Pattern of a military tunic for a girl of 2 years. Children's gymnast, military uniform. Required materials and tools

Master class for the site "Casket" was prepared by Olga Martynenko

For work, I needed 0.8 m of fabric. Green calico fabric was used. Size 98 and hidden zipper.

I modified the original model. The sleeve from the pattern did not suit me, but it was replaced with a sleeve from another model. From this one:

To begin with, we lay out the pattern on the fabric, circle it, and make 0.7 cm seam allowances, 2 cm along the bottom of the dress and sleeves and cut it out.

1. Stitch shoulder seams. Sweep. Iron out.

2. Stitch the top and bottom collar. Turn out. Iron.

3. Stitch the collar into the neck. Overcast the bottom collar.

4. Attach the prepared bar to the shelf, along the marked lines.

5. Stitch the back and shelf. Sweep. Iron on a shelf.

6. Stitch the front of the skirt with the back of the skirt. Sweep. Iron on the front of the skirt.

7. Stitch the top of the dress with the skirt. Sweep.

8. We sew the lock to the back, pre-overcast the seam. To do this, use the foot for hidden locks.

9. We sew two halves of the back of the skirt. We iron out.

10. Overcast the bottom of the dress. Bend and lay a line.

11. Sew the bottom collar to the neck in the seam.

12. Stitch the sleeve together. Sweep. Iron out.

13. Overcast the bottom of the sleeve. Bend and lay a line.

14. Stitch the sleeve into the armhole. Sweep.

This is what the dress looks like from the inside. All seams are overcast.

Dress front

Dress on the back.

15. Sew on buttons.

And you can also make a dress with a front strap, but without a lock on the back, from this pattern. But this is more suitable for thin people.

Several ways to build a pattern of a soldier's tunic for a child and a detailed process of sewing it.

This year, the whole country is actively preparing for the Victory Day. In kindergartens and schools, children are told about the war and the significance of victory for the whole people. We will definitely go to the parade on May 9 and congratulate the veterans. We also decided to arrange a thematic photo shoot with the children, so we needed a soldier's tunic as an element of a military uniform.

A step-by-step master class on how to sew a children's tunic with your own hands with photos.

For sewing a military tunic you will need:

1m thick fabric(I have a batiste)

6 buttons with a star (can be purchased at the army store)

2 simple buttons for shoulder straps

Construction of a gymnast pattern.

There are some simple ways make a pattern of a children's gymnast.

- based shirt, which fits the size. You just need to take all the details from the finished product. You will only have to carve out decorative elements such as shoulder straps and a pocket flap. How to re-cut the pattern from the finished product without tearing it

If there is no suitable shirt, then you can do without T-shirt. But keep in mind that the T-shirt is knitted and stretches well, and the fabric for the tunic is not so elastic, so you need to add a couple of cm in width.

By finished pattern . To simplify the construction of a tunic pattern, there is a pattern for a height of 95 and 110 cm.

Below shows additional details of the flap on the pocket and shoulder straps.

Sewing a military tunic for a child.

We cut out a rectangle of 12 * 3 cm in size from paper. We apply it to the middle of the front and circle it. We do not throw away the strip of paper itself.

Cut in the center and to the corners as shown in the photo.

We make strips for the collar, for this we cut out two strips of fabric measuring 16 * 7 and bend as shown in the photo. For easier bending, we use a rectangle that has already been cut out of paper.

We make two strips of the same size.

We pin the straps to the gymnast on both sides exactly along the drawn lines, leaving 3.5 cm below for the hem.

Check that the planks are evenly spaced and the bottom one is completely covered by the top one.

Sew on the sewing machine. You can see that there is an unused “triangle” in the middle, you don’t need to cut it off.

Bring the ends of both planks forward. Shorten the bottom a little. "Triangle" also bend to the front side. But the photo shows a front and back view.

Beautifully bend the tip, sew along the contour and criss-cross.

Decorative elements for a gymnast.

We will not make pockets, we will only make valves for them.
Cut out a pentagon from the fabric, leaving allowances for the seams. We sew along four sides, then turn it inside out, iron it and sew again along the edges.

In the same way we make shoulder straps.

We mark the places for sewing pockets. First sew upside down, then fold down and stitch again.

We fold the back and in front of the front sides inward and sew along the shoulder seams.

Sew shoulder straps on the front side along the line of the armhole.

We sew the top of the sleeve and slightly gathered it so that it sits better on the shoulder.

We sew the sleeves to the gymnast by matching the centers.

You don’t have to do cuffs on the sleeve, but the tunic looks more spectacular with it, so it’s better to spend half an hour of your time on cuffs.

We make cuffs in the same way as a collar, but we use a paper rectangle 8 * 1 cm.

Sew the strips and match them together.

We bend the tip and sew along the contour.

After sewing in the cuff straps, we sew the tunic along the side seam.

The gymnast must have a stand-up collar. In the original, it is cut out in an arc, but for a product of such small size and not a high stand, you can cut a flat strip. The width of the strip for the collar should be 2 times the desired collar height + 1 cm for the seams. Those if you want a 2.5 cm drain collar. Then the width of the strip should be 6 cm.
Sew on the neckline.

We check that in places of overlap everything converges.

Fold inward and stitch. Stand collar is ready.

In the same way we finish the cuffs with the only difference that we make folds on the cuffs.

The military tunic for the child is ready, it remains only to hem the bottom, make loops and sew on buttons.

So the gymnast will look with a belt. A belt buckle can also be purchased at an army store (price 180r).

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Military children's costumes of past years are quite popular in Lately. This allows us to say that we are sufficiently aware and have an idea about military history of their country.

The demand for military costumes

Very often from kindergarten, children are brought up with patriotic feelings and love for their Motherland. They are told about the times when national heroes lived: Russian heroes, heroes of the First and Second World Wars. Most often, parents are offered to sew military children's costumes from the period of the Great Patriotic War.

When preparing children's matinees, educators look for thematic poetry collections, learn songs of the war years with the kids, sew with the help of mothers and grandmothers the uniform of sailors, infantrymen, tankers, pilots. The military is used to hold costumed holidays dedicated to the Defender's Day and Victory Day. In addition, in many kindergartens and schools, children are engaged in choreographic and theater circles and studios. And in the program of these associations there are literary and musical compositions, choreographic and theatrical performances about the Great Patriotic War.

The study of national history is always beneficial not only for children, but also for adults. It will not be superfluous to once again recall those who conquered the peaceful sky above their heads and the warm sun.

Variety of uniforms

Military children's costumes can be knitted or sewn. Create your own custom pattern. For dancing, you will have to make comfortable uniforms that do not restrict movement. Those who play in military performances, who perform songs on stage should have the form as close as possible to the original.

The military may consist of shorts, caps and a T-shirt or shirt. The fabric needs to be khaki, this will bring the costume closer to the war theme. The kid will be happy to feel involved in people. Boys love to play with toys depicting weapons. They are born fighters and knights. They are warriors ready to help. Therefore, it is better for your child to sew a children's military suit with your own hands.

How to sew? For those who know how to hold a thread with a needle, this will not be difficult. But for those who do not know how to sew at all, I would like to give some advice. Start with a T-shirt. Transfer its size to the fabric, indicating the places where the neck and armpits are located.

Before you start cutting, you should add to the measurement on each side a few centimeters for the seams. Cut and fasten the parts with pins, then using sewing machine, sew everything along the basting seams. The neck will need to be sheathed with a strip of fabric five centimeters wide. All military children's suits can be decorated St. George ribbon, a five-pointed soldier's star, badges and shoulder straps.

Army honors

Children's military can be supplemented with vests. This attribute is appropriate for the form of a sailor, paratrooper and soldier. Any striped fabric will work for this. Shorts, elongated trousers are sewn in the same way. It is easier to sew trousers with an elastic band. Any old pants can act as a template. For tailoring modern style military clothing, it is better to use spotted or khaki fabric. For a male military suit, a cap or cap is a necessary attribute.

You can purchase ready-made options for a headdress in a store and sheathe them, making them look like the original. The gymnast is made from an ordinary children's shirt. Buttons are altered in accordance with the requirements of military uniform paraphernalia, shoulder straps with pockets are sewn on, intercepted with an ordinary belt stylized as a wartime suit.

What can be tied

For craftsmen who know how to knit, we can advise you to make a tanker’s helmet with your own hands, take a paratrooper and a sailor’s peakless cap. Toddlers especially love it when a uniform military headdress flaunts on their heads. The pattern of the peakless cap consists of a band, a bottom and a crown. A strip with a width of 5 centimeters should be cut out of cardboard, tried on on the child’s head, glued with tape.

Draw a large circle on paper, mark the radius equal to the length of the band, divided by two. First, you need to make a headdress blank on paper, then you can transfer all sizes to fabric, or start knitting according to the prepared pattern.

Girls and military uniform

Girls love to flaunt in dresses with military symbols no less than boys. And if you sew a costume of a little sailor, your daughter will be happy. When the kids start learning the sailor dance "Apple", the suit will come in handy. A children's military suit for sailor girls will be appreciated. It will consist of a skirt sewn in a semi-sun or pleated.

To get this main element of the costume, you need to make two measurements: the length of the skirt and the half-circumference of the girl's waist. The fabric should be folded in half, set aside the length of the half-girth from the upper corner and add another 12 centimeters, draw an arc, mark the desired length of the product and draw a line. Make a side seam. Bend the belt and insert the elastic. The bottom of the skirt can be decorated with white ribbons.

The children's military costume for girls has in its set the same headdresses as for boys. The gymnast will look like a boy's. Instead of trousers, a skirt. For the basis of any costume, you can take simple t-shirts and shirts of a suitable color. It is enough to add some attributes of a military uniform: anchor applications, stripes and stars, so that the costume comes in accordance with the theme of the war.

Patriotism in action

You can easily sew a children's military suit, the pattern of which is ready-made. Without such costumed events dedicated to the war and the Great Victory in it, the process of educating patriotism will be incomplete. Children love visuals. So they better comprehend any truth, remember the most important facts. In addition, a suit sewn with your own hands will be original and individual.

There cannot be exactly the same selected fabric in color and texture. One of the parents will prefer to make a sailor suit with a peakless cap. And someone's mother will sew a beret for the baby, adding a magnificent pompom to it. This is possible if the choreographic composition or performance does not require strict prescribed criteria for costumes.

Exact match or creative approach

Any children's clothing should be comfortable. But uniforms require delicate handling. The maximum historical truth is important here, and not just comfort. Do not forget that a child in a wartime costume will go to the parade, will perform on stage. And in the hall or in the veteran ranks there will be those people who wore uniforms throughout the war years. And how could they not know which tunic they tucked in under, how they wore caps or caps.

In this case, you can turn to museum exhibits, historical reference books and try to bring the clothes that the children will demonstrate as close as possible to the originals. This is also important for the younger generation: let them know what the soldier's uniform of the time depicted in the play looked like.

Children need to be taught how to properly wear military clothing. Dignity and careful reverent attitude to military uniform is one of the components patriotic education. If children are taught from an early age to love their country and honor the memory of their ancestors, there is hope that a generation of highly moral, spiritually healthy people will grow up.

Concerts and theatrical performances are held in kindergartens and schools in honor of them. Of course, not only children, but also their parents have to prepare for such things: kids learn poems, songs, dances, and adults take care of the appropriate equipment. Unfortunately, the military uniform for children offered by manufacturers does not always justify the cost and expectations, in addition, there are often difficulties in choosing the right size. Therefore, today we will tell you how to sew a military uniform for children with your own hands.

The upper plain shirt, belted with a belt, with a stand-up collar, two patch pockets on the chest and a front slit covered by a placket - this is what a tunic or earlier “gymnastic shirt” for military personnel looked like. The tunics differed in color and buttons - depending on the type of troops and rank. Also, shoulder straps and a buckle on a belt indicated the rank of a soldier. Like other military clothing, the gymnastic shirt had a simple and functional cut. That is why it will not be difficult to sew a reduced copy of this element of a military uniform, even for those mothers who do not have sewing skills. So, we sew a military uniform for a child according to all the rules on our own.

A real cap with lapels will become the main decoration of the image of a child, and sewing it is as easy as shelling pears. Follow our step by step instructions and you will certainly succeed:

The tunic and cap sewn by us are quite suitable for both a boy and a girl. In turn, you can complete the ceremonial costume of the young princess with a straight skirt, the little defender with breeches. You can sew the missing elements of a military uniform for a child using a regular pattern of trousers or a skirt.

Articles on this topic:

To build a drawing of a tunic pattern, the same measurements are taken as for the men's top shirt, only the sleeve in the tunic is made 2 cm longer (Fig. 1).
SH=19.5 cm O D=48 cm W=19.5 cm
W=19.5cm WI=80cm DR=60cm
We find additional data for the measurements taken from the figure (calculations are made in the same way as for the shirt.)
1. The depth of the back armhole is 24 cm (OG: 3 + 8).
2. The width of the back of the tunic is 21 cm (SHS + 1.5).
3. Armhole width 16 cm (OD: 3).
4. The width of the tunic along the chest line 58 (OG + 10)
5. We place the side seam 4 cm from the back.
6. Sprout width 7 cm (OR: 3+ 0.5).
7. The height of the sprout is equal to the width of the sprout 3, that is, 7: 3 + 2.5 cm.
8. Lower back shoulder 3 cm.
9. The protrusion of the shoulder of the back is 1 cm.
10. Auxiliary point along the armhole of the back from the chest line upwards by 8 cm, that is, 1/3 of the depth of the armhole.
11. Auxiliary line from the corner along the armhole of the back 3 cm.
12. Extension of the side of the back at the bottom line 2 cm.
13. Front neckline depth 8 cm (width + 1)
14. Front neck width 7 cm (width of the sprout).
15. Reducing the depth of the neck 1 cm.
16. Reduced front shoulder 5 cm.
17. Front shoulder less shoulder back by 1 cm.
18. Auxiliary point along the armhole of the shelf from the chest line upwards by 8 cm (1/3 of the depth of the armhole).
19. Auxiliary point from the corner along the armhole of the shelf Z, see
20. Extension of the side of the shelf on the bottom line 4-5 cm.
21. Lengthening the front of the floor 3 cm.
22. Front slit length for stitches 30 cm.
Building a pattern drawing
tailoring of men's tunic

Men's tunic

We build a drawing of a tunic (Fig. 2) according to the grid of the shirt plan (see item 11)
Draw out the back. From point A to the left along the line we set aside the width of the sprout according to the calculation of 7 cm, set the point P, and from it up in a straight line we set aside the height of the sprout 2.5 cm, set the point P1. We connect points P1 and A with a concave line. We get the cut line of the sprout.
From point D down the line, we postpone the decrease in the shoulder of the back 3 cm, set point D1. We connect point P1 with a straight line with point D1, continuing it beyond the line of the back by 1 cm - the protrusion of the shoulder of the back, set point D2. We get the shoulder cut of the back. From the point G1 up along the line, we set aside an auxiliary 8 cm along the armhole of the back, set the point G5. From the point G1 from the corner we set aside the auxiliary along the armhole of the backrest 3 cm, set the point G6. We first connect point D2 with a straight line with point G5, then draw a concave line through point G6 to the middle of the width of the armhole. We get a cutout of the armhole of the back.
From the point H2 to the left along the line we set aside 3 cm, put the point H3. We connect point G4 with point H3. We get a side cut of the back.
We draw a shelf. From the point P down along the line, we set aside the depth of the neck according to the calculation of 8 cm, set the point P2. From the point P to the right along the line, we set aside the width of the front neckline 7 cm, set the point P3. From the point P3 down in a straight line, we postpone the decrease in the depth of the front neck by 1 cm, set the point P4 and connect it with a concave line to the point P2. Get the front neckline.
From the point D1 down the line, we postpone the decrease in the front shoulder by 5 cm, set the point D3. We connect point P4 with a straight line with point D3 and on this line to the right of point P4 we set aside the length of the front shoulder according to the calculation of 15 cm, set point P5. We get the shoulder section of the shelf. From the point G2 up the line, we set aside an auxiliary shelf of 8 cm along the armhole, set the point G7. From the point G2 from the corner, we postpone the auxiliary armhole of the shelf 3 cm, set the point G8. We connect point P5 first with a straight line with point G7, then with a concave line with point G8, continuing the line to the middle of the width of the armhole. We get a cutout of the armhole of the shelf.
Set aside 5 cm from point H2 to the right along the line, put point H4. Point G4 is connected by a straight line with point H4. We get a side cut of the shelf.
From the point H1 down in a straight line, we postpone the lengthening of the front floor by 3 cm, set the point H5 and connect it with a smooth line to the point H4. We get the bottom cut of the shelf.
From point P2 down along the line, we set aside the length of the section of the fastener 30 cm, set point P6. From point G2 to the left along the line we set aside for drawing a pocket Z-5 cm, set point K. From it to the left along the line we set aside the width of the pocket 12 cm, set point K1. Set aside 2 cm from point K up in a straight line, set point K2, from point K1 up in a straight line set aside 1 cm, set point K3. We connect point K2 with a straight line with point K3. We get a pocket cut line. Pockets can be made welt or overhead.
We draw the sleeve of the tunic.
To build a drawing, you must have the following data:
1. Sleeve length according to the measurements 60 cm.
2. The width of the sleeve is: OG: 3 + 6, that is, 48: 3 + 6 = 22 cm, or the width of the back of the shirt in the drawing +1, that is, 21 + 1 = 22 cm.
3. The height of the arm sleeve is equal to the G1Dz line in the drawing of the back, that is, 16 cm.
4. The width of the sleeve at the bottom is: OG: 3 + 3, that is, 48: Z + 3 \u003d 19 cm.
5. Bevel of the bottom of the sleeve 1 cm.
tailoring of men's tunic
We build a rectangle along the width and length of the sleeve 22x60 cm, put points A, B, H, H1. From points A and B down, we set aside the height of the sleeve okon according to the calculation of 16 cm, put points O and O1. We divide the line AB in half at the point O2, connect the point O2 with the point Oz (the middle of the line OO1). From the point O up along the line we set aside 5 cm, put the point O4. We divide the line AO2 in half, put the point O5 and connect it with a straight line to the point O4. We also divide the line O5O4 in half, put the point O6 and connect it with a straight line to the point O2. Then we will connect these same points up one centimeter from the O6O2 line, as shown in Fig. 3. From point B down the line we set aside 5 cm, put point O7. We first connect the point O2 with a straight line with the point O7, and then in the middle of this line, just as on the line O6O2, we raise the straight line up by 1 cm and connect the points O2, O7. Line O4O6O2O7 is a cut of the upper part of the sleeve.
The O4H line is the fold of the front part of the sleeve, divide it in half, find the elbow line, set the point L, draw a straight line from it to the right parallel to OO1, at the intersection with the line O1H1 we set the point L1. From the point H to the right along the line, we set aside the width of the sleeve at the bottom according to the calculation of 19 cm, put the point H2 and connect it with a straight line to the point L1. Line O7O1L1N2 is the elbow seam of the back of the sleeve.
From the point H up along the line, lay off the bottom of the sleeve 2 cm, set the point Hz, connect it with a straight line to the point H2. We get the lower cut of the sleeve.
From the point O7 to the left along the line we set aside 5 cm, put the point O4. We connect it with a straight line with the point Oz. Then we find the middle of this line, put the point O9, and the middle of the line O O3, put the point O10. We connect points O4, O10, O9 and O8 with a concave line (Fig. 3). We get the upper cut of the lower part of the sleeve.
When making a sleeve pattern, we fold the paper in half, the fold of the paper is the AH line. We put on paper all the lines of the drawing. Then we cut the pattern in half, first along the line O4O6O2O7O1L1N2 Nz, and then cut off the top paper along the line O4O10O9O8L2N2 and unfold the pattern.
We draw the cuff of the sleeve.
1. The length of the cuff is OG: 2+4, i.e. 48: 2+4=28 cm.
2. Cuff width 14 cm, finished cuff width 6 cm (Fig. 4)
We draw a stand-up collar.
1. The length of the collar is equal to the OSH full + 6 cm for the entry and seams, that is, 39 + 6 = 45 cm.
2. The width of the cut-out collar is 9 cm, in finished form the width of the collar is 4 cm (Fig. 5).
We draw strips for sealing the front section of the fastener.
1. Top bar length 37 width 8 cm.
men's tunic

Men's tunic

Men's gynasterka

Men's tunic

Men's tunic

Men's tunic

Men's tunic

2. The length of the lower bar, width 32 cm (Fig. 6).
We draw the valve.
1. Valve length 13.5 cm.
2. The width of the middle is 7 cm, the sides are 4-5 cm (Fig. 7).
We draw the facing of the pocket.
Length 16 cm, width 6 cm (Fig. 8).
We draw a burlap pocket.
Length 40 cm, width 16 cm (Fig. 9).
We draw a patch pocket.
1. Length 16 cm.
2. Width at the top 15 cm (Fig. 10), at the bottom 16 cm.
K oy
We fold the fabric in half with the front side inward, then we put the details of the pattern on the fabric and cut it out, making an allowance for seams along the cutout of the neck and armholes, shelves and backs 0.5 cm, along the shoulder and side sections 1.5-2 cm, along the lower cut 2 cm.
In the sleeves, we allow 1 cm along the upper and lower sections, 1.5-2 m along the side sections. We cut out the rest of the details without seam allowance.
As always, cuffs, collar, fastening strips, pocket facings, pocket burlap, patch pockets are cut out so that the shared thread of the fabric runs along the length of the part. Along the width of the part, the share thread passes only in the valves.
Sub-valves are cut out from lining fabric and already valves by 0.2 cm.
Sewing
The tunic should be sewn with a stitched seam. First, we process the shelf. We close the front section of the fastener with slats (the same as in the top men's shirt).
We process patch pockets. We fold the valves with the sub-flaps with the front side inward, sweep and grind 0.5 cm along the side and bottom sections, an easy fit over the valve. We iron the seams, turn the valves right side out, iron them well and make loops in the marked places. We fold the pockets along the upper cut, first by 0.5 cm, then by 1 cm and sew. We bend 1 cm along the side and bottom sections, cut out the excess fabric in the corners and fasten it with hand stitches, iron it well. According to the fold of the middle of the pocket, you can make a bow or counter fold; when opening pockets, this is taken into account and an allowance for folds is made.
We apply the prepared flaps with the front side to the marked places of the pockets on the shelf (also from the front side) with the lower cut of the flaps up, tack and sew 0.5 cm from the edge, then bend the flaps down and sew along the front side along the flaps 0.5 cm from kink edges. We fix the ends. We apply the prepared pockets with the wrong side to the shelf, the upper cut of the pockets should not reach the seam of the flaps by 0.5 cm.
We process welt pockets. We apply the prepared flaps with the front side to the front side of the shelf, with the upper cut of the flap to the upper part of the pocket cut line, we tack, and we apply the pocket facing to the bottom of the pocket cut line. Then, on top of the facing, we apply the burlap of the pocket with one side and all together we outline and stitch with a frame, 0.8-1 cm wide, strictly according to the level of the length of the valve. Then we cut the shelf along the pocket line, cut through all four corners. We fold the burlap and facing inside out. We release the facing into the piping and sew along the edge of the cut from the front side. We fold the cut edge of the facing and stitch it onto the burlap. We bend the burlap so that its cut edge is 2 cm higher than the stitching line of the valve.
We fold the trimmed edge of the valve inside out and sew it along the front side along the seam of the stitching of the valve, together with burlap. Then we grind the trimmed edges of the burlap with a double turning seam. We make fasteners at the ends of the pocket.
We grind the shoulder and side sections, fold the bottom, iron the seams and overcast with a buttonhole seam.
We fold the collar in half with the front side inward, sweep and grind along the side cuts 0.5 cm from the edge, iron the seams and turn the collar right side out. We apply the prepared collar with one side to wrong side tunics, we sweep in, making an easy fit along the neck, we sew it 0.5 cm from the edge. We bend the second cut edge of the collar by 0.5 cm and sew it on the tunic from the front side. Then we sew the entire collar along the edge.
We process the sleeves. We fold the cuffs in half with the front side inward, sweep and sew along the side sections. We iron the seams, turn the cuffs right side out, iron them well again. We grind the sleeves along the seam, leaving them 4-5 centimeters unstitched at the bottom. We fold the cut edges of the seams along the cut and hem with hand stitches, at the end of the cut we make hand bartacks. On the lower cut of the sleeve, we make clips one by one towards the cut.
We apply the cuff with one side to the inside of the sleeve, sew 1 cm from the edge. We fold the cut edge of the cuff and sew it on the sleeve, we sew the cuff around the edge.
We sew the prepared sleeves into the armhole, placing them with the O2 point on the shoulder seam of the tunic, an easy fit along the upper part of the sleeve. If the tunic from wool fabric, then simultaneously with the sleeve, an oblique strip of lining fabric is sewn to seal the seam of the stitching of the sleeve from the wrong side.
On the upper bar along the length (strictly in the center) and on the cuffs, on the upper part, we make loops, then we sew buttons on the lower part.
We iron the finished tunic well.