parts of the stand, collar and cuffs, along with allowances, need to be strengthened with thin adhesive.

, read the website

Step 3. Processing the planks

To do this, you need to peel off or bend the paper strip on the pattern and, using an iron, without breaking off the pattern, iron the strip twice onto the inside of the shelf, first on one part, then turn the shelves over and iron the strip on the other part. Pin the planks onto the shelf.

Then stitch the strips onto the shelf 1 mm from the fold (to the edge) and mark loops and buttons on them with an aqua marker. This is needed for fitting. The loops go along the bar and in the middle of it.

Don't forget that on the patterns in the magazine the stitch markings are for the smallest size! Keep this in mind when cutting the pattern.

Step 4

Place the fold along the back and stitch along the seam allowance. This will fix it. Baste the shirt for the first fitting. For her, it is enough to baste only one part of the yoke. The second yoke is sewn on after fitting. Try on the shirt and adjust it to fit your figure.

Step 5. Processing the yokes

Lay the shirt face up on the table.

Roll up the back piece onto the yoke with a tube.

Roll up the shelf parts onto the yoke.

Place the second yoke on top face down and pin with the bottom yoke. The twisted parts of the shelves and back remain inside, between the yokes.

Sew the details of the yokes. Trim allowances to 5-7 mm.

Turn out the yokes, pull the details of the shelves and back out through the neck.
Press the seams of the yoke. Topstitch them from the front side of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.

Step 6. Processing the collar

Place the collar pieces face to face, pin them together and stitch along the markings. Cut allowances in the corners up to 1 mm from the stitching and trim to 5 mm.

Iron the collar allowances onto the block.

Turn the collar inside out, iron without a transition edge and stitch along the edge.

Trim the bottom allowance on one part of the stand.

Edging the trimmed bottom edge. To do this, apply bias tape made of finishing fabric (I use tie silk) and stitch it onto the bottom edge of the stand 5-6 mm from the edge.

Wrap the cut of the stand with tape and iron it.

Place a stitch exactly in the stitching seam of the binding (immediately under the bias binding), grabbing the second cut of the binding from the inside.

Pin the stand without the trim face down onto the bottom collar. Align the cuts and the middles, check the symmetry of the ends of the stand by folding the collar in half with the stand pinned on.

From the side of the upper collar, place the edged stand face down.

Stitch the stands, grabbing the collar between them. Cut allowances in curves to 1 mm, in other areas to 7 mm.

Turn out the posts and iron them without the transition edge.

Important! Iron either the collar or the stand separately so that the collar does not lose its shape.

Draw a line for sewing the collar along the top stand.

Step 7. Sewing the collar

Mark the middle of the stand and the middle of the collar. Pin the collar into the neckline from the front side of the shirt, aligning the centers, ends of the collar and the placket, as well as the marks along the shoulder seams. Sew the collar into the neckline, stitching exactly along the marked line.

Cut out the seam allowances at the ends of the collar, press the seam allowances onto the stand.

Pin a second stand over the seam so that it overlaps the stitching.

Baste the stand so that the basting goes on one side along the edge of the bias tape, and on the other side into the stitching seam of the collar. It is better to leave pins in the corners of the collar for better fixation of the stand.

Place a stitch exactly on the edge of the binding. Finally iron the stand.

Step 8. Processing the figured bottom of the shirt

Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the bottom, trim it if uneven.
Fold the shelves with the back. Where the bottom roundings end, make notches of 5-7 mm along the allowances. This will be the end of the side seam.

Edge the bottom of the shelves and the back separately with bias tape (the same as the stand, you just need to fold the second cut of the tape). Bend the ends of the trim at the strips inward.

Step 9. Sleeve cuts

Cut the bottom of the sleeve according to the markings.

Use bias tape to edge the side of the cut that is closest to the sleeve seam.

Make a pattern for the cut strip. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (finished 2 cm).
The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the cut. The top of the bar can be made either corner or straight.

Cut out the strips with 1 cm allowances.

Fold the planks in half lengthwise, stitch the top corner along the markings (3 cm above the cut).
Cut and trim allowances in the corners to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch along the allowance.

Turn out the strips and iron them. Place a finishing stitch along the fold of the plank to the height of the cut.

From the front side of the sleeve, apply and stitch the placket to the second side of the cut. Notch the seam allowance above the stitching.

Press the seam allowance inside the placket and pin the second fold of the placket over the stitching seam.

Pin the strip over the cut and stitch along the cut along the edge and top corner.

This is what happened.

Step 10. Stitching in the sleeves

To the front side For the sleeves, sweep the piping allowances to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

Pin the sleeve into the armhole so that the armhole allowance does not protrude beyond the fold of the sleeve allowance.

Sew the sleeve into the armhole 6-7 mm from the fold of the sleeve allowance. Important! The stitching must be at the same distance from the fold of the allowance, otherwise the seam will not be even.

Press the seam allowances onto the armhole, pin and baste.

Stitch the armhole allowance exactly along the edge of the seam allowance fold.

View of the set-in sleeve from the face of the shirt.

Step 11. Side seams

Fold the side seam and sleeve seam allowances so that one allowance protrudes beyond the other by 6-7 mm, pin them together and stitch 6-7 mm from the smaller cut.

You can fold the allowances evenly, but then you will have to trim one allowance. The first method is simpler and faster.

Iron the protruding seam allowance to a smaller one.

Then lay out the front and back pieces, iron the seam allowances, then pin them onto the seam and stitch the sleeves and front pieces onto the pieces.

On the front side there is a seam with stitching. Covered seam with two lines on the inside.

Step 12. Processing the cuff

On the outer cuff, iron the hem allowance to the wrong side and stitch it 1 cm from the fold.

Place the cuff pieces face to face and stitch along the markings. Cut the allowances in the curves to 1 mm, the rest - to 5-6 mm from the stitching.

Iron the allowances on the block, like at the collar. Turn the cuff inside out and iron without the transition edge. Draw a sewing line for the cuff along the fold line of the outer part.

Stitch along the outer edge of the cuff, starting and ending at the bottom cross stitch!

Place folds along the bottom of the sleeve. From the front side, the folds of the folds look at the cut of the sleeve.

Place the cuff inside the sleeve from the wrong side! Sew the cuff according to the markings. Trim the seam allowances to a corner at the ends of the cuff.

Press seam allowance into cuff. Pin the folded edge of the cuff on the front side of the sleeve, overlapping the stitching line.

Stitch the cuff along the edge of the fold. It turns out that on the front side of the cuff there are two parallel finishing lines along the bottom.

Step 13. Loops

Punch the loops according to the markings, sew on the buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the stand - along the stand, on the cuff - along the cuff and 5-7 mm from its short edge. The length of the loop is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm.

Buttons are sewn on a thread stem.

Svetlana Khatskevich

Good afternoon. Here you can download for free a pattern for a women's shirt of a simple cut without darts with long sleeve and with a collar for chest girths 80 - 104 cm.

Using this pattern you can sew a shirt or shirt-style blouse from a softer fabric.

The pattern looks like this:

If my patterns don’t suit you, but the model does, you can.

The shirt has a yoke at the back and a bow pleat at the back under the yoke.

The height of the yoke is small, when sewing it is difficult to pack the shoulder seams inside, I did this:

You can increase the yoke, or just like me, overcast the seam allowances.

The sleeve pattern indicates the length of the arm taken for construction. If your arm length is different, change the pattern length.

Sleeve pattern length = Arm length - 7 (cuff) + 2 (lap).

Shirt collar with a one-piece continuous stand. I like this collar: it looks no worse and is much easier to process.

Pattern in PDF file in life size. When printing, set the scale to 100%. After printing, you need to glue the sheets end to end, without overlapping the sheets and without cutting off the margins.

Patterns are given without seam allowances.

Patterns:

Good day, dear masters! Every day we feel the approach of summer, and with it: the beginning of the summer season, preparation for vacation, sudden forays into nature and many other entertainments that are just a stone's throw away, not available in winter.

Perfect for all of the above cases loose fit shirt, which will be discussed in today’s article. In fact, the shirt was made for a very interesting task related to going out into nature - a training ground role playing game. However, we are sure that this thing will come in handy more than once or twice. Everyday life, because it is sewn from light, natural fabric and is ideal for a long stay under the growing strength sun rays. Protective cream this is good, but it will not replace a long, loose sleeve.

The shirt pattern is presented in the highlighted link:

If this pattern does not suit you in size, you can create a shirt pattern yourself using , and also create a sleeve pattern yourself.

Sew a shirt with your own hands step by step

In total we have six parts: two sleeves, a front and a back, as well as two neck parts - a curved back and a Y-shaped front. For everything, we needed 1.5 m of shirt fabric and about three hours (if you are sewing something like this for the first time).

1. First of all, you need to cut out the front, back, sleeves and neck facings for the front and back front. Even if the fabric you choose does not have a clearly visible structure, try to lay out the pieces in the same direction. This will give neatness to all your products. And the savings must be reasonable.
2. We sew the shoulder seams of the back and front and process them with an overlocker. Shirt fabric is not capricious, therefore, you need to try to make the overlock seam as close as possible to the seam connecting the parts.
   
3. We sew the facing - the front and back parts, we also overlock the joining seams, and we also process the resulting part in a circle.
4. Let's move on to the sleeves. Without securing the thread at the beginning of the operation, we sew the sleeve cap on a wide line and leave a short thread length.
   
5. By pulling one end of the thread, we assemble the sleeve, evenly distributing the assembly over the hem. Don't pull if it doesn't stretch - there's a chance the thread will break and then you'll have to start all over again. I pull the fabric first from one side to the center, then from the other, it’s easier.
6. We sew the sleeve into the open armhole (the so-called “ open method"), connecting the notches in the center.
7. We overlock the sleeves.
8. We sew the side seams and go over them with an overlocker, trying to ensure that the sleeve seams meet each other. If you sew the sleeves in a “closed way”, there are usually no problems with the seam getting into the seam. But such a maneuver is more difficult to perform and does not make sense in this product. Therefore, we advise you to simply work carefully along the notches.
   
9. We hem the bottom of the shirt and the edges of the sleeves - folding them twice.
   
10. Sew the facing to the neck of the shirt. From the front in the center we go down, sew to the basting, make a couple of stitches to the side, for a better opportunity to turn it out and return to the neck.
11. Carefully cut our cutout and make notches in the corners
12. Set aside 0.1 mm along the inside. Along the neckline as far as we can
13. We smooth it out and can make fastenings on the shoulders so that the facing does not turn out at every opportunity.
14. If desired, you can put blocks (an option is to sew loops along the entire depth of the neckline) to stretch the lacing or sew to the ends of the rope that will tie the edges of the neckline

This is how an irreplaceable summer item appears in our wardrobe so easily and simply. After practicing on a simple model, you can move on to complicate its individual elements, ending up with a decent outfit for everyday wear.

Shirt Decoration Ideas

I view this shirt not as a finished product, but as a blank canvas to express my creativity in any of the many ways available to us today.

For example, instead of a plain shirting fabric, you can choose linen or cotton, or delve into the choice of printed fabric.

If you chose plain thick fabric, for example linen in a rich cobalt color, you can play with color scheme individual parts - for example facings.

If you like to draw, take fabric paints and create your own unique drawing using the watercolor technique or any other technique where there are no clear boundaries. On natural fabrics, special paints adhere and apply a little differently than on smooth synthetics like diving or satin.

And of course, such a shirt simply asks to be decorated with embroidery, be it beads, threads for satin stitch embroidery, cross stitch or even satin ribbons. You can punch holes in the neckline, put holitens and connect them together with a satin or leather cord.

You can also experiment with the length of the product. If you lengthen the back part you will get a fashionable asymmetrical shirt, and if you lengthen both parts (front and back) you will get a tunic.

Author of the article: Nitashi Eraklier

Sewing and photographs: Workshop M.Y. CODe. Groups in

Classic blouse

Kuznetsova Nina

Since my daughter needed a blouse for everyday wear and in a short time, I took size 44 as a basis.

Stage 1

cutting and making changes to the pattern

When cutting, do not forget to place notches according to the marks on the pattern.

On pattern shelves made changes.

Women's shirt goes well with jeans, skirts, vests, trench coats and coats

The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the cut. The top of the bar can be made either corner or straight.

Cut and trim allowances in the corners to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch along the allowance.

This is what happened.

STEP 10. STITCHING THE SLEEVE

On the front side of the sleeve, sweep the edging allowances to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

The shirt, being an exclusively male item of clothing, has today become an integral part of women's wardrobe. The women's shirt goes well with jeans, skirts, vests, trench coats and coats.
A white shirt is refreshing and looks elegant. It never goes out of style. Along with the little black dress, the classic women's shirt has the status of a cult item.
Ideally, it replicates a man's shirt and looks a little larger in size, which makes its owner look frail. A woman's shirt is usually made without darts, but options are possible: it can be more tight-fitting, with darts or reliefs, made of cambric, good quality cotton or silk. If you sew a women's shirt with your own hands from checkered fabric, you will get a cowboy shirt; if you sew a fabric with a large floral pattern, you will get a Hawaiian shirt.
In order not to repeat ourselves and teach you something new, in the master class “How to sew a women’s shirt” the processing of some knots has been changed.

As a basis for sewing a women's shirt with your own hands, we take the pattern of model 120 from Burda 10/2016:

With my size 38, I took the pattern one size smaller - 36 size. The shirt model turned out to be quite voluminous, especially in the shoulder girdle. It doesn’t matter which pattern you take, all shirts are sewn basically the same way.

YOU WILL NEED:

Shirt fabric – 1.5 m with a width of 140 cm;
- Non-woven fabric – 30 cm;
- Buttons – 10 pcs.;
- Tailor's scissors;
- Bias tape for finishing;
- Threads and needle for sewing;
- Tailor's pins;
- Tracing paper;
- Pencil or felt-tip pen for marking;
- Ruler.

STEP 1. PREPARING A WOMEN'S SHIRT PATTERN

I had to cut the pattern down to length.

Since the bottom of the shirt is figured, I placed a cross fold on the pattern above the hem line so as not to change it.

The sleeve is shortened in the middle of the sleeve, again in order not to change the hem line with markings, because the bottom of the sleeve is designed to match the length of the cuff.

Often the magazine gives a stitching bar. Whenever possible, I replace it with a one-piece one, this makes it much easier to process.

To do this, you need to glue the paper part of the strip to the part of the shelf and add another width to get a double strip (a strip with two folds). The second fold of the strip replaces the adhesive spacer, which, again, simplifies the work.

STEP 2. OPENING

We cut out the details of the shirt with equal allowances of 1.5 cm along all cuts.

IMPORTANT! THE STRAPS ARE CUT WITHOUT MARRIAGES.

There are many small parts in the shirt that are strengthened by glue, so it is better to first mark on the fabric the location of these parts (stands, collars and cuffs), then cut out this piece of fabric and strengthen it with glue. And only then cut out all the small details from the glued fabric. This speeds up the work and makes the cut more precise.

IN A WOMEN'S SHIRT, YOU NEED TO STRENGTHEN ALL THE PAIRED PARTS OF THE STAND, COLLAR AND CUFF WITH THIN GLUE, TOGETHER WITH THE ALLOWANCES.

G785 adhesive is perfect for these purposes, as well as H180 non-woven fabric and their analogues. The duplicating material should be thin and flexible, unlike a men's shirt.
Then, using the glue, we mark all the allowances on small parts.

STEP 3. PROCESSING THE SLANKS

The strips are processed first after cutting, even before the first fitting, because they do not in any way affect the fit of the product.

To do this, you need to peel off or bend the paper strip on the pattern and, using an iron, without breaking off the pattern, iron the strip twice onto the inside of the shelf, first on one part, then turn the shelves over and iron the strip on the other part. Pin the planks onto the shelf.

Then stitch the strips onto the shelf 1mm from the fold (to the edge) and mark loops and buttons on them with an aqua marker. This is needed for fitting. The loops go along the bar and in the middle of it.

DON'T FORGET THAT ON THE PATTERNS IN THE MAGAZINE THE LOOP MARKING IS FOR THE SMALLEST SIZE! PLEASE CONSIDER THIS WHEN REMOVING THE PATTERN.

Place the fold along the back and stitch along the seam allowance. This will fix it. Baste the shirt for the first fitting. For her, it is enough to baste only one part of the yoke. The second yoke is sewn on after fitting. Try on the shirt and adjust it to fit your figure.

STEP 5. PROCESSING THE YOKETTS

In order to sew on the second yoke, after trying it on, you will have to unravel the basting on the sides

Lay the shirt face up on the table.

Roll up the back piece onto the yoke with a tube.

Roll up the shelf parts onto the yoke.

Place the second yoke on top face down and pin with the bottom yoke. The twisted parts of the shelves and back remain inside, between the yokes.

Sew the details of the yokes. Trim allowances to 5-7 mm.

Turn out the yokes, pull the details of the shelves and back out through the neck.
Press the seams of the yoke. Topstitch them from the front side of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.

STEP 6. PROCESSING THE COLLAR

Place the collar pieces face to face, pin them together and stitch along the markings. Cut allowances in the corners up to 1 mm from the stitching and trim to 5 mm.

Iron the collar allowances onto the block.

Turn the collar inside out, iron without a transition edge and stitch along the edge.

Trim the bottom allowance on one part of the stand.

Edging the trimmed bottom edge. To do this, apply bias tape made of finishing fabric (I use tie silk) and stitch it onto the bottom edge of the stand 5-6 mm from the edge.

Wrap the cut of the stand with tape and iron it.

Place a stitch exactly in the stitching seam of the binding (immediately under the bias binding), grabbing the second cut of the binding from the inside.

Pin the stand without the trim face down onto the bottom collar. Align the cuts and the middles, check the symmetry of the ends of the stand by folding the collar in half with the stand pinned on.

From the side of the upper collar, place the edged stand face down.

Stitch the stands, grabbing the collar between them. Cut allowances in curves to 1 mm, in other areas to 7 mm.

Turn out the posts and iron them without the transition edge.

IMPORTANT! WE IRON EITHER THE COLLAR OR THE STAND SEPARATELY SO THAT THE COLLAR DOES NOT LOSE SHAPE.

Draw a line for sewing the collar along the top stand.

STEP 7. SETTING IN THE COLLAR

Mark the middle of the stand and the middle of the collar. Pin the collar into the neckline from the front side of the shirt, aligning the centers, ends of the collar and the placket, as well as the marks along the shoulder seams. Sew the collar into the neckline, stitching exactly along the marked line.

Cut out the seam allowances at the ends of the collar, press the seam allowances onto the stand.

Pin a second stand over the seam so that it overlaps the stitching.

Baste the stand so that the basting goes on one side along the edge of the bias tape, and on the other side into the stitching seam of the collar. It is better to leave pins in the corners of the collar for better fixation of the stand.

Place a stitch exactly on the edge of the binding. Finally iron the stand.

STEP 8. PROCESSING THE FIGURED BOTTOM OF THE SHIRT

You can process the bottom of the shirt in the classic way by folding the seam allowances twice and stitching them. But my bottom of the shelves is much shorter than the bottom of the back, so it’s better to process it separately at the shelves and back.

Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the bottom, trim it if uneven.
Fold the shelves with the back. Where the bottom roundings end, make notches of 5-7 mm along the allowances. This will be the end of the side seam.

Edge the bottom of the shelves and the back separately with bias tape (the same as the stand, you just need to fold the second cut of the tape). Bend the ends of the trim at the strips inward.

STEP 9. SLEEVE CUTS

Cut the bottom of the sleeve according to the markings.

Use bias tape to edge the side of the cut that is closest to the sleeve seam.

Make a pattern for the cut strip. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (finished 2 cm).
The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the cut. The top of the bar can be made either corner or straight.

Cut out the strips with 1 cm allowances.

Fold the planks in half lengthwise, stitch the top corner along the markings (3 cm above the cut).
Cut and trim allowances in the corners to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch along the allowance.

Turn out the strips and iron them. Place a finishing stitch along the fold of the plank to the height of the cut.

From the front side of the sleeve, apply and stitch the placket to the second side of the cut. Notch the seam allowance above the stitching.

Press the seam allowance inside the placket and pin the second fold of the placket over the stitching seam.

Pin the strip over the cut and stitch along the cut along the edge and top corner.

This is what happened.

STEP 10. STITCHING THE SLEEVE

To the front side For the sleeves, sweep the seam allowances to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

Pin the sleeve into the armhole so that the armhole allowance does not protrude beyond the fold of the sleeve allowance.

Sew the sleeve into the armhole 6-7 mm from the fold of the sleeve allowance. Important! The stitching must be at the same distance from the fold of the allowance, otherwise the seam will not be even.

Press the seam allowances onto the armhole, pin and baste.

Stitch the armhole allowance exactly along the edge of the seam allowance fold.

View of the set-in sleeve from the face of the shirt.

STEP 11. SIDE SEAMS

Fold the side seam and sleeve seam allowances so that one allowance extends 6-7 mm beyond the other, pin them together and stitch 6-7 mm from the smaller cut.

You can fold the allowances evenly, but then you will have to trim one allowance. The first method is simpler and faster.

Iron the protruding seam allowance to a smaller one.

Then lay out the front and back pieces, iron the seam allowances, then pin them onto the seam and stitch the sleeves and front pieces onto the pieces.

On the front side there is a seam with stitching. Covered seam with two lines on the inside.

STEP 12. PROCESSING THE CUFF

On the outer cuff, iron the hem allowance to the wrong side and stitch it 1 cm from the fold.

Place the cuff pieces face to face and stitch along the markings. Cut the allowances in the curves to 1 mm, the rest - to 5-6 mm from the stitching.

Iron the allowances on the block, like at the collar. Turn the cuff inside out and iron without the transition edge. Draw a sewing line for the cuff along the fold line of the outer part.

Stitch along the outer edge of the cuff, starting and ending at the bottom cross stitch!

Place folds along the bottom of the sleeve. From the front side, the folds of the folds look at the cut of the sleeve.

Place the cuff inside the sleeve from the wrong side! Sew the cuff according to the markings. Trim the seam allowances to a corner at the ends of the cuff.

Press seam allowance into cuff. Pin the folded edge of the cuff on the front side of the sleeve, overlapping the stitching line.

Stitch the cuff along the edge of the fold. It turns out that on the front side of the cuff there are two parallel finishing lines along the bottom.

STEP 13. LOOPS

Punch the loops according to the markings, sew on the buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the stand - along the stand, on the cuff - along the cuff and 5-7 mm from its short edge. The length of the loop is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm.

Buttons are sewn on a thread stem.

Many people find sewing a shirt a rather difficult task. Of course, if you have never sewn anything like this before, it will be quite difficult to sew a shirt yourself. However, there is a way out, and it is this solution that we will talk about first.

Sample for pattern

How to sew a shirt? Let's say right away: making a pattern yourself is absolutely not necessary. Instead, you can simply copy the pattern from an already finished item. This method has one significant advantage over ready-made patterns published in various publications. The fact is that ready-made patterns do not take into account the features of the figure at all, so those who do not know how to customize a thing have to put up with some inconveniences. If we remove the pattern from the finished item, then here we can adjust all the parameters right as we remove the pattern. So, the first thing we need is a sample for the pattern. This can be either a women's shirt or blouse or a men's shirt. Now let's talk about how to correctly copy a pattern from a sample.

Women's shirt - pattern

Let's say we want to sew a women's shirt, but we only have a men's shirt as a sample. There's nothing wrong with that either. We take a pencil and a roll of paper (or, if there is no suitable one, we glue together several sheets of smaller format or, at worst, newspapers). Now we straighten the sample and apply to the paper the part of the shirt that we will re-take, and then secure it with pins. Please note that the size of the sheet on which we will draw the pattern must exceed the dimensions of the part itself by at least 10 cm on each side, so do not forget to leave this margin. It is best if you copy the pattern from a cut sample. Professionals also advise starting from the back, tracing the part to be drawn with dashed lines along the contour and pressing the seams. Measure the armhole of the sleeve especially carefully, since this is the main place where the parts of the product are connected. After you have traced the entire part, take out the paper, connect the strokes with a solid line and fold the paper with the pattern lengthwise and in half to check whether the pattern is symmetrical. As for the sleeves, you need to carefully re-shape the sleeve. The length of the sleeve cap should exactly match the length of the armhole. The only exception is if you want to sew pleated sleeves.

How to sew a shirt - adjusting the pattern

If you need to reduce the size, you can do the following: divide the pattern piece that needs to be reduced into three equal parts using horizontal or vertical lines. Along the lines we lay folds with a width of 0.5 to 1.5 cm. If you need to reduce the sleeve, then first of all you need to reduce the sleeve cap, and only then adjust the armhole - in accordance with the new size. Now we make the darts. To do this, put on underwear that fits your body well and hold the pattern to your body in front of the mirror. Now you need to mark the top of the chest. The horizontal dart can be started directly from this point, and the vertical dart can be started a couple of centimeters lower. We select the width of the dart experimentally, but do not forget to leave a few centimeters (at least three and no more than five) on loose fit products. As for the sleeve, it is best to adjust its width after the sleeve is sewn into the armhole.

How to sew a shirt - cut it out

It is better to take the fabric for the shirt the same as on the sample from which we took the pattern, or with similar properties. Do not choose a material that is too dense and heavy or too thin, which stretches easily, since in these cases even a correctly made pattern does not guarantee a good fit of the shirt on your figure. For cutting, we will take a fabric 150 cm wide and one and a half to two meters long (including allowances for seams). We will also need interlining to glue the cuffs, collar and placket. If you don’t have interlining, it doesn’t matter; additionally cut out parts will also work, which you will need to put inside for rigidity during sewing. It is best to cut the collar separately, since it usually has a rigid stand. Although if you use, for example, flannel as a material, then you can cut the collar along with the rest of the details.

Tailoring a shirt

Now, in order to sew a shirt with our own hands, we just have to overcome the last stage - the actual sewing. If you have done everything correctly before, sewing will not seem particularly difficult to you. We start by sewing the darts, and then make straight stitches on the sides and shoulders of the product. Now we make a side seam on each sleeve and sew the cuffs to the sleeves. Next, we sew the sleeves along the edges into the armholes, and then sew on the placket. The collar is sewn on last. Pay attention to the sewing of the collar Special attention: in order not to spoil the look, it must lie well. In order not to spoil the shirt, it is better to first sew the seams using “live” thread and try them on, and only then, if everything is satisfactory, sew them on a machine. It is first recommended to pin the sleeves and collar with pins, and the pins are stuck perpendicular to the seam - to avoid pulling the fabric. And the final touch is punching the loops and sewing buttons on the finished shirt. In case of female model The loops should be on the right side and the buttons on the left. That's all. Now let's try to sew a men's shirt, which will not seem particularly difficult to you if you have coped with the task of sewing a women's shirt.

How to sew a shirt for a man?

Some women want to learn how to sew a shirt themselves for the man they love. In general, the process of sewing a men's shirt is not much different from sewing a women's shirt. First, take a sample for the pattern. It’s best if it’s some old shirt that fits your man. Then you just need to accurately transfer the pattern onto the paper and then cut and sew the fabric accordingly. In the case when you need to make a correction, but your “model” is missing for some reason, or you want to make a surprise, you will have to sew by eye. I must say, it is still much easier than sewing a women's shirt - due to the characteristics of the figure. Otherwise the sewing procedure is the same. After we have finished transferring the pattern, we cut the fabric and start sewing in the same order: darts (if the shirt is fitted, if not, then it is not necessary), stitches on the sides and shoulders, side seams on the sleeves for sewing on the cuffs, the cuffs themselves , sleeves and finally the collar.

Examples of patterns

For those who for some reason do not want to create their own pattern, here are several sites where you can find good samples. Simple patterns for men's shirts (including a fitted version) can be found on this site. More photographs of the “production process” are presented on this site: “Pattern for a men’s shirt.” In order to find good examples of patterns for women's shirts, we recommend visiting this site: "Shirt pattern. Construction of a women's shirt." Here you will find samples of vest patterns: "Vests women's patterns". And for those who want to dive deeper into the topic, we can offer the following theoretical calculations on creating your own pattern for women's and men's shirts: "Pattern for women's and men's shirts. Construction of a pattern. ". With the help of these samples, you can also easily understand how to sew a shirt with your own hands.