Sew your own shirt. Master class on tailoring a shirt. Do not forget that on the patterns in the magazine, the marking of the loops is given for the smallest size! Keep this in mind when cutting

The shirt, being an exclusively male garment, today has become an integral part of women's wardrobe. Women's shirt goes well with jeans, skirts, vests, trench coats and coats.
A white shirt is refreshing and looks elegant. She never goes out of fashion. Along with the little black dress, the classic women's shirt has a cult status.
Ideally, it repeats a men's shirt and looks a little larger in size, which makes its owner fragile. They sew a women's shirt, as a rule, without darts, but options are possible: it can be more tight-fitting, with darts or reliefs, from cambric, cotton good quality or silk. If you sew a women's shirt with your own hands from fabric in a cage, you get a cowboy shirt, from a fabric with a large floral pattern - Hawaiian.
In order not to repeat yourself and teach you something new, in the master class "How to sew a women's shirt" the processing of some knots has been changed.

As a basis for sewing a women's shirt with our own hands, we take a pattern of model 120 from Burda 10/2016:

With my size 38, I took the pattern for a size smaller - 36 size. The shirt model turned out to be quite voluminous, especially in the shoulder girdle. It doesn’t matter which pattern to take, all shirts are generally sewn the same way.

YOU WILL NEED:

Shirt fabric - 1.5 m with a width of 140 cm;
- Interlining - 30 cm;
- Buttons - 10 pcs.;
- Tailor's scissors;
- Oblique trim for finishing;
- Threads and a needle for sewing;
- Tailor's pins;
- Tracing paper;
- Pencil or felt-tip pen for marking;
- Ruler.

STEP 1. PREPARATION OF A WOMEN'S SHIRT PATTERN

I had to shorten the pattern in length.

Since the bottom of the shirt is curly, I laid a transverse fold on the pattern above the bottom line so as not to change it.

The sleeve is shortened in the middle of the sleeve, again in order not to change the bottom line with markings, because the bottom of the sleeve is designed for the length of the cuff.

Often a stitched bar is given in the magazine. When possible, I replace it with a one-piece, this greatly simplifies its processing.

To do this, the paper part of the plank must be glued to the part of the shelf and add one more of its width to get a double plank (a plank with two gates). The second turn of the bar replaces the adhesive pad, which, again, simplifies the work.

STEP 2. CUT

We cut out the details of the shirt with the same allowances for all sections of 1.5 cm.

IMPORTANT! PLANKS ARE CUT WITHOUT ALLOWANCES.

There are many small details in the shirt that strengthen the adhesive, so it is better to first mark the location of these details on the fabric (stands, collars and cuffs), then cut this piece of fabric and strengthen it with adhesive. And only then cut out all the small details from the glued fabric. So the work is accelerated, and the cut is more accurate.

IN A WOMEN'S SHIRT, IT IS NECESSARY TO STRENGTHEN ALL PAIR PARTS OF THE STAND, COLLAR AND CUFF TOGETHER WITH ALLOWANCES WITH A THIN GLUE.

Glue G785 is perfect for these purposes, as well as interlining H180 and their analogues. The duplicating material should be thin and pliable, as opposed to men's shirts.
Then, on the glue mark all the allowances on small parts.

STEP 3. PROCESSING THE PLANKS

Planks are processed first after cutting, even before the first fitting, because they do not affect the fit of the product.

To do this, you need to chop off or bend a paper plank on the pattern and with an iron, without chipping off the pattern, iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf, first on one part, then turn the shelves over and iron the bar on the other part. Pin the planks onto the shelf.

Then stitch the strips on the shelf 1 mm from the fold (to the edge) and mark loops and buttons on them with an aquamarker. This is required for sampling. The loops go along the bar and in the middle of it.

DO NOT FORGET THAT ON THE PATTERNS IN THE MAGAZINE THE MARKING OF THE LOOP IS GIVEN FOR THE SMALLEST SIZE! REMEMBER THIS WHEN REMOVING THE PATTERN.

STEP 4

Lay the pleat on the back and stitch it along the allowance. This will fix her. Baste the shirt for the first fitting. For her, it is enough to baste only one detail of the coquette. The second yoke is sewn on after trying on. Try on a shirt, fit it to your figure.

STEP 5. PROCESSING COQUETS

In order to sew on the second yoke, you will have to dissolve the basting on the sides after trying on.

Lay the shirt face up on the table.

Roll up the back detail on the yoke with a tube.

Roll up the details of the shelves on the yoke.

Lay the second yoke face down on top and pin with the bottom yoke. The twisted details of the shelves and back remain inside, between the coquettes.

Stitch details of coquettes. Trim the allowances to 5-7 mm.

Unscrew the yokes, pull the details of the shelves and back out through the neck.
Iron the seams of the coquette. Sew them from the front of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.

STEP 6. PROCESSING THE COLLAR

Collar details fold face to face, chop them off and stitch along the markings. Cut out allowances in the corners up to 1 mm from the stitching and trim to 5 mm.

Iron the collar allowances on the block.

Turn the collar inside out, iron without a transitional piping and topstitch along the edge.

On one part of the rack, cut the bottom allowance.

Trim the trimmed bottom edge. To do this, apply an oblique trim from a finishing fabric (I use tie silk) and stitch it on the lower cut of the stand 5-6 mm from the edge.

Wrap the cut of the rack with inlay and iron it.

Lay a line exactly in the stitching seam of the inlay (immediately under the oblique inlay), grabbing the second cut of the inlay from the inside.

Prick a stand without trim with the face on the lower collar. Combine the cuts, the middle, check the symmetry of the ends of the stand by folding the collar with the pinned stand in half.

From the side of the upper collar, put the edged stand face down.

Stitch the racks, grabbing the collar between them. Cut allowances in roundings to 1 mm, in other areas to 7 mm.

Unscrew the racks, iron without transitional edge.

IMPORTANT! WE IRON OR THE COLLAR OR THE STAND SEPARATELY SO THE COLLAR DOES NOT LOSE SHAPE.

On the top stand, draw a line for attaching the collar.

STEP 7. SEWING THE COLLAR

Mark the middle of the stand and the middle of the collar. Prick the collar into the neck from the front of the shirt, combining the middle, ends of the collar and placket, also marks along the shoulder seams. Sew the collar into the neck, laying the line exactly along the marked line.

Cut out the seam allowances at the ends of the collar, iron the stand allowances.

Prick the second post over the seam so as to overlap the stitching.

Baste the stand so that the basting goes on one side along the edge of the oblique inlay, and on the other side into the seam for attaching the collar. It is better to leave pins in the corners of the collar for better fixation of the stand.

Lay the line exactly on the edge of the inlay. Finally iron the stand.

STEP 8. PROCESSING THE FIGURED BOTTOM OF THE SHIRT

You can process the bottom of the shirt in the classic way by tucking the allowances twice and stitching them. But my bottom of the shelves is much shorter than the bottom of the back, so it’s better to process it separately at the shelves and back.

Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the bottom, trim it in case of unevenness.
Fold the shelves with the back. Where the rounding of the bottom ends, make notches 5-7 mm along the allowances. This will be the end of the side seam.

Turn around the bottom of the shelves and the backrest separately with an oblique inlay (just like the stand, you just need to tuck the second cut of the inlay). At the slats, bend the ends of the inlay inward.

STEP 9. SLEEVES

Cut the bottom of the sleeve along the markings.

Trim with a bias tape that side of the cut, which is closer to the seam of the sleeve.

Make a cutting plank. The width of the strap in the cut is 4 cm (2 cm in finished form).
The length of the strap is 3 cm longer than the length of the incision. The top of the bar can be made as a corner or straight.

Cut out strips with 1 cm allowances.

Fold the planks in half lengthwise, stitch the top corner along the markings (3 cm above the cut).
Allowances in the corners cut and cut to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make a notch on the allowance.

Unscrew the strips, iron. Lay the finishing line along the fold of the bar to the height of the cut.

On the front side of the sleeve, put on and stitch the bar on the second side of the cut. Notch the allowance above the line.

Iron the allowance inside the bar, prick the second fold of the bar over the stitching seam.

Prick the bar over the slit and topstitch over the slit along the edge and top corner.

Here's what happened.

STEP 10. SEWING THE SLEEVE

On the front side sleeves sweep the allowances of the okat to a width of 5-6 mm and iron them.

Poke the sleeve into the armhole so that the armhole allowance does not protrude beyond the fold of the sleeve allowance.

Sew the sleeve into the armhole 6-7 mm from the fold of the sleeve allowance. Important! The line must be at the same distance from the fold of the allowance, otherwise the seam will not be even.

Press seam allowances into armholes, pin and baste.

Sew the armhole allowance exactly along the edge of the allowance fold.

View of the stitched-in sleeve from the face of the shirt.

STEP 11. SIDE SEAMS

Fold the allowances of the side seam and the seam of the sleeve so that one allowance protrudes 6-7 mm behind the other, chop them off and sew 6-7 mm from the smaller cut.

You can fold the allowances evenly, but then you have to trim one allowance. The first way is easier and faster.

Iron the protruding allowance to a smaller one.

Then lay out the details of the shelf and back, iron the allowances, then pin them on the seam and stitch on the details of the sleeve and shelf.

On the front side, a seam with a stitching turned out. Back seam with two stitches.

STEP 12. PROCESSING THE CUFF

On the outer cuff, iron the hem allowance inside out and stitch it 1 cm from the fold.

Fold the cuff pieces face to face and sew them along the markings. Cut the allowances in the roundings to 1 mm, the rest - up to 5-6 mm from the line.

Iron the allowances on the block, like at the collar. Turn the cuff inside out and iron without the transition band. Along the fold line of the outer part, draw a line for attaching the cuff.

Sew along the outer edge of the cuff, starting and ending at the bottom cross stitch!

Lay the pleats at the bottom of the sleeve. From the front side, the folds of the folds look at the cut of the sleeve.

Insert the cuff into the sleeve from the wrong side! Stitch the cuff according to the markup. Trim the seam allowances at the ends of the cuff.

Iron the allowances into the cuff. Prick the folded edge of the cuff on the front side of the sleeve, overlapping the sewing line.

Sew the cuff along the edge of the fold. It turns out that on the front side the cuff has two parallel finishing lines along the bottom.

STEP 13. HINGES

Punch loops along the markup, sew on buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the rack - along the rack, on the cuff - along the cuff and 5-7 mm from its short edge. The length of the buttonhole is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm.

The idea to start sewing men's clothing sometimes frightens even experienced needlewomen who have already got their hands on the manufacture of women's and children's products. And the seams are not the same, and the slats and collars are processed differently - it can be difficult to abandon the usual techniques. But if you want to please your loved one - why not try? Moreover, in fact, everything turns out to be not so difficult. In addition, some of the fair sex try to have things in their wardrobe in men's style, so new tricks will not be superfluous. How to sew a shirt will be discussed in our article.

Types of shirts

Before sewing a women's shirt, it will be very useful for beginners to deal with men's sewing. Men's shirts are divided into two types:

• summer;
• tie shirts.

A summer shirt has an open collar, while a shirt has it on a stand - this is a more complex option. It's better to start with summer. She also has the advantage that such a product can be sewn from bright and even colorful fabric so that the mistakes inevitable at the first stage do not spoil the overall look. In addition, a summer shirt can also be assembled with a regular seam, with open sections processed with an overlock. But if you want to make a branded product, you need to immediately master the sewing seam.

Trying the seam

This option for connecting parts is also called a linen seam, since it is used for the manufacture of duvet covers, pillowcases and other similar products. To sew a shirt, you need to be confident enough to own this, in fact, a fairly ordinary technology.

The main version of the sewing seam is performed in several stages:

1. Cut 2 identical pieces.
2. Determine which side the allowance will be ironed on - this part should be on top when applied.
3. Fold the blanks so that the cut of the lower part protrudes 2-5 mm.
4. Bend the allowance of the bottom piece to the top.
5. Sweep and stitch the pieces.
6. Spread the workpiece in one layer front side up.
7. Iron the allowance on the side of the part that was on top.
8. Iron the seam on the front side.
9. Sew the seam allowance 1 mm from the fold - it is better to use a seam with a bartack.
10. Iron the seam on both sides.

Important! All the details of a classic men's shirt are stitched in this way. But nothing prevents the use of this connection method when sewing summer shirts - both men's and women's.

Training

Knowing the main seam, you can quickly find a way to sew a men's shirt - the master class will not take so much time. The question immediately arises, where to get the pattern:

• It is best to order it in the studio, because everything will be done strictly according to the standards. It will come in handy more than once if you are going to sheathe your lover further.
• But not everyone has such an opportunity, but building a pattern on your own is a rather painstaking task (although the process is described in great detail in old sewing publications).
• The most popular options are to translate from a fashion magazine or download on the Internet, fortunately, many fashion houses have their own websites and regularly post patterns along with manufacturing instructions.
• The traditional home option, when an unnecessary but suitable product is torn apart, is not very suitable here - there is a lot of fuss with sewing seams. But, if there is no other way, then this one can be used. The main thing is not to cut the seams, but to carefully rip them apart. It is better to iron the allowances, rather than cut them off, so that if necessary, the pattern can be corrected.

Choosing a fabric

Shirts are most often sewn from shirt fabric. The summer version can also be made from ordinary chintz or satin. Adhesive calico is usually used to strengthen the collar. In all cases, it must be taken into account that this product is washed quite often, so the fabric should not shrink.

To avoid trouble, the material must be decoded:

1. Soak the cut in warm water.
2. Gently wring it out, but do not twist it
3. Let it dry a bit to keep it moist.
4. Lay it out on a horizontal surface with the wrong side up.
5. Dry with an iron.
6. Do the same procedure with coarse calico.

Important! The fabric should not be folded in half - this way it is very easy to iron the fold, and then it will be very difficult to smooth it out.

cutting

If you took a pattern from a magazine, it indicates how the details should be cut:

• along the shared thread;
• along the transverse;
• obliquely.

Arrows are usually placed on the drawings, which must be translated into patterns. If for some reason the arrows are missing, follow a few common principles:

1. The main details - a shelf, a back, a sleeve - are cut along the share.
2. The yoke, riser and cuffs are located transversely.
3. When cutting, a monophonic fabric is folded along, the edges are combined.

Important! In magazines and on specialized sites, halves of the drawings of racks, yokes and cuffs are usually given. This is not very convenient. It is much better to cut them out of paper entirely, and then transfer them to fabric. But if the cut is large enough, you can cut it in half, aligning the middle cuts with the fold of the fabric.

Transfer the patterns to the fabric (if you have a plain shirt fabric, it is better to use a special aqua marker for this purpose, which is easily washed off) and make allowances of 1.5 cm in all sections. Small details are cut with an allowance of 1 cm. These fragments include:

• collar;
• rack;
• pockets;
• cuffs;
• facing cuts of sleeves;
• planks.

Important! If the fabric is striped, the cut should be folded so that the edges of the strips match, not the edges.

Strengthening the details

It will be much easier to assemble the product if you prepare all the details in advance. You should start by strengthening the collar. Adhesive calico can have different hardness - soft calico is taken for summer shirts, harder for office shirts, and if you need a collar for a tie, the toughest calico is glued in two layers.

The collar for an office shirt requires special attention, because the layers in it are different. One gasket has an allowance, the other does not. Therefore, we do this:

1. We glue a detail with an allowance on the upper collar.
2. We glue the second layer on top of the first, this workpiece does not have an allowance. The pad is ironed so that it does not come off after several washes.

In principle, the second layer does not have to be glued to the entire part. You can only strengthen the corners in this way if the calico is thick enough.

Important! There is another way - special plastic bones inserted into the drawstrings.

plank

There are two types of slats on shirts:

• double;
• male.

Double plank

Its width is 2-4 cm, depending on the style. No allowance is left along the edge.

Option 1:

1. Iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf.
2. Stitch it at a distance of 1 mm from the fold.

Option 2:

1. As in the first case, iron the bar twice on the wrong side.
2. Mark places for buttons and loops.
3. When the product is ready and the buttons are sewn into place, the bar will fix itself.

Men's plank

It differs from the double one in that it is done only on the left shelf - where the loops are located. On the other side is the usual double, buttons are sewn on it. The width is 3-4 cm, plus 1 cm for processing:

1. Iron the bar twice on the wrong side of the shelf.
2. At a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold, make a line.
3. Unscrew the bar so that the cut is in the fold.
4. Iron on.
5. Lay the second line at a distance of 0.5 cm from the fold.

Assembly of the main parts

It's time to do the shelf. In a classic men's pattern, it consists of two parts - the actual shelves and the barrel. Select the seam you will use to sew the pieces to sew the shirt:

1. Sew the barrel to the part of the shelf - you need to do this from the side of the barrel.
2. Sew the yoke to the shelf and back - when folding the parts (as in the description of the seam), the yoke will be from below.

double coquette

In classic men's shirts, the coquette is often made double. In this case, no allowances are visible. What's the matter?

1. Pin the front and back pieces onto one of the yoke pieces.
2. Roll up the shelves and back with a rudder and roll it onto a yoke.
3. Lay the second part of the yoke face down on this entire design.
4. Stitch both details of the coquettes, capturing the main blanks as well.
5. Trim the allowances so that no more than 5 mm remain.
6. Pull out the main parts through the neck.
7. Iron the seams.

The most important task is completed, it remains only to delay the coquettes along the seams, as well as sew the neck sections.

One of the main technological differences in the manufacture of men's and women's shirts is the order in which the details are ground:

• When sewing a women's shirt, the shoulder and side seams are first connected, and only then the sleeve is sewn in.
• AT men's clothing- on the contrary, the sleeve must be planted in the armhole before the side seams and even the seam of the sleeve itself are completed. To do this, you will need a certain number of pins - it is more convenient to stick the part in, and not to sweep it in.

Here is the standard order:

1. Fasten the sleeve in the armhole - do not forget about the marks on the collar.
2. Sew the part - this should be done from the side of the sleeve.
3. If the seam is regular, the allowance is ironed on the armhole, and then a line is laid along the armhole.
4. Sew with one line the side seams of the front and back and the seam of the sleeve itself.

Important! If you used a regular seam, overcast the seam allowances together and then press them to the side of the back.

Sleeves

Sleeve placket

The appearance of the product largely depends on how well the various small parts are processed. Particularly the sleeve trims. There are several options, but the most popular is the following:

1. Mark a 12-14 cm incision - it should be at the back.
2. Cut out the bar, which should be 16-18 cm long and 7 cm wide.
3. Sew it along the slit on the side where the distance from the seam to the slit is greater.
4. Make a cut so that about one and a half centimeters or even a little less remain to the edge of the line.
5. At the end of the cut, cut a triangle towards the end of the stitch.
6. Iron the allowance that goes along the bar onto it.
7. Turn the free edge of the cut twice 0.5 cm to the wrong side and stitch.
8. Iron the triangle up.
9. Iron the bar itself into the cut, and then fold it in half lengthwise and iron it too so that the fold covers the seam with which the part was sewn.

Important! As for the upper edge of the bar, it is folded into a corner and adjusted to the sleeve.

cuffs

Glue the outer part of the cuff with coarse calico to almost finish sewing the men's shirt (there should be an allowance on the lining):

1. Iron the bottom cut to the wrong side.
2. Attach the allowance.
3. Place both cuff pieces together right sides together.
4. Sew them.
5. Cut the allowances to 0.5 cm, in the corners - obliquely.
6. Turn out the cuff.
7. Iron her.
8. Lay the folds along the bottom of the sleeve - the folds should be located on the side of the cut.
9. Place the cuff so that its reinforced part is on the front side.
10. Attach.
11. Iron the allowances towards the cuff.
12. Mask the seam from the front side by bending the reinforced part of the cuff so that it covers the line.
13. Sew the cuff to the edge, then topstitch.

Collar

One of the main details of a men's shirt - and women's, by the way, too. It's already prepared for you. Then proceed like this:

1. Cut the lower part (on which there is no coarse calico) along the upper and side cuts.
2. Mark the midpoints of both collar pieces.
3. Align the details.
4. Fold them right sides to each other, chip or sweep, aligning all the cuts.
5. Stitch the details from the bottom side, making cross stitches in the corners.
6. Trim the corner allowances 1mm from the seam.
7. Trim straight seam allowances to 0.5 cm from the seam.
8. Iron the allowance on the lower collar.
9. Turn out the part.
10. Straighten the corners.
11. Iron so that the edge of the top collar overlaps slightly with the bottom one.
12. Sew the bottom edges
13. Fold the collar in half.
14. Check the corners and trim the bottom cut.
15. Sew the collar, turning Special attention at the corners (it is better to lay an auxiliary thread there).

Rack

In any case, the stand should be somewhat stiffer than the collar. At the same time, the part that will be in contact with the neck is glued together with allowances, and the outer part is strictly according to the pattern:

1. Iron the allowances of the inner part of the allowances from the side of the neck to the wrong side.
2. Lay a line along the bottom edge, grabbing and cut the allowance.
3. Place a collar on the outer stand so that the glued side of it is on top.
4. Align the parts and stitch along the top of the racks, and trim the allowances.
5. Unscrew the stand.
6. Iron.
7. Mark the sewing line along the fold of the outer rack.
8. Sweep and stitch the collar, iron the allowance towards the stand.
9. Baste the stand so that the hem lies on the line.
10. As with all small details, sew along the edge.

Bottom

Well, almost everything is ready, it remains to process the bottom:

1. Fold the seam allowance on the wrong side by 0.7 cm.
2. Iron.
3. Bend the allowance again to the same distance.
4. Sew it at a distance of 0.1 cm from the fold.

It remains to make loops and sew on buttons.

Women's shirt

Having once tried to sew a men's shirt, you will very easily find the answer to the question of how to sew a women's shirt. Yes, almost the same, only the fastener is made on the other side, that is, the bar with loops will be on the right shelf. In this case, you can safely use ordinary seams. There are many options for processing the bottom - it can, for example, be made curly. As for small details, they need to be strengthened in the same way so that they keep their shape better. All paired details are strengthened:

• rack;
• collar;
• cuffs.

As for the sequence in which it is most convenient to sew a women's shirt with your own hands, it will be as follows:

1. Treat all slats in the same way as for a men's shirt.
2. Sweep the product for the first fitting, if necessary - lay a fold along the back, while it is not necessary to assemble the yoke, you can limit yourself to one detail.
3. Sew a yoke and connect it to the front and back.
4. Attach sleeves.
5. Process the collar in the way already described.
6. Sew on the collar.
7. Process the bottom, sew on the buttons and make loops.

No pattern

Is it possible to sew a long-sleeve shirt with your own hands without a pattern quickly? Nothing is impossible! Only it will not be a classic shirt - rather, something in the folk style, because shirts used to be sewn without any patterns. It will turn out to be one-piece, and as a collar, you can make a low stand. Although nothing prevents the connection different types cut - for example, make a shelf, back and sleeves in the form of rectangles, but sew on classic cuffs and a classic collar. Of course it will women's shirt, and a very interesting style.

Thus, sewing even a classic shirt is not so difficult, the main thing is to follow the technology and perform all operations patiently and accurately. As for non-traditional models, then modern fashion so democratic that any novice needlewoman can come up with something interesting, including the representatives of the stronger sex.

Classic blouse

Kuznetsova Nina

Since my daughter needed a blouse for casual wear and in a short time, I took size 44 as a basis

Stage 1

cutting and making changes to the pattern

When cutting, do not forget to put notches on the marks on the pattern.

On the pattern shelves made changes.

I drew a new line for the plank ( red) stepping back to the left from the line of the middle of the front 1.5 cm. Cutting along this line, I got the following ....

I cut a shelf without a bar, bending the main pattern along the red line

On the back I made changes immediately on the fabric: I lengthened it down by 5 cm and rounded it on the side, I drew two tucks at the waist.

Sleeve. Having previously measured it for my daughter, the main pattern of the sleeve turned out to be short, I just added 3 cm + 1 cm seam allowance to the bottom of the sleeve when cutting on the fabric.

The photo shows it very well.

Cuff. The cuff was first cut on non-woven fabric, at the same time adding 3 cm for the fastener + 1 cm for seam allowances on all sides. Cut out. Only after that I glued the interlining with an iron on the fabric. These changes are clearly visible in the photo.

Collar And rack left unchanged. First of all, I cut on non-woven fabric, making allowances for the seam, and then glued it to the fabric and cut it out.

planochka for the front, it was first cut on non-woven fabric, at the same time I added an allowance for the seams, and added 5 cm along the bottom, because lengthened the entire blouse + 1cm seam allowance.

Cut the panels and cuffs on the fabric:

Open collar:

Collar stand. Be sure to put notches, they are very useful when sewing a collar.

Important note! Unfortunately, I missed one thing: when cutting the collar and collar, I did not measure the paper pattern of the collar around the neck of my daughter. As a result, when she sewed the collar to the shelf, it turned out that the collar was just right next to her and it was hard for her to breathe. I had to beat this failure, they did not make an eyelet and a button on the counter. After all this, I made changes to the main pattern:

1. deepened the neck of the back and shelves by approximately 0.5 cm
2. along the line of the middle of the collar and stand added 1 cm

in general, I immediately adjusted the main pattern so that everything would fit normally the next time the pattern was used.

Sewing a blouse

1 Stitch a chest tuck on the shelf. I will stitch the tuck at the waist later, after trying it on. Because I like everything to fit perfectly.

2 Sew a duplicated plank to the shelf, I ironed it along the fold line in advance and overlaid it along the edge of the pick. Turn the allowance to the middle of the front. Sew a plank along the front side. Just now bend the pick.

3 Stitch shoulder seams.

4 Stitch, combining marks, sleeves.

5. We sew a collar. In fact, I thought I would be fiddling with the collar the longest, but thanks to the accuracy of the marks on the pattern, everything came together in one go.

Sew along the corners of the collar and carefully turn it inside out.

On the rack, make a notch along the middle line.

Bend the collar in half, make a notch along the fold line.

We combine the notches in the middle of the collar and the stand.

We pierce with needles.

We draw.

We turn our work around. As a result, we get:

From the inside, we pin our collar to the neckline of the blouse, aligning the marks of the shoulder seams. We draw.

We turn the work face up and pin the other side of the rack with needles. Since this is the front side, the place where the plank should match perfectly. The rack should not look beyond the bar.

Sew the stand on the front side

The collar is ready. I did the decorative stitching at the very end.

Cuff processing

my cuff looks like in the photo:

Accordingly, I did not use fold marks on the main sleeve pattern, but made my own marks ..

stitch up the side seam.

We detach the cuffs.

Carefully unfold cuffs. Finished cuffs, already with an allowance for the fastener:

From the wrong side on the sleeve, from the side of the back, I put two marks 6 cm and 9 cm, since the width of the fastener is only 3 cm.

We put labels.

We put the cuffs into the sleeve, observing the place for the fastener.

Prick everything with needles and sew on a typewriter.

Your shirt is closer to your body. She - basic thing in the ladies wardrobe. No wonder this versatile top for trousers and skirts is always included in professional uniforms. A fashionable women's shirt can be fitted or loose, any color, with a pattern you like, completely repeat the men's cut or be its diametrical opposite. The style is limited only by the imagination of the hostess or the requirements of the dress code.

It remains only to sew a shirt with your own hands and wear it with pleasure!

Step one - choose a model and fabric

Women's shirt is much freer in the choice of model, fabrics and patterns than men's. But still, it is better to sew it from natural or mixed fabrics (a little synthetics are always added to shirting fabrics so that the product keeps longer appearance and didn't hesitate). The best choice will become poplin.

If you are going to use another fabric, then pay attention to its wrinkling, you can check this by tightly squeezing the fabric in your fist for a few seconds. If the folds are quickly straightened, then this is your option. Crepes wrinkle the least.

The pattern also matters: small elements and beautiful stitching are better visible, they look more advantageous in laconic models and on large figures. Classic or can be used not only traditionally, but also boldly combined with other prints or creatively arranged in a shirt cut.

Slim fit any silhouettes, for full figure it is better to choose a semi-adjacent silhouette and opaque fabrics. Just remember that satins and shiny fabrics treacherously emphasize volumes.

For office options classic (solid or with a soft pattern) and muted tones are best suited. Silhouettes are semi-adjacent or moderately loose with a minimum amount of detail and decoration. These shirts will best fit into the wardrobe of a business lady. By the way, even for the most boring office shirt, you can sew a removable frill, tie or bow tie from the same fabric and change the image depending on the situation. Women's shirts from can be used as clothing for special occasions.

If the dress code is not a decree for you, then the field for experiments is not limited by anything!

Strictly

Classic

juicy

romantic

Step two - pattern of a women's shirt

It is most relevant to sew a classic shirt of a semi-adjacent silhouette with a stand-up collar, a yoke on the back and long sleeves with cuffs. You will need a proven foundation for an adjacent silhouette. All modeling - transfer of the chest tuck into the side seam and modeling of the coquette by transferring the tuck into the armhole on the back.

You can find a suitable pattern in the Burda 2015-2016 Autumn-Winter magazine.

Step three - cutting and sewing

Sewing machine with straight stitch (or stretch if the fabric is elastane), overlock (or zigzag stitch), good mood- that's all you need!

Before cutting natural fabrics Be sure to wash as they shrink! When buying fabrics made of cotton, silk, viscose, add 5-10 cm for an emergency. For fabrics with a pattern, another 10-15 cm will be required to be able to combine the pattern or its most successful location.

Allowances for seams and hem hem - 1.5 cm. We transfer all marks to the fabric (middle of the front, back, collar), mark the location of the pockets with hand stitches with contrasting threads (they are then removed).

We sew in this order:

• we duplicate the selection, we perform tucks on the shelf;
• we process the details of the pockets and sew them according to the markup to the shelf;
• we connect the yoke and the detail of the back, we perform tucks;
• we perform shoulder seams;
• duplicate and assemble collar details;
• we sew a collar or we make out a neck with a facing;
• we sew sleeves;
• we connect the lower seam of the sleeve and the side seam of the product with one seam;
• we process and sew cuffs;
• we perform the bending of the bottom of the product;
• we sweep loops, sew on buttons.

Collecting compliments!

In this cutting technique, we will consider two shirt silhouettes: semi-adjacent And straight. The shirt of a semi-adjacent silhouette assumes the presence of chest and tackle darts, while the product is quite free and dynamic. The shirt of a straight silhouette has no tucks, and the product itself is looser. As a result, the cut of these two silhouettes differs not only in the increase in loose fit, but also by some construction constructions. To build a pattern for a shirt with a straight and semi-adjacent silhouette, we will use the following allowances for a loose fit:

The increase along the chest line between the details of the structure is distributed as follows:
Let's prepare a blank sheet of paper, the length of which is 5-10 cm longer than the measurement of the length of the product.

Drawing grid
Product length and width. Stepping back from the top edge of a sheet of paper 5 cm, we draw a rectangle AA 1 H 1 H, where the sides AH and A 1 H 1 are equal to the measure of the length of the product, and the sides AA 1 and HH 1 are the measure of the half-girth of the chest with an increase in free fit (AH = A 1 H 1 \u003d Di \u003d 68 cm; AA 1 \u003d HH 1 \u003d Cr + CO \u003d 40.5 + 5.5 \u003d 46 cm). note, in this example I used an increase for a semi-adjacent silhouette, if you draw a straight silhouette, then do not forget to substitute the appropriate allowances for a loose fit into the formulas (see table above).

Armhole depth. From point A, down in a straight line, lay off 1/3 measurements of the half-girth of the chest + CO (see the table of increments) and put the point G (segment AG \u003d 1 / 3Сg + CO \u003d 40.5: 3 + 9 \u003d 22.5 cm). From the point Г to the right we draw a horizontal straight line to the intersection with the segment A 1 H 1, we denote the intersection point Г 1.

Determination of the width of the shirt along the hip line. Now, from the measurement of the half-circumference of the hips with an increase in free fit, we subtract the width of our product (Sb + CO-AA 1 \u003d 44.8 + 4-46 \u003d 2.8 cm), the result is the value of the expansion of the product along the hip line.

Side cut. From the point T 2 along the waistline to the right and left, set aside half the solution of the side tuck (we calculated its value a little higher) and mark the points that we will connect with straight lines to the point G 4.

The width of which is twice the width of the semi-skid, the length of the plank is equal to the length of the shelf along the line of the semi-skid, while the upper cut of the plank repeats the cut of the neck of the shelf along the entire width of the plank.

Its configuration is completed by extending the line of the bottom of the shelf by twice the width of the half-skid, and then drawing a vertical line upwards from the resulting point. The neck line on the bar is drawn symmetrically to the neck of the shelf relative to the half-skid line. When sewing a shirt with a one-piece placket, the placket itself is folded along the half-sliding line to the wrong side of the product.

Slipper clasp

It is a secret fastener, the buttons in such a fastener are hidden and are not visible from the front side of the product. The configuration of such a fastener is completed from a one-piece strap, extending the bottom line of the product by a length equal to twice the width of the strap. As a result, three bar widths are obtained along the bottom line, a vertical straight line is drawn upwards from each width. The neck line of the fastener is drawn symmetrically with respect to the line of the first bar. Along the half-skid line of the shirt, the fastener is folded to the wrong side, along the next vertical line, the fastener is bent, and along the next vertical line, the fastener is again folded to the wrong side and the cut line of the shelf (on the fastener) is sewn from the wrong side of the product. The slip fastener is built on only one part of the shelf, on which buttonholes are located, and only a one-piece bar is built on the part with buttons.