Categories of cosmetics and perfumes. The smell of the elite What is the middle market in perfumery
I AM Studio is a young and ambitious Russian brand. His universal things fully reveal feminine charm. The success of I AM Studio in the market lies in the cut, the thoughtful silhouette and the unusual combination of fabrics. We talked to the designer of the brand, Dasha Samkovich, and learned a lot about the Russian fashion market. Read more in our interview.
Daria Samkovich, I AM brand designer
You produce designer clothes in the middle up segment, what is this segment?
Brands working in this direction are widely represented in the West, in Russia it was born recently. And I can say not without pride that we were original in the collection in this segment. We were the first to do basic things with a pronounced recognizable design that corresponds to the main trends. We are worn mainly by girls aged 20-35 with above average income, for whom $500 per item is not a problem.
Tell us about the designers who create images for the brand.
I AM Studio is a fashion laboratory where several Russian designers trained in Europe and internships in large Western companies. key point The work of designers is precisely the development of patterns: the fit and wearability of things are of primary importance for the creators of the brand. Therefore, before entering production, each model is tested in the form of 4-5 fittings and adjustments. Impeccable quality is one of those characteristics due to which the brand is known and bought from season to season.
Where do you order fabric and accessories? How do you select materials before placing an order with suppliers?
Absolutely all the "ingredients" for creating collections are purchased from European factories, with the exception of small components, such as lining - they are purchased in Moscow. We select materials according to samples that we order at exhibitions or from representatives of factories. In fact, it is with the choice of materials that the creation of a collection begins, because it is necessary not only to actually decide on the fabric, but also to predict its behavior in the product, as well as take into account the production time and volumes of minimum runs. This is a rather difficult work, often similar to a puzzle.
Do you design accessories and shoes yourself? If so, where and how do you bring ideas to life?
The creation of any item in the I AM Studio collection always starts from scratch. Someone thinks that this very starting point is a sketch. But no. This is a huge layer of work, including the selection of materials, the development of designs, the development of sewing technology, the layout of patterns, the creation of technical documentation for the manufacture of a batch, the change in technology if the factory does not have the necessary equipment, the elimination of defects ... In general, you will not get bored.
What is the final price of a product from your collection?
Fabric, accessories, sewing, model development.
What should be done by those who want to look elegant, stylish and not flashy?
Buy a few total looks from our collection)
How do you find models to shoot? Are these your friends or are you contacting a modeling agency?
We work with agencies that provide us with all the visual material on a turnkey basis. They find models, photographers, a studio and so on.
Your competent positioning has made the campaign one of the most promising projects on the Russian fashion market. Tell us about this positioning? Can you describe the algorithm for implementing your entrepreneurial idea?
The idea is that there are no rules in this business in Russia at the moment. We are essentially reinventing the wheel. If you want to create a fashion brand in Europe, then please contact a consulting agency, and they will find designers for you, and they will prompt you to find distributors at exhibitions, and they will recommend tailoring factories. Plus a nice bonus: there are a lot of personnel on the market - from seamstresses to brand managers. And we have an endless impromptu: the industry is just getting on its feet, there are no fabrics of its own, tailoring factories cannot make high-quality products, they hunt for an intelligent designer like oil top managers, points of sale with the right positioning are also very rare.
Well, as a cherry on the cake, the biased attitude of buyers towards Russian brands. Our success is connected with the enthusiasm that came from nowhere, faith in the idea, faith in our own strength. But no matter what, we manage to do quality product and properly promote it, and it is already beginning to bring tangible results and satisfaction.
You have both a showroom and an online store. What brings in the most income?
Income is generated precisely by the fact that our retail sales are two in one, and an offline showroom and an online platform. Those who want to come for a fitting - please, those who do not have time or do not live in Moscow can order delivery.
All cosmetics and perfumes can be divided into 4 large categories: cosmetics for the masses (mass market), cosmetics and perfumes of the middle class (middle market), middle-up cosmetics (upper middle class) and luxury products (elite cosmetics and perfumery).
Cosmetics and perfumery "Mass-market"
The first category is the so-called cosmetics for the masses. This is the most inexpensive and therefore the most affordable product for most consumers. It can be purchased anywhere: in a huge supermarket, and in the market, and even in a tiny shop in the most remote village. The low price is primarily due to the huge production volumes, as well as the fact that no expensive ingredients, no latest developments and technologies are used in its manufacture. Such cosmetics take care of the skin / nails / hair, but do not solve any specific problems. Products in this category usually do not have division into series for different types skin or, for example, for different types of hair. It's just a shaving cream, face cream or shampoo. Another hallmark this category is the price, which rarely exceeds ten dollars.
Cosmetics and perfumery "Middle-market"
The next category is middle class products. There is a pretty good combination of price and quality. This is a relatively inexpensive category that focuses on the most significant segment of the market - the majority. Cosmetics and perfumes of this particular category are currently the most popular in our country, since not all women can afford to purchase luxury cosmetics, but almost no one dares to use exclusively mass-market products.
It is the products of this category that are most often and fully advertised (and the cost of this advertising, as a result, is included in the cost of the purchased product). You should not expect expensive aromas from this cosmetics, but it will not disappoint you in terms of comfort of use. Shampoos will foam abundantly, and creams will be easily and pleasantly rubbed into the skin. The packaging of these products will literally "asks" to your hands, and the design of the bottles is ideal for any average bathroom. In a nutshell - this is "moderate chic for affordable money." The most famous representatives of this category, presented on Russian market, are AVON, Lisa Dora, L'Oreal, Yves Rocher, VICHY and others.
Cosmetics and perfumery "Middle-up"
Category "Middle-up" is a kind of "golden mean". This is the highest rung of the middle class in cosmetics. The price level of these funds is higher than the standard " middle class", and even more so, it makes no sense to compare these cosmetics with the products of the" mass market ". This category includes such global brands as Naomi, Marina De Bourbone, MEXX, Campbell, Salvador Dali and others. All these companies regularly supply the market with new flavors, innovative products and are in every possible way interested in not losing their customers. Such healthy competition often produces real masterpieces in this price group.
All companies that produce cosmetics (and perfumes) of this level make sure that their products are sold in decent places - beauty salons, specialized or even branded stores. In this category you will not find products designed for the "average" consumer. All funds have a clear division into lines intended for different ages and different skin types, and each such series includes cleansing, moisturizing and nutrients, as well as intensive care products (serums, masks, therapeutic gels, etc.)
There are institutes that for many years work with the same direction of raw materials: it can be certain algae or essential oils. But some researchers have chosen a different path and use mixtures of a variety of active ingredients from different origins in their cosmetics.
Almost all institutions that develop cosmetics in this category also produce the so-called professional series - cosmetics for beauty salons. Some products of professional series can also be purchased at retail, however, in containers of a rather large volume, which is just designed for salons and beauty parlors. But some tools can only be used by specially trained people. For example, some professional masks are mixed from different components immediately before application. Their effects on the skin can be very powerful and effective due to their active acid content. But if used incorrectly, such masks can cause significant damage to your appearance and even health in general. As a rule, beauty institutes have their own schools for the training of their specialists who work specifically with their products.
Luxury cosmetics and perfumery
And, finally, the last and most expensive category is elite perfumes and cosmetics (luxury cosmetics and perfumes).
Such products are expensive. Sometimes it's very expensive. This is explained by the fact that huge funds and scarce resources are spent on its invention and manufacture. In its manufacture, the latest achievements and developments are used. For example, leading Fashion Houses spend years and huge amounts of money to create a rare and memorable fragrance. They experiment with expensive ingredients to make the fragrance really “expensive”, elegant and interesting. But not only high quality is "included" in the cost of the finished luxury product. Those who choose these products also pay for the name, for the brand, as well as for expensive and high-quality packaging, which in itself can already be almost a separate work of art.
To this the highest category include the following brands: Givenchy, Lancome, Clinique, Christian Dior, Chanel, Clarins, Estee Lauder, Helena Rubinstein, Guerlain, Nina Ricci, Versace, Shiseido, Yves Saint Laurent, Sisley and others.
And one of the most necessary and favorite accessories is, of course, a handbag!
I have already told you on what basis I buy for myself and my Clients.
And today I will tell you about the cool bags of the middle and middle up segment. This includes handbags that cost in the region of $100 to $500. Their advantage is that at a low price they are superior in quality to models from the same mass market.
Perhaps I will surprise someone, but among these brands you will find many names of famous designers who are definitely familiar to you.
REBECCA MINKOFF
I have talked about this brand many times before. Today, the brand, based in New York, is popular and recognizable all over the world, and you can meet its bags and clothes even at the stars of the first magnitude on the red carpet.
Many bag models resemble popular it-bags, but they are distinguished by reasonable prices and always retain their author's touches.
Made from quality materials, with beautiful fittings, all products are distinguished by an exquisite design and can be easily combined with everything in the wardrobe. The cost of a handbag is on average from 100 to 500 dollars.
On sales you can buy much cheaper. And if you buy not in Russia, but abroad, then the savings will be simply grandiose. An example of a calculation is in this one, along with instructions on how to buy things in America through intermediary services.
TORY BURCH
These handbags are the standard of symbiosis reasonable price, excellent design and workmanship. The price for a handbag does not exceed $ 500 and is consistent with the quality. It will be most profitable to order such a bag straight from the states through the websites of intermediaries.
LOVE MOSCHINO
The second line of the main Moschino brand.
The bags are very bright and interesting. If you want to stand out from the crowd, take a closer look :-)
Michael Kors
Gorgeous handbags in terms of design, quality, and price.
They have one downside. The brand is so popular in Russia that everyone who is not lazy to fake it.
That is why the MICHAEL KORS bag is easy to find on sale in the market or a tent in the subway.
For the original, go to the official store or order a bag directly from Europe, or it will be more profitable.
And, of course, choose not the most replicated models.
KATE SPADE
Brand designer Kate Spade gained recognition in the fashion community immediately after the release of the first collection.
Today, the Kate Spade New York brand produces not only bags, but also women's clothing, shoes, accessories, perfumes and household goods.
But Kate's main and favorite line of work is still bags. Each new model receives a name, which indicates a special attitude of the designer to his products.
MARC by MARC JACOBS
The second line of the Marc Jacobs brand.
Bags cost around $400-$500, but they are worth it.
The MARK by MARK JACOBS line is youthful and a bit rebellious. Hence the bright colors and non-trivial forms.
DKNY
Colored, practical, basic :-)
COCCINELLE
These bags stand out from the rest with their incredibly neat, small fittings and thin straps. My favorites of them are medium sized bags and crossbody. And, of course, the color scheme is always pleasing.
FURLA
One of the most popular brands of bags in the middle up segment in Russia. True, with the growth of the dollar, bags began to cost noticeably more.
And it became possible to buy them at a price of up to $500 in Russia almost in Stockmann.
Therefore, if you want to please yourself with another favorite Furla, wait for sales or buy abroad.
This season, the brand especially succeeded in the popular cross-body with a thin strap.
3.1 PHILLIP LIM
"Thanks to Phillip Lim, inspiration can not only be felt, but also bought," British Vouge once wrote.
Lim combines rebellious street style with sophisticated haute couture with incredible skill.
About 3.1 PHILLIP LIM, it's safe to say that this is one of the few brands that now dictates American fashion.
Just magic bags from 3.1 PHILLIP LIM deserve special attention. On the one hand - basic, and on the other - archi-stylish. Lim captivates with its shape, color and choice of fittings. You won't find these with any other designer.
Unfortunately, in Russia, these bags are very expensive, but during the sales period on American sites, it is quite possible to successfully hunt!
DIANE VON FURSTENBERG
The woman who gave the world a wrap dress also makes great bags.
Trendsetters attribute Diana more to bohemian chic, but this does not apply to all of her creations.
Having studied the range of bags, you can find quite basic ones for up to $500.
SEE BY CHLOE
Great French brand younger brother luxury Chloe.
Clothing and accessories from See by Chloe are urban style with a touch of elegant innocence.
Brand accessories deserve special attention. Bright and one-color bags, usually with a complex shape, maneuver from casual to boho.
And they are also easy to recognize by the characteristic “rings” that the brand uses in fittings.
ANNE KLEIN
A brand beloved by all ordinary Americans. Fashionable, high quality and inexpensive. Exactly what is needed.
GUESS
Classics of modern basic wardrobe- Guess bags. Despite your simple form, they take color and fittings. By the way, there are really a lot of color options, which cannot but rejoice.
I advise you to pay attention to backpacks from Guess. Laconic form, a minimum of additional accessories and unusual color- what you need for a modern resident of the metropolis.
RED VALENTINO
And another brand has launched a budget line available in the middle price segment.
Bags from Red Valentino are a bit like the creations of the main line.
This is easy to see from the familiar spikes.
This year RED VALENTINO in their collection focused on the hyper-popular cross-body and did not fail. Get cool!
TOMMY HILFIGER
Simple and concise bags from Hilfiger are perfect for sport-chic style, and even jockey style.
Nothing superfluous - a laconic form, a minimum of metal and only a bright color or a geometric print.
DIESEL
Some bags of this brand cannot be called basic.
They oblige to wear a certain style with them, for example, boho or something dramatic, rocker.
If you are a fan of these styles, then go to DIESEL!
BRACCIALINI
Perhaps the most controversial brand of all listed.
Crazy prints and applications BRACCIALINI leave no one indifferent, that's for sure.
You can either love these bags with all your heart, or simply not understand where IT can be entered.
Do you love or don't you understand?
GIANNI CHIARINI
A brand of high-quality bags, which is sold in Russia in most online stores and on multi-brand sites, such as Rendez-Vous.
COACH
Super bright handbags with cool design.
American brand. Founded before the war, born from a family workshop.
Today COACH has its own production: clothes, shoes, watches and, of course, bags.
Life hack: these bags are also more profitable to order directly from the States.
ZAC ZAC POSEN
American designer Zac Posen has his own vision modern fashion which allows him to create his masterpieces. Zach's career began with banal dresses for dolls, and in the end everything turned into the creation of real fashion collections that would bring fame to the young designer at the age of 16.
Today, the Zac Zac Posen brand sews clothes and accessories that even celebrities love.
It is impossible not to pay attention to the bags of the brand. Bright color, unusual shape and decor do not leave indifferent many fashionistas.
Since the brand is from the USA, it will be most profitable to order a bag from there. I advise you to hunt for handbags on sales.
ECONICA
You all know this Russian brand.
In addition to other brands presented in the assortment, recently Econika has been producing bags under its own brand.
In recent years, the brand has updated its style and began to target a younger and more fashionable audience.
Good luck with your shopping, and if you need my help - register on how to choose stylish bag in any price category. As a gift, you will receive two bonus lessons:
- How to choose belts, peplums and belts
- How to choose and what to wear hats
How to understand that you need my lessons? If the amount of unsuccessful purchases exceeds the cost of the lesson (2900 rubles), then you need to upgrade your shopping skills :-)
See you at the School of Shopping, girls!
In addition to the classification of perfumery depending on aromas, there is a universal classification of all cosmetics, including perfumes.
According to the universal classification, perfumes are divided into niche (exclusive), elite, middle-up, middle-market, mass-market. Let's take a closer look at how they differ.
Perfumery mass market
As the name implies, these perfumes are designed for general consumption.
Advantages of mass market perfumery:
- Low cost, and, accordingly, accessibility to every person, regardless of the level of the family budget.
- Large batches of production. If you use mass-market perfumes, you can easily buy it at any time.
Disadvantages of mass market perfumery:
— Use of inexpensive and unstable aromas;
- Lack of sophistication and originality of perfume smells.
Perfumery middle market
Middle-market (or simply middle) category perfumes are designed for people with an average level of income. Undoubted plus perfumery middle market- Affordable cost combined with good quality.
Minus in that in perfumery middle market there is no unique combination of flavors. Manufacturers devote more time and money to marketing research than to innovation in the world of smells . Among the popular brands of perfumes in the middle category are Yves Rocher, Isa Dora, AVON, etc.
Perfumery middle-up (middle-up)
Middle-up perfumery products are called the “golden mean” between luxury class fragrances and middle category fragrances. Middle-up perfumery is very close to the elite category, and practically does not differ from it. Is that inferior in price. In most cases, middle-up perfumes are sold in specialized perfume shops or special departments of supermarkets. Middle-up perfume manufacturers include such well-known brands as Salvador Dali, Naomi Campbell, MEXX.
Elite perfumery (or luxury perfumery)
Elite perfumery, as a rule, is distinguished not only by its exquisite aroma, but also by its beautiful packaging design, as well as a highly advertised brand. Of course, in the manufacture of elite perfumes, only the most expensive, high-quality and natural ingredients are used. Apply latest formulas and flavor combinations. All products are tested for the safety of their components before being put on the market. It is worth noting that when buying luxury products, you also pay for the brand. So the cost compared to the middle market products is much higher. Among the brands that produce luxury perfumes Yves Saint Laurent,Christiandior,lancome,chanel,GeorgeArmani and other world famous brands.
Niche perfumery
Niche (exclusive, selective) perfumery is not advertised on television or in glossy magazines. In general, it is not widely publicized, unlike elite perfumes. Manufacturers of selective perfumery are engaged only in the production of perfumery products, in contrast to companies that produce luxury perfumery along with cosmetics.
By the way, niche manufacturers, so that their products remain selective, you can not create more than two and a half hundred stores around the world. Due to this limitation on the release selective perfumes are very rarely counterfeited. Due to the use of high cost, the production limit, niche products will never become available for mass consumption.
Despite the fact that exclusive perfumes are made exclusively from natural and high-quality raw materials, to a greater extent such products are designed for perfume "gourmets". Not everyone likes the smells of selective perfumes. But, nevertheless, they are worth “trying on” for yourself, perhaps you will like some of them. Amongmanufacturersselectiveperfumery: Frederic Malle, Amouage, Montale, Parfums de Rosine, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, Penhaligon, Erno Laszlo, Jo Malone, Miller Harris, Serge Lutens, Annick Goutal, Diptyque.
brand women's clothing I Am Studio appeared almost nine years ago and actually formed a middle-up niche in Russia - a fashion for those who have outgrown the mass market, but are not ready to pay for catwalk collections. I Am Studio became the first Russian brand with an independent corner in Tsvetnoy, and at the end of September it opened a mono-brand store in Metropolis. The Village spoke with the founder of the company, designer Dasha Samkovich, about how to organize sales in such a way as to stay in the black, despite the habit of retailers to pay for things later, why going to a shopping center obliges you to give up the concept, and Italian production in practice turns out to be cheaper than Russian.
First collection
My family was in the garment industry, and from the age of 11 I knew that I would become a designer. After graduating from a school with an artistic bias, I tried to get a specialized education wherever there was an opportunity at that time: at a college in Minsk I studied as a fashion designer, and after moving to Moscow, at a correspondence course in the economics of the clothing industry management and at the Zaitsev Laboratory. After the laboratory, I was suddenly invited to Fashion Week in Yekaterinburg, although I didn’t have any brand yet - there was nothing but a desire to try. I am a modest person, and then, at the age of 20, it seemed to me that it was too early to declare my surname at the show and release a collection under it. Besides, I never considered fashion as a tool of self-expression. An artist can express himself through a painting. Rick Owens can do it with clothes, because no one is supposed to wear him. This is some kitsch. But when people express themselves in such a way and also want to be worn, this is incomprehensible to me. In my opinion, the real talent is to make something that will adorn other people, clothes that fit the size, fit well and last a long time. And it's very difficult.
So I came up with the I Am Studio brand. The first collection consisted of knitted intricately tailored T-shirts and pants in the Japanese style in the spirit of JNBY - then it was very fashionable and cheap to manufacture, while all the things of catwalk designers - Akhmadullina, Simachev, Terekhov - were and remain very expensive.
I knew for sure that I did not want to make a luxury brand, and immediately settled on the middle price segment, but the style was formed over the years. Then there was a very clear division of the audience: people went to either Zara or Dolce & Gabbana - no Sandro, no middle-up, and even a mass market like H&M and Uniqlo did not exist in Russia. The brand was formed in parallel with the formation of new consumer habits and new retail.
After the show, orders came from customers, and this moment coincided with the appearance of the first markets, such as Sunday Up Market, Trends Brands. Young guys began to bring some independent Belgian brands to Russia, small showrooms began to appear. A Lyyk store was opened in St. Petersburg, the founders of which later created a large-scale network. Look At Me had a “Look of the Week” section where everyone posted and discussed looks, there were a few photos of people in our clothes, and that’s where the huge demand came from.
Now we have three main collections a year: autumn-winter, spring resort and cruise - summer, coming out in April-May. Spring and summer in Russia are very different, we cannot put a dress for a 30-degree heat next to a coat for March. Circulations in capsule collections and limited models for lookbook and celebrity can be only five to ten units per model, while in regular collections - from a hundred to a thousand. This year we produced and sold 30,588 items. The average check is 14 thousand rubles (this is either one thing or two inexpensive ones). In the autumn season, coats are most bought, in summer - dresses and sundresses. Our hit and visiting card is a transforming coat. Clients also love our suits, especially oversized jackets.
Team and development
I started a business with a classmate from the Zaitsev Laboratory, but after working together for a year, we parted ways, and the process went faster. Another person helped us with sales, but basically I did everything myself for a very long time, up to the fact that I went for lightning, although it was possible to hire a courier. My first advice to anyone who plans to start something: hire people and helpers. You need to unload yourself, because you can dig in very quickly and specifically slow down. Now there are about 50 people in my team, including salespeople in the showroom and shopping center.
We went straight to zero. At the start, I invested 2 thousand dollars in the project. This money was enough to send off the first collection, and five more units per model. The first things were sewn by hand, the fabrics were inexpensive. For example, a dress cost 4,000 rubles, and its cost was 400 rubles for tailoring and 200 rubles for fabric. And if you have sewn five or ten of these products and sold them, you already have some kind of budget.
At first, everything was done at home, after three months a showroom appeared, for which we paid 20 thousand rubles a month. Our business plan was more of an action plan. In general, for a long time I could not begin to treat my business as a business. I was just interested in producing and selling something. It's like with children when they start doing something themselves: they throw toys around just because they like it, they see that they can make noise, litter, and for them this is a kind of creative process. That's what my first years of business were like for me. At the same time, I thought that I Am Studio is developing very clearly and competently.
Purchase of fabrics
At first I bought fabrics in Moscow and Italian stocks, where they are very good quality at an affordable price. But there you can buy up to 80-100 meters per color, and when three years ago our turnover increased and it took already 300 meters, we started ordering fabrics for ourselves in the colors we needed at factories in Europe - in Italy, Portugal, France, Germany ; We buy cotton from Turkey. We rarely buy materials in Moscow, only for capsule collections - velvet, sequins.
But despite the fact that the quality of European fabrics is quite high, over the past two years we have seen a lot of marriage. You may receive a fabric that has not passed the final processing, a sample of the wrong color or quality. Then we turn the machines back to Italy so that the fabric is finished or remade. Sometimes they send a good sample, we bring all the fabric to the factory without looking, and when the finished coats arrive, we see that they are sewn from the wrong fabric. This happened recently in three factories at once. It seems that everyone began to save on raw materials or reduce specialists, and the rest do not have time to control everything properly. We sell defective batches to the market without a label or destroy them.
Search for garment factories
I didn't even have to look for the first production. I bought fabrics in a large warehouse at Dynamo, on one floor of which there is still a clothing production. They sew there sportswear and knitwear. I spoke to their technologist and they took my first order. They had fantastically low prices. We cooperated with them for a very long time, and at the same time I was looking for other factories - something on the Internet, something through an acquaintance.
When starting to work with any factory, we look at samples, order small batches, pay attention to how the production responds to phone calls and letters, how it meets deadlines and keeps its word. Now in Moscow we do not sew anything, there is only an experimental workshop where four tailors, two designers and a cutter work, where we only make samples. We cooperate with about 15 factories in the Moscow region, Kirov, other cities of Russia and Belarus. Each specializes in something specific: knitwear is produced somewhere, someone sews coat fabrics, someone is light.
One of the problems of Russian factories is knitwear. When we ordered yarn, we found out that not a single factory in Moscow could knit what we wanted. This requires special shampoos, special post-processing, equipment setup. Russians can buy high-quality German machine tools - now, in principle, it is impossible to buy bad sewing or knitting equipment. But for it to work, we need good specialists-dessinators - designers of knitting clothes. We do not have a culture of producing beautiful clothes - no matter how hard you try to explain and show what you want to get as a result, they will not connect you like that.
This year, for the first time, we ordered some of the things in Italy - that's where everyone understands from the first time. At the same time, the cost of yarn and work is the same as here. Italian production is more expensive solely because of customs clearance. Ordering there is even easier and cheaper, because you don’t have to redo anything, you can do without tears and nerves. While in Russia something will be produced for you, made in Italy can already be sold.
Sales
I don't really understand when brands open many showrooms - we only have one, and we invest in its development. In addition, the showroom is a showroom, but at some point you need to enter a more mature market. We opened our corner in Tsvetnoy and a store in Metropolis, and things are going surprisingly well there. People immediately buy our things, although for shopping center they are expensive - suits for 15 thousand, dresses for 14 thousand, coats for 25 thousand rubles.
The shopping center has a good flow, but it has its own specifics and collections have to be adapted for it. And although we simplify them from season to season, our clothes still turn out to be quite unusual for a shopping center. Metropolis needs more office wear, and Tsvetnoy, surprisingly, also needs pencil skirts and shirts, where the audience is not as creative as in the showroom.
Sales volume online and offline depends on the season. During the sales period, people buy more on the site: people have time to try something on, they know their size and already place an order on the sale. But in general, the ratio of online and offline sales is about 50 to 50. At the same time, there are more checks in the showroom: people can try on a lot of things and buy half a wardrobe at once, and online it’s a maximum of two or three things in the basket.
Our collections are also bought by 50 multi-brand stores, but they give only 10% of the turnover. In the regions, retailers buy our collections, and Podium Market, Bosco and Aizel take them for sale. And although we were among those suing Podium after the delays in payments, such a situation would never seriously hit us. I never rely on any one store, realizing that what is taken for sale is not necessarily sold. We slowly developed our retail, our online store, our Instagram, so as not to become completely dependent on the retailer. Thanks to the measured pace of development, we have always been in the black and almost never invested our entire budget in the collection.
The future of fashion and its fatigue
Today people are already fed up with low-quality clothes and fleeting trends, in the future people will buy less, and this is not even related to the economy. It's just that closets are full, fast fashion items roll down in two days of wear, so the so-called slow fashion will begin to prevail. Buyers will choose original high-quality clothes with an original cut that do not go out of fashion, pick up a thing for the wardrobe, choose not emotionally, but rationally.
Other than that, runway trends won't be so fleeting. Neither buyers nor designers can keep up with all this. As a designer, I can say that it is very exhausting: trying to predict what will be in trend. And even if you guess the future trend, you start sewing a collection a year before it goes on sale, and the trend becomes relevant in six months, so you are still late. Designers have a hard time in this race.
We have an advantage in competition with Russian stamps because our brand came before Instagram and many clients came before it. I know that many young brands have lost momentum after Instagram changed the algorithm of work, because the entire flow of customers was mainly from there. And we have always developed everything: Yandex.Direct, Facebook, and partner stories.
Our market is still empty, and it seems to me that my competitors and I must keep pace, because together we are creating the concept of a “Russian brand”. Take, for example, Italy: even a little bit of an Italian brand in a small factory is already an Italian brand. So I try to keep friendly relations with other designers.
The idea that success in the West will bring you success in Russia is connected with our mentality. As if everything foreign is cool, and ours is uncool. True, in the West a few years ago there was a boom in Russian designers, he came to us, but now he has cooled down. Fashion as a whole is tired of itself, minimalism and elegance are in use, so there will be no more upstarts. And it will be quite difficult to advance in the West. Of course, there are designers who don't need mega-sales, they need fame, to be bought in Japan and America, and to be published in Vogue. I originally had a different concept, I was interested in creating fashion for people.
