History of fashion and style. What is fashion - where did the history of fashion and style, modern women's fashion begin. Russian fashion models in Europe

The question of what fashion is is on the minds of many women. We all know how quickly trends in shoes, clothing and manicure change, and we try to follow them. However, few of the beautiful ladies understand what this concept includes and where it originates its history.

Fashion history

Answering the question of how the history of fashion began is not at all easy. Wardrobe items that all representatives of one or another civilization wore existed for a very long time, however, at that time people did not think about how to dress beautifully and attractively. For them, wearing clothes was just a way to keep warm and hide from prying eyes intimate parts. Any new items or foreign outfits were perceived with hostility, so there was no desire to change or transform anything.

History of fashion

Experts believe that the history of fashion and style began only in the 14th century. The capital of France, Paris, is called the birthplace of these concepts, although residents of other European countries were also instantly captivated by them. Representatives of the fair sex began to show imagination and tried their best to stand out from the crowd, creating for themselves or original jewelry. The most striking representative of that time was the “hat with horns,” which was a fabric structure to which cones were attached in a special way.

Subsequently, trends in women's clothing began to change with each new season. So, with the onset of cold weather, beautiful ladies dressed in velvet, and summer period– in products made from natural silk. Gradually, the cut of wardrobe items began to change - some models became a little more revealing than the previous ones. Techniques that are still well known today have appeared that make the image of a fashionista charming and seductive.

Trendsetters

Although the history of women's fashion originates in France, its main legislator during the first two centuries of its formation was Italy, or more precisely, Venice. Venetian beauties set the tone for dresses and hairstyles, introduced false hair and hairpieces into the trend, and paid Special attention accessories. Thus, already in the 15th century, almost all young women wore the thinnest neckerchiefs and velvet bedspreads framing their faces.

A little later, from the middle of the 16th century, Spain became the trendsetter of fashion trends. Prim Spanish women promote closed and chaste outfits - dresses with a closed collar, long sleeves and high starched collars. Skirts were mostly fluffy and long; there was no talk of any slits or asymmetrical hemlines revealing bare legs at that time. Meanwhile, the young ladies had new way seducing men - all kinds of fragrances have come into fashion, adding mystery and sexuality to the image of their owner.

Finally, in the 17th century, fashion began to be dictated by the country responsible for its appearance - France. Parisian women were considered universally recognized for a very long time - more than two hundred years. During this time, trends have changed great amount times, but women all over the world completely obeyed the opinion of the Parisians and gladly copied their outfits, adding practically nothing of their own.

Since the 20th century, states have ceased to be the legislators of current trends. Their place was taken by fashion houses that managed to gain wide popularity. Branded brands began to appear all over the world, some of which managed to exist only for a few years, while others, on the contrary, stayed on the fashion Olympus for a long time. Today, famous stylists and fashion trendsetters are scattered across all continents, but most fashionistas still focus on French and Italian couturiers.

What is fashion and style?

When thinking about what fashion is, some women confuse this concept with style. In fact, fashion refers to the temporary dominance of one style or another over others. Almost always, this term refers only to a specific locality, for example, a region, city or state, but not to the whole world as a whole. Modern women's fashion applies not only to clothes and shoes, but also to makeup, manicure, hairstyles, fragrances, accessories and other areas.

What is high fashion?

This term appeared in Paris in the 19th century. It has a special meaning - we are not talking about the production of mass clothing, which is available to most representatives of the fair sex all over the world, but about the production of luxury wardrobe items, each of which is not cheap at all.

Nowadays, when answering the question of what haute couture is in fashion, the products of such gurus as Chanel Haute Couture, Couture Atelier Versace, Gautier Paris and others come to mind. The products of these manufacturers are distinguished by the highest price, complexity of manufacture, unusually high quality of workmanship, use in work precious stones and other expensive materials and so on.

With the advent of such brands, women and girls learned what a fashion show is and began to attend such events with pleasure. Everything began to appear at every show more people interested in current trends, popular trends and new products. After each fashion show, experts compare the demonstrated models and determine which outfits should be preferred in a particular season.

What is a fashion trend?

Discussing what it is modern fashion, one cannot help but highlight the concept of “trend”. It refers to the current trend, which is this moment should be given maximum attention. As a rule, no trend stays at the top of the fashion Olympus for too long - in most cases, with the start of a new season, all such trends recede into the background, and new trends take their place. Not all women know what macro trends in fashion are. The macrotrend subordinates all current trends in the season and correlates with a certain era, for example, the 80s or 2000s.

What is a capsule collection in fashion?

To promote and sell their products, stylists and designers around the world are ready to do a lot. Since competition in this area is extremely high, brand representatives have to resort to various tricks. Often fashion brands create a so-called capsule collection - a line of products that are developed in collaboration with famous designer or a world celebrity. Such models, as a rule, sell very well and attract increased attention from buyers to other models of the brand.

What is a must have in fashion?

In the fashion world, there are many different concepts that cause misunderstandings and questions among women. Although most of the fair sex are aware of what it means to follow fashion and try with all their might to please this capricious lady, not all young ladies understand why they should wear this or that in a particular season.

In fact, many trends appear as a result of fashionistas' craze for a certain item, while one of them - a must-have - is declared by fashion industry experts. This concept has a special meaning - it means the most main trend or “squeak” for a particular season. In some cases, must-have remains for several years - there are no restrictions for this.

What is a bow in fashion?

Another question that you can hear from beautiful ladies is “What are bows in fashion?” This word is very often found on the pages of fashion magazines or heard from the lips of observers of various television programs. In fact, onion is a synonym for the word “image”, however, it is not exactly the same thing. To form a look, absolutely all the details are important - every element of clothing, shoes, accessories, hairstyle, makeup, and so on. The word look denotes how a person looks at a given specific moment, while the concept of “image” can extend over a long period of time.

The most famous fashion houses

There are a huge number of fashion brands in the world, each of which has its fans and detractors. Among all this diversity there are both little-known brands and real gurus, whose names are heard all over the world. Fashion shows of the most famous and influential brands included in the TOP bring together designers, experts, world celebrities, representatives of the richest families in the world and many others. Currently, the rating of brands is headed by the following names:

1. Chanel.
2. Hermes.
3. Gucci.
4. Louis Vuitton.
5. Fendi

What is ugly fashion?

Some women, thinking about what fashion in clothing is, say that they will never follow it and will dress the way they like. Indeed, many current trends look strange, original and wonderful. Thus, on the catwalks you can see shoes that are associated with orthopedic diseases and disabilities, trousers and jeans with an unusually high waist, making the figure ugly and disproportionate, dresses “made of rags” and much more.

Most girls who see this for the first time have a question about what ugly fashion is and why it is needed. After all, not a single fashionista who wants to look bright, beautiful and attractive will wear something that does not decorate her, but, on the contrary, disfigures her. Meanwhile, the task of such things is to make the image unusual and attract the attention of others to its owner. They, without any doubt, cope with this, which is why they are gaining enormous popularity among young ladies who love.

In the history of fashion and style there are many interesting facts, For example:

• periodically repeating patterns. Plagiarism in fashion is a regular and recurring phenomenon. Any thing that has ceased to be popular now can be seen again on fashion catwalks in a few decades;

Fashion at all times promoted the cult of the body; fashion trends were determined by public moods and events occurring in the life of society, changing people's lifestyles. Many girls have no idea that between today's fashion trends and the fashion of the 1900s have a lot in common. Let's dive into history and look at the fashions of the past century.

Fashion 1900

Women's fashion during the 1900s era changed along with progressive changes in society and global events such as World War I and II, the transition from a woman to a housewife to independent woman, which was naturally reflected in fashion.

Today many people think: “the more I undress, the more success I will have”, in fact this is not so. The more I hide everything that I have, the more interest I will arouse in a man. Creating an illusion of the waist, chest and hips, not showing everything at once - that’s what attracts a man. On a subconscious level, a man understands that you are not a slutty woman and that he can build a relationship with you.

Attitudes towards nudity in the 1900s were completely different from today; women at that time wore Long Dresses and were tightly tightened with corsets so that their waists became like an hourglass. If today many actresses are ready to undress for filming in glossy magazines and most people consider this normal, then in the 1900s women did not allow themselves to do such things and it was considered debauchery. The fashion of this time tried to emphasize the feminine nature, to show a man what he loves most, namely the contrast between the chest, waist and hips, but in a veiled way. Even the makeup slightly emphasized the facial features and was almost invisible. The fashion of those years created a unique way of life and the models of this time correspond to the grace and fragility of the Art Nouveau period. A strongly drawn waist, open sleeves, a large hat, dresses made with a beautiful train, trimmed with a long train - all this is now coming back into fashion. Round shapes were in fashion, a woman’s plumpness meant her health, if a girl was thin, then it was believed that she was not healthy.

Russian ballet made a big revolution in fashion in the 20th century. S.P. Diaghilev brought Russian ballet to Paris to the Chatelet Theater in 1909. To attract large audiences, the dancers of his troupe wore bras instead of corsets, which were introduced into fashion in 1903, but became popular only after the days of the Russian ballet in Paris, their stomachs were exposed and their arms were exposed. Diaghilev’s troupe was also not thin; ballet in those days was different from today.

During the First World War in 1914, fashion changed dramatically. The men go to the front. For the first time in human history, women are becoming lonely. All men's responsibilities fall on the shoulders of women, women go to work - as sisters of mercy in the army, in trade, in factories and factories, learning male professions, which served as the beginning of emancipation. In connection with this, the cult is changing female beauty- rounded shapes are going out of fashion. Since there were no such women left by the end of the war in 1918, the war brought stress, hunger and suffering, women had to work hard, wear work clothes that were previously only worn by men. The cult of curvy ladies is disappearing as there are no more of them left due to food shortages.

At the end of the war, the designer Paul Poiret, famous in France at that time, changed his attitude towards women's clothing; he completely excluded the corset from women's clothing. Clothes are held around the neck, making it possible to expose the back. The back becomes the main subject of interest for men. The new silhouette is more reminiscent of a board - it is straight, completely simplified, the haircut was shortened hair, the style was called “la garçonne” - from French to Russian this can be translated as “girl-boy” or “tomboy”. Women allow themselves even more - they dress in transparent muslin dresses, embroidered with beads and glass beads, which were often worn on the naked body. The woman's makeup became bright.

The length of skirts is getting shorter. This led to a rise in sexuality, women felt more liberated and free. A distinctly free lifestyle was fashionable in those days, and women received the right to vote.

1920s fashion

The canon of beauty for a woman of the 20s - she has a short haircut with bangs, black eyelids, small lips, a flat chest, a short knee-length dress without emphasizing the waist, which is held on a strap around the neck and a cigarette; smoking was fashionable in those days.

And those women who discovered the world of male strength and male professions: they did hard work in the rear, worked in factories and provided all possible assistance to frontline soldiers, these women in the 1920s independently entered sports, women's amateur football teams, hockey teams, women's boxing. Women begin to lose their femininity; they begin to want to show their strength.

In the 20s, many women's clubs appeared. Men in post-war years there's not enough for everyone. A woman is forced to bear the burden of responsibilities that were previously borne by men. And this is reflected in the fashion of the 20s. Women are gradually changing into men's clothing, trousers and boots, short haircuts and a men's jacket.

Mixed beaches are allowed; previously there were separate beaches for men and women. The first mixed beach is considered to be the Floria beach of Constantinople. Now women are more likely to spend time on the beach in order to meet men. A tanned body is in fashion.

The fashion of the 30s was a throwback. Curvy shapes and smooth lines emphasizing grace are returning to fashion. female figure, the chaotic emancipated years were replaced by the sensual thirties. Long dresses are back in fashion, hiding everything that emancipated women showed. However, the makeup remained bright. Having received the same rights as a man, a woman realized that she did not have to be like a man and compete with him in brute strength, her role was to be fragile, sensual and vulnerable.

40s fashion

Fashion of the 40s was inspired by World War II. Especially during the war, there was a shortage of fabrics, many dresses were altered from old ones, platform shoes were in fashion, women were deprived of the opportunity to care for their hair, so the main accessory for women was a turban, long hair was combed up and hidden in turbans, thus women wore high hairstyles. Broad shoulders in women's clothing. Military style and dark, practical shades are in fashion: dark brown, burgundy. Bags were often square in the form of a bandoleer; python and crocodile leather came into fashion, because all other types of leather were used for soldiers’ uniforms. The back zipper gained popularity and was found on almost all women's dresses.

After the end of the Second World War, an athletic and fit female body was in fashion, large forms and an emphasized waist, the cult of sports and female activism. This is due to the fact that women took an active part in labor activity in the post-war years.

50s fashion

In the 1950s, corsets came into fashion again, emphasizing a woman’s wasp waist, just like in the 1900s, the only differences were in the openness of modern outfits, since some of them had a wide neckline. The fashion of the 50s copied almost everything from the fashion of the early twentieth century. Fashion includes plaid fitted trousers, plaid jackets and dresses, as well as polka dot dresses. Women's shoulders are becoming narrow again. The main feature is slimness and elegance, round hats and pointed shoes - all this emphasizes the independent image of a woman.

60s fashion

In the 1960s, petite women were in fashion. The sexual revolution contributed to the emergence of special images - doll faces, thinness, flowing straight hair, short flowing haircuts, small dresses or daring miniskirts. Flights into space were reflected in fashion, in the form of unusual outfits for girls, which were not widely used among the masses. The hippie movement in 1968 brought its own changes to fashion, so a unisex style appeared, shirts and trousers of a men's cut; women were distinguished from men only by their slim figure, Wellingtons and long hair, “love” and “peace” patches and stickers.

70s fashion

The 1970s saw several styles: the increasingly popular hippie style, as well as punk, glam rock, unisex and bohemian style. Flared trousers, flowing fabrics, clothes with bright prints and fringe are in fashion. Lungs are the most popular among hippies. summer dresses bright colors combined with denim jacket or a denim vest; hippies preferred sandals or light boots when it came to footwear. Their hands and necks were decorated with beads made from natural materials and baubles. The hippie style is an American style, it was considered folklore and took its inspiration from Indian tribes. Bohemian style was represented by dresses and sundresses using chiffon. Bohemian style emphasized romance and femininity using wide sleeves, pleats and lace embroidery in women's images.

80s fashion

The 1980s were the years of predominance of several styles:

• youth hip-hop - street style,
• sports style - aerobics and fitness (came into fashion and were gaining popularity),
• aggressive sexuality - this style of woman moved from television screens and came to life.

The concept of the beauty of the female body is changing - slender, athletic girls are in fashion. The film industry has largely influenced women. It became fashionable what the main characters of the films wore, and these were mainly fashion brands from Versace, Valentino, Emanuel Ungaro, Cerutti, Chanel, Christian Lacroix. Women tried to be like the main characters of the silver screen and with great desire bought clothes from famous brands.

In the eighties, women proved to society that they were as capable of running a business as men. They engage in commerce, create financial corporations, or occupy key positions in multi-million dollar companies - this is how the concept of a businesswoman appears. The image of a business woman is a strict and elegant style business woman: fitted dresses, pantsuits, jackets and jackets with wide shoulders, evening dresses.

90s fashion

In the 1990s, grunge and hip-hop styles were most popular among teenage girls, as stars demonstrated in the world of youth music Street style hip-hop. Another reason for the popularity of the style is convenience in Everyday life These clothes: jeans, T-shirts, sweatshirts, sweaters, and shoes you could wear comfortable sneakers and boots.

Thanks to the group "Nirvana", the grunge style became popular in the nineties, the group had huge success among young people and teenagers wanted to be like Kurt Cobain. Young girls wore sweaters two sizes too big and baggy jeans, showing their indifference to fashion. A characteristic feature of the style is carelessness in clothing. Adherents of the style wore: shirts with outstretched elbows, ripped jeans, T-shirts, leather jackets, sneakers and heavy boots. Grunge, with its features, was vaguely reminiscent of the hippie era, but lacked the lightness of that style.

In Russia in the nineties after the collapse of the USSR, clothes came from Western Europe, as well as Turkey and China. Many clothing markets offered clothes different quality at reasonable prices. Everything that was fashionable in the West after the fall of the Iron Curtain was happily accepted in Russia, along with Western films and consumer goods.

Fashion 2000

The year two thousand has arrived. Revealing outfits have come into fashion, apparently due to the lack of materials and the depletion of the planet’s resources, all clothes are becoming exactly twice as short. In fashion: short tops, miniskirts, open sleeves and deep necklines, minimalism in clothing, and it doesn’t matter whether the girl has a slender body or is curvy. Of course, girls who devote time to fitness are a priority.

Short cocktail dresses are replacing long ones evening dresses and at the same time the clutch is replacing the handbag.

Among teenagers, the denim style is in fashion, which has changed a lot since the hip-hop days of the nineties. Denim style has changed, it has become brighter and more feminine - skinny jeans, low-waist jeans with holes at the knees, decorated with a rhinestone pattern, fitted denim jackets and jackets. This style of clothing is completely different from what teenage girls wore in the nineties.

In conclusion of the article I would like to note:

Beauty is a unique aesthetic concept. As soon as beauty becomes widespread, it ceases to be beauty and often becomes vulgarity. Therefore, fashion is always an effort on yourself, and as soon as you dress comfortably and comfortably (as hundreds of thousands of other women do), you no longer become fashionable, but replicated. Therefore, always in any era, beauty requires sacrifice and suffering from a woman, suffering in heels, from dieting, from false eyelashes. Beauty is effort.

Usually, fashion changes dramatically once every ten years, minor changes occur every six months. Fashion can only be seen through the prism of the past; no one could ever foresee fashion, we can only guess. Fashion depends on global changes in the world, on events that force people to look at things differently and change their lifestyle, updating accordingly fashionable wardrobe. Fashion helped people find themselves; fashion is a lever with which a woman achieves self-expression.

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At all times, women have strived to look beautiful. Clothes play an important role in creating a beautiful appearance. Modern fashionistas They adhere to different style trends, there are a lot of alternatives in fashion nowadays, the choice of clothes is amazing. But I propose to plunge into the past and see how fashion has changed over different decades.

30s

In 1929, the world was gripped by an economic crisis, which made its own adjustments to the world fashion industry. Clothes were treated with care and care; old items were mended and altered.

To achieve the elongated silhouette that was fashionable in those years, frills, ruffles, and flounces were sewn onto old dresses.

The length of dresses and skirts reached the ankles, and the skirts were cut on the bias. Mandatory elements of women's clothing were puffed sleeves, deep cutouts in the neckline and back, and turn-down collars.

The film industry has had a great influence on fashion. The main style icons were famous film actresses of the 30s, such as Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo, Bette Davis, Joan Crawford, Katharine Hepburn. These women showed what is now called “Hollywood chic”: dresses with trains, decorated with fabric flowers, bows, and a long peplum.

Fur was considered a chic accessory; fur capes and capes were especially popular. Handbags, various hats (with wide brims, small pillbox hats, berets) and gloves are mandatory clothing attributes for fashionistas of the 30s.

Outstanding designers of that time include Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Chanel offered conservative, classic models. Elsa Schiaparelli amazed with her extravagant, avant-garde outfits.

40s

On the fashion of the 40s. The Second World War had a great impact. Silhouettes with broad shoulders and military style have come into fashion. Women's jackets resembled men's military uniforms. The length of skirts and dresses became shorter, just below the knees. The shortage of accessories led to the start of making homemade buttons covered with fabric.

Regarding headdresses, hats were replaced with scarves. In the USA and Europe, a turban was considered especially chic, which was made from scarves and tied in various ways.

The most desired element of every fashionista's wardrobe were thin stockings made of nylon or silk. But it was practically impossible to get them, since nylon and silk were used in sewing parachutes, so the use of these fabrics for other purposes was prohibited. Women were forced to imitate stockings by drawing a seam on the back of their legs.

At the end of the war, in the mid-40s. There have been changes in fashion. In 1945, Cristobal Balenciaga was the first to demonstrate models of dresses with long skirts. At the beginning of 1946, dresses and sheath skirts came into fashion, focusing attention on the hips, and by the end of the year they became popular bouffant skirts and asymmetrical hemlines.

50s

The most iconic style of the 1950s was the new look ( New Look), proposed by Christian Dior. Dresses were supposed to emphasize the dignity of the figure: a full bust, thin waist, rounded hips.

The hourglass silhouette was a complete contrast to the straight, wide-shouldered silhouette that was so fashionable in the 1940s. At first, the public was shocked, because it took about 40-50 meters of fabric to sew one Dior dress. This was considered an exorbitant waste, an unaffordable luxury after the ascetic minimalism of the war years. But Christian Dior insisted that femininity and grace must return to fashion.

In the early 50s, the flared skirt was especially popular. A little later, a sexy and more practical pencil skirt came into fashion.

Required element women's wardrobe there was a corset that tightened the waist up to 50 cm. At the same time, skirts were mostly fluffy and multi-layered.

Among the popular accessories, small pillbox hats, multiple jewelry, sunglasses, various handbags, and scarves were popular.

60s

The fashion of the 60s brought great changes to society. If initially the image of a luxurious mature woman was cultivated, now fashion has deliberately set a course for youth. French designers have faded into the background. British fashion designers who came up with the image of a London dude became popular.

Cut geometry, bright saturated colors, psychedelic patterns, fabrics with lurex, glitter, polyester, nylon - all this characterized the clothes of the 60s.

At the same time, the hippie style became popular with the image of the London dude. The clothes were distinguished by their simplicity of form - flared trousers, mini-dresses, mini-skirts. But much attention was paid to accessories and shoes: high suede boots with fringe, huge plastic glasses, voluminous jewelry, wide belts.

Another innovation was the unisex style. Many girls broke up with no regrets long hair, having made a boy's haircut. The unisex style icon was famous model Twiggy. Prominent representatives men's fashion in the 60s you can call the legendary group “The Beatles”.

70s

In the 1970s, fashion became even more democratic. And, despite the fact that many call the 70s the era of bad taste, it can be said that it was in those years that people had more means to express themselves through fashion. There was no single style direction; everything was fashionable: ethnic, disco, hippie, minimalism, retro, sports style.

The most fashion element The wardrobe became jeans, which were initially worn only by cowboys, and then by hippies and students.

Also in the wardrobe of fashionistas of that time were A-line skirts, flared trousers, tunics, overalls, blouses with large bright prints, turtleneck sweaters, A-line dresses, and shirt dresses.

In addition, it should be noted that clothes have become more comfortable and practical. The concept appeared basic wardrobe, consisting of the required number of things that are combined with each other.

As for shoes, platform shoes have gained popularity.

Among the designers in the 70s, Sonia Rykiel was singled out, who was called the new Chanel. Sonia Rykiel created a comfortable, comfortable clothes: sweaters, cardigans, dresses made of woolen knitwear and mohair.

Also popular was Giorgio Armani, who proposed combining fashionable jeans with tweed jackets.

In the late 70s, designer Claude Montana gained recognition, creating military-style clothes with a fitted silhouette and, at the same time, a wide shoulder line.

80s

The style of the 1980s was associated with the expression “too much”, too much: too provocative, too bright, too provocative. Overt sexuality in outfits has come into fashion. It was demonstrated through tight-fitting clothes, miniskirts, leggings (now called leggings), open necklines, and shiny fabrics. Large “gold” jewelry was also held in high esteem.

High fashion was distinguished by rich embroidery and decoration, while disco and punk reigned in democratic fashion.

The main silhouette of clothes in the 80s was an inverted triangle. The emphasis was on broad shoulders, raglan sleeves or “ bat", tapered trousers with a high belt (the so-called "bananas").

Stretch jeans and bootcut jeans have come into fashion. Miniskirts, windbreaker jackets made of raincoat fabric, T-shirts with slogans, leather jackets, elements of sportswear.

Businesswomen wore suits in the style of Chanel and Margaret Thatcher. Basically, these were wide double-breasted jackets combined with a miniskirt or trousers, and straight-cut jackets decorated with piping.

In the 80s, designers who thought outside the box and created unusual clothes with original decorative elements enjoyed success: Vivienne Westwood, John Galliano, Jean-Paul Gaultier.

The positions of Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Kenzo, who in their collections focused on deconstructivism, playing with geometric shapes and colors, also gained a foothold.

90s

In the 1990s, the whole world was under the influence of an economic crisis. Many youth subcultures emerged whose slogan was a departure from standards and rejection of imposed morality. It was then that such a style direction as grunge arose. Things that have a worn look, specially aged, become relevant. Multi-layered, negligence, hippie and ethnic elements are encouraged.

A little later, clothes made of synthetic materials and bright neon colors came into fashion. It was usually worn by representatives of the neo-punk subculture.

In the mid-90s, glamor returned, with the pages of glossy magazines promoting luxury, shiny materials (brocade, satin, silk), furs, and jewelry.

In the late 90s, many designers gave a second wind to the retro style, using elements of historical costumes in their collections.

In the 90s, the world recognized the now iconic supermodel Kate Moss, who was the founder of a new style trend - heroin chic.

What is better - a skin or a corset, a shoe with a knee-high toe or a 20 cm platform? Who invented fashion and why, when will it end, and why do fashion designers copy the past all the time? Let's understand the history of fashion.

Fashion history before the 20th century

The word “fashion” has Latin roots - it comes from the word “modus” (measure, moderation, size). It appeared in the Russian language during the time of Peter I. Which is symbolic - from the French “mode” (fashion), because Paris is considered the birthplace of fashion. Fashion - as the dominance of a certain style of clothing, not supported by natural or social necessity. Skins were popular in the Bronze Age, but not fashionable, they helped to survive in harsh climates. But huge toes on shoes, high platforms, multi-meter trains of dresses, corsets and other elements that are not needed for survival or emphasizing status are the beginning of fashion history. It appeared in the XII-XIII centuries and for a long time remained a part of the life of the elite, nobles, kings and rich people. Fashion became widespread only in the 20th century, which was facilitated by the creation of the ready-to-wear style - ready-to-wear boutiques.

The history of fashion before the 20th century is of interest only to professional historians, but we emphasize that many extravagant ideas of modern fashion designers originate in the amazing fashion of the Middle Ages and Modern times. In the 19th century, along with emancipation, revolutions, the Napoleonic Wars and the struggle for human rights, the struggle for comfortable clothes and shoes began. First of all, this concerns, of course, women who are forced to wear corsets of the Victorian era, famous for the fact that it was customary to put crinolines on the legs of pianos with round tips so that they did not look too vulgar.

Fashionable XX century

In the 20th century, fashion changes rapidly and irrevocably, although it moves rather in a spiral, constantly evolving and returning to the trends of past decades.

Early 20th century

"Belle Epoque" of Art Nouveau style. Refusal of massive outfits that restrict movement, emphasis on harmony, balance between aesthetics and expediency. Shoes are comfortable with low heels.

20s

Women wear short hair, dancing Charleston and tango. Men exchange a jacket with striped trousers for a jacket. Coco Chanel creates a little black dress. Women's skirts become shorter, shoes turn into an accessory that emphasizes the length of the legs. The twenties were the time of famous shoemakers Salvatore Ferragamo, Andre Perugia and Charles Jordan. Fashion includes platform shoes, open-toed shoes and sandals.

30s

Simplicity replaces open sexuality. Fashion for soft, flowing, feminine clothes with a “reasonable” length. Flounces, bows and ruffles are again popular. The hair is long and carefully styled. Classic high heels.

40s

A time of difficult trials and lack of materials for the production of simple things. Clothes from the battlefields are in fashion, women try on men's clothes. Coco Chanel creates a tweed suit for women. Shoes with low heels are preferred; the practicality of the shoes is important.

50s

The post-war world, almost like the posters of the Soviet Union, is full of hopes for a bright future. Women gain the right to wear trousers without causing public disapproval. A variety of hairstyles, rhinestones and patterns are in fashion. Roger Vivier strengthens his heels with a steel rod and introduces stiletto heels to the world.

60s

A cultural, sexual and fashion revolution. Youth fashion appears, mini-dresses, unisex and hippie style. The most famous model sixties - big-eyed Twiggy with short hair. Shoes with square heels are in fashion; stocking boots are worn with mini ones.

70s

Italy is one of the centers of world fashion. The return of femininity, classic and discreet female images. The “Disco” style appears with bright makeup and massive jewelry. Wedge shoes and platforms up to 20 cm are in fashion. Hippies prefer high boots and clogs.

80s

The return of aggressive female sexuality in clothing. Passion for aerobics, everyone wears bright bodysuits and leggings. Loose-fitting clothes, bright makeup and perm for women. Shoes - platforms, pointed toes and over the knee boots. Stiletto heels go well with a women's business suit.

90s

Unisex in clothes and shoes, minimalism and passion for “ecological style”. Heel heights are decreasing, and the fashion for platforms from the 70s is returning.

Time passes, fashion changes, develops, returns to the past, draws inspiration there and again forces you to change your wardrobe. In the 21st century, it has already changed several trends, and not even two decades have passed. But it was the 20th century that made it fast, impetuous and changeable. Follow fashion, but do not change your taste.

“Fashion is a factory for the production of desires!”

The term “fashion” comes from the French “facon” - “way”.

It is difficult to say when fashion began as a socio-historical phenomenon. But even if the inhabitants of the Stone Age never thought about this phenomenon, it took place. Even the peculiar way of tying animal skins on the body formed people’s own preferences and tastes. The only accessories were jewelry represented by stones, amber, fangs and animal bones. Actually, note that nothing has changed now: we still give preference to jewelry made of amber and stone, and not necessarily precious.

In 2900 BC, many peoples were already developing their own style of clothing. For example, in Babylon special attention was paid to the color of fabrics - at that time red was considered fashionable. Residents wore long woolen shawls with fringes, draped over light tunics.

Cloaks, capes and various types The world recognized the hats even before the usual countdown of time. Our era began with silk, which spread throughout Europe in the 400s. And trips to the East contributed to the discovery by Europeans of bright outfits, decorated with pearls, and products made from animal fur, which were rarely seen in the West.

In any case, clothing and accessories were a kind of form of non-verbal communication through which people wanted to show what class they belonged to, what they did professionally, and what region they lived in.

The gray tones of the Middle Ages made people boring and monotonous, but even simple clothes had simple patterns or primitive decorations. For example, pilgrims set off on their long journey wearing hats decorated with shells. This period is considered the most brutal in the history of fashion. Everywhere with wigs, under which something was wrong, women used poisonous powder with lead and arsenic, thanks to which they achieved a noble skin color to show their high origin.

A little later than 1500, Europe came to life: lush multi-colored outfits, wide-brimmed hats, ostrich feathers, jewelry made of precious stones, fashion for velvet and muffs, and the spread of perfume. In the 1630s, France became the trendsetter, the first salons and fashion shops opened, and attention focused on what the king and queen wore. By the way, Queen Marie Antoinette was considered the most elegant woman in France in the 18th century - all subjects at court followed her example. She allowed her own milliner to trim everyone’s orders and introduced the shirt dress into fashion.

(Albert Edwin Flury Portrait of Marie Antoinette)

Beauty and fashion for it cannot stand even behind the craziest ideas: various structures begin to be erected on the head - these could be flowers, ships, baskets with fruits and vegetables, dolls, etc. Perhaps Sarah Jessica Parker looked behind the historical curtain when she decided to go out in public wearing an acorn hat.

During the reign of Napoleon Bonaparte, “antique” fashion was recognized as official. In those same years, the safety pin appeared, which over time would become one of the most fashion accessories. In 1853, Levi Strauss created the first jeans, which initially shocked society. In the 1860s, high fashion was born - haute couture, which is talked about so much today. Yes, it was Paris that marked the beginning of the birth of the “great”, and only then New York, Milan, London and Tokyo picked up the baton. The world has completely changed!