Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern, size 32. Modeling a basic dress pattern. Step-by-step construction of a pattern. Increases in looseness of fit

Creation basic pattern dresses with sleeves are the main stage in design. But also the most difficult, especially for a beginner. Today I will show you step by step how I build a pattern, and, as always, I will try to make it clear and visual. I wish you that by the end of this master class, each of you will have your own basic pattern for a dress with a sleeve!

If you don’t yet know how many advantages and opportunities such a pattern opens up for a tailor, I’ll tell you now.

An individual pattern improves the quality of the product’s fit, reduces or completely eliminates the number of changes made during fitting, and also minimizes the number of fittings to one. At first, my clients were surprised that I invited them to try on only once, since they were used to running to the studio three or four times, but my method is about quick and simple. I am a lazy person by nature, and if I can simplify or automate something, I will definitely do it.

Why do you need a basic pattern?

Ready-made patterns are made to fit a standard figure. Do you have a standard size figure? If not, create the patterns yourself. You will be able to take into account all the features of your figure - breast size, posture, hips, bulge of the abdomen.
All patterns on different models products are obtained by modeling a basic pattern. That is, having built the base once, you will then be able to sew more than a hundred clothing models using it!
Sometimes creating something new is easier than redoing it. Correcting and adjusting a finished pattern will take no less time than making a new pattern.
It happens that you want to sew something for which there is no pattern. For example, you saw her in a store, in a photo or to an unfamiliar girl.
Even if you use ready-made patterns from magazines, you can adjust the product if you only know the principles of design, that is, you know what exactly to adjust and how it is done. And in the basic pattern, changes after fitting are minimal and even a beginner in sewing can cope with them, or are completely reduced to zero.

Well, do you also want to make your sewing easier? Then let's learn how to build a pattern ourselves.

What design methodology will I use?

In design I use the EMKO method. It stands for the Unified Method of Clothes Design, it was invented back in the Soviet era, it is time-tested and is still successfully used in their work by leading ateliers and fashion houses.

In fact, there are many technologies in design - this is the English system, Muller and Son, TsOTSHL and others. And in the end, when building according to one of them, a pattern is obtained for the model that is planned. But from the height of my many years of experience I can say that best technique- this is an experience! Only by trying and experimenting, constantly working and learning new things can you find the very system for creating ideal patterns.

The design method is a tool in the hands of the tailor. Therefore, you can not stop at one system, take for yourself the best from each and draw on something new.

Therefore, I advise you not to sin on the methodology; if your product does not fit your figure perfectly, analyze your work, perhaps you made mistakes in the calculations.

To create a basic dress pattern I needed

Dress measurements that I took
Tools - a neck pattern, a ruler, a measuring tape, A1 scale paper - two sheets, a pencil, a calculator.

Increases in looseness of fit for the basic dress pattern

Before you start building the base, you need to know that the measurements in the pattern are not laid out “clean”, but with increases. What are these meanings? The increase is a value that determines the freedom of fit of the product. Here we will take increases designed for maximum fit, that is, for a dress.

Increases in calculations are indicated with the prefix - P. In my construction, the following types of increases will appear:

PG - increase in chest - 3 cm.
Fri - increase in waist - 1 cm.
Pb - increase in hip circumference - 0 cm.
Pspr - increase in armhole freedom - 2.5 cm.
Pore - increase in sleeve girth - 4 cm.
Pshs - increase in back width - 1 cm.
Pshg - increase in neck width - 1 cm.

In the figure you can clearly see how the increase in Pspr determines the level of fit of the sleeve along the armhole. Depending on the value of the increase that you choose when constructing, it will depend on which sleeve you get in the finished product.

Basic dress pattern with sleeves step by step instructions

Creating a dress base design begins with constructing a rectangle or grid and drawing basic lines. In construction I will use the abbreviations adopted for measurements:

girths with the prefix O are integer values. Example - Og is a measurement of chest circumference
half girths with the prefix C - half measurements. For example – Сг – half-grip of the chest, that is, this is the measurement Og/2

Mesh calculation

01. I build a right angle with its vertex at point H.

Waistline:

H T - from point H up, measure Du

Neck base line:

T A0 - from point T up, measure Dts

02. Armhole line (chest):

T G - from point T up, measure Vboch - Pspr (2.5 cm)

03. Hip line:

T B - from point T down 0.4 * Sat

04. The width of the mesh depends on the measurement Bust circumference (Og), therefore:

G G3 = from point G I put aside the measure Cg3 + Pg (3 cm.)

Through G3 I draw a line for the middle of the shelf. I designate on the drawing the resulting points - a1, G3, T3, B3, H3.

05. Back width

G G1 = set aside the measurement Shs + Pshs (1 cm), from point G1 I draw vertical G1a up

06. Armhole width

G1 G4 = Or/3 + Pg*0.5

How to check the correctness of the calculation of the “Armhole width” value? Each size has its own values, so I always check the table:

The remaining value (G4 G3) is the width of the shelf. In this case, the width of the back and the width of the shelf should not differ much.

Backrest calculation

07. Neck width:

A0 A2 = measurement Ssh/3 + Pshg (1 cm.)

Neck depth:

A0 A = A0 A2 / 3

I build a rectangle and use a pattern to create a round neck.

08. Construction of the final shoulder point - P1:

From point A2 I lay off a segment equal to Shn, while from point T I lay off a segment equal to Vpks. At the intersection of these two dimensions: the Shp measures and the Vpks measures, I get point P1.

09. Construction of the armhole:

P1 P2 = lower the perpendicular from P1 to line G1 a

Backrest control point (P3):

G1 P3 = (G1 P2 / 3) + 2

Bisector (G1 1) = 0.2 * G1 G4 + 0.5

G1 G2 = G1 G4 / 2

From point G2 I lower the vertical line down to the horizontal waist line.

Shelf calculation

10. T3 A3 - traffic accident measure up.

I draw a horizontal line through point A3:

Neck width = A0 A2 (from the back drawing) – 0.5 cm.

A3 A5 - Neck depth = A3 A4 + 1 cm. I build a rectangle and use a pattern to create a round neck.

11. G3 G6 - measure Tsg, through point G6 I draw a vertical line to the waist line, at the intersection of the lines I get point T6.

12. From point A4, using a measuring stick Bg, I make a notch with an arc on the line G6 T6. I get point G7 - the center of the chest. It can turn out either above or below the chest line, or it can intersect with it, it depends on the type of figure.

13. Solution bust dart(point A9):

A4 A9 = 2 (Shg2 – Shg1) +2

At the intersection of these two dimensions: the segment (A4 A9) and the segment (G7 A4) - I get point A9.

14. Shoulder cut ( A9 P5):

I get point P5 by crossing the Vppk measure from point G7 at the intersection of the Shp measure from point A9.

I connect point P5 with point A9 and get a shoulder section of the shelf.

15. Shelf opening

G4 P4 = G4 P5 along an arc from point G4

Shelf control point (P6)

G4 P6 = G4 P4 / 3

Bisector (G4 2) = Bisector from the drawing of the back (G1 1) – 0.5 cm.

P6 P5 I connect a straight line and divide the resulting segment by 2 - I get point 3. From point 3 I put up a perpendicular of 0.5 - 1 cm. I connect points P5, P6, 2, G2 with a smooth curve - I draw the armhole of the shelf. I remember that the angle at point P5 is 90

Darts

Calculation of darts = (segment T T3 – (St + Pt))/ 4.

I distribute the resulting difference between the back and front details in the waist and side darts.

Center of waist dart on backrest runs in the middle of the segment G G2, descends from the chest line G G3 4 cm down, descends from the waist line T T1 10 cm down

Dart cent shelf runs along the center of the chest G6 T6, descends from the chest line G G3 4 cm down, descends from the waist line T T1 12 cm down.

In order to construct side darts along the hip line, you need to calculate the difference using the formula: segment BB3 - (Sb + Pb). We divide the resulting value (it can be either positive or negative, it depends on the type of figure) in half.

And with a positive value we retreat along the line of the hips of the back to the right, and along the shelf to the left. For a negative value, the opposite is true. In the figure below, the side slices intersect, which means I got a positive difference.

If the value is zero, the side darts meet at one point.

With a negative value, the side darts are located further away from each other.

Construction of a drawing of a straight set-in sleeve

The construction of the sleeve also begins with drawing the mesh.

01. Sleeve hem (O1 O2):

In the drawing of the shelf and back, I connect the end shoulder points P1 and P5, divide the resulting segment in half, lower the perpendicular down to the chest line G G3. I measure the length of the resulting segment - a perpendicular.

The height of the sleeve cap (O1 O2) = the resulting segment minus Pspr (increase in armhole freedom) minus “Value for the development of the deltoid muscle of the arm”:

for sizes 44 - 46: 2.5 cm.
for sizes 48 - 52: 2 cm.
for sizes 54 - 56: 1.5 cm.

02. Sleeve width(O1 P1) = O1 P2 = Measure Or + Por (increase in sleeve girth)/2

O1 Рп = segment O1 Р1 /2

O1 Рл = segment O1 Р2 /2

03. The length of the sleeve(O2 M1) = Measure Dr. I draw horizontal lines left and right and get points M2 and M3.

03. Rp 1 = G4 P6 (control point from the shelf drawing). From point 1 I move 0.5 cm to the right and place point 1’

04. RL P3 = G1 P3 (control point from the back drawing). From point P3 I move 0.5 cm to the left and place point P3’

05. I connect P3’ and P2 with a straight line and divide them in half. I get point 4. From point 4 there is a perpendicular (1-2 cm)

06. O2 O6 = O2 O4 / 2

I connect O6 and O3 with a straight line, O6 (3) – the bisector of the angle P3’ O6 O2 = 1 – 2 cm.

07. O2 O5 = O2 O3 / 2 + 2 cm, set aside the resulting value from O2 to O5.

I connect O5 and 1’ with a straight line, O5 (2) – the bisector of the angle O2 O5 1’ = 1.5 – 2.5 cm.

08. Рп 8’ = bisector from the drawing of the shelf armhole (G4 2) + 1 cm.

09. I draw the okat line by smoothly connecting the points: P2, P3’, 3, O2, 2, 1’, 8’, P1.

The drawing located to the left of point O2 is the back of the sleeve, to the right is its shelf. The control point, the center of the O2 sleeve, is transferred 1 cm to the shelf.

After constructing the sleeve, it is necessary to check the length of the edge. It should correspond to the length of the armhole from the base drawing + (1 - 1.5 cm) for fitting.

This completes the basic pattern of a dress with a sleeve, step by step instructions. I hope you were able to figure out all the calculations, and you got your own pattern, which you can now use to sew more than a hundred models of things, and they will fit your figure flawlessly!

Video lesson - building the basic pattern of a dress and sleeves. Taking measurements

Two detailed video lessons lasting 40 minutes:

01. Construction of a dress with a fitted silhouette and set-in sleeves step by step (increases for freedom of fit, checking the pattern for correct construction and calculating formulas)

02. Taking measurements female figure for dresses and trousers (tools and terminology for taking measurements, how to properly prepare for taking measurements, basic rules, table for taking measurements)

They will be in full-length video, a format that can be viewed from any device. Access to the lessons will be available immediately after payment on the training platform for 3 months.

When sewing simple clothes, you can do without a pattern; for clothes with complex styles, you will already need a pattern - paper template, according to which fabric parts are cut out. If you choose between a finished pattern and a design drawing, I would recommend the second option.

Modeling a basic dress pattern. Step-by-step construction of a pattern

Even if you are new to sewing, pattern making will help you quickly understand and master the principles of clothing design. In addition, the pattern is made according to your individual measurements, which means that the future product will fit well on your figure; ready-made patterns do not guarantee such a result, since each of us has our own anatomical features of the figure. And lastly, pattern making is an interesting and exciting process!

In this article, we will learn how to model a basic pattern for a dress using Tatyana Roslyakova’s method. In the last article we learned what we will need to sew a dress pattern. Let me remind you that the design drawing is made only for half of the figure, so measurements of volume and width are recorded in half size.

In addition to the measurements, we will need increases for loose fit(SO). These increases are added to almost all measurements when drawing a structure; they are needed for freedom of movement and breathing. Depending on the silhouette of the product, the allowance for a loose fit varies in size. The allowances for clothing styles (trousers, jackets, coats, etc.) also differ, moreover, for different types tissues there are separate increases. IN various techniques When constructing patterns, different increases are indicated for the same silhouettes and styles, so it is very important to pay attention to the increases that are indicated in the methodology. But for now we are learning how to build the basis of a dress, so I offer you several silhouettes:

INCREMENTS FOR A LOOSE FITTING ALONG THE CHEST, WAIST, HIPS

INCREASES FOR LOOSE FITTING ON THE BACK AND SHELF AREAS

INCREASES TO THE LENGTH OF THE BACK TO THE WAIST, TO THE DEPTH OF THE ARMROOM, TO THE WIDTH OF THE NECK

EXTRAS FOR LOOSE FITTING TO SHOULDER CIRCUMSTANCE

Explanations for the tables:

PG – increase along the chest line
Fri – increase along the waistline
Pb – increase along the hips
Pshs – increase in back width
Pshp - increase in floor width
Pspr – increase in armhole freedom
Pop – increase in shoulder circumference
Pshgor - increase in neck width
Pdts – increase in the length of the back to the waist
Pdtp - increase in the length of the front to the waist
Pvpk – oblique increase in shoulder height

Below is a list in which I have written my measurements as an example. Using these standards, I will make calculations, and you must substitute your data.

Half neck circumference (Ssh) - 15 cm
Half chest circumference (Cg) - 40.5 cm
Half waist circumference (St) - 29 cm
Half hip circumference (Sb) - 44.5 cm
Back length to waist (Lts) - 40 cm
Back width (W) – 16.5 cm
Front length to waist (Dtp) - 42 cm
Chest height (Bg) - 25 cm
Center of the chest (CG) - 9 cm
Shoulder length (L) - 13 cm
Product length (Di) - 85 cm

I will indicate all allowances for loose fit to these and other measurements in the formulas when creating the pattern. In this article we will build a dress with a fitted silhouette.

Modeling a basic dress pattern. Step-by-step construction of a pattern

Let's start with the drawing

It is necessary to prepare a sheet of paper, the length of which should be 10-15 cm greater than the length of the future dress. If you have never made patterns before, I would advise you to make all the drawings on graph paper in a roll, which can be purchased at an office supply store. It's a pleasure to draw on this paper! The drawings are accurate and smooth.

Dress length. In the upper left corner of a sheet of paper, draw a right angle with its vertex at point P, departing 5 cm from the top edge. From point P down in a straight line we put aside a value equal to the length of the dress and put a point H (segment PH = Di = 85 cm).

Dress width. From point P to the right, we will set aside the half-circumference of the chest + 3 cm (increase for a loose fit), and put point P1 (segment PP1 = Cr + CO = 40.5 + 3 = 43.5 cm). From point H to the right, we will set aside a segment equal to PP1 and place point H1 (segment HH1 = PP1 = 43.5 cm). Connect points P1 and H1

Waistline. From point P downwards, we put the measurement of the length of the back to the waist + 0.5 cm and set point T (RT = Dts + CO = 40 + 0.5 = 40.5 cm). From point T to the right we draw a straight line until it intersects with straight line P1H1 and denotes the intersection point as T1.

Hip line. From point T downwards, we will set aside 1/2 of the length of the back to the waist and place point B (TB=1/2Dts=40:2=20cm). From point B to the right we draw a straight line until it intersects with straight line Р1Н1, and we denote the intersection point as B1.

Back width. From point P to the right, set aside the width of the back + 0.9 cm and place point P2 (PP2 = Шс+СО=16.5+0.9=17.4 cm). From this point we draw down a straight line of arbitrary length

Armhole width. From point P2 we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 1.5 cm and place point P3 (P2P3 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 1.5 = 11.6 cm). Attention! The segment P2P3 is the width of the armhole, therefore, you need to select the resulting value of this segment for yourself; in the future we will use this value. Draw a straight line of arbitrary length down from point P3.

Back neck cut. From point P to the right we will set aside 1/3 of the neck half-girth measurement + 0.5 cm and place point P4 (PP4=1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5cm). From point P4 up, we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.8 cm and put P5 (P4P5=1/10Сш+СО=15:10+0.8=2.3cm). Divide the angle with the vertex P4 in half and draw a straight line, on this straight line we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the neck - 0.3 cm and place point P6 (P4P6 = 1/10Сш-СО = 15:10-0.3 = 1.2 cm). Let's connect points P, P6 and P5 with a smooth line, and the angle at point P should be straight.

Shoulder section of the back. From P2 we will set aside 2.5 cm for normal shoulders, 3.5 cm for sloping shoulders, 1.5 cm for high ones and put point P. Connect points P5 and P, and on this straight line we will set aside the length of the shoulder + 2 cm for the dart from P5 and put P1 ( Р5П1=Дп+2cm=13+2=15cm). Again, on this line from point P5 we will set aside 4cm and place point O (P5O=4cm). Down from point O we will set aside 8cm and place point O1 (ОО1=8cm). To the right of point O, set aside 2 cm and place point O2 (OO2 = 2 cm). Let's connect points O1 and O2, on the resulting straight line from point O1 we will set aside 8 cm at the top and place point O3 (O1O3 = 8cm). Now let's connect points O3 and P1.

Armhole depth. From P downwards we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest plus 7cm (for stooped figures plus 7.5cm, for kinky figures plus 6.5cm) and put point G (PG=1/4Cr+CO=40.5:4+7.5= 17.6 cm). Through point G we draw a straight line to the intersection with straight line РН, denoting the point of intersection G1, to straight line Р1Н1, denoting the point of intersection G3, and the point of intersection with the straight line from point P3 we denote G2.

Back armhole cut. From G upwards we will set aside 1/3 of the distance PG + 2cm and put P2 (GP2=1/3PG+CO=17.6:3+2=7.8cm). Divide the angle at point G in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 1.5 cm and put point P3 (GP3 = 1/10Shpr + CO = 11.6:10 + 1.5 = 2.6 cm) divide line GG2 in half and put G4. Connect points P1, P2, P3 and G4 with a smooth line.

Front armhole cut. From G2 upward we will set aside 1/4 of the half-circumference of the chest + 5 cm (for stooped figures + 4.5 cm, for kinky figures + 5.5 cm) and put P4 (G2P4 = 1/4Cr + CO = 40.5: 4 + 4.5 = 14, 6cm). From P4 to the left we will set aside 1/10 of the half-circumference of the chest and put P5 (P4P5=1/10Сг=40.5:10=4cm). From G2 up, we will set aside 1/3 of the segment G2P4 and put P6 (G2P6 = 1/3G2P4 = 14.6:3 = 4.8 cm). Let's connect points P5 and P6 with a dotted line and divide them in half; set aside 1 cm from the division point to the right at a right angle. Divide the angle at point G2 in half and set aside 1/10 of the armhole width + 0.8 cm and mark point P7 (G2P7=1/10Shpr+CO=11.6:10+0.8=1.9). Let's connect points P5,1,P6,P7, and G4 with a smooth line.

Shelf neck cut. From G3 up, we will set aside 1/2 of the half-circumference of the chest + 1.5 cm (for stooped figures + 1 cm, for kinky figures + 2 cm) and put P7 (G3P7 = 1/2Cr + CO = 40.5: 2 + 1 = 21.2 cm). From G2 we will set aside the same amount upward and place point P8 (G2P8=G3P7=21.2 cm). Connect points P7 and P8. Now from point P7 to the left we will set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 0.5 cm and put P9 (P7Р9=1/3Сш+СО=15:3+0.5=5.5cm). Down from point P7 we will set aside 1/3 of the half-girth of the neck + 2cm and place point P10 (P7P10-1/3Сш+СО=15:3+2=7cm). Let's connect points P9 and P10, and divide the resulting segment in half. From point P7 we draw a straight line through the division point of the segment P9P10, and on this straight line we set aside 1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck + 1cm and place point P11 (P7P11=1/3Сш+СО=15:3+1=6cm). Let's connect points P9, P11, P10 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point P10.

Shoulder section of the front and breast dart line. From G3 to the left, set aside the measurement of the center of the chest and place G6 (G3G6=Cg=9cm). From G6 we will draw a line upward until it intersects with the line P7P8, and we will denote the intersection point as P12. From P12 downwards, we will set aside the measurement of chest height and put point G7 (P12G7=Bg=25cm). From point P12 we will put 1cm down and put P13 (P12P13=1cm). Connect points P9 and P13. And we connect points P13 and P5 with a dotted line. Along this line from point P5 to the right, we will set aside the length of the shoulder minus the value of the segment P9P13 and minus 0.3 cm, put point P14 (P5P14=Dp-P9P13-0.3=13-3-0.3=9cm). From point G7 through point P14 we draw a segment equal to segment G7P13 and place point P15 (G7P15=G7P13). Connect points P5 and P15.

Side seam line. From G to the right, set aside 1/3 of the width of the armhole and place point G5 (GG5 = 1/3Shpr = 11.6:3 = 3.8 cm). Draw a vertical line through point G5. At the intersection with the armhole line we will put point B, at the intersections with the lines of the waist, hips and bottom we will place points T2, B2, H2.

Determining the solution of darts along the waist line. We add 1cm to the half-waist measurement (St+CO=29+1=30cm), subtract this value from the width of the dress along the TT1 line (43.5-30=13.5cm). Thus, we calculated the total amount of dart solutions along the waist line, i.e. 13.5 cm.
the size of the front dart opening = 0.25 of the total dart opening (13.5 x 0.25 = 3.4 cm),
side tuck opening size = 0.45 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.45 = 6 cm),
back tuck opening size = 0.3 of the total opening (13.5 x 0.3 = 4.1 cm)

Determining the width of the dress along the hip line. Add 1 cm to the half-circumference of the hips (Sb + CO = 44.5 + 1 = 45.5 cm). From the resulting value, subtract the width of the dress along line BB1 (45.5-43.5 = 2 cm). We will distribute the result equally between the shelf and the back (1cm each).

Side dart. From B2 to the left and to the right, we will set aside the resulting difference (in my example, 1 cm) and put points B3 and B4. From T2 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the side dart solution (6:2 = 3cm) and place T3 and T4. Let's connect point B to points T3 and T4. Let's connect points T3, B4 and T4, B3 with a dotted line, divide these segments in half, set aside 0.5 cm from the division points to the sides and now connect them with smooth lines to form a side cut through points T3, 0.5 and B3 and through points T4, 0 ,5, B4.

If the difference between the half-circumference of the hips with an increase for a loose fit and the width of the dress along the hips line is negative, for example, the half-circumference of the hips + CO = 47 cm, and the width of the dress along the hips line is 45 cm, then the difference between these values will be -2 cm. This result is also equally distributed between the back and the shelf (-1cm). And the side seam line will look like this.

If the difference is zero, then points B3 and B4 will coincide, i.e. the side seam line will connect at point B2.

Shelf waist line. From point P7 downwards, we will set aside the measurement of the length of the front to the waist + 0.5 cm and put T5 (P7T5 = Dtp + CO = 42 + 0.5 = 42.5 cm). Connect points T4 and T5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point T5.

Shelf hip line. From B1 downwards we will set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and put B5 (B1B5=T1T5. We connect points B3 and B5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point B5

Dart on the shelf. From G6 we will draw a straight line down to the intersection with line BB1. The intersections with the lines of the waist and hips will be designated by points T9 and B7. From T9 to the left and to the right, we will set aside half of the front dart solution (3.4:2 = 1.7 cm) and put T10 and T11. From G7 down, and from B7 up, set aside 4 cm, put points and connect them with T10 and T11.

Dart on the back. Let's divide the segment GG1 in half, and denote the division point as G8. From G8 we lower the line down until it intersects with the line BB1. At the intersections with the waist line and the hip line we will place points T6 and B6. From T6 to the left and to the right, set aside half of the back dart solution (4.1:2=2cm) and place T7 and T8. From G8 downwards, set aside 1cm, from B6 upwards, set aside 3cm. Let's connect these points to T7 and T8

Shelf bottom line. From B3 and B4 we will draw lines down to the intersection with straight line HH1 and designate points H3 and H4. From H1 down, we will set aside the value of the segment T1T5 and put the point H5 (H1H5 = T1T5). Connect points H3 and H5 with a smooth line, maintaining a right angle at point H5.

And now we can congratulate ourselves, our pattern for the base of the dress is ready!

Once again, I draw your attention to the fact that I made all the calculations according to my own standards, so be sure to include your data in the calculations. Good luck with your sewing and creative inspiration!

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern - building the base

If you decide to sew for yourself, the first thing to start with is to take measurements and create a base pattern from which you can model any style. Today we will give you a step-by-step construction of the pattern for the base of the dress.
But first, let's take measurements.

To construct a drawing of a base pattern women's dress(size 48) you need to take the following measurements:

1. Dress length 100 cm

2. Back length to waist 38 cm

3. Shoulder length 13cm

4. Half neck circumference 18 cm

5. Half circumference above the chest 44 cm

6. Half bust 48 cm

7. Half waist 37 cm

8. Half hip circumference 50 cm

9. Armhole depth 20.5 cm

IMPORTANT! All calculations performed when constructing a dress pattern are valid for a Bust Circumference (BC) of more than 80 cm.

Where to begin?

Before you start creating the base pattern for the dress, decide on the silhouette. It is important to determine for yourself what kind of dress you want to sew: tight-fitting, tight-fitting or loose. Based on this, we will make an increase in the freedom of fit of the product.

We are building a dress with a close-fitting silhouette and adding 1.5 cm to the half-circumference of the chest.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern - calculation of auxiliary values

Let's calculate the auxiliary values that we will need when constructing the pattern:

Back Width (BW). Formula for calculation: 1/8 OG +5.5 cm = 17.5 cm

Armhole Width (ShPr). Formula for calculation: 1/8OG -1.5cm=10.5

Chest Width (CH). Formula for calculation: 1/4OG -4cm=20 cm

Armhole depth (GPr). We measure it or, to check the measurements, calculate it using the formula GPr = 1/10OG + (10.5-12 cm) = 20-21.5. If the calculated value does not match the measured value, take the average between them.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 1-2

Move 10-15 cm down from the top of the paper and place point A in the left corner. Down from point A, draw a vertical line 100 cm long (the length of the dress as measured). To the right of point A, draw a horizontal line with a length equal to 1/2 of the chest circumference according to the measurement of +1.5 cm (increase in freedom of fit) - points D and B are obtained - draw segments DC and BC.

Armhole line. From point A down, set aside the Armhole Depth according to the measurement + 0.5 cm - points G and G1 are obtained. Draw a horizontal line.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 3-4

From point G to the right, set aside the Back Width +0 cm (to fit freely) and the Armhole Width + 0.5 cm (to fit freely), chest width + 1 cm. In total, we added 0+0.5+1=1.5 cm - this is the increase that we included above. Draw vertical lines from the obtained points upward until they intersect with AB.

Waistline. From point A downwards, set the length of the back to the waist according to the measurement - point T. Draw segment TT1.

Hip line. From point T, set aside 20 cm downwards - the height of the hips according to the measurements - point L. Draw segment LL1.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 5-6

Side line. Divide the width of the armhole with the increase in half, draw a vertical line down from the division point until it intersects with DC - you get a side line. Divide the left and right auxiliary vertical lines of the armhole with crosses into 4 equal parts.

Back neckline. From point A, set aside 6.5 cm to the right (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck as measured + 0.5 cm) and upward 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a curved line for the back neckline.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 7-8

Back shoulder. On the left auxiliary line of the armhole, set aside 1.5 cm from the top down. Connect points 2 (back neckline) and 1.5 (shoulder slope) with a straight line. Shoulder length when measured is 13 cm.

Back armhole line. From the lower left corner (the width of the armhole), draw a bisector of the angle 2 cm long (for all sizes) and, using a template or by hand, draw a cutout for the back armhole, based on the control points: point 13, the middle auxiliary dividing point, point 2, to the side line.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 9-10

Lifting the shelf. From point G1, set aside 24.5 cm upward (1/2 of the half-chest girth according to the measurement +0.5 cm) - point W. Draw a horizontal line from point W. Raise the auxiliary vertical line of the armhole (see Fig. 9).

Front neckline. From point W, set aside 6.5 cm to the left (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 0.5 cm) and down 7.5 cm (1/3 of the half-circumference of the neck according to the measurement + 1.5 cm). Draw a front neckline according to the pattern (or by hand).

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 11-12

Front shoulder to dart. From point 6.5 (neck) set aside 4 cm to the left and 1 cm down (for all sizes). Draw a short sloping line.

From point 1 down, draw an auxiliary perpendicular with a dotted line to the armhole line GG1. Set aside 1 cm to the right and connect points 1-1 with a straight line (the right side of the chest dart is built).

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 13-14

Bust dart. Divide the right side of the chest dart in half and draw a horizontal line 4 cm long from the division point (Half chest circumference minus half circumference above the chest: 48-44 = 4 cm). Draw through point 4 left side bust dart length = length of the right side of the bust dart (Fig. 13).

Front shoulder line. Draw an auxiliary dotted line from the top of the left side of the bust dart to the top dividing point of the auxiliary line of the back armhole.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 15-16

Along the auxiliary dotted line, set aside 8 cm (13 cm (shoulder length as measured) minus 4 cm (shoulder length to the right side of the chest dart) minus 1 cm) and down at a right angle 2 cm (for all sizes). Draw a front shoulder line.

From the extreme point of the front shoulder, draw an auxiliary dotted line to the lower point of dividing the auxiliary line of the armhole, cut it in half (Fig. 16). From the lower right corner (armhole) draw a bisector 2 cm long.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 17-18

From the point of division of the auxiliary dotted line, place it at a right angle 1 cm to the right (Fig. 17). Using the pattern or by hand, draw the cutout of the front armhole along the control points: shoulder point, point 1, point 2, to the side.

Calculation of darts:

We calculate the darts in this way: 1/2 Bust circumference minus 1/2 Waist circumference = 48-37 = 11 cm. This is excess fabric around the waist, which we need to remove into darts. We put 1/3 of the resulting value in the side darts and 2/3 in the back and front - a little more in the back and a little less in the front.

Side darts: 11 cm /3 = 3.6 cm (rounded to 4 cm) (Fig. 18). IMPORTANT! The side lines shift to the left and right from the starting line (hip circumference control: 1/2 of the hip circumference according to the measurement + 1 cm). The lack of volume at the hips + 1 cm is divided in half and added to the back and shelf on the sides (from the hip line to the bottom of the product).

The tuck on the back is 4 cm, on the front - 3 cm. Total 11 cm.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 19-20

Back tuck: Divide the width of the back waist to the side in half and from the division point draw a vertical line to the armhole and hips. Draw a dart as shown in Fig. 19.

Front waist tuck. From the top of the bust dart, draw an auxiliary perpendicular to the waistline. Draw a dart as shown in Fig. 20.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern fig. 21-22

ADVICE! If you have a narrow waist and a “kinked” back, excess fabric can be tucked into the middle seam along the back and an additional dart (see Fig. 21 blue lines).

Rice. 22. Finished pattern. Re-make the front pattern and the back pattern of the dress separately and proceed to modeling.

Note:

If you have just decided to start sewing clothes, the first thing you will have to become familiar with is the rules for drawing up patterns. But it is precisely this that is needed to create beautiful and stylish outfit according to the figure. Therefore, in this article we will talk about how to make a dress pattern.

Where does tailoring begin?

Before sewing any clothes, be it a children's summer sundress or a women's sheath dress, you need to decide on the model. In addition, we advise you to pay attention to the style of clothing: will it be a tight-fitting or loose dress. In particular, determining the style will help in the future to make an increase in calculations.

Suppose you decide to sew a tight-fitting dress of size 48, choose a model, and then you should take a centimeter and take measurements of yourself or the person for whom you are going to sew the suit. How to do it? What to measure? And how to make a dress pattern using scrap materials?

To begin, in addition to a centimeter, take a sheet of paper and a pen. Then apply a tape measure to the shoulder line and move it until you decide where exactly your clothing will end (i.e., how long the product will be).

Therefore, before making a dress pattern yourself, measure and write down its estimated length. For example, the length of your dress, taking into account your height, is 90 cm (this is approximately knee length). Next, you will need to make calculations, measurements and record the following data:

back length (up to the waist);
shoulder length;
half-circumference of your neck;
half chest circumference;
half-circumference above the chest;
semi-hip circumference;
half waist circumference;
armhole depth.

How to take key measurements correctly?

In order to correctly perform all key measurements, you need to know from which and to which place you need to take a centimeter. For example, the length of the back is measured starting from the seventh vertebra and continues to the line of your waist. Shoulder height is measured by taking a tape measure from the top of your shoulder point to the point connecting your spine and your waist line. That is, it turns out to be an oblique line.

Before making a dress pattern to fit your figure, measure your shoulder width. To do this, take a tape measure, attach one part of it to the highest point of the intended shoulder seam (located at the very base of your neck) and lead the other part to its end point (where the shoulder ends and the arm begins). To measure your sleeve circumference, you need to take the fullest part of your shoulder and circle it with a centimeter. In this case, the measuring tape should close on the outer surface of your hand. Sleeve length is measured from the highest point of the shoulder. Then the centimeter is passed along the outside of the arm, goes along the forearm and ends at the length limit that you need.

The half-girth of the neck is calculated taking into account its girth. To do this, wrap the centimeter around your neck and divide the resulting figure in half. All other measurements with half-girth are carried out according to a similar principle.

For example, you might get the following measurements:

DS (back length) - 39 cm;

DP (shoulder length) - 14 cm;

PS (half neck circumference) - 19 cm;

PNG (half-circumference above chest level) - 45 cm;

PG (half chest circumference) - 49 cm;

PT (half waist circumference) - 38 cm;

PB (half hip circumference) - 51 cm;

GP (armhole depth) - 21.5 cm.

OG (bust circumference) - 98 cm;

Pr (increase in fit) - 1.5 cm.

How to calculate back width?

Before making a dress pattern with your own hands, make calculations of measurements. To do this, we will perform the appropriate calculations using formulas. So, when measuring the width of the back, you need to pay attention to the protrusions of both shoulder blades, since the measurement is taken from one shoulder blade to the other. Next we divide the resulting measurement by two. For example, the width of the back turned out to be 38 cm, therefore, after dividing this number in half, we get 19 cm.

You can check the correctness of your calculations by using the following formula: SH = OG/8 + 5.5 cm. For example, OG (chest volume) is 110 cm, therefore, 110/8 + 5.5 = 19.25 cm. As can be seen from calculations, exhaust gas measurements showed a value of 19 cm, and calculated ones - 19.25 cm. This means that there is a need to double-check your measurements. If everything is correct, then to compile future pattern We write down the first number, which will be correct.

How to make a dress pattern correctly: measurements of the armhole width

The width of the armhole can be calculated using the formula: ShP or ShPr = D pzr (anterior-posterior diameter of your arm) + P spr (the allowance leading to the widest part of the armhole). For example, if D spr is 10 cm, and P spr is 5 cm, then spr = 10 + 5 = 15 cm. This indicator can also be checked using a standard grid of sizes.

How to measure chest width for a pattern?

The chest width is measured in two steps. At the first stage, this value is obtained by measuring from one front corner of the armpit to the other, bypassing the protruding parts of your bust. This way you measure the width of your chest. At the second stage, it is necessary to measure the width of the front of the body based on the distance between the protruding parts of the mammary glands.

In addition, the width of the chest can be calculated using the following formula: ¼ OG - 4 cm. If our chest volume is 98 cm, then, substituting this value, we get the following: 20.5 cm. Let us remind you that all these measurements and calculations will need to be performed before how to make a dress pattern (for beginners).

What to do after receiving the necessary measurements?

Once you have received the required basic measurements, begin creating the pattern itself. For this you will need tracing paper or any thin paper. Take a photo of the dress you plan to sew and, looking at it, begin transferring your measurements onto paper. But keep in mind that your pattern should consist of two parts - the back and the front (front). Therefore, pay close attention to your sketch. Next, look at the approximate transfer of numbers onto tracing paper.

So, put a large sheet of paper corresponding to the length of your future outfit (remember, for us it is 90 cm), make a small indent at the top (10-15 cm) and put point “A” in the upper left corner. From it you should draw a line down vertically and put a point “D” (its length should be 90 cm). From point “A”, draw a line horizontally (its length should be equal to ½ OG + 1.5 cm) and place point “B”. Draw a line from it vertically and set point “C” (it should be parallel to point “D”). Connect the dots and get the segment “SD”.

You still don’t know how to make a dress pattern to fit your figure, then we continue. From point “A” we lay down point “D” along the segment “AD”, corresponding to the depth of the armhole + 0.5 cm. We repeat the same action on the other side. Set point “G1”. We connect and get the segment “GG1”.

From point “G” we measure the width of the back (back width), put a dot at the end. Then from it we count ShPr (armhole width) + 0.5 cm and ShG (chest width) + 1 cm. Next, according to the measurements taken earlier, we mark the lines of the waist and hips in the drawing, draw the expected neckline, and outline the lines of the darts.

Cut out the pattern and transfer it to the fabric

After the pattern is ready, check the correctness of its composition and carefully cut out the paper along the contour. Then attach the paper to a piece of fabric (it’s better to grab it with bobby pins) and outline it with white chalk. After this, cut out the part of the product using scissors along the resulting contours. All that remains is to sew everything on a sewing machine.

How to properly increase the fit of a product?

Before making a dress pattern, pay attention to its style. It will depend on him how many centimeters you will need to leave for an increase in fit. There are four types of dresses in total:

cut too tight;
fitting exclusively to the silhouette;
semi-adjacent type;
straight type.

For a too-tight fit dresses will fit indentation of 1.5 cm. For an adjacent silhouette - 3 cm. For a semi-adjacent silhouette - 4-5 cm. And for a straight silhouette - 6-7 cm.

Attention! When making an increase, do not forget to add additional centimeters to the girth of the chest and hips.

What does the concept of "pattern-base" mean?

Often, lovers of cutting and sewing advise beginners to first make a pattern for the basis of a dress, and then use it to make the product itself. What does it mean? The base pattern is a kind of pattern, according to which, as they say, experienced craftsmen, you can sew any outfit.

For example, any dress can be based on a standard sheath dress. And from this form, as they say, you can dance further. For example, increase the sleeves, make the dress looser, add an overlap, increase or decrease the sleeves, change the neckline.

How to make a dress pattern for the summer?

Have you decided to learn how to make a summer dress pattern? First select a lightweight, suitable material, carry out necessary measurements, and then draw up a base pattern on paper, created exclusively according to your parameters.

After this, transfer the paper pattern to the fabric, cut out the sample and sew. The dress is ready. You should act on a similar principle after you make a decision on sewing clothes for children. Before making a dress pattern for a girl, pay attention to the photo of the model, take measurements and a base pattern.

Fabric and physique are two important indicators

Before creating a pattern, pay attention to your body type and the fabric you choose. For example, ladies with a thin build can sew dresses from almost any fabric.

It is recommended to make a large increase - 10-20 cm. Fat girls It is better to give preference to stiff and poorly draped fabric. In this case, it is better to make a minimal increase, especially in the hips, as there is a possibility of adding more volume. If you are the owner of brightly shaped breasts and buttocks, then the best material for your clothes there will be knitwear. So, before making a dress pattern, consider these points.

What do you need to remember when creating a pattern?

The pattern will fully correspond to the parameters of your figure only if you follow our advice. For example, you need to finish drawing a dart for the back (at waist level) exactly at chest level. The waist dart is drawn with a preliminary indentation of 4 cm from the marked chest line. The shoulder dart ends at your bust line. The lower edge of the armhole also follows the bust line.

Before making a dress pattern, take measurements. When creating your base pattern, remember that the entire pattern fits inside a large rectangle. The height of this geometric figure must necessarily correspond to the length of your product. The width of the pattern itself on paper corresponds to the sum of the half-circumference of the chest and a couple of centimeters. That is, they measured the chest circumference, divided the resulting value in half and added up to 7 cm (this number will directly depend on the cut of the dress and the allowance).

The most important part of the pattern is the top. To make it more convenient to draw armholes, darts and the neckline area, divide the upper part of the drawing into three parts: there will be an armhole in the middle, and on the sides there will be darts, a shoulder line and a neckline.

In a word, do everything right by following our advice.

The pattern is the basis - this is a drawing of the product that will be made according to individual measurements on paper. Based on the drawing, various styles are subsequently modeled. We will look at how to make a pattern for beginners in this article in more detail.

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Pattern - the basis of a dress for beginners: step-by-step instructions

Constructing a pattern as a basis, essential for those new to the sewing process. Regardless of skill level, this process must be taken responsibly. The quality of the future fit of the product on the figure will depend on the correct construction of the pattern. The beauty and practicality of wearing will also depend on this process. An incorrectly executed base pattern can lead to irreversible defects in the product.

Pattern-basis of the dress- this is a certain tool on the basis of which it becomes possible to model any dress. Our article will cover step-by-step instructions on how to build a pattern and how to complete the details of the dress.

Dress base pattern: building the base

In the simulation there are several ways to create patterns. Almost all of them are performed according to the Italian technique according to Muller or Zlachevskaya. Each of them differs in some derivatives.

number of drawings;
types of measurements;
methods of taking measurements;
the amount of increase;
distribution over the drawing area;
techniques and sequence of drawing construction.

Regardless of what method you have chosen, the experts recommend that you take action without mixing all methods into one. The original and correct cut will depend on the accuracy of the pattern and fit ready-made dress.

Advantages and disadvantages of ready-made basic patterns

It is worth noting that the step-by-step construction of the pattern for the base of the dress is this is a necessary activity. But with this technological chain it is necessary to begin a complex and lengthy process. Although there are various magazines from which you can take any drawing.

But despite this temptation, you need once make your own base in order to subsequently realize your fantasies. A DIY pattern will help you build the rest of the drawings on this base. Having drawn a drawing once, you will not need to do it again in the future.

In the event that you still decide to take patterns from magazines, then you should pay attention to the fact that they are designed for typical body shapes and, as practice shows, they do not suit everyone perfectly, because every figure is imperfect. Having worked once, you will have your own silhouette, which will come in handy more than once. Therefore, having realized the importance of this stage, it is worth starting to build a basic pattern for the basis of a woman’s dress.

How to make a pattern: measuring for a dress

In order to initially make the correct product you will need take correct measurements. To do this, it is worth performing all standard measurements.

Length of the entire product (measured depending on the style of the dress).
Total back length to waist.
Shoulder length.
Semi-circumference around the neck.
Half-circumference above the chest (needs to be removed over the chest).
Semi-circumference around the chest, waist and hips.
Armhole height size.

After all measurements have been taken you can start drawing the pattern. This way, with your measurements at hand, you can draw the top of the dress. The dress may also have a sleeve. Like the base, it is enough to complete the sleeve pattern once. After this, you can cut any sleeve options you need.

Step-by-step construction of a dress pattern: formula

Like any other drawing the pattern has its own formula, from which you can perform the calculations necessary to calculate the width of the back, armhole and chest.

The width of the back is calculated using the formula: five and a half centimeters are added to one-eighth of the chest circumference.
To calculate the width of the armhole, you need to add one and a half centimeters to one-eighth of the chest circumference.
To calculate the width of the chest, you will need to add four centimeters to one-fourth of the chest circumference.

Any increase is calculated for all types of sizes.

There are various other options for calculating the width of the armhole, but not everyone is sure that they correspond to reality. Therefore, if you want to get the perfect dress silhouette, it is recommended to do it without using additional calculations.

Constructing a pattern for the base of the dress

Before you start building a dress, you need to decide what basic dress silhouette would you like to get?. There are dresses that are fitted, tight-fitting and loose-fitting. Based on these indicators, it becomes possible to determine the allowance for fit. If you want to get a tight-fitting dress, then you should opt for elastic fabric that will stretch well. After this, you need to follow the step-by-step instructions for making the base pattern.

You need to draw an ordinary rectangle. The length of the product is the height. Half chest circumference and fit will be the width. The rectangle is best designated in the standard way - ABDC.
From the starting point you will need to measure the height of the armhole, which goes downwards. You will need to add an increase to it, which goes towards the freedom of fit. It is best to mark this place with some other letter, for example G. From it you should draw a straight line to the other sides and put G1 there.
From this point you need to take measurements of the width of the backrest. Add an allowance for fit to this measurement. From this indicator you will need to measure the width of the armhole. Thus, the perpendiculars will be equal to points A and B.
The armhole must be divided into two identical sections. From it you need to make a line down to the very base. This will be the side line.
Each of these resulting lines must be divided into four identical segments, measuring crosses on them.
From the starting point A to the right side, you need to measure one third of the half-circumference of the neck and add half a centimeter to this indicator. The resulting point must be raised at a right angle by two centimeters.
In this case, two points will smoothly connect with the resulting line, which will form the back.
The armholes along the back, where the crosses were marked, need to be drawn down one centimeter. If the shoulders of the dress are straight, then you need to add another two centimeters.
The neckline must be made from point two through the first mark and an equal straight line must be drawn, taking into account an increase of half a centimeter.
The lower corner of the armhole should be opposite the right angle with a mark of two centimeters. There you need to put a point under number two.
Through the shoulder point and two auxiliary marks, the second one at the top of the side line, you need to draw an armhole.
Now you need to smoothly move to the front of the dress. To do this, from the initial point G1 you need to draw a straight line up one half of the half-circumference along the chest with an increase of half a centimeter. There, set a new point - W. Make one line to the left and thereby increase the armholes so that all the lines up to point W are connected.
From the resulting new point W, you need to mark one third of the half-circumference of the neck with an increase of half a centimeter. From this point you need to measure four centimeters and add a centimeter, connecting to the edge of the neck.
After this, it is recommended to again measure one-third of the half-circumference of the neck and add one and a half centimeters. In this case, you will need to connect the three marks with a smooth line to create the front neck.
From the first point, which is designated as the shoulder, you need to draw a straight line down to reach chest level. Thus, shift the end point by one centimeter - this will be the side of the chest dart.
This line needs to be divided into two parts from the center and at a right angle. The difference between the half-chest and above-the-bust girths should be drawn on the drawing.
The side that is missing in the chest dart area should be drawn at the base of the right side through the half-bust point.
The upper part of the left dart should be marked as a dotted line and connected to the upper mark of the division into armholes along the back. On the drawn line from the top of the dart, you should measure the length of the shoulder - four centimeters. It is worth lowering the mark below this indicator and connecting it to the top of the left dart.
From the shoulder point you need to lower a dotted line, which connects to the lowest point of dividing the armhole of the front. In this case, you need to divide this segment into two halves and measure one centimeter at the division points.
The lower corner of the armhole should be set aside by two centimeters. You need to outline the armhole through two points (the lower point of the division and the middle of the side).

The second stage of the step-by-step construction of the dress base pattern consists of the final moment - this is a drawing of the back.

You can also make a sleeve. You can also construct a sleeve drawing using ready-made drawing sketches; the only thing that needs to be changed is the dimensions. You will need to take your measurements and add instead of the standard value. This way you will be able to draw the original sleeve pattern. The basic kit will help you complete the drawing yourself once and then use it for more complex designs, for example, a lantern sleeve and many others.