Finishing and artistic processing. Classification and assortment of jewelry What is decorative processing of jewelry

There are many techniques for processing materials for jewelry. Consider the main ones:

Nitriding– thermal coloring of metal in a gaseous medium. It is used for decorating art and jewelry.

In some minerals, the color is associated with the radiation effect. The change in color occurs as a result of violations of the crystal lattice caused by the action of radiation.

Anodizing– electrochemical surface treatment of aluminum jewelry to obtain a transparent and durable oxide film, amenable to penetrating coloring and polishing. As a result of anodizing, aluminum jewelry can be painted in gold, silver and other colors.

Rolling– rolling of metal ingots through rolls. Produced on a special mill. In this case, sheets, strips or bars of metal of the desired thickness and shape are obtained - round, oval, square, etc.

Drawing- one of the processes of procurement of materials for the production of jewelry. An ingot of round cross-section up to a certain size is pulled through wire rollers, periodically annealing. Then the resulting wire is pulled through the holes of the drawing boards to the desired diameter. Diamond filters are used to obtain thin gold wire.

bluing- heating products in an alkaline solution or oil emulsion to form an oxide film of blue-violet, brown or reddish-brown color. In addition to corrosion protection, burnishing also plays a decorative role.

galtovka- cleaning the surface of jewelry by rotating it in drums loaded with steel balls, leather trimmings and sand or other abrasive materials.

Electrotype- replication of art products by electrolytic means, i.e. by building metal into molds (gypsum, wax, graphite), suspended in an electrolyte solution and under the influence of an electric current. When processing art products by electroplating, pure copper, zinc, and silver are used.

Glyptika (Greek gliptike, from glyph? - cut out)- the art of stone carving. The art of carving on semi-precious stones is one of the most ancient types of stone processing. It is not so much the stone itself that is valued here, but the skill of its processing. The technique of glyptics is that the stone is placed on a stone slab, and then the desired pattern is applied to it with iron chisels or sharp fragments of large hard minerals.

deep etching- consists in obtaining various flat-relief images on metal jewelry by electrochemical processing.

Blind bartack (crimp)- lies in the fact that the stone is attached in casts, without prongs and with a special bartacking belt compresses the stone around the entire circumference.

bending- a simplified form of forging. It is carried out by riveting bent elements of the workpiece.

High relief (French haut-relief - high relief) It is a sculptural image or ornament that protrudes on a flat surface by more than half the thickness of the depicted object.

Engraving– applying shallow patterns to the surface of jewelry and art products, to jewelry made of metal, bone, and other materials using chisels (steel cutters 100–120 cm long). There are two types of engraving on metal: under gloss (in which the recesses and the surface part of the pattern are open for viewing), and under black (when the engraved pattern is intended to be filled with black). Engraving on a bone consists in the fact that at first a drawing is made on the plate, then lines of various depths are applied with an engraving needle (shiksel).

Engraving can be: dashed (the drawing is done with contour lines and strokes) and relief (when the background is selected and the image details are cut in relief).

Grisant setting- lies in the fact that the upper part of the caste is tightly crimped and the rim that holds the stone is finished with a small notch (grisant).

Jewelry decoration- one of the jewelry manufacturing processes, the purpose of which is to give jewelry high aesthetic properties. Decoration methods: gilding, silvering, oxidation, anodizing, engraving, blackening, enameling, chasing, etc.

Difovka (drill)- an ancient technique of cold working of sheet metal with a thickness of not more than 2 mm. It is produced by hammer blows directly on the metal, as a result of which it stretches, bends and acquires the desired shape.

Preparation of materials for the manufacture of jewelry- one of the main processes for the production of jewelry, incl. jewelry. The quality of finished products largely depends on it. It is carried out by melting, rolling, drawing.

Setting stones- setting stones in jewelry plays an important role. The aesthetic value of the product largely depends on how the jeweler sets the stone, what method of fixing it chooses.

There are the following fixing methods:

• prong setting;
• crimson fastener.

Setting in a center punch consists in the fact that the stone is attached not to a separate frame (cast), but to the product itself, for this, a hole is drilled on the surface of the product, a stone is inserted into it and a special cutter (“chisel”) is pushed along the rim of the metal particles onto the stone, on which a retaining rim is formed.

• Fastening with glue, used for fastening inserts made of plastic, faceted glass stones, faceted pieces of white metal (marcasite), etc.;
• grisant setting;
• deaf bartack;
• fastening on pins with glue is used to fasten inserts made of pearls or coral, which, when fastened, do not have hollow holes in the grains;
• setting in a mirror frame, used to enhance the effect of the shine of the stone. It is inserted into a mirror frame, i.e., into a narrow polished metal rim (mirror) that surrounds the stone.

Grain- decoration of individual elements of jewelry with center punches (soldered metal balls with a diameter of 0.5 to 3-4 mm). Used to decorate filigree products in combination with filigree.

Gilding- Coating jewelry made of less resistant metals with resistant ones to give the products an elegant look and protect them from corrosion. It is usually produced electrolytically. The process consists in depositing a layer of metal from an aqueous salt solution on the surface of the products. The product to be gilded is suspended in a bath filled with a solution of the deposited metal (electrolyte), a direct current is passed through the bath, and gold is released from the solution in the bath, which is deposited on the surface of the product. The layer of gilding can be different depending on the type of jewelry and its purpose. For example, for earrings, brooches, medallions made of silver, the thickness of the gilding layer is 1 micron (a micron is 0.001 mm), for chains - 2 microns.

Inlay (lat. incrustatio)- jewelry made from pieces of various materials (bone, wood, mother-of-pearl, glass, stone, etc.) cut into the surface of a piece of jewelry. Jewelry with inlay is made at the enterprises by artists of art crafts of Russia.

Intarsia (Italian intarsio)- wooden polished inlay, made up of multi-colored pieces of wood of various species.

Irisation- the application of the thinnest layers of metal oxides, giving the effect of iridescent tint of the same kind that is obtained from oil stains on water. It got its name from lat. the words "iris" - the iris (eyes), because in terms of color spectrum it is similar to iridescent colors, which are especially clearly manifested on cracks and fractures of stones in sunlight. Os of irrigation was mentioned by Agricola (1546). In jewelry, iridescence is achieved by treating the surface of items with stannous chloride vapors.

Forging- one of the oldest types of metal processing. It consists in the plastic processing of metal by flattening with hammer blows, presses, bending, twisting, etc. There are two types of forging: with preheating of the workpiece and without heating (cold). Forging ingots or blanks of precious metals is most often done in a cold state. From the elements of forged blanks, you can make any decoration: a ring, earrings, a brooch, etc.

Kratsovka- one of the types of finishing operations in the manufacture of jewelry, associated with the surface treatment of products. Brushing is done with round brushes made of thin brass or steel wire on a rotary machine to give the product the necessary matte surface.

Prong setting- the most common type of fixing stones in the product. It is used most often when setting transparent precious and semi-precious stones. It allows you to better show the mineral and gives it more light than any other setting. The disadvantage is that the stone in it is not held very securely. With a prong setting, the frame of the product has an oval or round shape with paws (prongs).

Casting- molding of jewelry and bijouterie from molten metal. There are several ways of artistic casting: casting products in a one- or two-sided earth mold using flasks (metal frames with high rectangular walls filled with molding sand); investment casting; in a chill mold (chill casting); in a metal detachable form; into solid earthen molds obtained by molding and subsequent smelting of wax models (used when casting unique products of complex configuration), into shell molds, when the surface of the products is pre-coated with a silicate shell that ensures the purity of the casting (precision casting).

Investment casting- the most progressive method of manufacturing thin-walled and complex-shaped products from gold and silver alloys. For the manufacture of jewelry in this way, alloys of gold 582 and 750 samples and silver 875 and 916 samples are used. A characteristic feature of investment casting is the use of special molds, auxiliary materials and the forced filling of the mold cavity with liquid metal under the action of centrifugal forces and vacuum suction. This method makes it possible to significantly expand the range of jewelry and increase the production of products from gold and silver alloys, as well as improve their quality.

Matting- surface treatment of metal jewelry with a jet of dry sand or an abrasive emulsion using sandblasters. It is used as a decorative finish to obtain a fine-grained matte texture in combination with filigree.

knurling- drawing a relief pattern on a concentric product. The workpiece is fixed on a lathe. Rotating, it comes into contact with a steel wheel, on which the corresponding pattern is engraved.

notch- a method of obtaining a pattern by inlaying steel or ivory with silver, gold or copper. It consists in sampling recesses on the surface of jewelry with a engraver and hammering metal wire or plates from materials used for inlay.

Oxidation (patonization)- a method of accelerated formation of a natural oxide film on the surface of copper, silver jewelry by treating them with a mixture of sulfides, acids and other reagents.

Soldering- one of the processes of jewelry production. Soldering is carried out with special solders, which consist of metal alloys corresponding to the sample of manufactured products. Solder color should not differ from the color of the product. The most time-consuming process is the manual soldering of chains, the links of which must be firmly connected to each other, carefully soldered, without gaps and traces of solder. The soldering of the links is carried out on soldering machines using powdered solder of a complex composition. After soldering, the products are subjected to further processing - filing, cleaning, grinding, if necessary, annealing, etc.

Sandblasting- finishing operation to give a rough surface to jewelry. Sandblasting is carried out with dry sand, which is directed to the product under pressure from a nozzle (tapering conical nozzle).

Fuse- one of the operations in the process of manufacturing jewelry. Its goal is to obtain an alloy of a certain sample. Melting of precious metals with ligature materials is carried out in graphite crucibles in electric furnaces, as well as in gas, oil and coke ovens (gold and silver). Technically more advanced is the method of melting in electric furnaces. First, refractory metals are melted, then low-melting metals are introduced. To obtain the appropriate blanks (in the form of strips or wire), the molten metal is poured into heated steel or cast iron molds. The resulting ingots are forged with a special hammer to compact the metal structure and increase its ductility.

Polishing- finishing operation in the production of artistic products, giving them gloss and mirror shine. The products are polished by hand with steel and hematite trowels. Products that have the shape of bodies of revolution are polished on special machines using circles of cotton fabric using powders - crocus, tripoli. Widely used electrolytic polishing and surface finishing of gold and silver products with diamond cutters.

Welding- connecting jewelry parts in the process of creating a mold. There are spot contact (capacitor) welding and microplasma.

Capacitor welding can be used to obtain butt, spot, and other types of connections for parts of small thicknesses of precious metals (gold, platinum, silver) and non-precious ones. For spot capacitor welding, for example, 583 gold alloy, cadmium bronze and copper, copper with silver additive, copper and bronze with a small amount of chromium (0.25-0.45%), zirconium (0. 03-0.08%) and titanium (0.04-0.08%).

Microplasma welding is carried out on a special apparatus developed by the Institute of Electric Welding. E. O. Paton. Plasma is a mixture of electrically neutral gas molecules and electrically charged particles - electrons and ions. It can be obtained in various ways, the simplest and most common of which is gas heating in an arc discharge. To prevent the interaction of the weld pool and the heat-affected zone with the atmosphere, a shielding gas is supplied by a nozzle. The protective gases used (argon, helium, hydrogen, nitrogen and carbon dioxide), in addition to protecting the welded seam from oxidation, contribute to intensive arc compression and obtaining a stabilized device in the space of the arc column of small diameter.

Silvering- silver coating of metal products to give them an elegant look and protection against corrosion. Silver plating is usually done electrolytically. The process consists in depositing a layer of metal from an aqueous solution of its salt on the surface of products. The product to be silvered is suspended in a bath filled with a solution of silver to be deposited (electrolyte), a direct current is passed through the bath, and silver is released from the solution in the bath, which is deposited on the surface of the product. The silver layer may be different depending on the type of product.

Toreutics (Greek toruo - I carve, I mint)- the art of manual relief processing of artistic metal products - embossing, embossing, finishing of cast products. Originated in ancient times. The finest decorations have come down to us, magnificently decorated goblets and bowls, made of gold, silver, electra (a natural alloy of gold and silver), made several millennia BC. e.

Chasing- obtaining a complex relief pattern on the surface of jewelry and art products made of metals. It is carried out in different ways: by deposition of metal on a lining matrix; drawing a flat-relief pattern with special stamps; free formation of a relief on a lamellar lining from rubber, lead, pitch. To form a relief pattern, in this case, a set of various tools is used, in the form of blunted teeth, which are placed between the hammer and the product.

Jewelry grinding- used to create a smooth surface of products. It is carried out with the help of rotating grinding felt, felt or calico wheels and powders - pumice, emery.

Stamping (punching, extrusion)- one of the main processes of mass production of jewelry. Individual parts and whole products are obtained by stamping. It is carried out with steel stamps. Stamps cut out flat products or blanks for further operations, and also get hollow products from plates by drawing them. The drawing process consists in the fact that a plate of the metal being processed is placed on a matrix, and a punch is pressed from above, as a result, the plate bends and takes the form of a matrix and a punch. On drawing dies, a pattern is engraved, which is pressed out on products during the pressing process. Products of complex shapes are stamped in several steps on different dies with intermediate annealings to avoid overstressing the metal and breaking the workpieces. A progressive method of manufacturing wedding rings is to obtain them from blanks-washers. The washers are first annealed in a special thermal furnace at a temperature of 680 0 C and, through several successive stamping operations on presses with different shaped dies, a blank is obtained in the form of a cylinder. Then this workpiece is subjected to further processing on scoring and rolling machines. The resulting rings are calibrated according to the dimensions of the inner diameter, branded with the name of the enterprise, and in the inspection of assay supervision - a breakdown, after which they are finally polished and glossy on a grinding machine.

Dash bartack- performed in rings and other jewelry, inexpensive in cost. It is carried out by lifting the frame from the body with a fine chip cutter; it also keeps the stone (but usually glass or plastic) in the caste.

Finishing jewelry is the final surface treatment, bringing them to a state of presentation. Finishing operations can be classified into three types: mechanical finishing - polishing, chasing, engraving; decorative and protective coatings - enamelling, blackening; chemical treatment - oxidation and electroplating.

Polishing. The essence of the polishing process is to remove microroughnesses from the metal surface, which achieves a high class of cleanliness and surface specularity. Jewelry can be polished before being oxidized, before being plated with a layer of another metal. Basically, two types of jewelry polishing are used: mechanical and electrochemical. Mechanical polishing is called piece-by-piece polishing of products with and without abrasive. Mass polishing methods - in drums and containers, despite the fact that they are actually also mechanical, are called galvanic and vibration processing.

Electrochemical polishing is the anodic etching of products in an electrolyte environment under the action of an electric current.

Chasing is a type of artistic processing of metals with special punches, chasing, as a result of which the workpiece takes on an incorrect image. The essence of the minting process lies in the fact that as a result of the pressure exerted on the coinage (by hammer blow), a trace will remain on the metal according to the shape of the working part of the coinage. By repeated blows of various coinage, a given pattern is knocked out.

Distinguish between hand and machine chasing. Chasing is considered manual if the process of punching the image is done manually. Machine chasing is a stamping operation performed on presses using dies. Modern equipment makes it possible to obtain a high quality image, so stamping has greatly reduced the use of hand chasing in the manufacture of jewelry. Chasing should be considered not as a type of decoration, but as an independent type of manufacturing products, which occupies a large place in the art industry.

Engraving is a type of artistic processing of a product, which consists in cutting out a pattern on a product with strokes. In jewelry practice, manual two-dimensional (planar) engraving is used - a complex and time-consuming process that requires great skill, endurance and concentration from the performer.

Enameled - one of the types of decorative processing of jewelry. Enamel is an easily fusible glass of complex composition, intended for fusing onto metal. The complex composition of enamel is necessary for the strength of fusion with metal. According to the chemical composition of the enamel, they are salts of silicic acid, and the components of the alloy are oxides of lead, silicon, potassium, barium, sodium, antimony, and oxides of coloring metals. The color of enamels is the most diverse and is achieved by introducing appropriate dyes into the alloy. There are enamels applied to products by firing.

Blackening - as one of the types of decorative processing of jewelry has been used for a long time. Products with niello found on the territory of our country. The essence of the blackening process is to apply a low-melting alloy of black color - black - to the specified areas of the product. Silver jewelry is decorated with niello. Niello is an alloy of silver, copper, lead and sulfur sulfides. In some recipes, lead can be replaced with tin and borax, aluminum chloride, bismuth can be added to the alloy.

Oxidation of jewelry is designed to protect it from tarnishing. The essence of the oxidation process is the deposition of a chemically resistant protective film on the surface of products, which makes it possible to increase their decorative qualities and corrosion resistance. Oxidation is carried out in two ways: chemical and electrochemical. A distinction is made between color oxidation and colorless passivation.

Electroplating - the process is the deposition of one metal on another in an electrolyte environment. In the jewelry industry, gold, silver, and less often radium are used as electroplating coatings. The purpose of such coatings is to give products a certain decorative appearance, to improve their mechanical characteristics. The processes of gilding and silvering have been known for a long time, and radiation has been used in recent years.

Coatings obtained in the galvanization process are characterized by high strength, and the process itself is economical. Salt and acid solutions are used as electrolytes during galvanization.

Finishing of jewelry and art products is carried out to improve their decorative properties, increase corrosion resistance, and durability. Finishing as the final operation in the manufacture of products is preceded by the processing of parts: tumbling, brushing, grinding, heat treatment, etching, vibration treatment, etc.

Processing is carried out using special tools, machines, materials that allow you to effectively and efficiently prepare the surface of products for artistic decoration. Machining parts in rotating drums, grinding with abrasive wheels or sandpaper, polishing using various pastes have long been used in the jewelry industry. Recently, new technological processes are being used. So, along with traditional processing methods, a number of enterprises have introduced vibration processing for grinding and polishing the surface of products in toroidal-type vibrating drums. The units ensure the quality of processing of products in the operations of grinding and polishing and eliminate the disadvantages inherent in the methods of manual processing and tumbling.

To protect against corrosion, improve the decorative appearance, the finished products are subjected to a final artistic finish: grinding with polishing, gilding, silvering, chrome plating, bluing, anodizing, varnishing. Polishing is carried out mechanically, less often chemically or electrochemically. Products after polishing acquire a mirror shine. Anodizing and burnishing are carried out to obtain a stable oxide film with a wide color gamut on the surface. Chrome plating, copper plating, gilding, silver plating are the processes of applying a decorative and corrosion-resistant coating by chemical or electrochemical methods.

For decorative purposes, the following types of finishes are used: graining, matting, enamel (finift), painting on enamel, embossing, engraving, knurling, notching, niello, etching. All of these types of finishes are applicable to products that differ both in the type of metal and alloy, and in the method of their manufacture.

Products made of copper alloys, made by precision investment casting, do not require significant costs for processing and surface finishing. The main types of artistic finishes can be limited to a few: polishing, brightening annealing, electroplating, oxide and varnish coatings.

To obtain corrosion-resistant protective and decorative coatings on products made of nickel silver and brass, galvanic silvering is used. This is especially important in cases where it is necessary to obtain surfaces with high corrosion resistance. Varnishing may be necessary to prevent small amounts of copper from dissolving from the surface of products or to maintain a high quality finish (including silver plating). Along with other types of finishes, the oxidation of the surface of jewelry and art products from nickel silver, brass, and bronze is widely used (Fig. 90).

When obtaining protective coatings, increased requirements are imposed on preparatory operations using mechanical and chemical (electrochemical) methods of surface treatment of products. The surface roughness on which the protective and decorative coating is applied must correspond to R Z >2.5 µm. To obtain a surface of the required quality, along with tumbling in the jewelry industry, vibration processing of parts and products using surfactants in a solution is widely used. Before the final process of obtaining a protective coating on products made of copper alloys, operations of degreasing, etching and activation are carried out.

Degreasing is carried out both in alkaline solutions and in solutions of special surfactants, as well as alkaline solutions with the addition of surfactants. The highest degree of surface cleaning is provided by electrochemical degreasing. For electrochemical degreasing, the same substances are used as for chemical degreasing, only in lower concentrations. For copper alloys during electrochemical degreasing, the following solution is used, g / l: caustic soda 30 ... 40, trisodium phosphate 50 ... 60, sodium carbonate 20 ... 30, liquid glass 8 ... 10, sintanol DS - 10 1 ...2. Cathodic degreasing. The current density is 3 ... 10 A / dm 2, temperature 50 ... 60 °C.

*1 (Laundry soap.)

*2 (sodium methyl silicate.)

*3 (sodium tripolyphosphate.)

For chemical degreasing in table. 38 shows options for electrolytes (solutions), as well as processing modes for copper alloys of various compositions.

In addition to electrochemical and chemical degreasing, it is also effective to use solutions for ultrasonic cleaning (degreasing) of copper and brass composition, g / l: caustic soda 5 ... 10, sodium carbonate 15 ... 30, trisodium phosphate 30 ... 60, detergent "Progress" 5...7.

Etching - removal from the surface of oxides: scale and corrosion products of the metals that make up the alloy. Currently, the combined process of degreasing with etching in special solutions is widely used.

For chemical etching of copper alloys, a solution of sulfuric acid with a concentration of 130 ... 170 g / l is used. Process temperature 50...60 °C, duration 3...5 min. During chemical etching, metal oxides dissolve in sulfuric acid according to the reaction: MeO + H 2 SO 4 \u003d MeSO 4 + H 2 O, where Me is a divalent metal ion, such as copper or zinc.

Copper alloys with a small oxide layer are etched in sulfuric acid. So, lead brass LC59 -1, brass L68 and L63 are etched in 15% H 2 SO 4 at a temperature of 70 ... 80 ° C for 0.5 ... 2; 0.5 and 1 s, respectively.

Activation (decapitation) - removal from the surface of oxides - the thinnest oxide films that form on the surface even during short storage. To activate products made of copper and copper-nickel alloys, a 5 ... 10% solution of sulfuric or hydrochloric acids, or their mixture of the same concentration, is used.

Washing operations are of great importance for the quality of coatings. Purpose of washings - removal from a surface of products of solutions and products of reactions. Poor washing leads to the formation of coating defects.

Jewelry finishing is the final surface treatment, bringing them to the state of presentation. Finishing operations can be classified into three types:

mechanical finishing - polishing, texturing, chasing, engraving;

decorative and protective coatings - enamelling, blackening;

chemical treatment - oxidation and electroplating.

Polishing.

The essence of the polishing process is to remove microroughnesses from the metal surface, which achieves a high class of cleanliness and surface specularity. Polishing is one of the finishing processes for processing products, but not always the last. Jewelry can be polished before being oxidized, before being plated with a layer of another metal. If the products after assembly cannot be polished as a whole, some parts of them are polished during the assembly process. Two types of jewelry polishing are mainly used: mechanical and electrochemical. Mechanical is called piece by piece

polishing products with and without abrasive. Mass polishing methods - in drums and containers, despite the fact that they are actually also mechanical, are called tumbling and vibration processing.

Electrochemical polishing is the anodic etching of products in an electrolyte environment under the action of an electric current, i.e., the reverse process of gilding and silvering.

mechanical polishing. Mechanical abrasive polishing

carried out on polishing machines using elastic circles and brushes with abrasive pastes, and non-abrasive - manually, with special polishing. For abrasive polishing of jewelry, one-spindle and two-spindle machines are used, equipped with nozzles for attaching a polishing tool and exhaust devices with waste collectors for the subsequent extraction of precious metals.

Tools for mechanical polishing are elastic circles and brushes. Wheel materials must hold abrasive pastes well on the surface and be durable in operation. The purpose of a polishing tool depends on the material from which it is made and its shape.

Filigree.

In the manufacture of jewelry, a special place is occupied by the filigree or filigree technique (from the old Russian ekat - twist), which consists in the formation of complex lace patterns by hand from different lengths of thin wire segments, smooth or twisted, round or flat. The elements of the filigree pattern are very diverse: in the form of a rope, lace, weaving, herringbone, paths, smooth surface, etc. The individual elements of the filigree are connected into a single whole by soldering. Often, filigree is combined with grain, which is small metal balls that are soldered into pre-prepared cells (recesses). The grain creates an effective texture, a play of light and shade, thanks to which the products acquire a particularly elegant, sophisticated look.

The materials for filigree products are alloys of gold, silver and platinum, as well as copper, brass, cupronickel, nickel silver. Jewelry made in the filigree technique or with filigree elements is very often (in order to ennoble their appearance) oxidized and silvered. Often, filigree is combined with enamel (including enamel), engraving, and embossing. Filigree technique can be used to make all types of jewelry without exception.

Distinguish filigree openwork and background or soldered.

Openwork filigree is a kind of lace pattern with a pattern that is visible through and through. Filigree, soldered on a specially prepared background, solid (deaf filigree) or filigree (openwork), is called background. Both openwork and background filigree are flat and voluminous. An example of openwork filigree can be flat brooches, an example of background filigree is pendants, earrings of conical and cylindrical shapes. Elements of openwork and background filigree are very diverse and numerous in form, size, and name.

Surface - round wire of various (specified) lengths and a cross section of 0.2 to 1.3 mm; a wire flattened laterally is called a flat surface.

Rope - a flagellum twisted from two wires of any section, often rolled (flat rope); the granular surface formed on the ribs of a flat rope allows you to create the effect of a special beauty of the granular pattern in the decoration.

Cord (lace) - an element twisted from two, three, four wires or two ropes, or ropes and wire.

Braid - a kind of pigtail, woven from three or more wires; often used as a side rim of flat filigree jewelry.

Herringbone - two nearby ropes with a spiral directed in different directions, with a slight or complex bend.

Round track - a slightly stretched spiral from a round smooth surface of a small section; often used to highlight individual ornaments from a common pattern. art processing metal jewelry

A crumpled and flattened track is an element in the form of a fallen or flattened spiral, the rings of which, leaning one on top of the other, partially cover each other.

A zigzag path is a jagged path made of a flat surface, a round and flat rope, or a snake made of a flat or round rope; used as intermediate elements of openwork filigree, as well as in the manufacture of background filigree with an openwork background.

Grain - small metal balls.

Ring - a ring made of flat and round smooth surface, round or flat rope; it is mainly used to set the background of the background filigree and as an integral part of other elements.

Half ring - part of the ring; used as an independent element for background filigree background set and as an integral part of other elements.

Cucumber - an element in the form of a cucumber, made from a flat or round rope.

Pear - an element resembling a drop in shape, made of a flat or round rope.

Petal - made of a flat or round rope or a flat surface, an element in the form of a chamomile petal.

A tee is a trefoil made of a flat or round rope or a flat surface.

The head is an element in the form of an inverted comma, made from a flat, less often from a round rope.

Grass - made of a flat smooth surface or a flat round rope, curling in one direction with a flat spiral.

Curl - recruited from a flat surface, flat or round rope, an element in the form of a bow with ends bent inward to form rings.

Leaf - from a flat rope, a flat spiral crumpled from the sides in the form of a leaf.

A perm is a trefoil, soldered from three leaves of various shapes.

A bug is a ring made of a round track (spiral) with a grain in the center.

The rosette is a spiral ring made of a crumpled track, turned into a spherical concave cup with a grain inside.

Invoicing.

The textured surface of jewelry began to be called a surface that is different from polished, pleasant to look at, bearing a decorative load. The surface texture can be different - small-pitted, small-stroke, matte, etc. The effect of combined texture processing with gloss is most often used. Areas of a textured surface can be obtained: using the casting skin of products obtained by casting (by molding a suitably prepared product); using a stamped surface (after sandblasting the working surface of the stamp); etching in various acid compositions, obtaining different shades and texture of the oxidized surface; mechanical matting (with a burr, ground pumice, brushing), etc. The textured surface serves as a background for manual and diamond engraving, highlighting a relief image, areas with

glossy contour, as well as for internal hard-to-reach surfaces of the back of jewelry.

Brushing is a very old and common way of obtaining a textured surface. On silverware, brushing is often the final treatment. The surface is brushed on polishing machines with wire brushes (circles like hair brushes). The wire on the brushes is steel or bronze, even or wavy, different in cross section and length. As a rule, the wire cross section is limited to the range 0.08...

0.15 mm, and the diameter of the circle is 70 ... 150 mm. The brushing operation is also carried out at the intermediate stages of manufacturing and processing products - to remove oxidation in hard-to-reach places before tumbling, coatings, etc.

Chasing is a type of artistic processing of metals with special punches - embossing, as a result of which the workpiece takes on a relief image. The essence of the chasing process lies in the fact that as a result of the pressure exerted on the chasing (by hammer blow), a trace remains on the metal according to the shape of the working part of the chasing. By repeated blows of various coinage, a given pattern is knocked out. Distinguish between hand and machine chasing. Chasing is considered manual if the process of punching the image is done manually.

Machine chasing is a stamping operation performed on presses using dies. Modern equipment makes it possible to obtain a high quality image, so stamping has greatly reduced the use of hand chasing in the manufacture of jewelry. And chasing should be considered not as a type of decoration, but as an independent type of manufacturing products, which occupies a large place in the art industry. Sheet metal with good ductility is used as a material for embossing. These are gold, silver, copper and its alloys (tompac, cupronickel), aluminum. More often than others, copper and tompak are used, which have excellent decorative qualities, the ability to take on chemical and electrochemical coloring, acquiring high anti-corrosion properties. The plasticity of these materials allows deep drawing of the relief. The thickness of the workpiece is determined by the dimensions of the chased product. For small-sized products, sheets with a thickness of 0.3 .. "0.8 mm are used.

The main tools for chasing are chasing and hammers.

Chasing is a steel rod, usually faceted, 90 ... 120 mm long for small forms. The cross section of the coin should be variable. In its middle part, a thickening is left for stability and vibration damping during impact. The working end of the coinage is hardened. Its other end, which serves for striking, is also slightly heated up, without, however, giving it

loosen, which saves the length of the coinage. Not hardened at all

only the middle part remains - this dampens the vibration. The chasings are made from steel rods of the U7 and U8 grades, then they are processed (on an emery sharpener or manually) so that the longitudinal axis of the chasing passes strictly through the center: this ensures the stability of the chasing during impact. When processing the coinage, its faces are preserved, most often four. The strikers differ in the shape of the working part (beat), which depends on the purpose of the instrument. There are many varieties of coinage, but in addition to this, each coiner also uses sets of coinage of the same variety, which differ from each other.

from each other by the size and pattern of the battle, the curvature of the bulge, the state of the surface, etc. The main types of coinage have their own names. Below are their brief characteristics.

Kanfarniki - a form of battle in the form of a blunt needle, leave a dotted mark. They are used to transfer a pattern to metal by embossing the image along the contour, as well as to finish the background with dots. The smaller the size of the product, the sharper the strike of the coinage is chosen.

Consumables - a linear form of combat, resembling a screwdriver blade. Necessary for embossing a solid line. With curved lines, chisels with a curved chime are used. Consumables outline the image on the metal at the points of the kanfarnik. The length and curvature of the fight is chosen depending on the size of the pattern.

Horsemen - have a flat fight of various forms. Apply

for leveling planes, raising or lowering flat areas of the image. The difference in the forms of battle is due to the nature of the pattern, in particular, the contour line of the flat area. The surface treatment of these embossments is also different. To obtain a brilliant trace, polished polishers are used, for a matte finish, polishers with varying degrees of

the roughness of the battle.

Purushniki - the shape of the fight is round with a bulge, the size and bulge of which is different. Puroshniki provide a deep drawing of the relief and obtaining a pitted texture.

Boboshniki - the shape of the battle is convex oval. They serve, like fur coaters, for relief drawing.

Tubes - the shape of the battle is round concave, spherical recesses of different sizes. Unlike puroshniki with a pitted trace, the tubules leave a convex trace, deepening the contour of the bulge.

Textured - coinage, on the battle plane of which a notch is applied. The notch can be striped, checkered, dashed, etc. They are used to finish a stamped image or background.

Special - embossings that have a pattern or a fragment of a pattern on the surface of the battle for repeated repetition on the product. It can be a leaf, a flower, an element of an ornament, a rope, a cord, etc. The hammers used for chasing have a round or square striker, the surface of the striker is flat. The toe of the hammer (the opposite part of the striker) is made spherical, of various diameters. The spherical part of the hammer serves to lift the relief without the use of a chisel. The shape of the hammer handle is also unusual - it is bent down towards the striker and thickened, this allows you to strike a certain force for a long time.

As devices for chasing, playing the role of lining

matrices, use soft metals or specially welded resins.

Engraving.

Engraving is a type of artistic processing of a product, which consists in cutting a pattern on a product with chisels. In jewelry practice, manual two-dimensional (planar) engraving is used, in a different way - engraving for the sake of appearance. Manual engraving is a complex and time-consuming process that requires great skill, endurance and concentration from the performer. Jewelry engraving is done at the jewelry and engraving workbenches. The main range of engraving works that are performed on jewelry: making monograms on the platforms of rings and pendants; cutting sites (applying a pattern, contour, background); engraving on the lining of the rings; engraving of the side surfaces of seals; applying an engraving pattern to wedding rings, “snake” rings, etc. All these works can be done at a jewelry workbench (as most jewelers do), using hand-held wooden vices or wooden fastening washers for grinding products, relying on fiagel. But it is much more convenient to engrave behind an engraving workbench or on an attachment to a jewelry workbench, using the flat surface of the tabletop as a support platform. The height of the engraving section should be within 70...75 cm. various devices for fixing the product and turning it at the required angle. The following devices can be used as such devices: manual wooden vices, fixing washers, table clamps, ball vise, engraving pads.

Wooden vices (manual) - vices with different shapes of jaws, the same as for setting stones. They are used for engraving rings behind a jewelry workbench supported by fiyagel.

Mounting washers - made from viscous wood. Serve to strengthen flat products, earrings, brooches, pendants, etc. The horizontal dimensions of the washers are 50 ... 80 mm, the thickness is 20 ... 25 mm. Mounting washers can be flat and convex with recesses and slots for the back of the product. The fixing of products on the fixing washer is carried out by grinding the product on sealing wax or kitt. The washer is covered with a fixative in advance, and the product is ground by heating it with a contact soldering iron. The fixing washer is used both behind a jewelry workbench, leaning on fine gel, and behind an engraving one, leaning on an engraving pad.

Table clamp - made of hardwood and consists of two rectangular bars, pulled together in parallel by long bolts. The dimensions of the bars (jaws) are 40X40X120 mm, the divergence of the jaws is 50 ... 60 mm. The clamp is used with support on the engraving pad and serves to clamp rings, thick plates, medals, spoons, etc. into it.

Ball vice - are a wooden (or metal with wooden jaws) ball with parallel diverging jaws in the upper hemisphere. Ball diameter 70...90 mm, divergence of jaws 25...30 mm. Ball vise for engraving rings supported by an engraving annular (with a hole in the middle) cushion. The maneuverability of the ball vice allows you to quickly and smoothly change the position of the product in relation to the engraver. In addition, the vise jaws are convex at the top, leaving a large workable area. There are also metal ball fixtures with expanding collets to hold the rings during the engraving process.

Enameling.

Enameling is a type of decorative finish associated with coating sections of the product with a low-melting vitreous mass. In the manufacture of jewelry made of precious metals, hot enamels are used, i.e. those that are applied by firing. In addition to decorative qualities, enamel has excellent protective properties due to resistance to chemicals. According to the chemical composition, these are salts of silicic acid (lead-silicate glass), colored with molecular or colloidal dyes. The color of enamels can be very different. Colored enamels can be transparent and opaque (deaf). The opacity of enamels is achieved by introducing into the composition of the alloy tin oxide, arsenic (III) oxide, phosphoric acid and other substances that dampen transparency. Enamels are classified according to the technological and design features of products that hold the enamel on the surface. They are divided into notched, cloisonne, window and picturesque. In the jewelry industry, champlevé and cloisonné enamels are currently widely used. Notched enamels are those for which recesses (notches) are made in the products, made by engraving technique, stamping or embossing. Recesses are made to a depth of 0.3 ... 0.5 mm. The walls of the recess should be vertical, and preferably with an undercut, then the enamel coating is firmly held on the metal. When covering large surfaces with transparent enamel, the area (the surface to be coated) is cut with a chisel with a certain relief pattern. Under opaque enamels, the platform is matted or a notch is made on it with a chisel to form a rough surface. This state of the site contributes to a better adhesion of the enamel to the metal.

Cloisonne enamels are enamels that fill the recesses between the partitions, made of rolled wire or filigree, soldered to the base. That part of the product, which is intended for enameling, is made in the form of a low box, open at the top; partitions, as a rule, create a certain pattern. The height of the partitions and the side is about 0.8 ... 1.0 mm. The soldering of partitions should be carried out only with high-temperature solders having a melting point higher than the melting point of the enamel.

Window, or transparent, enamels are enamel

tightening through holes with transparent colored enamels. Items for window enamel should have an openwork pattern (pattern) carved in metal or made with filigree technique, the holes of which are filled with colored transparent enamel. This work requires great skill from the enameller.

Painted enamels - miniature enamel painting on enameled items covered with enamel. This is the most time-consuming and painstaking type of enamelling, requiring not only skill, but also great artistic abilities from the performer. The base, completely covered with enamel, on which the painting is made, is made of copper, silver and gold and can have any shape. This type of enameling is distinguished by a wide variety of enamels, different both in color and in melting point. Before proceeding with enameling, the enamel is prepared for application. Even in one piece or tile, the enamel can be heterogeneous. Therefore, tiles or large pieces are pricked before grinding and areas of the same transparency and color are selected, without turbidity and pollution. The selected pieces are crushed with a steel pestle in a steel mortar until very fine crumbs are formed. The crumb is carefully magnetized and ground with water in a porcelain or agate mortar with the same pestle until a homogeneous slurry is formed. It is very important that the grain size of the slurry is the same. The dust formed as a result of crushing is removed by repeated washing of the crushed enamel in water and drained in the form of turbidity. The slurry cleared of dust-like particles is considered suitable for application. To avoid contamination during enamel work, the enamel is filled with water and thus preserved. Before applying the enamel, excess water is drained. All work on the preparation of the enamel should be carried out in perfectly clean conditions, since the ingress of dust and dirt into the enamel will give marriage - dark spots.

Blackening.

Blackening - a type of decorative finish, consisting in the imposition

on the surface of black fusible alloy products (niello). Silver jewelry is decorated with niello. Black fits well on copper alloys. Mandatory components of the black alloy are silver, copper, lead and sulfur. In some recipes, lead can be replaced with tin and borax, ammonium chloride, and bismuth can be added to the alloy. Niello is prepared from copper, silver and lead sulfides. To obtain copper sulfide, 76.2% of copper chips and 23.8% of sulfur are taken; silver sulfide - 84.5% silver chips and 15.5% sulfur; lead sulfide - 83.7% lead shavings and 16.3% sulfur. Each composition in a separate crucible is placed in a cold oven and heated together with the oven to 350 °C. After holding for 2.5...3 hours, the crucibles are taken out and cast into ingots. Crushed sulfides are the basis for the compilation of niello. One of the optimal compositions has the following ratio: 46.66% copper sulfide, 11.12% silver sulfide, 42.22% lead sulfide. Powders of sulfides mixed in a certain proportion in a crucible are placed in a furnace and heated to a temperature of 650 ° C. During melting, ammonia is added to the mixture at the rate of 28.5% of the total mass, with periodic stirring of the melt. Then the melt is poured into a mold heated to 300°C and held until cooled. The resulting alloy is crushed. Niello is applied to a product prepared for niello, i.e. with an in-depth engraved pattern. The engraved pattern is made without gloss for better adhesion of the niello to the base metal. The depth of the pattern is within 0.2 ... 0.3 mm (depending on the size of the product and the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe recess). The surface of the product, which is not covered with black, must be polished without scratches, scratches and other defects. Finely ground black powder is diluted with a solution of borax, potash and common salt to a creamy state. The prepared slurry is applied to the areas to be blackened. The product is pre-degreased. The gruel is leveled on the surface of the product so that all the recesses are filled, then moisture is removed from it with filter paper or cotton wool. The black that has fallen into places that are not subject to blackening is carefully removed, and the entire product is dried. After that, the product is fired in a furnace at a temperature of 300 ... 400 ° C until the niello is completely melted. The cooled coating may have sagging and unevenness, so the product is subjected to mechanical processing. Depending on the condition of the coating, the product is filed or scraped. For filing, use small needle files or files. The rough coating is processed carefully, without disturbing the pattern and surface configuration. Followed by

polishing, and the black acquires its characteristic luster and shade.

Galvanic coatings.

Galvanization is the process of deposition of one metal on another in an electrolyte environment. In the jewelry industry, galvanization is widely used to cover products with a layer of gold and silver. Gilding and silvering of jewelry is used for decorative purposes and to increase wear resistance and chemical resistance of products. Coatings obtained by galvanization are highly durable,

and the process itself is economical. Electrolytes are aqueous solutions of salts and acids. The essence of electrolytic metal deposition is as follows. Salt molecules dissolved in water break down into positive and negative ions. Hydrogen and metal ions are positive, and acid and water residues are negative. When a constant electric current is passed through a solution, positively charged ions tend to the negative electrode, and negatively charged ions tend to the positive electrode. The positive electrode is called the anode, and the negative electrode is called the cathode. Since the metal ions are positive and tend to the cathode, the coated articles are used as the cathode, while the plate of metal with which the articles are coated serves as the anode. In all galvanic processes, baths made of acid-resistant materials (glass, vinyl plastic, Teflon) are used. Each coating has its own electrolysis mode,

on which the thickness and quality of the coating depend.

Gilding. Gold plating is applied to jewelry, both from base metals, and from silver and gold. With a properly selected gilding mode, a 2 µm thick coating provides products with an even, dense, non-porous and wear-resistant layer of gold. The hardness of the coating exceeds the hardness of cast gold by more than twice. Gilding of gold items is carried out in order to restore old jewelry, as well as to give a good presentation to some new ones, such as chains. Such a coating is called the highlighting of the product.

The main range of products subjected to gilding, from silver and copper alloys. The surface of products subjected to gilding must be uniform in color, without traces of scale, burrs, delaminations, dents, scratches, dull spots, etc.

Do you carry flyers? And cuffs made of silver with rhodium? What do a Russian beauty in a kokoshnik and a Russian hallmark have in common? Interesting? Then let's turn to a small jewelry glossary. We will not go into the semantics of highly specialized terms, but from now on we will read jewelry tags without the help of a third-party “translator”.

Anklet (ankle bracelet) - a bracelet on the leg in the form of a thin chain.

Antique (antique) - a type of ancient gemstone cutting: it is given a square or rectangular shape with convex sides and rounded edges. At the same time, the girdle, or narrow belt between the upper and lower parts (“crown” and “pavilion”, respectively) of a faceted stone, is distinguished by the shape of a “cushion” (“pillow”).

Guilloche is the name of an engraved geometric pattern made on metal and covered with transparent enamel.

Glider (or glider bracelet) - the name of the watch bracelet element; thin elongated link. Glider bracelet - a "chain" of links fastened with hinges or a spring.

Engraving - decorative processing of jewelry; mechanical or manual way of cutting out a pattern or ornament.

Pearl cult. - cultured (artificially grown) pearls, produced by placing an artificial core (a piece of mother-of-pearl or a mantle) into the shell of a mollusk.

Freshwater pearls are pearls of river and lake mollusks.

Cabochon is a type of stone processing that involves a convex shape without facets.

Cameo is the name of a decorative element of jewelry with artistic carving, for the manufacture of which a stone, coral or shell with a three-dimensional (figured) image is traditionally used.

Carat is a unit of mass (weight) of precious stones. A metric carat is equal to 200 mg, British - 205 mg.

Cuffs, cuffs - (English caff - “cuffs”) - an ornament for the ears, which, unlike the usual earrings, can be located not only on the lobe, but also on other parts of the ear.

Marquis - the name of the method of cutting a stone, which receives an oval shape ("boat" or "spindle") and tapering angular ends.

Studs ("carnations") - small earrings attached to the earlobe by means of a pin.

Rhodium plating is the name of the method of coating a product with a thin layer of rhodium (0.1-25 microns) in order to improve the protective and decorative properties (allows you to increase their reflectivity, corrosion resistance, heat resistance, and ensure the constancy of contact electrical conductivity).

Russian assay mark - a mark on a product made of precious metals (or alloys), which is put by the State Inspectorate of Assay Supervision. It is the following image: a female head in a kokoshnik and numbers showing how many grams of the precious metal are contained in 1 kg of this alloy.

Trillion is a wedge type of stone cut, implying a triangular shape.

Filigree is the name of the technique of decorative processing of jewelry, which allows you to create complex lace patterns from various types of the finest wire.

Chasing is a manual or mechanized process of creating a relief image. To obtain an image, stamps or a hammer are used.

Blackening is the application of black to a piece of jewelry, which is a low-melting black alloy. Used to enhance the contrast of an image or give a vintage look to a piece of jewelry.

Fianite - the name is formed by the abbreviation FIAN - Physical Institute of the USSR Academy of Sciences. It was there that scientists managed to obtain a modification of zirconium and hafnium oxide - a high-quality synthesized stone that can have different colors. Outwardly cubic zirconia is closest to a diamond.