A Brief History of Men's Fashion in the 18th - Early 20th Century. A Brief History of Men's Fashion in the 18th and Early 20th Centuries Restrained Classics and "Graceful Men"

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See what "Syurtuk" is in other dictionaries:

frock coat- a, m. surtout m. 1.Men's double-breasted waistline with long brim. Wait. 1986. Velvet nail coat, trotted fur, fine Chinese Chinese coat with gold fox fur. 27. 8. 1717. Letter of agreement by M. A. Novosiltseva. //… … Historical Dictionary of Gallicisms of the Russian Language

SURTUK. In Yu. K. Arnold's "Memoirs" about the frock coat of the early 19th century. says: “Syurtukov, in the current sense of the word, did not exist then at all; what was then called surtout really served to put on “above everything”, therefore ... The history of words

- (fr. surtout). Upper men's clothing, reaching to the knees. Dictionary of foreign words included in the Russian language. Chudinov A.N., 1910. SURTUK French. surtout. The well-known outerwear for men. Explanation of 25,000 foreign words included in ... Dictionary of foreign words of the Russian language

Jacket, frock coat, uniform, jacket, business card, reddingot, bekesha, frock coat, lapserdak, tailcoat, chemara Dictionary of Russian synonyms. frock coat n., number of synonyms: 13 bekesh (6) ... Synonym dictionary

- (From French surtout a wide top dress) men's fitted outerwear to the knees, with a collar, with a through button closure ... Big Encyclopedic Dictionary

And (simple. obsolete) frock coat, frock coat, husband. (French surtout - wide outerwear). Men's double-breasted clothing with long skirts almost to the knees, to the waist, usually with a turn-down collar. "Weared white ties and tobacco-colored long-skirted frock coats." ... ... Dictionary Ushakov

SURTUK, a, husband. A kind of long double-breasted jacket, usually at the waist. Uniform with. | reduce frock coat, chka, husband. | adj. frock coat, oh, oh. Frock-coat couple. Explanatory dictionary of Ozhegov. S.I. Ozhegov, N.Yu. Shvedova. 1949 1992 ... Explanatory dictionary of Ozhegov

frock coat- and an outdated certuk ... Dictionary of pronunciation and stress difficulties in modern Russian

frock coat- Modern Greek - "cape". French - surtout (top dress, cape). The time of the appearance of the word "coat" in Russian is the second half of the 18th century. The word is borrowed from French, where surtout goes back to the modern Greek dialect ... ... Etymological dictionary of the Russian language Semenov

frock coat- surtout (French, literally - on top of everything) - men's fitted outerwear with a single-breasted or double-breasted button closure. Appeared at the end of the XVII century. In the first half of the 18th century, this was the name of a hunting coat made of cloth, which had ... Encyclopedia of fashion and clothing

Books

• Collection of drawings of civilian, student, military, uniform, spiritual, Russian, children's square. , . Reprint from Voronezh edition. 1913 Part 1. A collection of drawings of a civilian men's dress (frock coat, business card, tailcoat, jacket, vest, trousers, single-breasted coat, double-breasted coat, winter coat, ...

Tailcoat pairs, as a rule, are decorated with satin stripes.

History

The most common version of the appearance of a tailcoat as an item of evening men's dress refers to the history of a military suit. In the 18th century, the military still wore long uniforms. For most branches of the military, this type of clothing may have been comfortable, but cavalry officers experienced some discomfort when climbing into the saddle in clothes with long floors.
It is not known for certain who first came up with the idea to tuck the hems of a military uniform. Be that as it may, it was considered successful, and rather quickly the cavalrymen began to tuck the hems of their clothes everywhere. They were followed by foot soldiers, and a little later the fashion reached the civilian population: first officials, and then ordinary city dwellers. Such a quick path from military to civilian clothes is easily explained: in those days, there were always quite a lot of military men in uniforms at the balls, and in a certain sense they set the tone for the fashion of the civilian population.
The tailcoat was worn with a linen back, which was a heavily altered "heir" of the camisole.
There is another, less popular version of the appearance of the "civilian" tailcoat. According to her, this men's suit is a transformed justocor ( special type court caftan). The vest in this version has exactly the same origin as in the first, i.e. originates from the camisole.

The approximate date of the appearance of the tailcoat as clothing for the urban aristocracy is 1760.. The tailcoats were of one color, without pockets, with a small collar and narrow sleeves. They were supposed to wear light culottes to the knees. The most popular colors were blue and dark brown, the most fashionable cut was English. Towards the end of the 18th century, the most relevant color option for a tailcoat was red with black buttons.
When the French Revolution broke out, the tailcoat turned from a rather sophisticated item into something completely incredible. This a new style so it was called, “incroyable” (fr. incroyable - “incredible”). His collar and lapels were enormous, as was the tie that went with him. The collar, reaching to the middle of the cheeks, was heavily starched.
Fearing revolutionary moods in society, the Russian Emperor Paul I forbade men to wear tailcoats, because they were too closely associated with the spirit of French rebellion. The coat was in disgrace until the death of the sovereign; Alexander I, successor to the throne, rehabilitated the outfit.

At the beginning of the 19th century, the tailcoat “raises” the tails much higher than the knee. Fashionable colors continue to be blue, brown and green. Black is associated with mourning, and therefore, as a rule, black tailcoats are not worn at social events. They are sewn from fine cloth or velvet.
A little later, the famous dandy and dandy George Brummel began to set the fashion for tailcoats. Thanks to him, the eccentricity of the material and accessories gave way to an impeccable cut, the importance of which came to the fore. There was a color division of tailcoats according to the time of day: for example, a light gray tailcoat was intended for daytime outings, and a dark one for evening outings. The collar was decorated with velvet, which usually contrasted with the main color of the outfit. special attention buttons deserved: they could be made of real silver or porcelain, precious stones. If the buttons were ordinary, then they were covered with a fabric of the same color as the tailcoat. The pantaloons that a man wore with a tailcoat must necessarily be lighter in color than him.

Here is the description given by the Fashion Magazine for Ladies, issue of 1801:

“All our young people wear short tailcoats made of dark blue, dark green or dark brown cloth with round and convex metal buttons; wide-brimmed round hats, short trousers with white stockings, or wide trousers and boots a la russe, and high tops.

In the 30s of the 19th century, a tailcoat was in fashion, expanding at the hips and having a puffy sleeve at the shoulder, hinting at broad shoulders. Ballroom tailcoats of that time are made of velvet, and vests of brocade different colors. In 1832, a tailcoat for riding appeared, distinctive feature which had wide, slightly sloping tails, so that such clothes looked more like a frock coat with the floors turned inward.
In the 40s of the XIX century, the floors of the tailcoat lengthened and fell below the knees. Low waist and narrow sleeves are also in fashion. A distinctive sign of a high position in society was a black tailcoat in combination with a white waistcoat. Thanks to British Prime Minister Benjamin Disraeli, tailcoats with silk lapels and silk ribbon stripes became popular. There is a legend that his tailcoats were specially trimmed with silk, which made it easy for cigar ash to slip off the suit.

By the last third of the 19th century, the tailcoat turned into an evening dress, giving way to Everyday life jackets and tuxedos.

How to wear a tailcoat

Today, the tailcoat is considered clothing for especially solemn occasions, and therefore there are certain rules on how and with what to wear it.
Under the tailcoat, a white shirt with a stand-up collar with bent corners and a starched shirt-front is put on without fail. A bow tie is tied around the neck white color, silk or pique. On top of the shirt, it is customary to wear a pique vest, buttoned with all three buttons. The sleeves of the shirt are decorated with inconspicuous cufflinks.
In the breast pocket of a tailcoat, there must certainly be a neatly folded white nasal. The only exception to the rule when a handkerchief is not put into a pocket is the wearing of orders.

It is customary to wear white and pocket ones on a chain from a tailcoat. Wrist Watch you should not wear a tailcoat - it is considered bad form.
With a tailcoat they wear exclusively black patent leather shoes and black ones; in the cold season, black, white gloves and a white scarf are worn over it. As the headdress in this case is black.
Often, not only guests, but also staff are dressed in tailcoats at ceremonial events. To avoid embarrassment and the guests could not be confused with the servants, the staff puts on vests and black bow ties.

There are a lot of pictures in this post, the story is pretty funny :) I advise you to read it - you won't regret it!

Early 19th century

During the reign of Emperor Paul I in the Russian Empire, the tailcoat fell into disgrace - as a symbol of the French Revolution, unforgivable free-thinking and criminal encroachment on the inviolability of the monarchical way of life. Alexander I, and this is not his only liberal act, rehabilitated the tailcoat, after which gradually in Russia, as well as in Europe and America, the tailcoat became a part of everyday clothing.
In the first years of the 19th century, the general appearance of the tailcoat changed very little, except that in the 10s of the 19th century, the tails of the tailcoat became noticeably higher than the knees, with a high waist it seemed that the dandy put on the tailcoat of his younger brother.
that the dandy put on his younger brother's tailcoat.
With the advent of dandy George Brummel in secular circles, luxurious materials of bright colors and catchy eccentric jewelry left men's fashion. All attention is transferred to the cut, which must be flawless. For the main item of both everyday and festive wardrobe of that time - a tailcoat, high quality cloth was used. The choice of color was determined by the circumstances: dark (most often blue) was intended for the evening, light (gray) for daytime outings. Widely used for men's suit fabrics black, brown, green flowers. The collar was usually covered with velvet of a different color than the fabric of the tailcoat. The buttons for the tailcoat were silver, porcelain, sometimes even precious, often covered with fabric in the color of the tailcoat. The pantaloons and outerwear could be of different colors, but the pantaloons were always lighter in color.

Of the decorations in men's clothing, there was a tie-pin and a watch. A top hat has become an essential part of everyday wear. Only two details of the men's suit - the waistcoat and tie - were allowed to be bright.
Trousers were sometimes decorated with stripes with buttons along the entire length. Low shoes and a cane were preferred to this costume.
Ties at that time were similar to neckerchiefs. A piece of fabric was folded diagonally, covered the neck in front and, having crossed the ends at the back, tied a knot under the chin in various ways - either in the form of a large bow, or in a knot; its ends were hidden behind a vest. A lot of work has been devoted to the art of tying a tie. It was considered a special chic for a dandy to tie a tie in such a way that it seemed that it was done in a minute. But likeThis “negligence effect” could take away hours of torment.
“All our young people,” says the Fashion Magazine for Ladies of 1801, “wear short tailcoats of dark blue, dark green or dark brown cloth with metal buttons round and convex; wide-brimmed round hats, short trousers with white stockings or wide trousers and boots a la russe, and high tops.

In 1802, according to the Journal des Debats, all fashionistas wear dark brown or black tailcoats. The shape of these tailcoats did not change for many months; collars on men's suits are unusually narrow. “Not only bright red waistcoats trimmed with gold lace are cut from below in the form of a Prussian jacket, but the same style is attached to white waistcoats, which, like the red ones, have only one row of buttons. Young people stop wearing wide boots a la Suvorov and replace them with tight-fitting boots, to which you can, if desired, attach lapels made of yellow patent leather.
In the same year, the Parisian newspaper writes: “Instead of cloth trousers, they wear short, nanke. The fashion for silver buckles on shoes is spreading more and more: they are made oval or quadrangular with rounded corners and twice as many as they were three months ago. The frill becomes an essential part of the men's suit, it is laid in round folds.
Cuffs, judging by the Fashion Magazine for 1801-1802, are worn with full dress, frills on less solemn occasions. "The width of the hat brim is increasing every day." In the same year, 1802, the Publicist published: “The colors of men's suits are dark blue, black, dark brown, the color of a negro's head. The collar is slightly lower than before. The waist is still short and narrow. The most fashionable nine-cell silk buttons. Vests are white, long, cut evenly, therefore, without peplum. Nanque pantaloons are made wide at the top, and close-fitting from the knee to the garter.
In Europe, during the Regency era, a tailcoat is worn in combination with a light waistcoat and trousers, which are finally approved in the men's wardrobe in 1818. According to etiquette, pantaloons, the length of which now reaches the ankles, should be lighter in color than the tailcoat. Suspenders are worn with pantaloons.
Until 1820, vests with one and two rows of buttons were worn, but later they finally settled on the first style. From matter, mostly light, completely smooth, striped or with some small pattern were used: yellowish cashmere or pique with flowers; subsequently, vests were also made of silk and velvet.

With the advent of long pantaloons (trousers), short pants did not disappear immediately. During the first decades, they were still worn along with trousers, especially on formal occasions and at balls. In 1814, short pants in Paris were part of the formal costume. In such cases, with a tailcoat and a single-breasted vest, cloth trousers were worn, tied at the knees with elegant bows and with side pockets along the seam.

20s of the 19th century

In the Biedermeier era (as the period from 1815 to 1848 was later called), a light-colored tailcoat (blue, brown, green) is everyday wear. Tailcoats were sewn from fine cloth, and sometimes from velvet. New trendy colors appeared for the season and were replaced by others, no less fashionable.
Ties of other colors than white began to appear: black, red, colored.
For example, "Additions" to the magazine "Moscow Telegraph" in 1825 were advised to wear for visits to New Year tailcoat purple with a velvet collar, a velvet waistcoat with gold flowers, and a waistcoat of white piqué. Piqué - white cotton fabric(rarely silk) with convex patterns. White pique vests were a symbol of respectability. The dandies instead of one vest wore three at once (an echo of the fashion for vests with triple cuffs). They put on black velvet, red on it, and on top - black cloth. The sleeves of the tailcoat had to be sewn in such a way that the cuffs of the shirt, fastened with cufflinks with diamonds or mother-of-pearl buttons, were certainly visible.

Thanks to Pretty Boy Brummel, personal hygiene has become fashionable. The cleanliness of shirts and gloves had to be perfect. According to one of his contemporaries, an elegant man should change "twenty shirts, twenty-four handkerchiefs, ten types of trousers, thirty neckerchiefs, a dozen waistcoats and socks" during the week. However, at the same time, it was considered bad form for a real dandy to be dressed in a suit, the novelty of which was striking. To give the tailcoat fabric a slightly worn look. Fashionistas spent a week at home breaking in new shoes until they stopped squeaking. To give a proper look to the new suit, the fabric was rubbed, and it became thinner and softer. To do this, it was necessary for a long time and carefully to drive along the fabric with a knife blade or silver coin, but try not to leave any clues. Clothes should be clean, perfectly tailored, of good materials, but not necessarily new - such is the fashion of this period.

The Moscow Telegraph magazine in 1825 didactically recommended: “1. Full pairs of dresses: French, large dress, ballroom, for small evenings, for riding, negligee, without pockets, for hunting. 2. Frock coats: morning with one row of buttons, for riding, with a cape, for simple walks, white English with mother-of-pearl buttons, Prussian with a round collar, with a shawl and fur trim, hussar with brandenburgs and cords. 3. Raincoats: ballroom, with a chinchilla, for a walk ... But what has not yet been decided: how many ties should have? In one dandy, only 72 colored people were counted; another colored 154!”

The width of the tie varied. Either the neckerchief was so wide that half of the face was buried, then narrow ties were in fashion, and in magazines for 1826 it was reported that "high ties are not worn at all."
But if the young gentleman was not a notorious fashionista and could be called an "unpretentious dandy", the magazine recommended that he have a couple - three toilets for every day. In the morning, “a tailcoat is blue or black, two waistcoats, a pin with a diamond or a ruby ​​in a tie, a gold lorgnette on a gold chain, a Breguet or Leroy watch with pendants.” So, for an evening or a concert, one should put on a black tailcoat, and in summer in light green. It is customary to wear open shirts to a tailcoat at a ball leather shoes on low heels.
In the years 1810-1830, predominantly white silk embroidered vests were found in society. And when in 1822 the tailcoat began to be decorated with a collar in the form of a shawl, the same collar appeared on the waistcoat.
In the late 1920s, the ham-shaped sleeve came into fashion, and the waist fell into place.

In the 1930s, men wore a tailcoat that flared at the hips, had a bust lined with cotton wool and, at times, a ham-shaped, puffy sleeve at the shoulder. puff sleeve at the shoulder hinted at well-developed shoulders and a broad chest, while the hands should have been graceful and thin. To achieve the right fashionable proportions, men had to lace up tightly into corsets and suffer along with the ladies.

Male and female silhouettes in a romantic costume are similar: a sloping line of the shoulders, widening of the sleeve at the collar, tight fitting of the chest and waist, widening of the hips.


In the essay "Onager" Ivan Ivanovich Panaev (1812-1862) described the toilet of his young hero. “His coat perfectly outlines his waist: it is true that it is a little narrow for him and presses under the armpits, but, they say, fashionable coats are all like that; a pin with a huge stone pinned the long ends of his patterned necktie; on a velvet waistcoat, spotted with silk flowers, hangs a gold chain with a snake, which has a red eye under a yakhont ... Around him, for ten steps, the air is saturated with fragrance from jasmine perfumes combined with violet lipstick ... Like a true onager, the young man perfectly knew everything customs passing from the big to the small world, and in no case allowed himself to deviate from them. With indescribable reverence, with a timid and trembling feeling, he looked at the lions he met on the streets and in taverns, and intensified to slavishly imitate them in everything.

From England came a new idea of ​​elegance. It manifested itself in the cut of the suit, the quality of the fabric, the whiteness of the linen and the dismissive manner with which the dandies wore expensive things. In general, in the 30s, for the fashion of romanticism, a certain “romantic negligence” was characteristic, manifested in the manner of wearing a suit: a deliberately unbuttoned shirt collar, slightly flowing hair, etc. This negligence, as it were, emphasized the intellectual significance of a person who stands above everyday trifles. . Elegance required that the tailcoat be changed every three weeks, the hat every month, and the shoes weekly. It is quite clear that only the rich, the so-called "socialite lions" who replaced the "dandies" - the dandies of past years, in the living rooms could afford such a luxury.

Velvet is used for tailcoats, multi-colored brocade is used for vests.
In 1832, a tailcoat for riding appeared, which was distinguished by especially wide tails, sometimes completely covering the stomach and only slightly beveled, so that it resembled a frock coat with the floors turned inward. How turn-down collar(at first very high), and the lapels constantly changed their cut. From the thirties, the high collar and lapels, rounded around the neck, began to be sewn more and more closely and, finally, were completely bent down.
The tails also constantly changed their cut: they were either short, then long, then rounded, then angular. Until 1834, narrow sleeves prevailed, only at the shoulder they were slightly whipped up, which was achieved as follows: when cutting, the upper part of the sleeve was somewhat broadened and cut out with scallops, which were then sewn into the assembly into the shoulder opening.

The upper part of the sleeve was often often given a ham-shaped style, but from the elbow to the hand it narrowed so much that a row of buttons had to be made on the inside and unbuttoned while putting on the tailcoat, otherwise the hand would not pass into the sleeve; above the brush itself, the end of the sleeve expanded again so that it lay on it like a cuff.
This cuff-shaped widening was first cut with the main fabric of the sleeve, then it was sewn on separately. From 1836, the sleeves were worn narrow and at the shoulder, and then from 1848 they were gradually widened so that they finally took on a slightly curved, tubular shape. (Frock coat sleeves went through the same evolution as tailcoat sleeves. Coat sleeves were always made wider.)

In the 40s19th century tail coat lengths and falls below the knees, low waist and narrow straight sleeves. The vests were of various cuts, often made of variegated fabric. A very wide neckerchief tied around the neck with a bow and trousers extended to the bottom are in fashion. The shirt was white, with a high starched collar. Ties could be either plain or colorful.

On the Museum of London websitehttp://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/Collections-Research.. the catalog of the collection presents a fashionable urban men's ensemble of the 1840s: a double-breasted tailcoat made of blue cloth, light trousers, a vest made of silk fabric, a shirt, a tie, shoes, a headdress (black top hat) and accessories - a wooden cane with a yellow metal knob and gloves.

Not only a perfectly preserved costume is interesting, but also an unusual mannequin with a "hairstyle".

In the second half of the 19th century, the fashion for thin men's waists passed, and their line moved to a natural place or slightly lower, then the multi-color tailcoats and trousers were also abandoned. Colored tailcoats and colorful waistcoats now revealed the "bad taste" of their owner. Men's suits were made from woolen fabrics of tobacco, gray, blue, green and brown, and pantaloons from lighter woolen fabrics. The trend in color is the desire for dark tones.

A tailcoat and black trousers with a snow-white waistcoat have become a hallmark of respectability, a symbol of prosperity, prosperity and a high position in society. The tailcoat lapels were often covered with silk, and the trousers worn with the tailcoat had a stripe made of silk braid or ribbon. By the way, this tailcoat trim came into fashion thanks to Benjamin Disraeli, the Prime Minister of Great Britain. According to legend, his tailcoats were finished with a sliding silk fabric so that the ash from cigars easily slipped off the suit.
Only vests and court costumes were sewn from velvet and silk. By the 1940s, checkered fabrics were becoming very fashionable, from which trousers and other parts of the costume were sewn.

Long trousers, an invariable top hat and a tie rely on a tailcoat, the tying of which is now given even more attention (even special textbooks dedicated to this art are published). Soon, lush ties were replaced by more modest ones in the form of a narrow ribbon with a flat bow, fastened at the back under the collar with a buckle.
Since 1840, the cut of the waistcoat has changed: its chest is lined with cotton, the neckline is significantly reduced, as fashion requires that the entire shirt be covered with a colorful silk tie. Around 1843, the front of the vest began to lengthen on the stomach in the form of a cape.

After 1850, the tailcoat became an evening, ball gown, the length of the floor and tail changed, but the color remained constant - black. Lapels were made of shiny black silk. With a tailcoat it was supposed to wear black strict trousers, a white pique vest, or a special belt instead of a vest.

The fabric was made in China in the middle of the 19th century. The waistcoat was made in America, in Charleston, in 1853. Belonged to the wealthy planter Louis Manigault (1828-1899).

By the last third of the 19th century, the tailcoat had practically disappeared from the streets, giving way to tuxedos and jackets, and turned into a ceremonial toilet for solemn and official events, held in accordance with strict protocol.
Over time, dancers and musicians also began to wear them.

During the second half of the 19th century, the men's costume did not undergo major changes, but was replenished with a number of new clothes. Costumes have become even stricter, divided according to their purpose: business, ball, home, everyday (which has now actually become a worker). In addition to departmental uniforms, jackets and jackets have now become working clothes, which in the 70-80s were sheathed along the sides with black braid. The frock coat was put on at the usual time, and the tailcoat became formal wear. Sometimes the tailcoat was complemented by a short “tailcoat” black cloak with a white silk lining.

Todaya tailcoat is an evening costume for balls, receptions, wedding celebrations, concerts, etc.
The lapels of the tailcoat and the stripes of the trousers are processed with finishing silk - stripes sewn on the side seams along the entire length. There may be two of them.
According to the etiquette for the representatives of the stronger sex, the full dress uniform for a tailcoat consists of a white shirt with a butterfly collar, a bow tie or a newfangled plastron tie, an elastically starched shirt-front under an open waistcoat. All tailcoat accessories must be white, with the exception of black socks, patent leather boots and a headdress (cylinder). IN winter time you can wear a black coat with a white silk scarf to the tailcoat, white gloves on your hands.
A tailcoat white vest must be fastened with all three buttons. A white handkerchief can be put in the breast pocket of a tailcoat (if orders are not attached to the tailcoat). The tailcoat shelves are not fastened. The tail coat is put on only after 19.00.
The modern tailcoat is largely done by hand, especially for dance tailcoats. Instead of adhesive pads, a horsehair bead is used.

Women's dress code regarding the tailcoat is much more democratic! Women can wear tailcoats virtually with anything - for the gorgeous half, there is no strict etiquette on the pretext of wearing a tailcoat. By the way, in women's wardrobe the tailcoat came into the 1930s: the form of the tailcoat began to be used in evening suits, which consisted of a tailcoat and a long skirt.

About the neckerchief:
- Richard, - this is the best "waterfall" that I have ever seen! exclaimed George, who could not take his admiring glance off the Corinthian's cravat.

You flatter me, George, I'm afraid you flatter me!
...
“I must confess,” agreed Lady Wyndham, resigning her maternal pride, “that no one, except, of course, Mr. Brummel, looks so elegant as you, Richard.

He bowed, but this eulogy did not seem to please him very much. Perhaps he took it for granted. He was a very remarkable Corinthian. From his wind-blown hair (which is known to be the hardest to do) to the toes of his glittering shoes, he was a typical example of a socialite. young man. A well-tailored jacket made of the most fine fabric; his necktie, which George never ceased to admire, was no doubt tied by a master's hand; the vest was chosen with taste; there was not a single wrinkle in the sand trousers, and his shoes, with stylish gold tassels, were not only made by Hoby himself, but also polished, as George suspected, with wax mixed with champagne. A lorgnette hung around his neck on a black ribbon, there was a pocket for a watch on his waistcoat, and in his hand he held a snuffbox made of Sevres porcelain.
Georgette Heyer "Deadly Passion"

Publications in the Traditions section

Short story men's fashion XVIII - early XX century

In a place with the Kultura.RF portal, we recall how the male appearance has changed over the course of several centuries.

Lush outfits and petimeter dandies

Costume of Peter I. Everyday caftan, camisole. Half silk, wool fabric, linen ribbed fabric, fringe. Early 18th century Photo: reenactor.ru

Male caftan. 18th century Photo: mylitta.ru

Costume of Peter I. Festive caftan, camisole, pants. Cloth, satin, cotton baize, silk thread, embroidery. Turn of the XVII - XVIII centuries. Photo: reenactor.ru

For a very long time - until the 18th century - the men's costume was not inferior to the women's in brightness and abundance of decorative details. The clothes of that era differed from modern ones, but the basis of the men's three-piece suit was already formed then. Today it is a jacket, vest and trousers, and in the 18th century - a caftan, camisole and culottes.

The caftan, as a rule, was sewn so that it tightly fitted the torso to the waist, but the floors - knee-length were wide. The cuffs were also spacious. long sleeves. The caftan did without a collar, the outer garment was only partially fastened or not fastened at all: a camisole was visible under it. He almost completely repeated the style of the caftan, but was usually sleeveless.

Culottes - as they were called in France - short pants, the prerogative of noble and wealthy people. During the French Revolution, the rebellious commoners were called "sans-culottes", that is, "without culottes": they wore long trousers that were comfortable to work in.

Everyday men's suits were made of wool and cloth, formal suits were made of velvet, silk, and satin. The tailors tried to emphasize almost all the details of the caftan and camisole with decor - embroidery, gold and silver galloons, and the cuffs and collar of the shirt were trimmed with lace.

Under the camisole, men, like women, wore a shirt. At that time, she played a very important hygienic role, because often the rest of the clothes from expensive fabrics could not be washed. Aristocrats preferred shirts made of thin snow-white linen. Stockings were worn with short pants, white ones were also considered the most elegant.

European aristocrats paid much attention not only to clothes, but also to shoes and accessories. Shoes with high heels by modern standards were decorated with buckles. Boots were also worn, but less often: they were shoes for travel, travel and hunting. A wig was put on the head, richly sprinkled with powder. Its most popular type is a faux hairstyle with tightly curled curls on the sides and a ponytail tucked into a black bow. Keeping the wig clean and well-groomed was difficult, but still easier than if you had to style your own. long hair. The costume was completed by a cocked hat, a long cloak and many decorative details: gloves, a snuffbox, a cane, rings and other jewelry. Fees for the appearance of the then dandy, or, as they were called in France, "petimeter", took a little less time than the lady.

"Great Male Refusal" and Dandy

Men's suit. Tailcoat. 18th century Photo: letopis.info

Men's suit. 18th century Photo: costumehistory.ru

Men's suit. Frock coat. Early 19th century Photo: foto-basa.com

By the end of the 18th century fashion clothes became easier and more convenient. Although France was the trendsetter in that era, in the field of men's suit this role gradually passed to England. Unlike the French aristocrats, who spent most of their time at the royal court, English gentlemen lived most of the year on their country estates, and horse racing and hunting were the most popular pastimes. This required an appropriate suit. Men began to wear frock coats - robes like kaftans, but simple and loose. They were equipped with both a collar and clasps - a convenient protection from the weather.

Later, a tailcoat came into fashion - a kind of frock coat with cut floors. Over time, the floors of the tailcoat became more and more narrow, and gradually turned into tails. And on caftans, and on frock coats, and on tailcoats, they always made a cut in the back, so that it was convenient to ride. Under the tailcoat, they wore not a long camisole, but a short vest, which was already very reminiscent of a modern one. And gradually the suit for an active lifestyle turned into an elegant urban one.

The silhouette of the costume changed in general: it became more and more elongated. And the ideals have changed with it. male beauty. A slender and fit figure was now a matter of pride.

At the end of the 18th century, men abandoned brocade and silk and began to wear only woolen and cloth robes. Luxurious trim, lace on shirts, and powdered wigs, and cocked hats are gone. Soon, short pants were also “cancelled” - they, like white stockings, were worn only on the most solemn occasions, for example, at a ball. In everyday life, they switched to long pants: first, tight-fitting pantaloons, and then the trousers we are used to today. It was a time that is sometimes called the "great male rejection" - the rejection of the colorful suit.

First in England, and then in the rest of Europe, dandyism was born - a cultural canon that included both costume and demeanor. Dandies were distinguished by restraint and exquisite conciseness of the outfit. Former luxury was replaced by minimalism. But every detail of the elegant suit - the color of the waistcoat, the fabric of the shirt, the knot of the tie - was carefully thought out. At the same time, it was supposed to look at ease, as if the selection of a suit did not cost its owner any effort. The famous Pushkin line “you can be a practical person and think about the beauty of your nails” speaks of such an important component of a dandy's life as self-care. Well-groomed, perfectly shaved, in an immaculately snow-white shirt, slender - this is the image that men of the first quarter of the 19th century aspired to.

In the 19th century, the men's suit changed slowly, it was the details that played an important role in it. The tailcoat has become the most important piece of clothing, appropriate in any situation. Over time, the width of the lapels, the line of the shoulder and the length of the tails changed, but in general it remained the same. In addition to frock coats and tailcoats, men began to wear business cards - a cross between these two attire. The top hat became the most fashionable headdress for more than half a century. And the funny word "shapoklyak", familiar to many since childhood, actually means a special cylinder with a hidden spring. The high headdress could be folded down so that it would not interfere when a man entered the premises. Vests remained the only relatively bright item in the wardrobe. Sewn from velvet or silk fabrics, including patterned ones, they contrasted with dark tailcoats and light trousers. There were an incredible number of ways to tie a tie, and one or the other was in fashion.

Restrained classics and "graceful men"

Men's suit. 2nd floor 19th century Photo: mir-kostuma.com

Men's suit. 2nd floor 19th century Photo: mir-kostuma.com

By the 1840s, the tailcoat began to move into the category of a formal, evening suit, and a more comfortable frock coat became everyday wear. Ten years later, the jacket began to supplant him. Gradually, the functionality of clothing took up and a men's suit was formed, similar to the modern one. The "hero of time" became a business man, for whom convenience was the main thing. From the middle of the 19th century, elegant fabrics completely disappeared from the men's suit. Even waistcoats have now become restrained, they were usually sewn to match the color of trousers. A three-piece suit appeared, in which all three items are sewn from the same material. Shirt collars, once tall and uncomfortable, have shrunk, and ties that were once cravats have become narrow strips of cloth. Outerwear has also changed: instead of voluminous capes and raincoats, coats have come into fashion. Cylinders were still worn, but with the advent of the bowler hat - a hat with a rounded, very rigid crown - they became an accessory exclusively for evening dress. In a word, that system of everyday and evening costume has developed, which exists to this day.

Over time, clothing became more and more loose, because, among other things, sports began to influence it. Men began to wear cropped trousers, blazers, jackets, tweed jackets, soft castor hats and straw boaters. Tuxedo appeared as a kind of evening suit.

Having formed, the basic men's wardrobe changed slowly: the classic suit became quite comfortable, its cut masked figure flaws well. In addition, it was almost universal - both modest officials and aristocrats could wear the suit.

Ready-made clothes factories made fashionable modern clothes more accessible and widespread. Therefore, the dandies of the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries had to think over the details of their costume even more carefully than petimeters and dandies. There were many nuances of what and in what situation it is appropriate to wear. There were even special articles and publications with instructions like "Handbook of a graceful man." However, even at the beginning of the twentieth century, it was not enough to read it and order a tailor good wardrobe- it was impossible to do without talent and taste or position in society.

And although it seems that much has changed since then, a modern man, if he only agrees to take a serious look at fashion, can find a lot in common between himself and the fashionistas of the past.

The history of men's costume: from the 18th to the beginning of the 20th century

12 The coat changes the tailcoat

In the XVIII century. men wore coats camisoles, short trousers, long stockings and shoes with buckles. This toilet was completed

powdered white wigs. Since the time of Peter I, the nobles dressed like that. By the end of the century, there tailcoat- clothes, short in front and with long (to the knees) narrow floors - coattails in the back. As soon as they didn’t change the tailcoat, what tailors didn’t do with it throughout the 19th century. The front part of the tailcoat was either lowered to the hips, or it was found convenient to finish it near the chest. The folds of the tailcoat were lengthened, pointed, shortened and rounded. Remember A. S. Griboyedov in the play "Woe from Wit":

The tail is behind, in front there is some kind of wonderful notch,

Reason contrary, contrary to the elements.

Tailcoat. 1800

Tailcoat. 1830

The "grandfather" of the tailcoat was a man's caftan. In the XVIII century. caftan, fastened with three or four medium buttons, outlined the waist. To make the waist seem thinner, the caftan skirt was widened at the sides. For this purpose, plates of whalebone, coarse canvas, hair fabric, and thick paper were sewn into the lining. In the second half of the XVIII century. the pleats on the caftan went out of fashion and they began to wear it straight, with a very narrow back and high waist. Such a caftan was already the "father" of the tailcoat.

Initially, the tailcoat was clothing for riding or for the street. The front floors were rounded for the convenience of the rider, while the rear floors did not interfere with him and were longer. The tailcoat had a stand-up collar, which distinguished it from the caftan. Also, the tailcoat, unlike the caftan, was fastened with a maximum of three buttons. They were 2.5 or 3 centimeters in diameter, white, gray, mother-of-pearl, bronze, gold, cut glass or porcelain.

At the beginning of the XIX century. wore, as a rule, black tailcoats, less often - brown and dark blue. In the 20-30s. men's fashion has become brighter, green-bottle tailcoats have appeared, as well as bronze, coffee, dark purple, blue, pink and even yellow color. The black tailcoat, more familiar to us, came into fashion in the second half of the 19th century. Tailcoats were sewn from cloth, velvet or thick silk.

From the end of the XVIII century. in Russia there lived two "brothers" - tailcoats: an Englishman and a Frenchman. An English tailcoat - for daytime affairs, with short tails - was worn with pantaloons and boots. His "brother" French tailcoat - elegant, for balls, with long coattails below the knees and rounded front floors - was worn with long stockings, short pantaloons and shoes. Under the tailcoat, they certainly picked up a vest, usually striped or speckled. Since tailcoats and pantaloons were not decorated, the vest was the most elegant part of the men's suit.

18th century men were not inferior to women in the luxury of clothes. Not only nobles, but also poor nobles wore ceremonial costumes trimmed with gold, silver, and precious stones. Hats were decorated with diamonds. jabot and the cuffs were made of the finest lace, the hilt of the sword was trimmed with diamonds, the buckles on the shoes - with gold and silver.

Bright waistcoats, lace frills, boots with large lapels, loops and tassels, tailcoats of an unthinkable cut - all this was criticized by society, but was not directly prohibited. Catherine II found a different way to deal with bad taste dandies. She ordered the St. Petersburg guards to be dressed in a fashionable dandy costume, who, with a lorgnette in their hands, saw off the “double” look of fashionistas.

Grandee of the times of Catherine II

With the accession to the throne of Emperor Paul I, tailcoats and vests, not to mention frills, scarves and shoes with ribbons and buckles, came under a formidable ban. Under Paul I, all the military had to appear in public only in the uniforms of their regiments, and civilians in provincial noble uniforms or old caftans. The execution of these instructions of the emperor was strictly monitored by the police. Even for private evenings, it was necessary to invite the quarter (policeman).

The persecution of the tailcoat ceased with the coming to power of Alexander I. As before, during the day the tailcoat was worn with close-fitting pantaloons and boots. Moreover, before dinner it was fashionable to wear boots with lapels, and after dinner - without them. In the evening they put on an elegant velvet tailcoat with short trousers, stockings and shoes.

The tailcoat had a "rival" - frock coat. Tail coat and frock coat are similar, but the frock coat has front tails and is flared down. Initially, a frock coat was worn over a tailcoat, like a coat. By the 20s. 19th century he pushed the tailcoat in the men's wardrobe. The tailcoat becomes formal wear, the frock coat becomes more modest, everyday. They did not go to balls and the theater in it. Frock coats were sewn from blue, green, dark red, brown, dark gray cloth, and the collar was made from velvet of the same color.

In the middle of the XIX century. appeared in the men's wardrobe Blazer. Gradually, three rivals - a tailcoat, a frock coat and a jacket - divided their "spheres of influence". If a nobleman stayed at home, then he was in a jacket, in public, or, as they said then, present, he went to the place in a frock coat, and for a solemn occasion he had a tailcoat.

Men's suit: 1 - tailcoat, trousers, vest and tie, coat and top hat; 2 - frock coat, top hat, colored waistcoat and lorgnette

For an official or secular visit in the morning, men put on a frock coat or tailcoat. He relied on a black or colored satin tie with a diamond pin and light trousers. (In the 18th century, only white ties, satin or cambric, were worn with a tailcoat.) Waistcoats that were worn daily were sewn from simple fabrics, elegant ones - from satin, velvet, light piqué with a dark pattern. In the afternoon, they usually wore a colored frock coat, light checkered or striped trousers, a colored waistcoat and a silk tie. For example, the famous writer I. S. Turgenev, who dressed with great taste, had a blue business coat with gold buttons in the form of lion heads, light trousers, a white waistcoat, and a colored tie.

In order to be able to stay in cool front rooms or on the street for a long time, warm shower warmers were put on under the caftan (coat, jacket), pants were insulated with a cotton lining, boots and even shoes were made bigger size to wear more than one pair of stockings.

Dressing gown. From the painting by P. A. Fedotov "The Fresh Cavalier". 1846

The dressing gown was the men's attire. In the XVIII - the first half of the XIX century. the dressing gown served as a “ceremonial negligee”: it was possible to receive guests in it. At the beginning of the XIX century. Oriental robes have become fashionable - archaluks. They were worn with little hats and shoes. In the morning, the nobles in their manor house wore and dressing gowns(dressing gowns). They were very smart, made of colored silk, velvet, with a shawl collar and cuffs of a different color. They were usually girded with a twisted cord, decorated with tassels at the ends. Warm robes were lined with cotton wool or fur.

The outerwear of the nobles, as well as the noblewomen, were redingots - coats and spencers - short jackets. Men also wore overcoats, raincoats, warm frock coats with capes and fur coats. Residents of rainy St. Petersburg got acquainted with raincoats at the beginning of the 19th century. thanks to the English Duke A. W. Wellington. The winner of Napoleon at the Battle of Waterloo, he was the first to bring raincoats to Russia. The cloaks were black, long, sleeveless, tightly fastened. They made raincoats without seams, from one piece of fabric.

I wonder what raincoats were called then collars, and here wellingtons- by the name of the English duke - they called trousers with stirrups. It turns out that the Englishman was the first man who dared to wear trousers over shoes! So in the 20s. In the 19th century, a revolution took place in the men's toilet: short pants and stockings with shoes were replaced by long trousers - the forerunners of modern men's trousers. Short pantaloons were now worn only at court, at magnificent balls.

1. Reddingot 2. Overcoat

Men's shirts were sewn from thin cambric, trimmed with lace, embroidery, frilled frills and small folds. Shirts were fastened with small buttons made of pearls or precious stones. For tailcoats, the buttons were made of silver and even gold. At the balls, silk light stockings and shoes were certainly worn - boats with elongated socks and low heels. Complementing the costume were white or light-colored gloves. Instead of shoes, one could wear varnished or made of thin skin low boots.

Men attached special importance to fashionable little things. most fashionable thing in the 18th century was cane, or a stick: both the military and civilians had it. The fashion for canes changed over time: a tall cane with a knob made of ivory, silver, gold was replaced by a thin one with a bent handle, then a cane with a lorgnette or a watch appeared, it was replaced by thick bamboo canes, lacquered batons, thin reed canes.

Frant 1790 in a cocked hat

Frant 1792 in a top hat

If a man entered the living room or office, then the cane and hat remained in his hand. Only from the end of the XVIII century. the cane began to be left in the front along with outerwear. The headdress was still taken with them into the room.

Noblemen wore watches on a chain or on a silk (beaded) cord, which were attached to a vest pocket. In the XVIII century. the watch was bulb-shaped, later they became small and flat and fit in a vest pocket. Rich people preferred clocks with music that played a short melody every hour.

In addition to a cane and a watch, men always had a snuffbox with them, and they wore a ring with a stone on their hand. A mandatory accessory of the nobleman's costume was also lorgnette- a kind of glasses on the handle. A double folding lorgnette on a small handle was worn on a chain or cord around the neck. When there was nothing to look at, the lorgnette was hidden in a pocket. In the 1840s began to use monocle - rectangular glass in a bronze or tortoiseshell frame. It was also attached to the button of a tailcoat or frock coat with a drawstring. To keep the monocle in the eye, the head was thrown back. Appeared and pince-nez- a double lorgnette with a spring that kept it on the bridge of the nose. Gradually pince-nez replaced the monocle.

It is curious that real glasses were fashionable at the end of the 18th - beginning of the 19th centuries, but they laughed at the "glass wearers". In 1802, one mocker even rode out for a walk, putting glasses on his horse.

Men's hats also have their own history. For the ball, they always wore a black silk folding hat. In other places it was possible to appear not in folding. All men's hats were lined with white satin. The color of the hats was mostly black, in summer - light brown and gray.

The old woman has not lost her meaning - cocked hat, which once upon a time bent back the fields that interfered with the military. But the complete master of men's fashion in the XIX century. became cylinder.

Questions and tasks

1. Tell us how the nobleman's costume changed in the 18th-19th centuries. Why did the tailcoat become the main outfit?

2. How did Russian tsars and tsarinas fight against mods? What would you suggest for the fight against mods?

3. How did the nobles dress at different times of the day?

4. What fashionable things and accessories should a dandy of the 18th century have; fashionista of the 19th century?

5. Rewrite, insert the missing letters and explain the words:

p–nt–lones

r-d-ngot

v-ll-ngtons

tr-corner

6. Make a list of items of clothing for a nobleman going to a ball.